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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    There should not be anything between the engine case the bottom of the filter canister, which is where the bypass valve should be. I am not sure if Porsche still sells the bypass assembly separate from the canister housing anymore, but a good parts department should be able to answer that.
  2. JFP in PA
    Yes, it is called "cam allocation", and covers several pages in service manuals, and requires some special tools as well. As Porsche stopped printing this information several model years before your car was built, you (or your technician) would need to obtain it from Porsche's online subscription service at http://www.renntech.org/forums/links/goto/18-porsche-piwis-tsi/
  3. JFP in PA
    If you are referring to the fasteners that hold the VarioCam+ drive on the end of the cam, the answer is possibly yes.
  4. JFP in PA
    If it was a loose gas cap, you would get a specific code of a large EVAP system leak.
  5. JFP in PA
    I am not a fan of Mobil 1 products. Some of the Motul oils are pretty good, but if I were you I would be looking at Joe Gibbs DT40. I have never heard of internal moisture build up leading to misfires, but even slightly cracked coil packs will, particularly if it is raining or wet out. Moisture inside the engine is not a function of oil brand or type, it ususally stems from the engine not getting hot enough to burn it off from things like short trips.
  6. JFP in PA
    If the fuel filter clogged, all the cylinders would begin to lean out and you would get an overly lean code from the O2 sensors, so I don't think it is necessarily that. You should also be able to see a clogged filter with a fuel pressure and delivery test. As I do not know what facilities you have at your disposal, I would suggest getting the car scanned on a Porsche specific diagnostic system (Durametric, PIWIS, PST II), looking for anything out of the ordinary (strange responses from the O2 sensors, fuel trims, etc.). As cylinders 1 & 4 look like a starting point, I would also pay close attention to them, pull the plugs and coil packs, closely checking them for any discoloration on the plugs, cracked ceramics, loose coil pack connectors, cracks in the coil packs themselves, etc.). While some parts may need to be replaced, I would not replace them without knowing why.
  7. JFP in PA
    Most likely not; as you noted, it is a common occurrence on these vehicles. The most common misfire areas are spark (or lack there of) and fuel (overly lean/rich mixtures). Fuel issues tend to throw emissions codes, so I would start by checking the coil packs (common problem area) and plugs.
  8. JFP in PA
    Motive also makes one for those uninclined to build one themselves:
  9. JFP in PA
    You are throwing misfire codes for cylinders 1 and 4. Could be a number of things (coil packs, plugs, etc.). Clear the codes and see if they return; it could have just been a momentary thing.
  10. JFP in PA
    That stupid little bolt has given a lot of people grief and caused more than one to have to pull a lot of other stuff out of the way to replace the tensioner when the bolt gets banged up and can no longer be held while installing the roller, or will not tighten into the arm itself. Not surprised they updated it. Just looked up the assembly in the service manual, it is 44 ft. lb.
  11. JFP in PA
    I also found another reference for 44 ft. lb.in another source.
  12. JFP in PA
    OK, checked a Pelican "how to", and found this: You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).
  13. JFP in PA
    Let me see if I can find it in a different source; back in a bit..............
  14. JFP in PA
    I'm sorry, you are correct; the pulley at the "L" end of the tensioner arm should be 44ft. lb. I must have been looking at the spec for the #4 bolt into the "L" shaped arm itself and not the pulley spec. :oops: Still needs some Loctite if reusing the bolt however.
  15. JFP in PA
    Item #4:
  16. JFP in PA
    Upper idler (M10X145) 34 ft. lb. Lower idler (M8X55) 17 ft. lb. Spring loaded tensioner (M10X30) 7.5 ft. lb. If you are reusing the original bolts, use Loctite 270 on them and the factory bolts were originally microencapsulated with a thread locker.
  17. JFP in PA
    Just about everyone we see in the shop makes some noise, particularly on a cold start up. You always could have an additional issue, but these things just make some noise. If you are concerned it is something in excess of normal, have your shop look into it, if for no other reason than to put your mind at rest.
  18. JFP in PA
    The turbo cars all tend to be slightly noisy at cold start up, nothing unusual.
  19. JFP in PA
    Not really, it is over as far as I am concerned.
  20. JFP in PA
    It gets its power from the Tiptronic controller (rear boot), which has its own fuse (fuse holder C, circuit C5, 15A) which supplies all power for the Tip:
  21. JFP in PA
    No, it does not. The wiring and reverse switch itself are under the car and on the transmission itself:
  22. JFP in PA
    You can probably pick up a reverse signal off the flat ribbon cable coming off the Tip, but you are going to need a wiring diagram before you start trying to cut into the cable as they are expensive to replace.
  23. JFP in PA
    I don't see how selling the M96 recouped the cost for doing the swap, as the numbers you posted for parts alone without including the purchase price for LS engine unit exceeds what we just paid for a clean M96 by $1K, and there is nothing "hypothetical" about that.................
  24. JFP in PA
    We just had a clean, stock 1999 C2 in the shop last week for a PPI, the owner was asking fifteen and change for it. A quick search turns up several others in a similar price range. Using your numbers from the previous posts, $4K for the kit, $1k for wiring and misc., and say $5k for a nice LS unit; you are at $10K before labor. If the C2 is stock form was worth mid teens (use $15K) before you started, and using $0 for your labor, you broke even (or very near to it) selling the car for $25K. Selling the M96 (I just purchased one for a customer, low miles in very nice condition for $4K), and you recouped some three to four or so $K. Knowing what we charge to do a direct like for like swap on an M96 (and I can assure you that no independent in this geography gets anywhere near "$150+/hr.", which exceeds even dealer labor rates), and using that for a labor recover estimate, you are still very near break even. And I do not believe for one second you sold the M96 for the $10K just estimated the swap cost you at $0 for your labor.
  25. JFP in PA
    What I'm having an extremely had time getting my head around is: I've replaced more than a few M96's in my shop, and absolutely none of them came anywhere near $20K. You stated that the LS swap should cost about $20K all in. You sold a 1999 C2 that was probably worth mid teens as it stood before the swap for $25K after the $20K (your numbers) swap. Somehow, the numbers are just not making sense.
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