JFP in PA

Further research with ZF on the topic indicates that you are correct: 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, Boxster, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.

Welcome to RennTech I think I know where this may have gone sideways: You may have used the wrong lubricant in the gear box. The PDK gear box uses Mobilube PTX formula A SAE 75W-90 GL 4.5 gear oil, the Pentosin FFL-3 is for use in the clutch, not the gear box. If you actually used the Pentosin product in the gear box, it may have caused internal damage: From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years. PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Clutch Oil filling: The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level: • Engine must be idling • Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis • Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C) • Selector-lever position “P” • Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode) • Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle • Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging • Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore • To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here. The gearbox is filled via the fill port until overflowing.

That is what I thought; and which would explain the limp mode. You need to get access to a PIWIS system to find out what is going on as most scan tools cannot even see the PDK control network.

Which transmission does the car have?

Off the top of my head, no, but any decent Porsche parts department should be able to help.

Questionable at best. We looked at two the various iterations of this system in my shop and found it lacking each time. While it does seem access some Porsche systems, many of the "claimed" capabilities were described by their rep as would be "added in a future update" when we couldn't get the system to work as described. I for one am not overly impressed by that type of performance; the tool either works, or it doesn't.

Porsche actually released a set of contour formed screens which do an excellent job of keeping the drains from getting clogged, but these still need to be cleaned periodically as they can get covered as well, but at least the drains remain clear: You could probably also make something similar yourself.

Welcome to RennTech All three codes are communication error codes for different systems. Suggest correcting the misfire issue, and then clear the codes and see what, if anything comes back.

The Durametric is as good as it gets, perhaps 80-90% of what the factory system can do; the only thing better is the PIWIS, which is a lease only system starting at $20,000 for the first year.

You may have had an air pocket that turned into a steam pocket, which is not good. You need to get the system pressure tested to find out where it is losing coolant.

P0265 is a code for a fuel injection issue, but that can be caused by the limp mode. My concern is this: Your car had multiple systems the communicate exclusively over CAN Bus, if there is truly a bus signal issue, it is not going to be easy to identify and correct without access to a PIWIS system. I would suggest you contact your local Porsche Club branch for an indie with a PIWIS system that can get you in sooner. This is not something you are going to correct with random parts swapping.

The first code: Engine Module, C0600 No Signal I believe it is the fault for CAN bus time out due to implausible signal or lack of signal; usually this is an open circuit or wiring short type issue. If I am correct, the rest of the faults can be triggered by that fault, and the engine has gone into the "limp" mode. I'd start by clearing all codes and see what comes back.

More likely a battery issue, get the battery load tested.

Have you tested the circuits as indicated above?

The O2 sensor plug has multiple pins, one is the sensor signal, another is the power supplied for the heater. I would suggest using a digital multimeter on the unplugged harness end and testing each pin for voltage with the key on, and test the heater for resistance; if there is no voltage, somewhere upstream on the harness there is either a wiring break or bad connector 9internanl corrosion), which you will have to find.

You need to test the heater circuit wiring for both sensors, the codes indicate that the sensor isn't necessarily bad, but the sensor heaters are not working. This is quite often a wiring issue.

Interesting test idea, but if you want to definitively evaluate the engine for cracks anywhere in the cooling system, the correct way to do it is with an cooling system pressure testing rig: This tool will allow you to properly test ANY cooling system, using the correct adaptor, by pressurizing the system to 18-20 PSIG, and then watching it for 15-20 min to see if it drops. If it does, first thing you check for is external leaks. which is done by adding a small quantity of cooling system YV dye, running the system, and then inspecting all possible leak points (seals, gaskets, hoses, etc.) in a darkened garage with a UV light source: If there is even the slightest leak, the UV dye will light up like a Christmas tree; if nothing is found, the leak has to be internal to the engine. At that point, a leak down test is in order to determine where (which head) is the problem: Good luck.

Welcome to RennTech The code P0674: Fuel rail pressure sensor - inappropriately high - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light. The sensor itself could be bad, or it could be the high-pressure pump pressure regulator actually causing high pressure. I would suggest having a dealer test your fuel pressure values before going forward as this requires special test equipment due to the very high-pressure values. The sensor and fuel rail are under the intake manifold, which has to be removed to replace it, but some caution is advised as this system operates at between 580 and 1740 PSIG:

It could be that there are cars out there that already had the newer bracket (and motor) and would thereby not need both if the motor needed to be changed. A lot of later model years (2010 on) came from the factory with that later design bracket.

I also want to ask you what will seem like a strange question: Have you had any water intrusion in the cabin, like under the seats? Reason I ask is that E6 shares duty with the ultra-rare factory cell phone set up and all cars are wired for it, having an unused plug for the system under one seat where the cell transmitter would have lived; if that plug gets wet, E6 blows, and you cannot fill the gas tank. Just a thought.........

The electric valves are not in that device, that device is the vacuum connection to the fuel tank and one way check valve for the EVAP system carbon canister. The electric valves are at #1 and #6 in this diagram (#1 is under the intake manifold, 6 is at the EVAP canister).

This is how the tank vent is supposed to work: The gas nozzle goes in, hits flapper, the flapper opens the magnetic "reed" switch: that is mounted to the outside of the filler tube, the reed switch tells two electric valves to open; if you push on the flapper with something, you should hear an audible click if it is working. One valve is on the tank (under battery to the right) and the other is in a box in the front right tire well (between tire and bumper). This whole process opens venting to allow the tank to fill.

I would suggest checking the engine coolant temp reading using a scan tool, not the dash. If the DME is getting erroneous coolant temp data, it will act on it as though it was real.

Welcome to RennTech You need to do some electrical diagnostics here; I would start by pulling the vent valve and checking it both electrically and for function. The valve itself can jam, causing the short. If the valve checks out, you need to start testing and possibly tracing the wire going to the valve; one or both may be shorted.

Have you tested fuel pressures and delivery rates?