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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Unfortunately, several diagnostic companies have made claims that their tools can do things on Porsche's that they clearly cannot, and quite often calls the companies making the claims result in the tool owner being told that a specific function is only for certain model years, or that it will be "added in a future upgrade" that ultimately never happens. Porsche has always used a proprietary diagnostic logic system that has been very hard to crack or duplicate. Durametric has probably come the closest with perhaps 80-85% functionality, but even they cannot do the PDK, and say as much on the subject.
  2. Unfortunately, to my knowledge, there has never been a parts break out for the unit under the dash as Porsche only supplied it as a complete unit. Sorry.
  3. Welcome to RennTech If the iCarsoft unit can actually do anything with the PDK, this is the first I have heard of it. Several diagnostic companies have claimed to be able to work on the PDK, but to my knowledge, the only system that actually can without creating problems is the factory PIWIS system.
  4. The multifunction switch on the trans is not serviceable, and is a common problem point on these cars. When it starts acting up, you can it and install a new one; it cannot be serviced in any way. Getting it out is an exercise in dexterity and tool selection, most simple move what is in the way and then get at it. As for how much it costs, the multifunction switch is a fraction of the price of a Tip control module, the sell for nearly $2,000 here.
  5. Welcome to RennTech I think you may be looking at the wrong component, the PST II says the multifunction switch, which is on the side of the trans under the car:
  6. Welcome to RennTech The 2011 car would carry the SDI version DME. Failures of these units are pretty rare unless they have been tampered with (to Loren's point), which is a good thing considering the cost of replacing one. At this juncture, I would get all current and pending codes as a starting point; even the DME has a code for when it fails, so those codes are important.
  7. If it were mine, I would flatbed it if I were in your situation. Without more detailed diagnostics, there is no way to know what is likely to happen or determine probabilities of failures. In the end, it is your car and your money, and your decision.
  8. P1341 indicates that the cam angle on bank 1 is either out of range or that it cannot read it (plausibility). You either have a cam sensor on the way out, the actuator solenoid is problematic (Stuck due to debris in the oiling system), or the Vario Cam unit itself is bad. I would test the sensor and consider replacing the solenoid if the sensor is good.
  9. Move the lines, once they are loose, you should be able to get in there and torque it properly.
  10. I would have the battery tested first by a competent shop or parts store. Corrosion at a connector could be an issue, but that would not clear itself, plus you would have to test each one unless one physically looks bad.
  11. Welcome to RennTech If you have opened the pressurized lines on the AC system and vented it, you first need to evacuate it with a special vacuum pump, both to dry out the system and test it for leaks, then it can be recharged along with the correct amount and type of PAG oil.
  12. Welcome to RennTech You can remove the assembly take it apart and let it dry out.
  13. I seriously doubt this problem is going to just go away. You need to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool and see what codes are present in the chassis section.
  14. Amazon, we have been getting LED bulbs from them for years.
  15. When you spend a portion of your life trying to install parts you cannot find into an access point you cannot reach on a car that requires a special tool you don't have, you tend to develop a strong sense of humor 😉
  16. Take the driver's seat out, that will give you a lot more working room to get the dash apart and the upper section out of the car. As for why, a long time ago I learned to accept that fecal matter occurs.
  17. The circled part in your photo above is considered part of the "upper shaft" assembly, which includes the splined shaft that connects to the "lower assembly". Porsche does make the circled u joint available as part number (996-347-023-02) for about $400 "lower shaft assembly" which includes everything down to the u joint that connects to the rack: Installation is flat out a *****, because your need to separate the two segments of the lower shaft assembly, attach the splined shaft and upper u joint to the assembly under the dash, reinstall that, then install the other half from underneath the car onto the splined shaft. And for the life of me, I cannot think of why removing the gas tank could lead to this.
  18. That unit is available from Porsche only as an assembly, for about $1,900 (996-347-007-10, part #1 in the diagram above). To my knowledge, Porsche never made any components of the upper assembly available as parts, just the entire unit. You may be able to find one out of low milage wreck for less. And getting out is a whole lot of fun, but I think you are getting used to that by now 😵
  19. I wouldn't be afraid to do the retrofit, I would just suggest using components that have a huge installed base and are known performers. Anyone's warranty on car parts of any kind only provides you with a replacement of the part, not collateral damage resulting from the first part's failure. And like just about everything else in life, in IMS retrofits you "get what you pay for", so don't try to cheap out, you definitely will not like what happens. 😵
  20. The lower shaft section for a 4WD 996 is 996-347-023-02, retails for around $412 and includes both joints
  21. Here is a photo of the entire column out of the car: The lower section comes out the bottom of the car, the upper section pulls out from inside the car after about half the dash is removed. There are two "universal" joints on the lower section, one right at the rack end, and a second one under the boot. The lower joint uses a pinch bolt to connect to the rack, but working from memory, the upper may be held in by roll pins, but I am not sure on that point. I haven't had one of these apart in a long time. The lower joint is the one that wears the most due to the angle it operates on, and because it is exposed to the elements more than the upper unit.
  22. Welcome to RennTech 92A is a Cayenne model designation WDS is wiring diagram system C32 is a connection pin designation on the BCM BCM is body control module PIWIS/PIWIS 2 are Porsche factory diagnostic's computer systems "Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System" My major concern in this project is that the 1999 model year Boxster's HomeLink was not available as a factory option as none of these model year Boxster's had CAN Bus technology in them, which is how the HomeLink system communicates, and two different vehicle model designations you list both did have it. If that is factual, this system cannot work in your car. The Porsche part #997.618.227.01 is for a 2004 vehicle, which would have CAN Bus. If it were being installed in a vehicle that did have CAN Bus, the PIWIS system would be needed to code the system to make it work properly. And before you ask, a PIWIS system costs $20,000 for the first year's lease. For more information on how the correct Boxster model HomeLink system was added to a later model Boxster that has CAN Bus technology, go here: Good luck.
  23. You need to take that ad with a grain of salt. First of all, the claims that a roller bearing is better are dubious at best. Back when Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations) and Charles Navarro (LN Engineering) were developing the first retrofit system, they tested (to destruction) a variety of bearing designs in actual engines, including the roller style, which showed no advantages over a ceramic hybrid ball bearing. Second, the warranty for the roller bearing only covers giving you a replacement roller bearing if the first one fails; but at that point your entire engine is junk, so you will have a nice, shiny new paperweight for your desk, not a replacement engine. If you really want to do this right, and only once, you need to take a hard look at the LN IMS Solution. Yes, it is more expensive, but it is the only proven retrofit that will outlive your engine, and can even be reused in another engine, something that no roller or ball bearing retrofit can do. I personally have owned two IMS Solution retrofits and have never regretted using them over other options; they simply work, and to my knowledge none have ever failed.
  24. Hate to be the bearer of more grief, but the steering shaft comes out though the bottom of the car, after you have moved the steering rack you just put back in out of the way. And I have no idea if that lower joint is sold as a part, but the entire assembly is in the neighborhood of $2K 😵
  25. Can't see the attached photos.🤥 OK, they have now appeared!
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