JFP in PA

As it damage is within the tread width area, it can be repaired.

Please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

The budget range for an IMS retrofit on your car is actually a fairly wide number for several reasons. As it is a 2005 car, it could either be carrying the single row serviceable (read replaceable) IMS bearing, or it could have the oversized last design, which cannot be changed out without totally disassembling the engine. If the car is a serviceable single row (which can only be determined by pulling the trans out and looking), you have the option of going with the LN single row ceramic hybrid bearing, the newer LN "Pro" dual row ceramic hybrid replacement for the single row, or the LN IMS Solution, which replaces the OEM IMS with an oil fed solid bearing design, and which is the only true permanent replacement. For budget numbers, assume you will be putting in a new clutch at the same time, and replacing the RMS, regardless of which bearing is chosen. For the LN single row, or the newer Pro, a good budget number would be in the $2-3K range, all in. Moving to the Solution, the number is going to rise to $3-4K range due to the additional labor and considerably higher parts costs. You should also be aware that if you went with the LN Pro bearing, the shop has to have the special Faultless installation tooling to install it, it should not be attempted with the tools used for the conventional bearings. If the car is carrying the last design that cannot be retrofitted without engine disassembly, realistically all you can do is to remove the rear oil seal on the OEM bearing and reassemble the car. This would have you back in the $1.5-2K range. While shopping around on something this expensive is usually a good idea, you should really be concerned about how the shop is equipped, and how many retrofits they have done. You really do not want to have someone that is less expensive, but inexperienced or poorly equipped to handle the job.

Going to be a dealer item, board sponsor Sunset Porsche, or use their online search system http://www.porschepartshub.com/

Daytime running lights are programmable using the PIWIS diagnostics system. The reference you have is how they are set using the PIWIS.

Glad we could be of help. For future reference, there is an outfit (http://liftbars.com/) that makes lift bars which insert in the factory lift points and that allow you to pickup the entire side of your car at one time, and which have a unique way to allow the bar to pivot on a common jack stand without slipping: We have no affiliation with this firm, but a customer had these at the track and they worked well and were very solidly made. Because they can raise the entire car fairly quickly, and get it up pretty high as well, the look like something a serious DIY'er without a lift might consider.

That look like what you need. You might want to also try board sponsor Sunset Porsche (http://www.porschepartshub.com/) for pricing.

I cannot see the images you posted. We normally pull vacuum for 30 min., then test hold it for another 15. As for oil, the entire system should hold 195-/+ 15 ml of the ND 8 fluid. I'm not at the shop at the moment, but if memory serves, the OEM service manual set has a list of the amounts of oil contained in each component for make up purposes.

Do not let the gas simply escape to the environment, that is both environmentally unfriendly, and in many states outright illegal. Take it to shop that can properly recover the gas for recycling, You should not have to replace the dryer as long as you keep the system closed as much as possible while replacing the damaged lines.

As long as your AC system is shut off, nothing will happen, but your AC system will probably not function properly when it gets hot outside, and you could also be placing the compressor at risk running it this way. The system needs to have the 134A removed and captured, the damaged line(s) replaced, and the system recharged and tested.

Glad the outcome was a good one, nothing like some diagnostic testing to confirm or deny a problem.

Guys, it does not matter one iota when the car was built. We have seen very early 2000 cars with single row bearings, and others with dual row bearings. For that matter, I personally own two 2001 cars since they were new, one is a single row, the other a dual row. 2000-2001 is a total crap shoot as to what bearing you will find, build dates for either the car or the engine have never proven useful for this purpose, which is why you need to take them apart before you really know what you are dealing with.

That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems. Surely no different to putting a load resister across the LED though? Effectively fooling the canbus into thinking there is a filament bulb in place. Do you know if the left/right brake lights are monitored separately or is the message I am getting because either/both are 'out'? You are correct concerning adding a resistor to the light circuits, but it needs to match the LED to the factory light's resistance. I do not believe they are monitored separately, as you get the same indication if one or both are out.

That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems.

I have no idea if that would help.

LED's have very little internal resistance, which is why they are so bright on the same voltage; some manufacturer's of aftermarket kits offer add on resistor kits specifically to address this problem. The reason you get the error on the brake lights is they are a mandated safety system, so they are monitored. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and see if they offer a kit for this issue.

Closed

Quite often, putting LED lights on a vehicle that was not so equipped from the factory results in error codes because the LED's do no exhibit the same circuit resistance as the OEM lights, making the system think a bulb is burned out. this can usually be overcome by adding the correct type of resistor to the electrical circuit.

Please do not double post, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.

The DME should be in your rear boot, behind a trim panel.

When working on or around air bags, caution needs to be your main concern, at close range these things can really hurt you. Power down the system by disconnecting the battery, then waiting several min. before starting. Never work with the air bag facing directly towards you, stay off to one side, make sure you are grounded before touching any air bag connectors so that you don't static discharge into the system accidently (we like to use grounding wrist straps to prevent this).

If you have never done it before, it never hurts to ask. ;)

You will know it instantly if the dye is in the oil. Take some of the dye itself and hit it with the UV light, it should light up a brilliant, nearly glowing color, this is what you are looking for.

One of the things a good PPI does is to record the VIN and the engine numbers, and check the latter to see if it makes sense to the car (year, displacement, etc.), as well as checking to see if it is a replacement. Not that long ago, we had an immaculate 996 in the shop for a PPI, which turned out to be carrying a 2.7L Boxster engine. Needless to say, the sale did not go through.

Pull a sample of your oil and check it with a UV light in a darkened room. If there is no sign of the dye in the oil, drive it like you stole it.