JFP in PA

Firing order is 1-6-2-4-3-5. Possibly, but in any case possibly dead heater in an O2 sensor is going to alter how the car runs.

P1117 indicates a low current condition on on the heated O2 sensor ahead of the cat on bank 1. This can either be a bad heater or a wiring issue. Check the sensor resistance using a digital multimeter on pins 1 & 2; you should see 1.8-2.5 ohm, if you don't the sensor heater is gone and you need to replace the sensor. All of the rest of the codes refer to the misfire on cylinder 5, which could be a loose connector, bad coil, or fouled plug.

You are close to the edge on a go/no go retrofit with that amount of debris, particularly with that amount of ferrous material. The synthetic material can come from multiple sources, including the wear pads on the chain tensioning paddles. If your car was in my shop, this would be one of the cases where I would pull the IMS and open it up to see what is looks like before proceeding.

Run a magnet over the crap in the sump cover and see how much gets picked up. I'm not overly concerned about the plastic bits.

That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above. Thanks, JFP. Where are these primary battery cables and how would you test them. When the warning message came on it was during very heavy fog so there was lots of moisture in the air. I got a burning smell in the cabin, so I get the idea something shorted or burnt out!? I am referring to the heavy cables that run from the battery to a terminal junction and then down to the starter.

Yes, "AT" refers to " Austausch", which is factory reman replacement engine.

The car has defined lift points, which are outline in the owner's manual, and do not involve lifting the entire end of the car in one move. You also do not need customized jack stands for the car, generic stands with a simple hockey puck on top will do just fine. And yes, the car will tilt a bit while jacking it from the side, which is completely normal. As this had been a repeating question, search is always your best friend.

That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above.

That bearing is a cheaper alternative type bearing, not unlike what Pelican offered as a cheap substitute for the LN hybrid ceramic bearings. In essence, it is nothing more that a new OEM type bearing. Getting the debris and its source out of the engine is key to any path forward. The problem with the grit is not just the IMS bearing, it is every bearing surface in the engine. Full flow filtration, quality oil, shorten oil change cycles, and magnetism would be the best approach short of tearing the engine down. Thanks John. While this bearing is not a ceramic bearing, it does have dual rows unlike the Pelican single row + a spacer. Once there are debris, I think even with the best filtration, the lingering debris can still be picked up by the chains or sucked into the scavenge pumps, etc. so I thought fitting an open bearing sounds quite risky. It is a dual row steel bearing with seals on it, just like the OEM unit. The debris is definitely a threat to an IMS bearing without seals, which is why both Jake and LN have said for years that if the sump has appreciable grit in it, the engine is not a candidate for the retrofit. The principal reason they did this was to limit the number of LN IMS retrofit failures which were not caused by the bearing but by other factors which often conveniently get left out of internet postings. On the same subject, but closer to home, we have been asked more than once to do a retrofit on engines with obvious considerable ferrous grit issues in the sump that looked like the early to mid stages of an IMS failure. While we have always declined to retrofit questionable engines, a couple of the owners choose to go elsewhere or do the retrofits themselves using unsealed IMS bearings, which unfortunately did not work out (engine's failed in as little as 60 miles post retrofit), but these failures were not the IMS bearings, they were rod and main related, or due to the oil pump being chewed to Hell by the debris. So more than just the IMS is at risk in these situations. I have only ever head about a very small number of engines with obvious IMS problems that have lived any period of time after a retrofit and many, many oil and filter changes in a very short period of time, and no one really know how much longer they lived beyond the owner's last forum posting. When there is small amounts of ferrous debris in the sump, we will remove the IMS and inspect it; it the balls and race look like the surface of the moon, we stop there and recommend pulling the engine for further inspection. But more often than not, engine's with just a small amount of debris in the sump have been found to have near perfect IMS bearings, confirming that not all of the debris comes from the IMS.

That bearing is a cheaper alternative type bearing, not unlike what Pelican offered as a cheap substitute for the LN hybrid ceramic bearings. In essence, it is nothing more that a new OEM type bearing. Getting the debris and its source out of the engine is key to any path forward. The problem with the grit is not just the IMS bearing, it is every bearing surface in the engine. Full flow filtration, quality oil, shorten oil change cycles, and magnetism would be the best approach short of tearing the engine down.

Yes, check the voltage drop across the large primary cables running from the battery to a junction and then down to the starter. These cables are well known for developing internal corrosion, so there is nothing to see, but the resistance goes way up, leading to a large drop in voltage and cable overheating. If you see more than 0.5V drop, the cables need to be replaced.

You may be correct, but without the actual codes it would still be a guessing game to figure out what is at fault. This is what the codes are for. Before driving to Porsche, have a local shop scan the vehicle with their OBD II tool, it could tell you enough to get moving on fixing it.

A quick after thought: Look around for a copy of the Bentley 996 service manual, it would contain everything you are looking for, and well as excellent DIY info for everything on the car.

Nothing magical here as the OEM links are not adjustable. Tighten the link's lower (10MM) nut to 34 ft. lb., and the upper (12MM) to 63 ft. lb. and you are good to go.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Without the actual codes, anything would be a guess. Get it scanned and let us know what you find.

Not really, all these engine's generate some metallic debris, and not always at a constant rate. That is why the use of a high quality oil and full flow oil filtration is so important. The major point at this juncture is that you need to be sure there isn't a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, which would negate the installation of the new IMS until after the engine is torn down to find out what is coming apart. If the sump is clean, you can install the new IMS and you are ready to go.

Not a problem, you should be able to locate one on fleabay or a similar site.

Like many other documents, the original owners manuals are copyrighted materials belonging to Porsche; offering them as downloads would be a violation of their intellectual property rights, which we do not allow or condone, as noted in the site terms you agreed with when you joined.

That function is built into the light switch, not the indicator stalk.

Here they have been mandatory safety equipment for many years (since 2006).

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unfortunately, your response is misleading. Here, the potential liability issues with disabling Federally mandated safety systems is established "black letter law". Shop owners like myself have been copiously warned about our liability exposure should we disable one of these system and the car is subsequently involved in a serious crash. There are already cases where the shops have been sued by the very people that requested the system be disabled, and the shops were found liable due to "superior knowledge" of how these systems work and their potential for causing accidents. And individual's that helped a friend disable them have also been held liable. So I stand by my earlier comment; most (if not all) shops will not help in this effort.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Sounds like an obvious electrical glitch, either in the light switch (common) or the turn signal stalk system (less common). As the car is under warranty, I would definitely direct the service advisor to look into the problem as it is not going to get better on its own.

As I mentioned earlier, there can be several sources for ferrous debris, not just the IMS bearing. Start up noise in these engine's is also common and can be the result of wear on the chain tensioner paddles, the chain tensioners them selves, and the lifters. Prior to doing an IMS change, your tech should pull the sump cover for inspection. If there is a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, corrective measures are going to be required before doing the IMS swap, or the circulating grit will harm the new IMS which is lubricated by the engine oil. If the sump contents are nominal, the IMS retrofit can proceed. If you have not already done so, I would also add the LN spin on filter adaptor as well for better oil filtration going forward. We do not advocate the use of oil additive's or detergents; you should be running a full synthetic which should do everything necessary to keep the engine cleaned out. Many thanks JFP, I haven't got that filter yet, are you able to confirm the part I need please, is it this one? http://lnengineering.com/oil-change-bundle-configurable.html That is the one.

As I mentioned earlier, there can be several sources for ferrous debris, not just the IMS bearing. Start up noise in these engine's is also common and can be the result of wear on the chain tensioner paddles, the chain tensioners them selves, and the lifters. Prior to doing an IMS change, your tech should pull the sump cover for inspection. If there is a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, corrective measures are going to be required before doing the IMS swap, or the circulating grit will harm the new IMS which is lubricated by the engine oil. If the sump contents are nominal, the IMS retrofit can proceed. If you have not already done so, I would also add the LN spin on filter adaptor as well for better oil filtration going forward. We do not advocate the use of oil additive's or detergents; you should be running a full synthetic which should do everything necessary to keep the engine cleaned out.

You need to get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (Durametric, PIWIS) to find out what codes it is throwing; without that anything would be a guess and not the basis for action steps.