JFP in PA

I would get that in writing as part of a "money back guarantee" before you consider buying it. Tools, like the Autologic system, which does and excellent job on Porsches and many other cars, opens at around $12K set up for Porsche, +yearly updates, + other make modules. And please do not post multiple copies of the same post in different areas of RennTech (I already removed your duplicate posting), it violates the terms you agreed to when you joined. The reason I posted in both forums Cayenne and 996 is I'm fortunate to own both of them and I wanted to hear from both clans on their experience on either vehicle. Is it possible to repost back to Cayenne Forum as well? We have a forum section titled "Diagnostics, Tips and Diagnostic Tools" which is specifically for the discussion of diagnostic tools or systems for use on or across any Porsche models; in the future I would suggest posting similar topics there.

That probably has to do with the "cross pollination" between the Cayenne and the VW's. We constantly hear about people using VAG COM or Ross Tech diagnostics successfully on the Cayenne, while that same tools can do little on the other Porsche models, and the Durametric is just the opposite.

You guys north of the border are getting hammered on price, it sells for $970 here on Amazon : http://www.amazon.com/Autel-Automotive-Diagnostic-Analysis-System/dp/B008XN7NUG

I would get that in writing as part of a "money back guarantee" before you consider buying it. Tools, like the Autologic system, which does and excellent job on Porsches and many other cars, opens at around $12K set up for Porsche, +yearly updates, + other make modules. And please do not post multiple copies of the same post in different areas of RennTech (I already removed your duplicate posting), it violates the terms you agreed to when you joined.

And the year and model of the vehicle please.

Not at all, but you are vastly over estimating what a replacement M96 can cost.

Not really a "level playing field" cost comparison, unless you are starting with a crate engine LS. You can find a fully serviceable M96 in the $4-7K range, depending upon which model you are looking for.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Not surprised you can't find it, Porsche no longer prints any service manuals (and has not for several years), but it is all available online via subscription at PIWIS TSI: https://techinfo2.porsche.com/PAGInfosystem/VFModuleManager?Type=GVOStart

Not really, in the shop we buy it for stock and use it exclusively on customer's cars. I have never seen anything that says the Pentosin product is acceptable for this application, including in the factory service manuals. I know that Porsche uses the Pentosin product in their steering systems, but not the tops.

If power steering fluid was OK, Porsche would have used it, but they didn't and chose to use something specifically for the top system. A 250ml container retails for around $50.

The oil speced for the top is Porsche part # 000-043-204-89. Pentosin CHF11S is power steering fluid.

I would at least have the car looked at; it should not have a dropping oil level, much less a flashing oil light.

The sticker with the codes in my car shows code X34. Would that explain the white gauge dials? X34 is the "painted instrument panel", which may have included the dials.

Why are you surprised? Brembo has been an OEM supplier to Porsche and other manufacturer's for decades.

+1. This cannot be described as a fun job.

It is the perfect product for this, leaves a dry lubricating film that will not attract moisture or dirt, and once dry does not transfer to other surfaces.

Depending upon how it was applied, it may require steam to remove it. Most shops that do window tint offer removal services as well.

That's what I thought. My fabric still beads quite well, so nothing needed there yet I use Gummi Pflege to condition the rubber surfaces after cleaning with a mild detergent. Are there regular lubrication spots? A little lithium grease everywhere there is a pivot point or an obvious metal to metal contact point? Sparingly of course to avoid getting any on the canvas top. Long before I would risk using lithium grease, I would use du Pont's spray on dry Teflon.

A Targa has a removable roof section, the Carrera may have a moon roof, but the roof it self is fixed. The Carrera is also offered as a cabriolet. GT2 cars are Turbos, GT3's are normally aspirated. You can learn more about the differences by either doing a search (always your friend) or going here: http://www.porsche.com/usa/models/911/

They are referring to retreating the fabric with a water repellant material.

Et la même chose pour vous et les vôtres, plus meilleurs voeux pour la nouvelle année sécuritaire, sain et prospère! :cheers:

Here ya go, just put a bow on it and place it under your tree.............. And for a bit more "seasonal frivolity", here is a 1054HP race version Hans whipped up for Porsche's Indy and F1 development:

Hard to say without actually seeing the car. First of all, and off center steering wheel is a mechanical alignment adjustment that typically does not require replacing parts unless there are other underlying parts problems (e.g.: loose tie rod ends), which would also usually cause other noticeable problems like wheel shimmy or strange steering feel. I would suggest taking the car to another shop that specializes in Porsches and have them look at it; it is probably not a dangerous issue, but it should be investigated.

I bring a different perspective to the conversation because as a shop owner, I get to see and drive a lot of different cars on a regular basis. I'm also the guy the cars come to when things are not doing so well, and when the question of why things sometimes cost so much come up. So let me see if I can help shed any light on your question. Adding a real 30HP to a normally aspirated 996 will make a difference in how the car feels and performs if the modifications raise both the HP and Torque curves above the stock curves in a useful portion of the engine's RPM range. Unfortunately, in the aftermarket, that seems to rarely happen. Some modifications, replacement plenums and large throttle bodies come to mind, can actually lower the mid range torque and HP numbers somewhat, only adding real additional power over stock in the last few RPM's before the rev limiter kicks in. So if asked does this modification make more absolute power, the answer is yes, but the car does not show it in normal driving, and may actually feel a bit softer. And that can be a lot of money to spend for a small performance advantage in and RPM range that the engine spends very little time in. Modifications that only make power at the extremes of the RPM range maybe good perhaps for bragging rights, not so much for track lap times. Secondly, when asked what modifications we would suggest, we always start with the basics on the normally aspirated cars: Plan on building a solid foundation before you start trying to build HP. The normally aspirated M96 engine has a known Achilles heel: the IMS. Fortunately, there are excellent aftermarket fixes for this. So before spending a ton of cash on exhaust, intake, or DME modifications, update the IMS, add a spin on oil filter, and a magnetic drain plug and Filter Mag. Then you have a solid foundation to consider additional modifications to without having everything suddenly being reduced to a boat anchor. Lastly, the Turbos; are they worth the money? The answer has to be "YES!" in all capital letters. I have had the pleasure to drive every Turbo made, from the early 930 air cooled street cars, to the 935 slant nose RS and RSR, the 996 and 997, and even a handful of the 991's with the new 9A1 derived engines; and I can assure you that each new model has added to the legend of those that preceded them. A Mezger engine 996 Turbo is both a well balanced car and one with incredible potential. For the money it takes to make a claimed additional 30HP in a normally aspirated 996, you can take a 996 Turbo from being very impressive to down right scary across the entire RPM range; and do it knowing the factory engine will happily take it and ask for more.

Only problem is that while a failing battery or dying alternator will trigger the dash MIL's, the car noramlly would not code when that occurs, which the OP's vehicle has done.