JFP in PA

Ah! OK, that was going to be my next question, so unfortunately we have drawn a blank there. Because of the number of possible individual switches involved, it is going to be cumbersome, to say the least, to test each one manually, as you would have to tear the car apart to do so. Is there anyone else near you with a PIWS/PST II, Durametric, or Autologic system you could use to retest?

Can you elaborate on your comments? I'm not exactly sure I understand what you are referring to here.

While I can honestly say I have not personally encountered what you are describing, normally when a clutch in one of these cars is on its way out, the pedal effort increases, not decreases. When was the last time your brake and clutch hydraulics were flushed?

Have you scanned the car with a Porsche specific tool?

If they are staying on longer than Loren pointed out, one common culprit has been a bad ignition switch (electrical section), which is a simple and cheap DIY.

To find out, warm the car up to the problem conditions, remove the serpentine belt, and try turning the suspect pulley by hand, looking for unusual feel or sounds.

Headlight issues: HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. You either have an electrical issue (loose connector, frayed wiring, etc.) with one or both lights, one or more weak servo motors that move the lights, or the headlight control module itself is on the way out. From the OEM manual: Fault code 1 Motor circuit, left This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA, left, terminals 1,2, 3, 4 2. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the supply leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA. Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary. Fault code 2 Motor circuit, right This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotorfor HBA, right, terminals 5, 6, 7, 8 2. Servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: - Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, right, terminals 5, 6, 7, 8 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 5, 6, 7, and 8; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA.

Decidedly yes. The CPS is a simple Hall Effect type sensor that generates a very weak electrical signal when ferrous metal moves past it. If it shorts, it will throw a specific codes, but if the signal is just weak, or even non existent, the DME just thinks the engine is not turning and shuts off the fuel and ignition without a code being thrown as the DME sees nothing unusual. It is a quirk of how crank position sensors work.

I would still look the CPS as when they go bad the often do not throw any codes, but will not let the car start, particularly when warm.

Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different. What you're trying to say is that finding a used identical box is impossible? No, I am not. Using your picture above: You have to find one with the exact same 3D0 909 601 D part number; the serial number (*0036 Q 002CM1T*) is does not matter as the only one with that number is the one in your photo. I apologize if I'm nagging. I'm just trying to learn as much about my box as possible. However, you can clarify your last post, I would be very grateful. it is enough that I can find a box from a Porsche Cayenne S 4,5l 2004 model with the same 3D0 909 601 D Part Number. The serial number is thus unique to each box and is only one of each? That is correct. The serial numbers are unique to each box, so they do not matter, you just want to exactly match the part number. I appoint you to my everyday hero. Thanks for your time and dedication to my problem. Greatly appreciated! with the best porsche greetings Alexander Tobiasson, Sweden Tack. ;)

You should always include the year and model when asking these type of questions as the diagnostic's can differ. Several possibles: Low fuel pressure or delivery volume, possible pump or fuel line issue. Early cars also had a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that could cause issues, as well as an external fuel filter that can clog. Another would be a failing crank position sensor; when they go off, the DME does not see the engine turning and shuts off the fuel pump. You are going to need to dig in and do some testing.

Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different. What you're trying to say is that finding a used identical box is impossible? No, I am not. Using your picture above: You have to find one with the exact same 3D0 909 601 D part number; the serial number (*0036 Q 002CM1T*) is does not matter as the only one with that number is the one in your photo. I apologize if I'm nagging. I'm just trying to learn as much about my box as possible. However, you can clarify your last post, I would be very grateful. it is enough that I can find a box from a Porsche Cayenne S 4,5l 2004 model with the same 3D0 909 601 D Part Number. The serial number is thus unique to each box and is only one of each? That is correct. The serial numbers are unique to each box, so they do not matter, you just want to exactly match the part number.

Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different. What you're trying to say is that finding a used identical box is impossible? No, I am not. Using your picture above: You have to find one with the exact same 3D0 909 601 D part number; the serial number (*0036 Q 002CM1T*) is does not matter as the only one with that number is the one in your photo.

That terminal lug is part of the starter's solenoid unit, which may be difficult to source separately from the starter. It would be worth a search however, as the solenoid is a fraction of the price of a complete starter.

Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different.

Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

The special adaptor is only needed if your engine stand head does not adjust enough to accommodate the smaller shape of the M96 bell housing. Many engine stands will work just fine.

Lowering the engine makes the AOS much more accessible.

Some oil consumption is not uncommon on the M96, but yours sounds excessive. First thing to check is the AOS, try removing the oil fill cap while the car idles; if it is very hard to remove, you are sucking oil in through a bad AOS, which you can change out. The M96 is also known for wearing the cylinder walls on the thrust side of the pistons; if yours has gone that way, a total rebuild is the only cure. You can usually detect cylinder scoring with a simple compression test, or by using a bore scope.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Some of the earlier PDK cars suffered what has to be described as "teething pains" that were corrected (as much as possible) with some software updates. Have your dealer check to be sure you have the latest software.

You want an OEM cap whose part number ends in -04 or higher.

There are several type and sizes of pin extraction tools: Amazon, amongst others, sells several of them

All coolant system combustion gas tests require a running engine to get accurate results. The Lisle tester works fine, but it can be fooled by coolant getting into the tester which can lead to strange results. If you use the Lisle tester, follow the directions very carefully and watch to see if the test fluid level increases, which would be a sign that liquid coolant has gotten into it.

Other than the ground fault Loren mentioned, I am also not aware of any "catastrophic failure" issues with these cars.