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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. P0710 code is often a temp sensor failure in the Tip. Problem is that the sensor is very expensive to replace (sveral hundred bucks for a new one in a box), so I would first check the actual fluid temperature to make sure the unit really is not running hot before considering replacing the sensor.
  2. Because of the relative "newness" of the PDK technology, even a lot of the dealer's techs are not going to be overly knowledgeable on what problems can and do occur. PCNA, on the other hand, sees the "bigger picture" on this technology, and can often recommend an appropriate course of action for the dealer to try. A lot of the issues with PDK's have been software related, and there have been multiple updates, some have helped, others not so much. Talking with PCNA is not going to necessarily get the dealer in hot water, but it could help lead them to a answer that solves the problem.
  3. The main reason I would be interested in adding a TPMS to my car is early detection of slow leak flats, before the tire gets damaged. Wouldn't a TMPS serve that purpose?Thanks It would, but then so would a $5 tire pressure gauge and checking the tires from time to time.
  4. Actually, just about every year since they became mandatory here in 2007. They are expensive, not particularly accurate (although better than nothing), and more expensive to have to replace every 4-6 years. Yes, they can be turned off, and no, most (if not all) shops won't do it as they are a Federally mandated safety system (so the car can fail annual inspection if it is turned off), and the shop can be held financially liable if the car gets into an accident. Simply ain't worth it.............
  5. I find it interesting that someone wants to add a TPMS system to a car without one, as most inquiries we get at the shop about TPMS systems are about how to turn one off on cars that came with them. Just an observation...........
  6. Warranties are a unique form of contract law, controlled by the applicable laws of the country or state in which they are issued. I would suggest having your solicitor examine the wording in your case and tell you what your options are, before making any decision.
  7. Haven't used Chrome, but have also not had complaints from users either. Check to see which time frame is selected (left side of main screen), many use "last 24 hours".
  8. +1 on Ahsai's comment. There are also other online retailers (non dealers) selling it for around $35 a gallon as well.
  9. If it actually is the same, and I do not know that as a fact, it is also around $13 per 1.5L container, so it also costs more (at retail) than Porsche coolant.
  10. If you look at where the drain plug is, the baffle is on stands cast into the pan, so the baffle is well off the sump floor, and there is even a cut out for the drain plug in the baffle. So unless the plug you used is unusually long, it should clear:
  11. When you have the oil out, take a small section of metal rod, like from a coat hanger, and measure how far up you have to push it before it hits, marking the rod. Then compare that distance to the length from the mating face of the magnetic plug to the tip of the magnet. Should give you a reference point of how close the plug comes to hitting.
  12. Next time you change your oil, shine a small flashlight up in the opening and see what is there. There really should not be any interference.
  13. Sorry, my mistake. The 9A1 sump cover has the drain off to one side a bit, with the internal baffle above the drain plug opening, but it should also be a bit higher up and not come into contact. In LN parts, both engines(M96/97 and 9A1) use the same drain plug:
  14. There should not be anything directly above the drain plug that the plug can reach. The oil pickup is above and to one side, but should be well far enough away to clear, as would the stock baffle (sump cover on the left): We have installed quite a few of the LN style magnetic plugs and I cannot say that we have ever had one hit anything:
  15. Not really. Porsche was an early adopter of the OAT technology, and has had a spotty history of not playing nice with some other brands of coolants, often resulting in gel formation in the cooling system. You need to proceed cautiously when mixing coolants as the results can be very expensive to clean out.
  16. Check the car's service records for the last time the brake hydraulic system was flushed, if it was more than 2 years ago, you need to flush the system.
  17. Cam end plug is a cheap and easy fix, the old one pops out and the new one pops in. Dried coolant on the water pump is an early sign of pending pump failure; the water pump should be replaced.
  18. Cylinder locations: P0203 indicates an injector malfunction on cylinder #3, P0267 is for a low circuit on the same injector. So it looks like #3 injector went off line and created the misfire. But neither of those faults explains the oil in the intake or on the other plugs.
  19. Right side of the engine bay, behind the recirculation fan, near the oil fill cap.
  20. The filler tube is in a bit of a tight space, but is doable with simple hand tools. It is under vacuum (or is supposed to be when everything else is sealed up), so you poor idle and noise are most likely caused by the bad filler tube.
  21. +1. You are overheating the PDK and probably boiling the brake fluid due to moisture build up. Get your brakes flushed, and do a preemptive PDK service (clutch and gearbox fluid change), both should help.
  22. I like the Solution from LN, they are well designed and made, and are the only permanent fix on the market. Not cheap, but if you are going to keep the car, it is the best option.
  23. An additional thought: If your car turns out to be a single row, and you are considering going with the new LN "Pro" dual row replacement for the OEM single row bearing, be sure the shop owns the Faultless Installation Tool that is required to do one of these swaps. You should not attempt to install the Pro dual row bearing without one.
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