JFP in PA

You have a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.

A PPI is always possible, and are should never be done by the selling dealers, but by an independent mechanic of your choice. I also remain circumspect of this car's "extraordinary bargain" pricing, to me that is a red flag. Every bargain priced Turbo we have seen was priced that way for a reason..........

If you have no record of it being serviced, and the car has 90K on it, you are way past (2X) when we would have serviced it. You rev fluctuation could be slight slippage in the converter or gearbox. Do a fluid and filter change and let us know how you made out.

When was the last time the Tip was serviced?

It could be either the cam position sensor (which you can swap sides to test) or the VarioCam unit it self.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P0018 - Crankshaft position with respect to bank 2 intake camshaft. The code is telling you that the relationship between the crankshaft position and that of the intake cam on bank 2 is not correct. If you have verified that the cam allocation on bank 2 is correct, and that you now have full compression pressure in all of the cylinders, then I would suspect the either the cam or crank position sensor is bad, and would also suspect that it is the cam sensor; so I would start there.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You should never consider spending this kind of money without getting a full pre purchase inspection done at an independent Porsche mechanic of your choice. While the PPI will cost you some money, a good one will spot any defects that need attention and provide you with a repair estimate, which you should deduct from the car's selling price. A quality PPI has saved a lot of buyer's from potential disasters, and will provide you with price negotiation leverage in your favor.

Not really; the CV's are "loaded" when the car is in gear, and unloaded when coasting, so I would still check them.

It could be one of the CV joints on the axles, but I would also look at the front motor mount, and consider the possibility of a gearbox bearing. It is going to take some diagnostics to isolate which one it is. The CV's should be easy, look for excessive play and torn boots, the front motor mound I would look for tearing or settling of the mount, the gear box is going to take a bit more looking.

As a class, 10W-40 oils tend to have higher film strengths than lower weight alternatives, which can afford better engine component protection, and they tend to hold up to high heat/high shear conditions better as well. Oil change intervals stem from two points: Realistically, the ideal time to replace the oil is when the additive package is falling off. This has traditionally been measured by running TBN values on the used oil and trying to catch the oil at a 50% or so fall off in TBN values from that of the virgin oil; but as most people do not regularly or even frequently run used oil analysis, the safe approach is to change the oil more frequently than the factory recommends. The second reason to change the oil more frequently is to allow you to check for the presence of metallic particulates in the drain oil and filter, which would be a sign of something going south. LN's ceramic hybrid bearings are sealed on the shaft side, but open on the flywheel side. This allows the oil mist in the engine to lubricate the bearing. Without a doubt, changing the IMS while you have the car apart would be an excellent idea. Most of the cost of an IMS retrofit is the labor to simply get at it; with the car apart for a clutch, it is the perfect time. I would also update the RMS at the same time, and would suggest doing your AOS as well a it is out in the open with the trans out of the car, and a simple job to replace. Thanks JFP, but, I think you kind of missed on my question, I appreciate the explanation of the oil, but, my question is IF THE IMS IS A SEALED BEARING, WHY WOULD THE TYPE, VISCOSITY or OIL CHANGE INTERVAL HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT? On this very forum, multiple people have referenced using 10/40 to help lengthen the life of the IMS Bearing. If its sealed from the engine oil, why would that be true? Its like saying change your engine oil more frequently for longer life span of your wheel bearings. Do you know what I mean? In the case of the LN, if Oil "mist" is hitting it, then I get it, but, the stock bearing is completely sealed, correct? Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be argumentative, I am just trying to understand. Thanks, B Simple, because the seals on the factory bearings harden and fail, allowing the internal grease to seep out but without allowing enough oil in to properly lubricate the bearings, which results in the balls galling and it failing. LN Engineering used to have a good explanation (with photos) on their website. Nearly every factory IMS we pull had absolutely no grease left in them, even though the seals still looked good. The oil weight choice has to do with better protection of all the bearing surfaces in the engine than the factory recommended weights, and less start up noise, and not just for the IMS bearing. And as I mentioned, the more frequent changes are also for overall engine protection, and possible early detection of metal in the oil, an early warning sign for an IMS failure.

As a class, 10W-40 oils tend to have higher film strengths than lower weight alternatives, which can afford better engine component protection, and they tend to hold up to high heat/high shear conditions better as well. Oil change intervals stem from two points: Realistically, the ideal time to replace the oil is when the additive package is falling off. This has traditionally been measured by running TBN values on the used oil and trying to catch the oil at a 50% or so fall off in TBN values from that of the virgin oil; but as most people do not regularly or even frequently run used oil analysis, the safe approach is to change the oil more frequently than the factory recommends. The second reason to change the oil more frequently is to allow you to check for the presence of metallic particulates in the drain oil and filter, which would be a sign of something going south. LN's ceramic hybrid bearings are sealed on the shaft side, but open on the flywheel side. This allows the oil mist in the engine to lubricate the bearing. Without a doubt, changing the IMS while you have the car apart would be an excellent idea. Most of the cost of an IMS retrofit is the labor to simply get at it; with the car apart for a clutch, it is the perfect time. I would also update the RMS at the same time, and would suggest doing your AOS as well a it is out in the open with the trans out of the car, and a simple job to replace.

The red clip is for an entirely different purpose, so don't concern yourself about it. If you have the roof all the way up, and latched, I'm not sure you can easily by pass the roof position sensors, so I would focus on getting the cables fixed or if necessary, replaced.

Have the battery and charging system load tested, which will confirm their current condition. I would also have the car's alarm system scanned to see if there is an obvious fault that is keeping the car from locking.

"Technical Service Bulletin". These are notifications from Porsche to the dealers that there has been a change or update on the vehicle. Any dealer should be able to run your VIN and check for any outstanding TSB's.

Please post in English if possible. Try this: "can someone give me a tip on the fault codes P0082 porsche cayenne turbo 2011 in which the solution?"

First of all, it is always helpful to provide the car's year and model in these inquiries. Assuming it is a Cayenne: P0421 Catalytic conversion, bank 1 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty . P0431 Catalytic conversion, bank 2 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty. A little light reading on the subject of O2 readings and state of the cats (from a Boxster diagnostics manual, but the technology is the same): You need to go back to your Durametric system and pull up the graphical display of the before and after cat voltages to see if they are following each other; if they are, you need new cats. Thanks for the info, sorry it is a 2004 Base model, it says that on the excel file but people might miss it. The problem is I don't think Durametric can do the upstream O2's unless I'm missing something, I can't find that selection to include in the analysis graphing, do you know for sure it is there? Positive, it should be in the actual values under the engine sections. These curves were generated off a 996 with a bad cat on one side using the Durametric software:

First of all, it is always helpful to provide the car's year and model in these inquiries. Assuming it is a Cayenne: P0421 Catalytic conversion, bank 1 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty . P0431 Catalytic conversion, bank 2 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty. A little light reading on the subject of O2 readings and state of the cats (from a Boxster diagnostics manual, but the technology is the same): You need to go back to your Durametric system and pull up the graphical display of the before and after cat voltages to see if they are following each other; if they are, you need new cats.

The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure.

To remove the seal, you need to go through all the steps required to do an IMS retrofit (eninge locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.), and then simply use a tool like a dental pick to pop the seal out:

As it damage is within the tread width area, it can be repaired.

Please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

The budget range for an IMS retrofit on your car is actually a fairly wide number for several reasons. As it is a 2005 car, it could either be carrying the single row serviceable (read replaceable) IMS bearing, or it could have the oversized last design, which cannot be changed out without totally disassembling the engine. If the car is a serviceable single row (which can only be determined by pulling the trans out and looking), you have the option of going with the LN single row ceramic hybrid bearing, the newer LN "Pro" dual row ceramic hybrid replacement for the single row, or the LN IMS Solution, which replaces the OEM IMS with an oil fed solid bearing design, and which is the only true permanent replacement. For budget numbers, assume you will be putting in a new clutch at the same time, and replacing the RMS, regardless of which bearing is chosen. For the LN single row, or the newer Pro, a good budget number would be in the $2-3K range, all in. Moving to the Solution, the number is going to rise to $3-4K range due to the additional labor and considerably higher parts costs. You should also be aware that if you went with the LN Pro bearing, the shop has to have the special Faultless installation tooling to install it, it should not be attempted with the tools used for the conventional bearings. If the car is carrying the last design that cannot be retrofitted without engine disassembly, realistically all you can do is to remove the rear oil seal on the OEM bearing and reassemble the car. This would have you back in the $1.5-2K range. While shopping around on something this expensive is usually a good idea, you should really be concerned about how the shop is equipped, and how many retrofits they have done. You really do not want to have someone that is less expensive, but inexperienced or poorly equipped to handle the job.

Going to be a dealer item, board sponsor Sunset Porsche, or use their online search system http://www.porschepartshub.com/

Daytime running lights are programmable using the PIWIS diagnostics system. The reference you have is how they are set using the PIWIS.

Glad we could be of help. For future reference, there is an outfit (http://liftbars.com/) that makes lift bars which insert in the factory lift points and that allow you to pickup the entire side of your car at one time, and which have a unique way to allow the bar to pivot on a common jack stand without slipping: We have no affiliation with this firm, but a customer had these at the track and they worked well and were very solidly made. Because they can raise the entire car fairly quickly, and get it up pretty high as well, the look like something a serious DIY'er without a lift might consider.