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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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I don't know anything about that brand, but the easiest way to change out the insert is with a bearing press. You could probably do it with a hammer and socket, but I would go with a press. Update: The Lemfoerder company is an OEM parts supplier to several German car brands,
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Loren is correct, you are looking for ATE 200, which is the "gold". Amazon also carries it: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_4?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ate+brake+fluid&sprefix=ate+%2Caps%2C135&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aate+brake+fluid
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If you are referring to the electric fans, yes, you can switch them on with the Durametric software.
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I would not be overly concerned. Because of the horizontally opposed design of these engines, they occasionally do this.
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Butch did you have the "HEAT" issue ? As I said for the first 5 or 6 miles (or about 10 minutes running time) everything was fine ,voltage was "about" 13.4 to 13.7 volts or so, then AFTER about 5 or 6 miles, or 10 mins, when the motor heats up it started dropping, how could this affect that , the wiring harness that is, was yours a heat issue, or that way from initial start up ? I'm not an electronics engineer, but it's a connection, not an electronic device ? Perhaps I'm wrong , could heat increase the resistance on a connection like that ? Anyone know about that ? Thanks Dave Corrosion build up causes resistance to rise in the cables, add heat, it goes even higher. This is a common Porsche 996 issue, with its own TSB and updated cables to help prevent the problems.
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Blue Loctite would be fine, and I would not worry about the thread locker acting as a lubricant during assembly.
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Correct.
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Strange, we still get them with the coating, but then we buy them in bulk. In any case, the rule of thumb is simple: Anything that rotates, vibrates, is time consuming to get at, or can come flying out if the bolts come loose will benefit from Loctite. As I noted earlier, we Loctite flywheel and pressure plate bolts on every make of car, you really do not want these to come loose. The axle flange bolts are an excellent example, we find loose ones all the time. Loctite is cheap, repairing a car that has had a pressure plate or flywheel come loose is not.
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New flywheel and pressure plate bolts should come with thread locker on them; if they don't, I would not hesitate to use Loctite. Trans case bolts do not need thread locker, but the CV bolts definitely need it.
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We have never needed to use bearing compound.
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There are a lot of strange branded tires coming out of the orient these days. Nexen, for example, is a Korean tire.
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Hard to tell from your picture, but it is not unusual to find bits of hardened sealant and from the chain wear pads in the sump.
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Pull the seals off the bearing and see if there is any grease still in it. You should not need any retaining compounds on the new bearing as it should be an interference fit. I would however look that the inside of the shaft to see if it has similar marks.
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We always replace the RMS once you get that far in, the newer PTFE design is much better than the old style seals. I would also do the AOS.
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The fans can be tested using a Porsche diagnostic tool to see if they are running correctly or not. I would start there.
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Sorry, you are correct, I meant to say "cam plugs facing away from the flywheel". It is not uncommon to have to rotate the engine more than one cycle to get the cams to line up when the engine is at TDC.
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You need to hand rotate the engine to TDC (clockwise rotation only), at which point the crank locking pin will just slide into the engine's crank pulley and the boss on the engine case. This locks the crank from moving. Then remove the cam plugs on the cylinder head facing away from the flywheel and insert and bolt down the cam locking tool. At this point, nothing can move and you are safe to pull the tensioners out per the LN instructions and move foward with the IMS retrofit. You can use an impact to remove both the pressure plate and flywheel bolts as they will not be reused. Do not use an impact on the IMS flange bolts. Do not use the impact to reinstall any of the bolts, use a torque wrench.
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Absolutely it is necessary. Taking short cuts on an IMS retrofit is a recipe for disaster; most of the ones we see that have gone bad did so because those doing the swap did not follow the LN proceedures to the letter.
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Tips that I learned during a Boxster project
JFP in PA replied to mckinlay's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I'm not sure sure about that RMS tool (FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0)) as it looks like the old style tool which would install the newer PTFE seal at the wrong service depth. What was the measurement from the crank face to the seal when installed? -
Vacumn lines
JFP in PA replied to mbagge01's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Depends upon the quality of the silicone hoses. A lot of silicone hose softens dramatically as it warms, which is going to be the case in an engine compartment. If you can get hose that is designed for the heat, you should be fine. -
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/310-v8-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change/
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No, but a lack of commuinications between the pill in the key and the alarm module would do it.
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If you have already replaced the ignition switch, I'd check the car's main grounds (starter/alternator circuits) for excessive voltage drop (sign of corrosion/bad connections). You should be able to find a DIY using a simple multimeter.
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Hard start after refuelling
JFP in PA replied to machster's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
You have an air leak somewhere, the codes indicate that both banks are running so lean that the DME can no longer compensate. Based upon the sound you describe, I'd start by looking at the EVAP system which is adjacent to the fuel filler in the passenger side front wheel well. Do a search, there have been postings with photos about this system and its potential leak points. -
You will probably need to calibrate the fuel level system after changing the sending unit, which will require either the Durametric software or a PIWIS.
