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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. They are useable, as long as you respect that they may not always be the current information. We keep a library of these service manuals, and when they were still in print it nearly a full time job to keep them currently updated, which is one of many reasons Porsche, like all the other OEM's, went to online systems which are always current.
  2. First of all, the PDF files (if they are the ones I have seen) were very early versions (1999 if memory serves) and had none the dozens of updates released later to correct misinformation contained in the originals. The Bentley manuals have also contained some incorrect information as well, and they have also released correction's on their website, so the inconsistencies you are seeing are not at all unusual, and why we often caution readers about using old and potentially incorrect information. Seat fasteners should be torqued to 65Nm or 48 ft. lb. Motor mounts should be torqued to 65Nm or 48 ft. lb.
  3. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: There is a specific section of the forum (Lost Radio Code) for the sole purpose of obtaining radio codes, please repost there.
  4. Try the EBC Red Stuff pads (ceramics) for your vehicle. I have several customers running them and they seem to like them.
  5. I would not be so quick to dismiss dirt/debris in the oil. Even the cleanest of these engines have particulate matter in the oil, including small plastic bits from the chain wear pads; any of which can plug a vital passage in the cam control system and cause no end of headaches. The vanes are the sealing strips the manual is referring to. You indicate that the cams are advancing properly, have you confirmed that using your Durametric? The various components and their function for the VarioCam + system are explained in the 2002 Technical Information Book (about four pages is memory serves), which is available to contributing members (Go to Downloads > Contributing Members Only > Service Information Books).
  6. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Let's start with the code itself: P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Dirt in oil circuit - Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty - Oil pressure too low - Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster - Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty. I would start with these before any parts are replaced or attempting to reset the cam timing. I rather doubt you are suffering from a stretched chain. While that can happen, it is not an everyday occurrence. More often, something in the VarioCam system is acting up (components listed above). Very few of these cars sit at 0 cam deviation values; in reality, anywhere between +/- 6 degrees is just fine. You also did not note if the cam angle changes with the VarioCam active, which would provide more data about what is going on. Your Durametric can activate the system for you. I have never seen a chain for these engines with master links, and would be concerned about their reliability in these engines. With everything else going on in this cam drive system, they really don't need anything else that can act up.
  7. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Bentley manuals are good value and cover a lot topics, but not everything, Topics like the X51 or Turbo can get rather intensive and quite specific, and most 996 owners would not really be interested anyway.
  8. +1 on the B&M. I have one nearly as old as Loren's and it is still perfect. I've also installed a lot of B&M's over the years for customers, never had a problem with any of them.
  9. Rather than focus on the approved list, you can also use credible independent rating systems such as ACEA A3, B3, B4. Manufacturer published data often is culled to hold their product in its best light, but what you really want to know is how does the product hold up to high temperature/high shear environments, which is where the ACEA system comes in.
  10. I think you are going to find that those that have acquired engine assembly tooling are not going to be interested in lending or renting them out. You might want to search around as there have been posts concerning fabricating these and other Porsche specific tools.
  11. Try this: http://eni-agip.ru/upload/docs/PORSCHE%202012_A40.pdf
  12. It is the IMS bearing. While not new, LN developed a super strong triple row version of their ceramic hybrid, which requires a special replacement shaft with pinned sprockets. This is used only on disassembled engines as it is an entire shaft assembly with the bearing already installed, and requires splitting the cases to install. Very few people have even seen this unit, but it is a work of art. From their website: "LN Engineering also offers an IMS Upgrade service where you send in your intermediate shaft and it is upgraded to a triple row bearing (with exception of MY06-08). Additionally, the main drive sprocket is pinned to prevent slippage of the drive gear, which is a known problem area."
  13. With the crank at TDC, if you remove the four chain tensioners, the chain on the IMS should easily go slack enough to be removed.
  14. Yet very few people even realize that and think his gouging them. they didn't do their homework! Most people don't, they think a reman Porsche should cost about the same as a reman 350 cubic inch Chevy, which you can find for about $1,500. It is only when they go through the exercise of pricing out tooling, machine shop time, bolts, etc. that they realize some of Jake's engines are a fair deal pricewise.
  15. Let me guess, this is one of their "triple" row IMS units, which are truly a beautiful thing.
  16. Yet very few people even realize that and think his gouging them. You might also look at RND Engines, which is a separate company but the letters stand for "Raby Navarro Development". They do replacement M96 and 97 engines with just the weak stuff addressed (Nickies, IMS, etc.), but no trick rods, pistons, etc. Theses are turnkey engines sold on a core exchange basis, and are much cheaper than a one-off Raby unit.
  17. The unfortunate answer is "Yes". Before pulling the car apart, however, I would flush the clutch hydraulics, just to make sure the problem is not that the valet got the clutch hot and cause a moisture induced bubble in the hydraulic system. If that does not work, you are in for a clutch job; an excellent time to update the RMS, IMS, and AOS while the car is apart. And then stop using valet parking :eek:
  18. Correct, to be precise, I use a torque angle meter (I have a digital unit, but you can get a mechanical unit off Amazon for around $14):
  19. Let's start with bolts; I would not reuse any of them as many are single use torque plus stretch type (rotational angle). Go with all ARP replacements or new OEM. And yes, the bolt expense is all part of how this engine works. All of the crank carrier bolts need to be lubricated (I prefer ARP lube). First torque is to 15 ft. lb.; followed by 90 degrees. Once the crank is installed, axial end play should be 0.05 to 0.24 MM. When the rods are installed, again lube the fasteners, then torque to 15 ft. lb., plus 90 degrees. There are two thrust bearings on the crank, one goes in cap #1 (belt end), the other in cap #7 (flywheel end). When installing the bearing shells into the carrier, be sure to lubricate them. I prefer Joe Gibbs assembly lube, but anything similar will work. Have fun...............
  20. The IMS shaft chain sprocket is pressed on, and have actually been known to slip on the shaft. I would have someone with experience check your shaft and sprocket to see if they can still be used, and if they can, I would highly recommend having the sprocket pinned to the shaft to prevent it from ever moving unintentionally. A replacement shaft is going to be an issue. You will need to find a serviceable used one and get it pinned as discussed above. Replacement shafts from Porsche are all going to be the non serviceable over sized third design IMS bearing, and would include the bearing, which is why they are so expensive. Yes, an "off the shelf" adjustable ring compressor will work, but your larger issue is going to be how you are going to get the wrist pin locks back into place as it requires a special tool and forces you to work through a small opening, a process that has been likened to building a ship in a bottle. With the shaft out of the engine, you can install the LN bearing using a bearing press, but if the shaft has the old bearing still in it, you are going to need the pulling tool to get it out before you can install the LN.
  21. That is what we are here for. Never hurts to do a search.
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