JFP in PA

+1 on RFM's comment. Porsche uses a coolant that is well known for "not playing well with others", so mixing in third party chemicals sometimes leading to gelation of the coolant that requires a time consuming and expensive removal process. Put the car up in the air, remove the lower cover panels and find out what is leaking; then fix it. "Stop Leak" compounds are a temporary band aid, not a repair.

They are a "wear" item, like a clutch or brakes.

The caliper bolts get loosened then the caliper slides on two steel rods (pins) (special tool T10439) to suspend the caliper while you remove and replace the pads. 2011 calipers.png Loren , so for the new style rotors on 2011-2014 Cayenne models do you just loosen the caliper bolt screws and just pull off onto pins? I was able to purchase the pins via snapon VW. I'm curious if I need to try to push brake pistons back some with screw driver to loosen pads before removing brake caliper? Normally, if you remove the caliper bolt and install the service pins, a quick "shake" back and forth is enough to push the pads back enough. If not, simply slide a thin tool like a scraper between the pad and rotor to push them back enough to remove the caliper.

JFP, been doing some research and read on another board that when doing the rear brakes you just have to make sure the electronic parking brake is off along with air suspension, no need to calibrating or dealer tester. Also would you happen to know the torque specs for front and rear caliper bolts and rotor bolts? Any suggestions on how to push the brake pistons back in order to pull caliper off rotor? Asking because the front and rear caliper have the new brembo C caliper design. Depends upon the mileage and how the vehicle has been used, The electric e-brake shoes sit fairly close to the drum area inside the rear rotors when in the "off" position; if there is any lip on the edge of the e-brake drum, either from wear or just simple corrosion, you will not be able to pull the rotors off without tearing up the e-brake shoes. When that happens, the e-brake has to be put in the "service position", which retracts the drum shoes to allow the rotor to be removed. After the rotor is reinstalled, the e-brake then has to be 're-calibrated" to put the shoes back in the correct position near the drum surface. The rear caliper bolts are another "conundrum". When Porsche first went to this caliper design, there were no published torque specs, but as the same brakes appear on VW Touareg models, most shops simply used the VW information; however that has also proven confusing. VW listed the rear caliper bolts as "single use, torque to yield" type, torqued to 110 Ft. lb. + 90 degrees. But when we tried to buy new bolts (used on Porsche, Audi, and VW models), we found none of the local dealers either carried them in stock, or had ever ordered them, which means they had never replaced them. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 200 ft. lb., and the disc to hub screws are 10.5 ft. lb. The preferred pad retraction tool is the Lisle 25750:

There are a multitude of reasons why one of these engines could be ticking; everything from lifter issues, to bad chain tensioners, and even the EVAP system purge valve under the intake manifold. You need to open up the engine bay, get an automotive stethoscope and start checking everything for noise source locations. There are no fast and easy ways to do this, you need to track down the source.

Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high — light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right Note The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously (1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)

Easy to tell by looking at it, the OEM plug is silver in color and has an 8MM Allan key way; the LN unit is black and uses a 10MM Allan.

Yes. There should be a DIY on how to access it in the archives. It is behind the front bumper cover The cable is on the right hand (US driver's) side, the forward top portion. You have to pull hard on it to release the latch. The cable is exactly the one on the picture (arrow) but further aft because now the picture show the front bumper cover removed:

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit. I have tried to clean but it does not help. I have noticed that the warning lamp for the "safety belt" is not lit when driving without a seat belt. The warning light does not indicate when starting the car. I have never seen the light shine sometime? It is sounding more like you have a buckle or wiring issue, you should get an indication and/or a audio alarm of some sort if you try driving without the seat belt. I get no sound or indicator in the display. Neither the driver side or passenger side. The lamp has never shone in my possession of the car. You advise me to change Buckel seat? No, I am advising you to do some diagnostics to find out why the car does not sense that you are driving it with the seat belts undone. The buckle is just one component in this system that needs to be tested either electrically or using a Porsche specific scan tool. Besides the buckles, there are also weight sensors in the seat cushion's that sense when someone sits in the seat. Something in this network of contacts (in the buckles) and sensors is obviously not functioning correctly. Are you sure someone has not disconnected something in the system before you purchased the car, which is why none of the alerts are set off when you drive without seatbelts? If you go back to Loren's post on the meaning of the code you are seeing, it looks like something is not connected or misconnected.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit. I have tried to clean but it does not help. I have noticed that the warning lamp for the "safety belt" is not lit when driving without a seat belt. The warning light does not indicate when starting the car. I have never seen the light shine sometime? It is sounding more like you have a buckle or wiring issue, you should get an indication and/or a audio alarm of some sort if you try driving without the seat belt.

Mijostyn is on the money here. Because of the design and setup lead times in automotive manufacturing, just about any digital or electronic entertainment technology that appears in a car is usually already about 5 years old when it first appears in the car, so it is not unusual to be able to do much better for less money in the aftermarket. Take the money and go buy something that better suits your needs.

Please do not post the same topic multiple times, it is against forum rules.

Have you really been using 0W-30 oil?

OK, some more data: Porsche released a TSB (TSB #ATI-1301) entitled " INFORMATION PROVIDED ON SUCCESSFULLY CALIBRATING ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKES. MODELS 2010-2013 PANAMERA, CAYENNE". I do not have a copy, but you may find one on the web.

The PIWIS will do it, but perhaps someone on the site has come up with an alternative "work around".

Only on engines with very high mileage or scored cylinder walls.

Unfortunately, while the Durametric can see many things, fuel pressure is not one of them; that requires a mechanical gauge hooked up to the test port on the fuel rail. The Durametric would still be an excellent addition to any Porsche owners tool kit however.

A decent fuel test unit (Actron) is going to be about $60 or so, and has adaptors to work on just about anything. With a test unit, you can test for fuel pressure and delivery rates to determine if the fuel pump is working correctly. You can also check for pressure bleed down while the engine is off, a sign the regulator is on the way out.

I seriously doubt the new CPS is at fault, it is a simple Hall Effect sensor with no moving parts. Do you have a fuel pressure test unit for the car? That would be the next thing that I would look at

As there are no activations in Durametric for the parking brake on your model & year, I would have to say no.

That looks like the EVAP system purge line.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults. No, this was new information for me. Where can I find it / them ??? The seat belt buckles, the part that the shoulder harness plugs into, have wires running to them that tell the system when the seat belts are buckled and turn off the seat belt alert chimes. They also help tell the air bag system which seats are occupied in case of a crash, as well as controlling the system pre-tensioners. If the buckles get dirt in them, they often do not register properly and the air bag system declares a fault. Sometimes, but not always, just cleaning out the buckles with some electrical contact cleaner will solve the issue, other times the buckle and/or wiring harness need to be replaced as wear has broken the circuit.

Have you checked the grounds on the seat belt buckles? They are well known for ground related faults.

+1

As the car must have taken a jolt when you hit the pothole, the plug connector on the temp sensor or the surge tank level sensor may have come loose. Suggest checking them for a tight connections.