JFP in PA

Purely a cost & time horizon scenario, the Solution, while permanent, costs nearly $1K more for parts compared to either the old style single row or the newer Pro, and requires a bit more labor to install; and some people are simply not seeing themselves owning the car long enough to benefit.

The numbers bandied around fortunately have grown somewhat with experience; current numbers are around 50K miles for the original single row bearing: http://imsretrofit.com/service-intervals/; while the newer "Pro" version for the single row engines is at 75K.

Yes, there should be some play, and yours does not look all that unusual.

Check with your local auto body repair supply shop, or online, 3M has a line of excellent weather strip type adhesives which will work perfectly for this.

Have tried to have a dealer reset the service alert? I'm wondering if the problem is with your DME rather than the Durametric system, and if the dealer has problems, that would confirm it.

Some of the early cars had a fuel pressure regulator (red arrow on the left) on the fuel rail, which can be the source of the problem, or you could have one injector that is leaking down.

I am also not sure what is going on here. We use the Durametric for service resets just about every day and it works. Are you sure the system is not a clone and that it is communicating with the car?

Couple of them; if you have a battery maintainer, plug it in to the cig lighter and wait an hour or so until the battery builds up some juice, the trunk will then open. On the driver's kick panel there is a fuse panel with an indicated power lug; attach another battery there and the trunk will open (for more on this, check your owner's manual).

It could be the fuel system bleeding down pressure while it is sitting for longer periods. Try hooking up a fuel pressure test gauge to the fuel rail and see if the pressure is bleeding off while it sits.

Using this tool: Larger problem is how you bend the electrodes to open or close the gap on four electrode plugs............

I'm not sure why you are asking this question, but the changes in the Tip were mostly problem fixes and/or updated parts. I've driven several of all of the variants and they really don't seem all that different. They are also not easily interchangeable for various reasons.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Try this link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/45-replacing-the-gasfuel-door-actuator/

The fob section of the key can be replaced without having to cut a new key shaft, you just move it to the new fob. The fob, however, will require coding the car if the "pill" cannot be move to the new fob or does not work. If coding is required, you need a PIWIS unit.

I'm afraid I cannot help you with that one, but I would suggest contacting the local Porsche Club chapter, which I believe is the Music City chapter: http://www.musikstadtpca.org/ They should be able to provide you with some suggestions based upon local user's experiences.

Even when the engine is otherwise immaculate clean inside, the rather tiny oil passages in this system can become blocked by small bits of loose plastic from sealant squeeze out or other plastic bits in the engine. These are not easy to remove without dropping the engine and taking at least some of it apart.

If the car has had a recent battery change, you may still need to check to see how the coding looks, we have seen several 987 lose the seat heater coding when the battery was changed. Both the Durametric (Pro) and Porsche's factory tool can reset them back to "on" if they switched off.

OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Have they ever worked? I have seen multiple cars that needed to have the system coded before they actually functioned.

By far, most of the Tip's fluid is in the torque converter, which you cannot drain by draining the pan. At most, you will get out 4-5 L from the pan. This is one of several reasons we recommend changing the fluid in the Tip more frequently. I also removed your double posting on this topic; please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

At this time, the PIWIS is the only system that can access the PDK system for this service. While the gear box oil can simply be drained, the clutch oil (which is a totally different type of oil) requires the use of the PIWIS to change correctly. The clutch oil needs to be changed twice for every time the gear box oil is changed, and considering that a new clutch package for one of these costs $5K alone at the parts counter, I would be changing it more often than the spec. Yes, there is a filter (from what I've read, it should retail for around $150), and I have seen dealer quotes ranging from $450 to $900 to do the service, depending upon filter change. From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level: • Engine must be idling • Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis • Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C) • Selector-lever position “P” • Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode) • Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle • Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging • Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore • To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.

Because a PPI is your last chance to avoid a problem, the shop choice should always be that of the buyer, not the seller.

The canister and some of the valves are, but the purge line runs to the engine bay as well: 1 - Mass air flow sensor, right 2 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1, bank 1 3 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2, bank 1 4 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3, bank 1 5 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4, bank 1 6 - DME control module 7 - Electric fuel pump, right 8 - EVAP canister 9 - Fuel tank 10 - Electric fuel pump, left 11 - Driver's door lock with switch for fuel pump supply 12 - Current distributor with cutoff relay under driver's seat 13 - KESSY control module 14 - E-box in radiator tank with fuse and relay carrier 15 - Pedal sensor 16 - Fuel injector, cylinder 8, bank 2 17 - Fuel injector, cylinder 7, bank 2 18 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6, bank 2 19 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5, bank 2 20 - Tank vent valve 21 - Mass air flow sensor, left 22 - Positive crankcase ventilation heater 23 - Throttle adjusting unit

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections). Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Is the replacement cluster a new one or out of another car?