JFP in PA

You have a communications failure over the CAN Bus. This is going to require checking the bus it self as well as testing the individual controllers for the codes.

You can also get it for $33.64 with free shipping on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280142308-Purge-Valve/dp/B001COAS8M)

Our normal service intervals for the Tiptronic are 40-60K, regardless of total mileage.

You may or may not hear a "click" as it is often faint.

Check fuse E6, and then read this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/87-94boxster-fuel-tank-hose-modificationpdf/

The hydraulic system in these cars can easily generate one to two thousand PSIG of fluid pressure; using that to pop out a piston can be anything from dangerous to having brake fluid everywhere when it comes out. Gazing is the transfer of brake pad material (usually the resin that bonds the pads together ) to the rotor surface and then often back onto the pads themselves. Glazing can often be removed by lightly sanding the pads and buffing the rotors: If the rotors are very glazed, a light cut might be in order if they have enough meat left. Brake system pressure is measured by attaching gauges to either the calipers or the brake lines: An additional thought would be to check your power brake booster as well, they tend to collect water and suffer small vacuum leaks, which would also significantly reduce perceived braking efforts.

JFP, to get a stuck piston out couldn't you just restrain the other three pistons with clamps and step on the brake pedal? Containing the caliper in a bucket would catch any brake fluid. Now that we happen to be on brakes, those in my C4S are just not stopping well. I changed the brake fluid and bled the calipers from both sides. If they got any better at all it was probably psychological. The front rotors and pads have only 21k miles on them, the rears are the originals. All parts are OEM Porsche. Got any ideas? Anyone? To me, that approach is kind of "the nuclear option". Because of the pressure the brake hydraulic system operates at, you could easily create a projectile as well as one Hell of a mess when and if it pops out. I would prefer pressurizing it with air so that I could control both the blow out and potential mess. I'd check your front rotors for wear thickness and look at the pads and rotors to see if they are glazed on the surface. You could also have a weakening master cylinder that is producing low pressure, which will significantly reduce braking effort.

On your car, I believe the line from the reservoir is a push on at the reservoir end with a small spring clamp. The other ends just push on and snap in place.

The Uview system will extract all the air out of the system as long as the adaptor is not touching liquid. You should definitely be pulling 24-26 inches of vacuum on the car.

I has to be something driven by the belt, so an idler or a pump (water, power steering, etc.). You could try isolating it while the car idles, or pull the belt and try turning each component by hand to see if something makes noise.

The line is not expensive, less than $30 at retail, and I think it comes with the clip. Sometimes lines that have been in place for a long time don't give it up easily and need to be replaced.

Which lines are your referring to, the red arrow presses in, the yellow arrow pulls out: Parts are OEM, although someone like Pelican may carry them.

Sure, first take a moment and scan all the way around the bell housing one time to make sure nothing is caught between the trans and the engine (you would be surprised how often it is that simple). Make sure that when you are trying to move the trans into position that the face of the bell housing and engine case are parallel to each other. We often see first timers with the trans tilted at an angle which will never work. One trick that really helps with this is to go to Lowes and get some spare bolts that are way longer than the real ones for the bell housing and cut the heads off them and hand thread them into two of the outer bell housing bolt holes. They will act like guide pins to help hold the trans in the correct alignment while moving it home. Be sure the trans is going over the guide pins on the back of the engine case (bolt holes at 9 and 1 o'clock if you are looking at the rear of the engine), these are a common "1/2 inch hold up" item. Make sure the clutch fork is properly seated and the slave is engaging it correctly (another favorite). If the slave hydraulic line is attached, open the bleeder and put a drain line on it so that you are not trying to overcome the clutch hydraulic system. You can always re-bleed the system when it is back together. If everything is clear, put the trans in gear and try rotating the axle flange back and forth while pushing the trans in ( looking for clutch spline misalignment here). Quite often, we see people juggle and juggle with the trans, seemingly for hours until it suddenly lines up and bingo, it is in place. There is only one correct alignment, and an infinite number or misalignments, so don't get frustrated or try to force it home; when everything is lined up, it will slide right in.

Should be.

Yes, but the news is not what you want to hear. If something has dropped into the gearbox/diff, you need to get it out before it gets in-between moving parts and does significant damage. This probably is going to require pulling the gear box......

If the dealer correctly pressure tested the entire system, including the tank and cap, and found no leaks, it is not the neck of the tank. I am beginning to wonder if you have a different problem that is over pressuring the system, causing the cap to have to vent. I have seen this happen on cars with slight cracks in the cylinder heads.

First of all, a PPI has to be independent of the seller, it is your last chance to catch anything before spending your money. A PPI by the selling dealer is never a good idea. Secondly, it is not unknown for a seller to take some remedial action on PPI "deduct" items. If the problems are correctly fixed, it is a good thing. But it is also possible to hide issues like oil leaks by cleaning the engine and using heavier weigh oils to slow the leak down, or short filling the sump to help hide it. The leak would appear fixed, but is really not. When looking for someone to do a PPI on your behalf, check sources like your local PCA chapter for resources in your area.

Please do not start a second thread when you already have one open on the exact same subject (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47131-00-boxster-27-liter-need-help-p1341-codes/), it is against the forum guidelines you agreed to when you joined RennTech. As noted elsewhere, as a matter of policy, we do not change any parts that have not been demonstrated to be defective. That is what diagnostic procedures are for. As noted earlier, the actuators and solenoids can be individually tested to verify function, and as they are like a light bulb and either work or they don't, I would not change them without reason. As for replacing proven defective parts with used units; again, we would not go there as there are just too many downsides. Unless the cams already in the engine show abnormal wear, which would be an extreme rarity, I would not change them. As for regrinds, that would need to be done by someone that really knows the M96 engine profile, as a lot of engineering has already gone into the cams already in the car, and the OEM cam profile is pretty much maxed out for the engine without going through the cylinder heads, etc.. I personally can only think of a couple people I would trust for that, and they would probably tell you the same thing. When it comes to going through one of these engines to get more power out it, you are going to be looking at spending between $15-20K, and that money must be spent very wisely (read spent on things that matter rather than the normal "hot rod" stuff).

As a matter of policy, we do not change any parts that have not been demonstrated to be defective. That is what diagnostic procedure's are for. As noted earlier, the actuators and solenoids can be individually tested to verify function, and as they are like a light bulb and either work or they don't, I would not change them without reason. As for replacing proven defective parts with used units; again, we would not go there as there are just too many downsides. Unless the cams already in the engine show abnormal wear, which would be an extreme rarity, I would not change them. As for regrinds, that would need to be done by someone that really knows the M96 engine profile, as a lot of engineering has already gone into the cams already in the car, and the OEM cam profile is pretty much maxed out for the engine without going through the cylinder heads, etc.. I personally can only think of a couple people I would trust for that, and they would probably tell you the same thing. When it comes to going through one of these engines to get more power out it, you are going to be looking at spending between $15-20K, and that money must be spent very wisely (read spent on things that matter rather than the normal "hot rod" stuff).

Refrigerant (R134A): 900 grams Compressor Oil: 195+/-15 cc

That is what I was concerned about. Porsche is pretty tough about their diagnostic systems.

Coding a module and coding the DME and alarm systems are two different things. It may work, but I am not aware of it doing so.

Be sure to also get the correct adaptors for both the tank and the cap, which are sold separately.

As the KTS is a pretty price unit (some of the Chinese clones are selling for $2,300), I'm sure there is some mechanism to get them fixed, probably though Bosch. Only caveat would be your unit's provenance, there are more than a few of these units running around with a questionable history......

Any DME swap is going to require some recoding. While I have very little direct experience with the Launch product line, I seriously doubt it will be able to recode your car and get everything to connect. You need a PIWIS.