JFP in PA

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric. I have not spent much time with the latest version of this scanner, but these things are more code readers than a true diagnostic tool. The one that I looked at could not read cam deviation values, would not reset air bag or service reminders, was incapable of re-coding a car (activating on board computers, cruise controls, steering angle resets, activate the ABS/PSM system to bleed air out of it, etc.), etc. The fact that their advertising says it works on multiple European brand models raises a big flag as Porsche has long been known for have a unique diagnostic system. Even the guys that make excellent diagnostic tools for VW and Audi will tell you that their tools are hamstrung on a Porsche and to go to Durametric. I'm sure it will read global OBD II codes on a Porsche, but remain circumspect that it can function in the traditional "protected codes" areas of the car. The only tools that I know of that can do that are the Durametric, PIWIS, and AutoLogic systems. And before you ask, an AutoLogic tool set up for Porsche is approaching $12K, plus updates. Thanx JFP. It is only a code reader and resetter. This particular version is Porsche specific and I do think it reads all the codes. At least it has one chapter on OBD codes and other chapters on stuff like the seats. I have no way of knowing if it is missing codes. $12,000 is out of the question. If I had that money now it would go into a Fabspeed perfomance system for the Turbo :-) I'll look into a cheap Laptop. The consumer Durametric is limited to three cars. Do you know what happens when you run out of cars? Can you buy an extension or do you just have to buy another one? The only other way out of this one is to spend twice as much on the Indie version. How do you get updates?? I believe that you can either convert the Enthusiast version to the Pro for a fee, or get the unit reset back to three available for a fee. As I have always used the Pro version, I am not sure of the exact proceedures, but if you drop Durametric an email, I'm sure they will fill in any details for you. Periodically, with no definitive time pattern, Durametric releases a new version with patches, bug fixes and new features. When they do, you go to their website and download the new version, following the instructions on the site to replace the older version. Updates are unlimited and completely free.

I would also look at Sunset Porsche, a board sponsor.

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric. I have not spent much time with the latest version of this scanner, but these things are more code readers than a true diagnostic tool. The one that I looked at could not read cam deviation values, would not reset air bag or service reminders, was incapable of re-coding a car (activating on board computers, cruise controls, steering angle resets, activate the ABS/PSM system to bleed air out of it, etc.), etc. The fact that their advertising says it works on multiple European brand models raises a big flag as Porsche has long been known for have a unique diagnostic system. Even the guys that make excellent diagnostic tools for VW and Audi will tell you that their tools are hamstrung on a Porsche and to go to Durametric. I'm sure it will read global OBD II codes on a Porsche, but remain circumspect that it can function in the traditional "protected codes" areas of the car. The only tools that I know of that can do that are the Durametric, PIWIS, and AutoLogic systems. And before you ask, an AutoLogic tool set up for Porsche is approaching $12K, plus updates.

You are is Zone 9 of the Porsche Club of America: http://zone9.pca.org/

Gold Meister ratings are highly desirable, but I would also suggest contacting your local PCA chapter for some recommendations in your area.

You need to make sure that the shop has specific experience with the Porsche Tiptronic as you really don't want to be their first experiment, and they should also have any special tooling required.

It would be well worth your while to have the car tested for both correct fuel pressure and delivery as well.

That does not sound like clutch slippage.

I understand that you can run Durametric on an Apple platform using an Windows emulator program.

It is also a lot less capable than the Durametric.

You would need to address technical issues with them directly. We use IE11 and have no issues.

Any decent AP store should carry it.

We stay with a high temperature synthetic brake grease we get from Permatex called "Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube". You only need a little, so don't go nuts with it.

I'm not sure what you are seeing, unless the new unit has a problem. Normally, we see around 5 inches of water on a good AOS. And while I have never seen a new one that was off right out of the box, that does not mean it cannot happen.

The M96 engines are all the same from a given year and model, it is all the other stuff (electronics, etc. associated with the transmission that are different, but you already have all that). LN Engineering has an affiliate, Bilt Racing Service, that does mechanical work somewhere near Chicago; you might want to look into them.

Yeah, wasn't planning on starting that cam-cover project until I had the tools to hold the cams. Trying to exhaust all other possibilities before pulling the trigger on the tools and time. Looks like an interesting project, just not something I wanted to do but will do it if needed. Spent way too much time already looking at the process. After doing the plugs today, it looks like the cam covers can be removed in-car. Is that possible? It's a little tight, but having it on the lift and panels removed it seems do-able. Jay. The cam covers can come off with the engine still in the car. It will be tight, but it is doable.

You cannot remove the cam covers without special tools as the covers also actually hold the cams in as well. Do a search, there have been DIY's on how to do this and the tooling involved. It could be one or more cam followers (lifter) which has collapsed (they are hydraulic). Changing them out will require pulling the cams off to get at them.

You can probably find a copy for sale either as a CD or download online somewhere.

He used Porsche's PET system.

Pentosin CHF 202 is the specified oil for the car.

Yes.

You need to remove the engine cover in the inside rear of the car: http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/cayman-cosmetic-mods/p182-engine-cover-removal.html The dipstick will be towards the driver's compartment end of the opening

Or excessive chain slap from a dying hydraulic chain tensioner on a badly worn wear pad.

If the car is losing power steering fluid, and if you do not monitor and keep the reservoir (in the engine bay) refilled, you could burn up the steering pump by driving it. Park it until it can be looked at.