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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not really, like their sister companies VW & Audi, you will find parts from the US, Poland, Japan, and just about everywhere else worth mentioning. Just a normal day in 21st century auto manufacturing.
  2. Porsche sources parts from all over the world.
  3. Both codes can also be caused by wiring problems, and as you used "universal" fit sensors, I would start there. I would also have to say that we never use this type of sensor in the shop both because of the probability of having this type of issue, and because the correct fit units do not cost that much more.
  4. Correct, but take a lesson from another recent poster here that had a 2004 996 C4S which should have been a smaller and replaceable IMS bearing, so he went out and purchased everything he needed to do the IMS swap, including the LN bearing kit. But when he took the car apart, he found the oversized non serviceable design bearing in the engine, because the engine was a factory replacement (bore an engine number with "AT" in it, which stands for "Austauschmotor" or replacement engine in German), leaving him stuck with the expensive LN kit, and the car all apart: When you are looking at these cars, particularly with the intent of buying one specifically to do an IMS retrofit, you really need to understand what you are looking at or you can make an expensive mistake. In the case of an 05 car, if it still has the original engine in it, it could still go either way, and you need to pull it apart to find out what you are dealing with.
  5. 2005 was the transitional year, some engines carried the smaller diameter single row bearing, others the non serviceable large diameter bearing. Unfortunately, there is no way of knowing which one is in a given engine without taking it apart and looking as all of the so-called methods (build date, engine numbers, VIN's, etc.) have proven to be unreliable by direct experience. All 2006 cars will carry the non serviceable large bearing, as will any factory replacement engines, which will have either "AT" or "X" in their engine numbers.
  6. The part numbers I listed are what are in the Porsche system as replacements for the car you described. They also list a new complete transaxle assembly (722-270-060-0), which retails for a tick under $17K.
  7. It is sometimes amazing how few "professionals" do not know that these systems can go to sleep on you.
  8. Two are listed, 996-300-020-07, and 996-300-020-37.
  9. You are going to find some fine ferrous material on the plug with every oil change, that is not at all unusual. It is also not unusual for the first change after installing the magnetic plug to have a bit more than normal as it is trying to clean up what was already built up in the engine. We see similar results when people switch over to the spin on and use a Filter Mag, the first oil change build up is always the worst:
  10. That is what we are here for. Glad you got it sorted out, now go enjoy the car.
  11. Because the chains are running somewhat slack, the cam timing (read cam deviation values) are probably well off at the moment, which will cause the engine to run poorly.
  12. It is the tensioners, it would have been a good idea to pre fill them by pumping them up in a container of oil before reinstalling them, but they will pump up in the engine after it runs for a bit. Just don't drive the car or rev the engine until it settles down.
  13. Porsche's comment has to do with the type and amount of anti seize used; some have insulating properties. At the shop, we use anti seize (a small dab) on every plug we install, and have done so for many, many years; and we have never had a plug misfire because of it, or gall the cylinder heads when removed. That said, we have also seen plugs without anti seize that were left in the engine for a lot of miles come out of the cylinder heads with the alloy threads still attached. Your comment about washing the compound off also intrigues me, how did you remove the compound in the cylinder head plug holes? Because if you did not remove it, you still had anti seize on the cylinder head threads, just less of it.......
  14. Mike Focke complied a useful list of sources on his website: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages
  15. Selling the car as a "roller" is usually a losing proposition and should only be the choice of desperation. You are going to have to spend some money on a replacement from a wreck, but it is usually the lowest cost pathway to getting the car back on the road. Shop around for a good used engine in your area, and figure another 2-3K to get it back in one piece.
  16. Not that I'm aware of; we go off UOA's from customer's cars, and they look very good, particularly its ability to stay in grade and retain a high level of ZDDP over miles. We have also had good feed back from customer's concerning quieter starts with the second generation of the DT40 on cars that had been noisy on other oils. I do know from other postings that Jake and his crew put a lot of time and effort into its development and subsequent improvement.
  17. So no reason to do preventative maintenance before one of the sensor codes? I've always understood that as the "pre" sensor wears out, the mixture starts richening up and fuel efficiency declines.. Just trying to stay ahead of the curve. We have seen some O2 sensors fail in 25K miles, and others still be running fine at 250K miles, so I have no idea what a "preemptive" sweet spot should be. And long before you would see a measurable mileage change, the car will code; the system is designed to behave that way. Besides which, O2 sensors are anything but cheap.
  18. When the vehicle codes, indicating that the sensor is failing,
  19. While there are many fine oils on the market, you will be fine with the DT40, it is the only oil on the market that was specifically developed around the M96/97 engine platforms.
  20. Judging by the fact that most inquiries we get about factory TPMS systems centers around how to turn them off, I would say a lot of people wished they didn't have them.
  21. Yes, you want to remove the black seal that surrounds the center bolt on the IMS bearing. In doing so, the oil mist that is circulating in that area will constantly lubricate and cool the bearing. You do not need to apply anything to the bearing.
  22. The only factory IMS bearing that used the 22 MM center bolt was the last design, which unfortunately is the non serviceable unit. While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it. We have several customers running this way without any issues. A couple of "take a way's" for those reading this thread and thinking about doing an IMS retrofit; first always check the engine number for the presence of either "AT" or "X", which indicates a replacement engine, which could mean a non serviceable IMS bearing. Second, and this is a big one, unless you know for a fact the engine is pre 2000, or 2002 to 2004 (so you have a reasonable chance of which style bearing is in there), do not buy the IMS bearing before you take the car apart. Many vendors of the LN kits will not take them back or even exchange them. While you can always recoup what you spent for the LN tool kit, pre purchasing the IMS bearing can be hazardous to your wallet, as they make very expensive paper weights.
  23. And I'll bet the center bolt nut is 22MM, and you are looking at a non serviceable bearing.
  24. The "AT" is the number means this is a factory reman replacement engine. Sorry.
  25. That is exactly were I was going. I'd also check the engine number for either "AT" or "X" in the sequence.
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