JFP in PA

I have to ask a question: What is the size of the center bolt nut (in MM) that was on the original bearing? Is it 22 MM?

You pictures are not showing, try that again with photos of everything you are referring to.

Glad you got the cam locking tool in place, but does this mean you do not have the TDC pin in place? If so, you need to address that fact before removing the tensioners.

TSB's are available to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of this page.

Most full synthetics have a published shelf life between 3 and 5 years, which is dictated by the type of additive packages employed. I would suggest you contact Gibbs racing for their storage recommendations and shelf life specs.

Thanks for the fast response JFP - the LN Engineering instructions are the first ones I read but they are too high level and do not say which cams I need to lock and where - see the extract from their instructions below. I also do not understand the part about "Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine". I need a more detailed set of instructions (pref with pics) that show exactly which cams to lock and where, and preferably that also show pics of the IMS to crank tensioner and examples of what a worn one would look like. EPS did a very good set of instructions for the Eternal IMS fix, but it is not for the LN bearing. Extract from LN instructions: "6. Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel. 7. Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner and verify or correct camshaft timing." It is sounding like your cam timing is already off if you cannot get the cam locking tool in place. Try rotating the engine 360 degrees (clockwise only) by hand and see if the cams line up better. If they do not, you may be facing a cam allocation procedure.

The first thing you need to do is stop reading anything but the LN IMS retrofit procedure. A lot of other "shortcut" methods have been posted, but most tend only to lead people into dangerous places with expensive results. If you do not have the LN procedure, you can find it here : http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf This is the only procedure I know of that works first time, every time. Do not vary from it, and you will not have any problems.

I'd start by pulling the aftermarket top relay and installing an OEM unit to see if the top opens. You can borrow one from a buddy for the test.

If you are referring to the flexible lines attached to the fuel rail itself, the answer is no. Porsche does not list that line separately.

If none of the specs are ferrous, you should be alright; if the cam deviation values get too far out of line, the car would code before anything happens.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success. Thanks JFP. Is there any electrical contact lubricant recommended for the spring connectors on the central electrode at the coil pack outlet where it connects to the HT shaft? None is needed in that area.

Does your alternator have a free wheeling pulley or a fixed pulley?

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success.

We always use anti seize on all plugs, regardless of brand. Some manufacturer's do claim to have a coating for this purpose, but I know if we always apply a thin coating, we will not have a problem down the road. We have used NGK plugs as well, and we still put a dab of anti seize on them. Dissimilar metals can lead to difficult to repair thread damage on the alloy component. Always better safe than sorry.

They have a point about sodium not being a normally found additive in Mobil 1, but knowing how many oil blenders are playing with their formulations, that may have changed, which is why it is important to periodically include a virgin sample for a bench mark. Oil formulations are not cast in stone.

Power steering pumps can make a racket when they are coming apart. Take off the serpentine belt and turn it by hand, you should feel it of that is the source of the noise. They also tend to leak when the bearings are going bad. If it is the pump, you will need to replace it as it cannot be rebuilt easily. You will also need to flush the fluid in the system as it could be full of debris, which can kill the rack as well as the new pump.

For the coil packs, use some dielectric grease (any auto parts outlet). As for the plugs, the Beru plus are fine, we have also used Denso Iridium's with good success. Yes, use anti seize, but sparingly, on the treads.

Yes, the Durametric can read cam deviation values for you. The small chain paddles can be done with the engine is the car, although it is a bit fiddly to do as the cam covers have to come off. You might want to ask the shop doing your IMS if they can put together a "packaged deal" for you to do both if it is required, as it could be more economical to address both at the same time rather than taking the car apart twice.

What you need to do is check the cam deviation values with the engine fully warmed up; the spec is +/- 6 degrees, if the car is outside that range it needs attention, if it is still in range it can wait a bit. And I would not put off retrofitting the IMS.

If you Google "Drive off Assistant Failure" you will find more than a few people with this issue. Unfortunately, for some reason, this system cannot be disabled (to my knowledge). The system is also very complicated as it has to know what gear the car is in, is the car moving, is it on an angle greater than 5 degrees, etc.; so there are a lot of sensors involved. I think you are going to need either a dealer or an indie with a PIWIS to help sort this out.

Hard to tell without actually seeing them, but as I mentioned above, the most common sources are the wear pads on the chain paddles. As your son's car is a five chain motor, they are probably from the small wear pads between the cams on the cylinder heads, which are easier and cheaper to replace when the time comes.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Something you need to understand from the outset is that if you have had an IMS failure, it didn't just start, but has been shredding metal and dumping it into the oil for some time, so the debris is everywhere inside the engine, not just in the sump. As such, any shop worth its salt would look at the sump and oil filter contents and tell you that it is already too late to consider a retrofit. In addition, a common side effect of losing the IMS is piston to valve contact, which results in bent valves at a minimum, or worse: From experience in my shop, I am sorry to tell you that if you have suffered an IMS failure, at a minimum your engine will have to come out and apart, if for no other reason than to check all the components and have everything properly cleaned of the fine metal that is most likely everywhere in the engine. From time to time, someone posts about having an IMS failure and then replacing it and doing some oil flushes to cleanout the engine. Again, from direct experience, the number of times that process is actually successful can be counted on one hand with several fingers left over. Usually, 50-75 mile down the road, the engine simply grenades from that one spec of ferrous grit that ultimately found a rod or crank bearing and tore it to shreds. And all the money spent is wasted as well. To have someone pull your car apart, replace the IMS and do some oil flushes is going to cost a considerable amount of money, and has little (if any) chance of succeeding. You would be better off pulling the engine, taking it apart and seeing if it can actually be saved, or needs to be replaced.

The dye can remain in the engine indefinitely, it is harmless.

There are two "drains" on the cooling system, one is an actual plug (photo below) and the other is a "weep hole" which is beneath the water pump pulley itself. If a "crust" develops from leakge at the weep hole drain (second photo), the seal and bearing in the water pump are failing and need to be replaced.