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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    IWIS are suppliers to Porsche and many other OEM's: http://www.iwis.de/en/engine-systems/company/reference-customers/
  2. JFP in PA
    First of all, there are a large number of people that dislike LAD, but most do so because of their pricing, not their parts. They do tend to be on the high side of pricing, but sometimes they are the only ones with a needed part. That said, the used parts market is always a bit of a crap shoot on used transmissions. When a breaker buys a wreck from an insurance company, there is literally no way for them to know the condition of the unit. And, while the trans may have been working perfectly before the crash, the accident could have changed that. So they offer "warranties" on the units (if it don't work, we will give you another to try) in an attempt to make the purchaser more comfortable with buying a used one. The dismantler knows that a small percentage of them are going to be bad for one reason or another, so the installation is their "quality control" mechanism to sort out the good from the bad. While that may sound ridiculous to the buyer, it really is the dismantler's only option as they have no other realistic method to test the units before selling them. That said, what I would suggest is to install the replacement and test it; if it works well, I would go back to LAD and politely ask for some relief on the extra costs you incurred because the first one was a dud. As we live in the world of the internet, they may just surprise you and concede. They really don't need an unhappy parts buyer ripping them a new one online over the issue.
  3. JFP in PA
    Great point.
  4. JFP in PA
    No or low coolant would not stop the fuel pump.
  5. JFP in PA
    The thorax airbags are in the seat side bolsters, so I would Imagine that you need to get under the leather upholstery to get at the harness.
  6. JFP in PA
    Not very good. Many of them are actually old and out of date Durametric systems that are no longer supported, the rest are a total unknown, and there have been reports of some of them actually causing problems.
  7. JFP in PA
    You need a Porsche specific scan tool, such as the PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric software; nothing else will work.
  8. JFP in PA
    MM could have switched the DME or immobilizers between cars, which would leave the car unable to start. The crank position sensor would shut down the fuel pump if it were bad or disconnected. PST II was Porsche's diagnostic system when the car was built, it was replaced by the PIWIS and then the PIWIS II, the most current version. I do not believe the tool you have would be of help in this, and I know the Durametric (which cannot do the type of coding required to match the immobilizer and DME) won't be of much help either. You need the Porsche tool, of which the current version is lease only at around $20K for the first year.
  9. JFP in PA
    I think you have kind of gone over center trying to fix this. If the immobilizer was cooked, that was all that needed to be replaced, but to do that the car needs to be coded to match by either a PST II or PIWIS system. Trying to replace everything, and particularly not knowing if they are even a matched set, is only compounding the potential issues.
  10. JFP in PA
    There should only be voltage at the pump is the car's DME and immobilizer have "shaken hands", which it sounds like is not happening. As Motor Meister where well known butchers, they could have done just about anything to the car. As a first step, I would get the car towed to a shop with either a PST II or PIWIS system and have the electronics checked to make sure they are communicating, without which you are going no where.
  11. JFP in PA
    Only the crank position sensor will prevent the engine from running.
  12. JFP in PA
    Some times the O-ring gets caught when screwing in the canister, and that puts a cut in it, which is all it takes for a leak.
  13. JFP in PA
    As you will most likely end up buying another filter to get the o-ring, just put the new filter in.....................
  14. JFP in PA
    Flooding the clutch area with gear oil. If you have over filled it, just remove the correct lower fill plug and let the excess drain out to the correct level, then reinstall the fill plug.
  15. JFP in PA
    What I hadn't realised until reading your post and the Pelican Forum thread linked above (cross section through sump) is that the bottom part of the IMS bearing sits within the engine oil. Therefore, oil washing and pickup will always occur with a full sump. This will be even more the case if the car is often parked front down or under braking. When the engine is running, there is an oil "mist" everywhere inside the sump and cam chains areas, which is more than enough lubrication for the IMS.
  16. JFP in PA
    P0336 indicates an open circuit for the crank position sensor, so yes, you need a new one.
  17. JFP in PA
    That is the one I would have expected as well, but the trans should only hold a tad over 3L, so something has to be different.
  18. JFP in PA
    The car should only take around 3 liters. Does your gearbox look like this (two fill plugs marked in green)? If it does, you are supposed to be filling through the one to the right (the lower one) in this picture:
  19. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car? 2003 Porsche 996 Cabriolet Underneath the rear package shelf, there are multiple electronic modules that switch on with the key, you can probably tap into one of them, just make sure the new unit you are adding does not overload the fuse on that circuit, and also has an inline fuse of its own.
  20. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car?
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing.
  22. JFP in PA
    You must have an interesting way of draining the car as most can only get about 85% of the contents out without considerable effort. And as the Evans literature say that residual water will break down their coolant, that presents an issue. As you sound like yours is a turbo car, I can say that I cringe at the use of more glue to repair a well known issue of glued in fitting failures on these cars. We pull the engines and replace all of the factory fittings with new weld in replacements, which are permanent fixes. Some shops also have used pinning kits the mechanically lock in the fittings, by we prefer to make them permanent. Gluing them back in and using a wonder coolant is not the accepted answer, particularly when most tracks here will not allow one of these cars out on track unless the fittings have been either pinned or welded; and many also now do not allow cars on the track that have anything but water in them for safety reasons.
  23. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: This product has never made any sense to me. In order to use it, you have to drain the existing coolant, then run multiple flushes with a special liquid designed to remove all traces of remaining water based coolant, followed by blowing air through the system to fully dry it. Then you charge the system with some very expensive (~$45/gallon) waterless coolant. By the time you are done with all this, between shop labor and parts you have spent nearly as much as several normal coolant drains, flushes and refills; which probably more than the car would normally see in its lifetime. Add to that, on fully aftermarket instrumented cars, we have seen very little, if any, cooling improvements. This product continues to look more like a solution in search of a problem. In the shop, the most common coolant related question we get is "What can I top my system up with?". This is because of the Porsche's propensity to leak coolant due to failing water pumps, surge tank. issues, bad caps, etc. These problems do not go away with waterless coolant, so every time you need to open up the system to fix it, you have to drain and catch the magic coolant, and then filter it before refilling the system, or you spend even more money on additional waterless coolant. Seems like a lot of excessive effort and costs with no discernible benefit.
  24. JFP in PA
    Electrical contact cleaner seems to work the best, and some have had good luck with MAF cleaner as well.
  25. JFP in PA
    Here is the flywheel side view of the oversized IMS, waiting to have its rear seal removed, there is plenty of room to get at it: All OEM IMS bearings have inner and outer seals to retain the grease they were packed with. As most have already had the grease washed away, you simply pop the rear seal off to allow access for engine oil. All cars built after 2006 (until 2009) carry this style bearing, as do many of the 2005 cars. There is no way of telling in the 2005 cars which bearing is in the engine, you have to take it apart and look.
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