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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Interesting particularly as we use Denso Iridium's all the time with no issues, particular in turbo cars, which tend to be hard on plugs. From your photo, I only see two (center on left set, right plug on right set) that appear to have center electrode issues. Anything unusual about the car, like an aftermarket re-flash?
  2. On a 2005 and later Boxster, the Durametric system should also be able to see the TPMS sensors.
  3. Both the AOS can easily be a source of a hard to trace vacuum leak, as can the adjacent oil tube that often accidentally gets cracked when the AOS is serviced. As the body shop had been working on the same side as your misfires: I would also check the coil pack wiring connections and harness on that side as well.
  4. I am not surprised changing the O2 sensor did not help. Rather than aimlessly changing out more expensive parts, hoping one of them is "the one", you need to start doing basic diagnostics. Just before this started, do you do anything (clean the engine compartment, etc.) getting the car ready to sell? If so, backtrack you steps looking for problems. Start looking at the coil pack connectors and wiring harness plugs to make sure everything is fully seated. Look over the entire engine bay for a loose or disconnected vacuum hose or clamp on the flexible intake connectors. Somewhere, something has changed, and without a proper diagnostic scan tool, you are going to have to go on a fishing expedition.
  5. You could be on to it, as the car is both a VarioCam+ and variable valve timing design, one (or both) of those systems may not be getting sufficient oil flow. The oil passages in the both systems are very small, so it could be some left over debris has gotten into one and is the problem.
  6. Frame alignment is normally done on a special system that uses laser measuring systems off of various known reference points to determine how straight the vehicle is, and what needs to be corrected. Any competent body shop should have one of these.
  7. First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: If you actually blew a head gasket, yours if the first one I personally have ever heard of doing that. These engines use multi layer steel head gaskets that are actually stronger than either the head or the engine case, and they never fail. Usually, if one of these engines demonstrates conditions normally associated with head gasket issues, it is a cracked cylinder head. I would start by confirming that the cam position sensor on bank two is correctly connected, and that the cam position sensor is actually functioning. If you have access to a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric, Autologic), you should be able to read the real time cam position values as well as deviation values at idle. If bank 2 has no values, the cam position sensor has a problem.
  8. Depends upon where the oil is coming from. The side axel seals can be changed in the car, but requires some special tooling. If the case is leaking where it bolts together, it is easier to pull the diff and do that on the bench. Neither is a particularly easy DIY.
  9. The OEM thermostat starts to open around 187F, and is not fully open until around 197-200F (which is why most of these cars actually run well over 200F most of the time), so yours sounds more like the OEM unit.
  10. I would have to say "maybe". Unfortunately, the dash temperature display in these cars in well known for being both non linear as well as inaccurate, which makes it little more than an idiot light that moves, so you cannot always put a lot of faith in what it displays. We have seen many cars sitting right on the "hash mark" for 180 that were running more like 205 to 210F, while others were even higher or in some cases lower than the indicated temperature. We have also seen cars that were right on the money on the hash mark, but way off either above or below it. The only way to know for sure were a given car is at a given display level is to collect real-time data from a quality scan tool like the Durametric package, or put aftermarket gauges in the car.
  11. With the Tip trans you have, there is no drain plug, requiring that you syphon out the old oil through the fill plug opening. 996 rear diff oil change.pdf
  12. I sounds like you are getting a "handover" error. There are times when the information or data carried by the CAN (Computer Area Network) communication lines may get corrupted. To repair this there is a Porsche procedure known as a “Vehicle Handover” because there is a good chance that this will repair your electrical/computer related problem(s). This process utilizing the Porsche PIWIS tester basically reinitializes all the computer parameters and controller settings back to what the car had when it left the factory new. It is not unlike rebooting your computer after a crash. To my knowledge, only a PIWIS or Autologic system can do this reset.
  13. Absolutely not a problem. 175-180F is fine for these engines, we have many customers running the same combination at much lower ambient temps and without any issues over prolonged useage. And just as a thought, if your reference to "the secret menu" refers to using the climate control to read the coolant temps, just be aware that method can often generate erroneous numbers. If you want to see confirmable data, scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric system.
  14. There are really only a few options: PIWIS, lease only from Porsche, currently around $18,000 (US) for the first year; PST II, outdated (replaced by PIWIS) so it is limited and showing its age, occasionally pop up on the internet for a few thousand $ (US); Durametric, best aftermarket Porsche specific system for the DIY market, runs on laptop computer and sells for about $300 (US) with unlimited future updates; Autologic, very good aftermarket system, but sells for $12-15K (US) and you have to buy future updates.
  15. Loren's point is that the codes you have gotten are cylinder misfire codes, not sensor codes; if any of the O2 sensors were acting up, you would get specific codes for each sensor. The entire point is that you are using a scan tool that you your self describe as "cheap", and obviously not Porsche specific, exactly what many before you have done and gotten misleading code data which then led them down blind diagnostic alleys. Before spending any hard cash, you would be well advised to get the car rescanned with a Porsche scan tool.
  16. Because of your low mileage, I would first bleed and evaluate the slave cylinder. How? Thread, topic, video you recommend? Thx. There is an extensive thread on the subject: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/7064-brakeclutch-fluid-change-and-bleeding-instructions/page-1?hl=+bleeding +clutch +slave Normally, most people bleed the clutch slave as part of the brake hydraulic system flush, which should be done at least every two years, sooner if the car is tracked. Both the clutch and brakes share a common hydraulic reservoir in these cars, so it is a great time to flush and bleed both systems if yours has not been done in a while, or if you do not know when it was done last. Not flushing these systems regularly can allow air to build up in the system as moisture collects in the fluid. IF that moisture is not removed, it can actually boil, leading to spongy brake and clutch pedals. The moisture is also absolute corrosive Hell on some very expensive component's in the systems.
  17. Because of your low mileage, I would first bleed and evaluate the slave cylinder.
  18. Just got it confirmed by a Porsche Master Mechanic - same oil. Good to know, thanks.
  19. Just got it confirmed by a Porsche Master Mechanic - same oil. Good to know.
  20. You need to test the circuit for both continuity and correct voltage, but do so with care. Porsche would do it by connecting a hyper expensive "pin out" box to the harness, you are going have to do it using a multimeter across the harness section.
  21. Again, you need to be careful in doing this type of test as even a static discharge from your body can be enough to trigger one of these system. As for your diagnostic tool, while it appears to be a good one, Porsche uses some unique diagnostic systems in their cars which can easily fool scanners that are not Porsche specific (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric). This is a common problem that has tripped up more than one DIY repair.
  22. If it is not the sensor, then as Loren pointed out above, there has to be a fault on the sensor circuit leading back to the control unit. You need to start checking that circuit for correct voltage and continuity (shorts). You also need to do this carefully as this testing could easily trigger the air bag. Disconnect the battery for several min. before disconnecting the sensor and airbag in question, then start testing the harness.
  23. To correctly remove air from the system, you need the use of a vacuum filling tool. While it may be entrapment, it could also be a thermostat issue.
  24. Before ordering any parts, you need to get the vehicle up and verify where the leak(s) are first. There are several potential points where it could be leaking.
  25. Reason I ask is the 1128 and 1130 are commonly occurring code pair caused by an air leak (overly lean mixture condition).
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