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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    First of all, yes, ZDDP will shorten the life of the cats, but the larger argument is by how much. Because the EPA has the OEM's on the hook to replace the converters under warranty for up to 8 years or 80K miles, they lobbied the EPA to force lowering the ZDDP levels in an attempt to help them get off that hook. Unfortunately, ZDDP is the best anti wear additive available for engine oils, which means that low ZDDP oils allow engine wear that ZDDP would have prevented. Best part of this argument is that without very sophisticated laboratory analysis, it is not possible to tell if ZDDP or crap gas additives were the cause of cat failure. While nearly no one reveals that actual ZDDP levels in oils these days, UOA's have shown that DT40 after more than 7K miles still has more ZDDP remaining than M1 has fresh out of the bottle. Perhaps a better way to look at the argument is that you as the car's owner need to make a choice between replacing the cats, which only requires some hand tools, or potentially having to rebuild or replace your engine, which is both more expensive than the cats and requires a lot more tooling. I know where I and my customer's fall on that call. You also need to note that if your cats do actually go bad, the car will code and tell you long before you go anywhere near CA Smog.
  2. JFP in PA
    Probably a leak somewhere in the EVAP system. Do you think its a leak or is it the fuel line vent valve?? Also, i understand why the sound goes away when I step on the gas, but, why on earth would it stop when I turn the AC off? That makes no sense to me. JFP, can you shed any light on that for me?? Thanks Buddy! Because of the location you indicated, it can only be one of two things: The EVAP system, which is just below the fuel filler door area, under the wheel well liner; or possibly the AC coil in the heater box, which is adjacent to the EVAP system behind the firewall. You need to get a stethoscope and try an isolate which one it is, By far, most of the noises we see in this area are from the EVAP system (stuck valves - there are multiple, leaking hoses, canister itself, etc..). As this would be a vacuum leak, it will change volume or vanish with RPM movement.
  3. JFP in PA
    Our customers have not had any problems with the combination.
  4. JFP in PA
    If you have both the adaptor and filter to look at, you will find that the adaptor fits nearly flush into the current canister's opening (just a thin lip protruding), and when you add the spin on filter, the combination is actually very slightly shorter than the OEM unit. You will be fine.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome:
  6. JFP in PA
    Probably a leak somewhere in the EVAP system.
  7. JFP in PA
    We have changed the filters without any problems.
  8. JFP in PA
    Sure, why not? When you change the filter, you only lose the oil in the canister, which is less than a liter, so be prepared to top it up.
  9. JFP in PA
    As Silver_TT pointed out, you have a now rare and very precision built, low production numbers engine, so some of the parts are not going to be cheap; but even so, I would not hesitate to replace that tensioner and everything else on that chain side. We regularly see a number of these cars, many of which get the daylights beat out of them on a regular basis; and I have never seen this type of issue with the Mezger engines.
  10. JFP in PA
    You will only be changing out the electrical section of the ignition, so no reprograming is required, just a very small screw driver.
  11. JFP in PA
    Yes, but it gets worse. If you look at the picture of the bearing on the site, in the upper right corner of the photo is a metal punch and a replacement oil pump drive shaft with a slot ground into it. While they don't mention it in the linked instructions, they want you to take a punch and hit it with a hammer to put a very tightly controlled size hole in the plug that keeps oil out of the IMS shaft on the oil pump end, then replace the OEM pump drive shaft with the one that has a slot ground in it to allow oil into the IMS shaft to "pressure" lubricate the IMS bearing. Problems here are that there is no way you are going to use a hammer and punch to put a very specific tolerance hole in anything, and then you are left with a partially flooded IMS shaft, which is going to side load the bearings. Add to that you are replacing the already failure prone investment cast oil pump drive with one that has been weakened further by grinding a slot in it. When the oil pump drive snaps in one of these engines, it is all over as you instantly lose all oil delivery, there is no coming back from that failure. The entire concept leaves me weak.
  12. JFP in PA
    1) Yes, definitely. 2) Never heard of it doing that, but if the code is not returning, I would not be concerned. 3) No, a failing CPS will often not code when they are bad. When the sensor fails, the DME simply fails to see the engine turning over, and shuts down the fuel and ignition systems, thinking that the engine has stopped. They are also famous for being fine when cold, then acting up when they get warm as well.
  13. JFP in PA
    This design has been discussed multiple times on various websites, and there are some questions about the method used to create a passage for how it gets oil, and the long term effects of running the shaft partially full of oil.
  14. JFP in PA
    I think you are misunderstanding terminology here. The Pelican chain, "without a master link", is an endless chain that requires pulling the engine out and apart to change it, as does the factory chain. It is also not uncommon for some parts to fit many different brand vehicles. In any case, having worked on Turbo's for many years, I really don't see how you are going to change one of these chains, even with one with a master link, without pulling the engine. These cars have very restricted space around the engines, making pulling the engine a real time saver for many such repairs.
  15. JFP in PA
    I don't know if it is anything in the sensor design, as some seem to go on forever and others only last a limited time. I do know we have had better luck with the factory units than with after market.
  16. JFP in PA
    Yes, it is possible. Because of all of the electronics on these cars, spurious voltage excursions can lead to all sorts of weird issues. The DME can basically "loose its mind" when it does not have the operating voltage it expects, as can many of the various sensors on the engine. You can test the alternator output with something as simple as a digital multimeter. At idle, the system should be around 14V or so. A load test on the alternator would monitor the voltage output as the electrical load on the system increases, which would give you additional data, but a simple output voltage would be a good starting point.
  17. JFP in PA
    No. a load test for the alternator is a dynamic process; with the car running, the system ramps up an electrical load on the system as shows how it responds. AutoZone testing is more for "it works or it doesn't work", like a light bulb.
  18. JFP in PA
    Batteries should get warm, but not hot, which is usually a sign of trouble. I would load test the battery and the charging system as spurious MIL lights are often voltage related. What's the best way to do that You need a system load tester to do this:
  19. JFP in PA
    Batteries should get warm, but not hot, which is usually a sign of trouble. I would load test the battery and the charging system as spurious MIL lights are often voltage related.
  20. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: If you have the car's service records, I would go over them to see when everything was serviced to get an idea where the car currently is. If you only have the most recent record, I would consider the following: Oil & filter, air filter, brake fluid flush, coolant replacement (if it was not done at most recent service), serpentine belt (plus check all the pulley/tensioners), front diff (if not done at last service), and full visual inspection of all running gear.
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: There are a variety of things that can stop the ignition system, such as a faulty crank position sensor, or even the car's alarm module. You are going to need additional diagnostics, preferably with a Porsche specific scan tool, to help discern where to begin.
  22. JFP in PA
    I'm afraid that most of what you will find by searching about aftermarket warranty pay outs on these cars goes more in the negative direction, and often on things vastly more mundane than losing the engine to an IMS failure.
  23. JFP in PA
    Coil packs can read within resistance range and still break down with heat or under electrical load, causing a miss. But being out of range is never a good indicator. Did you run cam deviation values before and after the IMS retrofit?
  24. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but there is not magical "reset" button on the vehicle, you need a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric) to analyze and reset certain error codes like PSM or ABS on these cars. Most newer cars are this way, requiring a specialized tool to reset certain "restricted" code areas. That said, sudden multiple MIL lights are often the sign of an electrical issue, usually low voltage. I would have the battery and charging system load tested by any credible shop to make sure both the battery and alternator are working correctly.
  25. JFP in PA
    It is very difficult to flat out guessing what exactly is wrong without the codes.
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