JFP in PA

RPM, are you saying that the 997.1 C2S has a different clutch than a "standard" C2? If so, is it still a dual mass type that cannot be resurfaced? j - 78,000 miles on my '06 C2S still going with the original clutch. Cheers, Johan No dual mass flywheel should be resurfaced. If it is beat up, it needs to be replaced.

Not necessarily. All Porsche's have a low, but continuous background drain on the battery to run the alarm system, retain radio station presets, keep the clock in time, etc. This is completely normal, and typically would be around 40-60 mA, and is why Porsche has set these vehicles up to easily use battery maintainers. If your drain is higher than that, the correct way to track it down is to measure the drain at the battery with a multimeter while pulling fuses one at time until you hit the circuit causing the higher drain.

A fuel system product like Techron will only clean the components that come in direct contact with the fuel, like injectors, valves, etc.; but in the process tends to foul the engine oil. If you are concerned about cleaning the leaking oil off the engine, first correct the problems with the leaking tubes (O-rings, replacement tubes, etc.) then clean the engine bay with a commercial engine cleaning product. Some use products like Simple Green or Orange Blast, which are great at cutting oil and grease.

Because the engine case is under s slight vacuum (around 5 inches of water), the could code for a vacuum leak if the cap was loose enough. But that would not explain the smoke or the engine shut down.

You did not say the year or model, but assuming you have a 997, yes, you need to lower the engine and push it to one side slightly to get at the AOS. It is in a tight spot, making it a bit of a pain, but it is doable. You can also test for a failed AOS by trying to remove the oil fill cap with the car idling, if it is difficult to get off, the AOS is gone.

Spray them with penetrating oil and let them sit for a bit before trying to remove them.

Unbolt the mounting brackets from the car while supporting the muffler, they will then come off easily.

In order to change the wire connectors, you will need the appropriate terminal pin extraction tools, which depress a small locking tang in the terminal pins, allowing them to be removed without damage.

You are at an obvious cusp point many owners reach: Do I reinvest in a car that I enjoy daily in order to continue with it, or do I fold and move on. As Ahsai pointed out, the answer to that question depends upon how long you intend to keep the car. Unfortunately, you are the only person that can balance all the factors involved and make a decision the best matches your situation.

When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed?

It is not as bad as you might think.

You do not need to reset anything for the car to accept the new plugs and O2 sensors. Nice shop layout, by-the-by. :thumbup:

I had an additional thought on this repair; a couple of companies produce stainless steel replacement stud kits for mounting the calipers, like those used on the cup cars. You would still need to do the Time Cert repair, but instead of using new caliper bolts, you would install the corrosion proof stainless studs which would never have to be removed again. This would add about $100 to the project, but you would never be faced with a repeat of the problem you currently have.

If the alternator shaft threads are damaged, you may have to spring for an entire new unit, which can be a bit expensive. You could use a thread locker to help hold it, but that would create additional problems down the road if you ever had to take it apart. You can use Sunset Porsche's online system to get a decent price for a replacement unit: http://www.porschepartshub.com/

Only when someone did something stupid. This car sounds like it may have been run up on something as leaking radiators are often the result of something on that side suffering an impact, like running the car up on a parking space curb or a rock. The strange thing to me is that the rims of the front wheel are fine, and since these cars are tracked, maybe this is a built in safety release of pressure.under compression. We have been servicing an repairing these cars for many years, and I have never hear or read about any kind of "safety release under compression" for this component, but we have seen people get overly creative when trying to drive them and end up over their heads and with an extensive repair bill. And the lower strut clamping mounting method is commonly used on a lot of vehicles, not just Porsches. If you are seriously considering this car, I would not buy it without having the car's four wheel alignment checked first, and perhaps even having it checked on a frame jig for straightness as well. I'll keep the topic updated when I get more information on it. On this specific question, have you ever seen this slip between the knuckle and the lower end of the strut, on a Porsche ? Was it a 977 ? Does the C4 and C2 share the same fitment of the lower end of the strut into the al. knuckle ? Thanks again. Yes, but only in cases where there was abuse (the car hit something like a curb or pothole very hard; or someone had not reassembled the car correctly). C2 and C4 cars use different front strut and wheel carrier assemblies, but both have a similar method of how they are clamped in the wheel carriers. If you have access to a Bentley service manual, there are complete diagrams and photos of both style assemblies.

These engines use MLS head gaskets, and I have never seen or heard of one failing. Cylinder heads crack, but the head gaskets have proven to be bullet proof. We have also seen our share of M96 IMS failures; some of the engines were internally devastated, but never dropped a spec of oil or coolant on the ground. The most common description of the IMS failure was that the engine started to shake or make an odd sound, lost power, and then just stopped. You may have suffered a catastrophic AOS failure, which will suddenly suck in a lot of oil into the engine, eventually stalling it. If the car threw a code, it should still be retained in the DME, so along with checking the oil filter for debris, I would scan the car without starting it.

Only when someone did something stupid. This car sounds like it may have been run up on something as leaking radiators are often the result of something on that side suffering an impact, like running the car up on a parking space curb or a rock. The strange thing to me is that the rims of the front wheel are fine, and since these cars are tracked, maybe this is a built in safety release of pressure.under compression. We have been servicing an repairing these cars for many years, and I have never hear or read about any kind of "safety release under compression" for this component, but we have seen people get overly creative when trying to drive them and end up over their heads and with an extensive repair bill. And the lower strut clamping mounting method is commonly used on a lot of vehicles, not just Porsches. If you are seriously considering this car, I would not buy it without having the car's four wheel alignment checked first, and perhaps even having it checked on a frame jig for straightness as well.

New member :eek: The 997 gen I (2006) C4 Cab we are looking at has a M9605 engine, according to the Porsche VIN report. Engine # is 69606529. I thought that the 3.8 (s) cars had the M97 engine. If you look back in this thread, Loren posted a PDF breaking down how the engine codes work, which should be helpful.

Only when someone did something stupid. This car sounds like it may have been run up on something as leaking radiators are often the result of something on that side suffering an impact, like running the car up on a parking space curb or a rock.

For future reference, you should only use product's designed for the purpose, like MAF cleaners such as the CRC product: A lot of brake cleaners are chlorinated, which can damage critical components in some systems. The Durametric system is functioning correctly; the ROW cars use and different DME software which responds differently than that found the North American cars.

P0506 indicates that the idle air control valve may be sticking, causing the engine to idle too low. If cleaning the IAC does not improve the situation (they usually suffer from a carbon build up), replace it. Early ROW 996's can only trigger one bank's VarioCam actuators using the Durametric system.

You are actually kind of spoiled for choice in your area as there are a lot of respected independent shops at nearby locations: Dougherty Automotive in West Chester Possum Hollow Motorsports in Phoenixville Performance Automotive in Malvern Tilson Motorcars in PHL Woodlawn Service in PHL Just to name a few. You can also contact your local PCA chapter (Riesentöter http://rtr-pca.org/) as I am sure the local members will have direct experience based suggestions as well.

When was the transmission last serviced? I don't show any service in any of the paperwork. Then change the transmission oil and filter; while you may only have low miles, the fluid is 14 years old.

When was the transmission last serviced?

There is a company in New Jersey called Wurth Products (201-825-2710) that is supposed to have the Time Cert kit for the M12x1.5x72 caliper bolts. http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/company/aboutwurthusa/aboutwurthusa.php