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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You can also use the lighter socket and still lock the car and arm the alarm. If you feel along the bottom of the driver's door (almost below the review mirror), you will find a recess that allows the cable to be run past the door seals, allowing full closure of the door.
  2. JFP in PA
    Porsche manuals will tell you to use their pin out box, which is both ridiculously expensive as well as near impossible to find. You will need a multi-meter and a set of wiring diagrams to trace what you need to look at. If you can borrow a 986 Bentley manual, there are a full set in the rear of the book. You should not have to remove the DME to do the testing, just unplug it. There are step by step testing instructions for the P1602 code in the OEM OBD II diagnostic manual, which is another impossible to find book. When I get a chance later today, I will try to summarize them for you (shop is a little jammed up at the moment).
  3. JFP in PA
    If the DME code is real, it should return after being cleared. Disconnecting the battery could trigger this code, but usually does not. I would clear both codes and see if either returns; if they do, you have some DME wiring diagnostics to do. If the DME loses that connection, it also loses all of its adaptive data, like the idle control, every time the power goes off. The exact time it takes the system to relearn often varies, but it should have completed by 100 miles. You can trick the car into relearning by inserting the key and moving it to the on position without starting the car. Usually, you will hear a series of clicks, which is the ICV going through its routine. Leave the key in the on position for about 30-60 seconds, then turn it off and remove the key. Wait a moment, then insert the key and start the car, if everything else is OK, the car should idle.
  4. JFP in PA
    P0506: IAC valve is sticking, air cleaner is blocked. P1602: DME fault, no power at terminal 30, wiring interrupted, connector loose or disconnected. When this power is lost, even temporarily, adaptation values are lost.
  5. JFP in PA
    I no longer use 5, having switched to 6 a long time ago, but if you look under "engine module" you will find "Ready Status".
  6. JFP in PA
    There should be an I/M Readiness test in a real Durametric 5 (not so sure about knock off clone versions), but I would highly recommend updating your system as the version 6 offers a lot of additional features and bug fixes.
  7. JFP in PA
    Do you remember which cylinders the really bad looking plugs came out of? Like I said, we use them all the time in the shop with no real issues.
  8. JFP in PA
    Interesting particularly as we use Denso Iridium's all the time with no issues, particular in turbo cars, which tend to be hard on plugs. From your photo, I only see two (center on left set, right plug on right set) that appear to have center electrode issues. Anything unusual about the car, like an aftermarket re-flash?
  9. JFP in PA
    On a 2005 and later Boxster, the Durametric system should also be able to see the TPMS sensors.
  10. JFP in PA
    Both the AOS can easily be a source of a hard to trace vacuum leak, as can the adjacent oil tube that often accidentally gets cracked when the AOS is serviced. As the body shop had been working on the same side as your misfires: I would also check the coil pack wiring connections and harness on that side as well.
  11. JFP in PA
    I am not surprised changing the O2 sensor did not help. Rather than aimlessly changing out more expensive parts, hoping one of them is "the one", you need to start doing basic diagnostics. Just before this started, do you do anything (clean the engine compartment, etc.) getting the car ready to sell? If so, backtrack you steps looking for problems. Start looking at the coil pack connectors and wiring harness plugs to make sure everything is fully seated. Look over the entire engine bay for a loose or disconnected vacuum hose or clamp on the flexible intake connectors. Somewhere, something has changed, and without a proper diagnostic scan tool, you are going to have to go on a fishing expedition.
  12. JFP in PA
    You could be on to it, as the car is both a VarioCam+ and variable valve timing design, one (or both) of those systems may not be getting sufficient oil flow. The oil passages in the both systems are very small, so it could be some left over debris has gotten into one and is the problem.
  13. JFP in PA
    Frame alignment is normally done on a special system that uses laser measuring systems off of various known reference points to determine how straight the vehicle is, and what needs to be corrected. Any competent body shop should have one of these.
  14. JFP in PA
    First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: If you actually blew a head gasket, yours if the first one I personally have ever heard of doing that. These engines use multi layer steel head gaskets that are actually stronger than either the head or the engine case, and they never fail. Usually, if one of these engines demonstrates conditions normally associated with head gasket issues, it is a cracked cylinder head. I would start by confirming that the cam position sensor on bank two is correctly connected, and that the cam position sensor is actually functioning. If you have access to a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric, Autologic), you should be able to read the real time cam position values as well as deviation values at idle. If bank 2 has no values, the cam position sensor has a problem.
  15. JFP in PA
    Depends upon where the oil is coming from. The side axel seals can be changed in the car, but requires some special tooling. If the case is leaking where it bolts together, it is easier to pull the diff and do that on the bench. Neither is a particularly easy DIY.
  16. JFP in PA
    The OEM thermostat starts to open around 187F, and is not fully open until around 197-200F (which is why most of these cars actually run well over 200F most of the time), so yours sounds more like the OEM unit.
  17. JFP in PA
    I would have to say "maybe". Unfortunately, the dash temperature display in these cars in well known for being both non linear as well as inaccurate, which makes it little more than an idiot light that moves, so you cannot always put a lot of faith in what it displays. We have seen many cars sitting right on the "hash mark" for 180 that were running more like 205 to 210F, while others were even higher or in some cases lower than the indicated temperature. We have also seen cars that were right on the money on the hash mark, but way off either above or below it. The only way to know for sure were a given car is at a given display level is to collect real-time data from a quality scan tool like the Durametric package, or put aftermarket gauges in the car.
  18. JFP in PA
    With the Tip trans you have, there is no drain plug, requiring that you syphon out the old oil through the fill plug opening. 996 rear diff oil change.pdf
  19. JFP in PA
    I sounds like you are getting a "handover" error. There are times when the information or data carried by the CAN (Computer Area Network) communication lines may get corrupted. To repair this there is a Porsche procedure known as a “Vehicle Handover” because there is a good chance that this will repair your electrical/computer related problem(s). This process utilizing the Porsche PIWIS tester basically reinitializes all the computer parameters and controller settings back to what the car had when it left the factory new. It is not unlike rebooting your computer after a crash. To my knowledge, only a PIWIS or Autologic system can do this reset.
  20. JFP in PA
    Absolutely not a problem. 175-180F is fine for these engines, we have many customers running the same combination at much lower ambient temps and without any issues over prolonged useage. And just as a thought, if your reference to "the secret menu" refers to using the climate control to read the coolant temps, just be aware that method can often generate erroneous numbers. If you want to see confirmable data, scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric system.
  21. JFP in PA
    There are really only a few options: PIWIS, lease only from Porsche, currently around $18,000 (US) for the first year; PST II, outdated (replaced by PIWIS) so it is limited and showing its age, occasionally pop up on the internet for a few thousand $ (US); Durametric, best aftermarket Porsche specific system for the DIY market, runs on laptop computer and sells for about $300 (US) with unlimited future updates; Autologic, very good aftermarket system, but sells for $12-15K (US) and you have to buy future updates.
  22. JFP in PA
    Loren's point is that the codes you have gotten are cylinder misfire codes, not sensor codes; if any of the O2 sensors were acting up, you would get specific codes for each sensor. The entire point is that you are using a scan tool that you your self describe as "cheap", and obviously not Porsche specific, exactly what many before you have done and gotten misleading code data which then led them down blind diagnostic alleys. Before spending any hard cash, you would be well advised to get the car rescanned with a Porsche scan tool.
  23. JFP in PA
    Because of your low mileage, I would first bleed and evaluate the slave cylinder. How? Thread, topic, video you recommend? Thx. There is an extensive thread on the subject: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/7064-brakeclutch-fluid-change-and-bleeding-instructions/page-1?hl=+bleeding +clutch +slave Normally, most people bleed the clutch slave as part of the brake hydraulic system flush, which should be done at least every two years, sooner if the car is tracked. Both the clutch and brakes share a common hydraulic reservoir in these cars, so it is a great time to flush and bleed both systems if yours has not been done in a while, or if you do not know when it was done last. Not flushing these systems regularly can allow air to build up in the system as moisture collects in the fluid. IF that moisture is not removed, it can actually boil, leading to spongy brake and clutch pedals. The moisture is also absolute corrosive Hell on some very expensive component's in the systems.
  24. JFP in PA
    Because of your low mileage, I would first bleed and evaluate the slave cylinder.
  25. JFP in PA
    Just got it confirmed by a Porsche Master Mechanic - same oil. Good to know, thanks.
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