JFP in PA

Gentlemen, gentlemen; let's take it down a notch.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Two possible approaches: Thoroughly clean the engine bay, then start looking for the leak source. If that does not work, you can add a UV dye to the oil and use a black light to try to isolate it.

I would be cautious about using non-steel tubing on modern braking systems. Cooper used to be fine on older braking systems, which operated at much lower pressures than modern systems with anti-lock and stability management systems. While easy to work with, they could be soft enough to cause the flares to fail under pressure at the exact moment you need them most. That's an interesting point. I use piping made from a copper- nickel alloy, which apparently has the same burst pressure as steel tubing of about 19,000 psi. I have used it successfully on older vehicles, but not on any car currently less than 15 years old. On the 15 year old vehicle (not a Porsche), which I still own it is performing well. I used it to replace a corroded steel brake line that burst under severe braking when the vehicle was less than 8 years old. This is the second time I have had brake failure on this model of vehicle. On both occasions the corroded steel pipe failed at a point above the fuel tank where road debris accumulates. The cupro-nickel pipe in this location does not corrode and I consider it to be a better option if it does not corrode and sustains the correct pressure. I notice that two of my local garages also uses cupro-nickel pipe for replacement. If what you say is right about its inadequacy to sustain pressure, I need to investigate this further. Is there any guidance I could refer to on this topic? You would need to find two data points about the cooper tubing you are using: burst pressure and tensile strength, and then compare them to the steel alloy used in the factory lines. Burst pressure is obvious, but less obvious is how well the cooper would stand up under tensile loads (basically stretching). Because the flare process can actually thin the metal at the flare, it ability to stand up to tensile loads becomes important at these higher line pressure, particularly when automated pulse pressure systems (ABS, PSM, etc.,) come into play. Corrosion of the mild steel lines has always haunted these cars, which is why there is an aftermarket using stainless steel.

I would be cautious about using non-steel tubing on modern braking systems. Cooper used to be fine on older braking systems, which operated at much lower pressures than modern systems with anti-lock and stability management systems. While easy to work with, they could be soft enough to cause the flares to fail under pressure at the exact moment you need them most.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do not even think about doing brakes lines unless you have a proper set of metric flare fitting wrenches; without these you will round over the hex fittings:

Easy: While the OEM filter is much larger in physical size, it is also much coarser in terms of the filter media pore diameter as well, which allows a lot more fine material through the filter and back into your engine. The NAPA Gold spin on has nearly a third smaller pore diameter in its media, which stops particulates that would pass through the OEM filter. And as Ahsai has also already mentioned, the spin on is a "full flow" design, which does not have a bypass like the OEM filter, so all the oil is filtered all the time, and failed bypass valves are a real issue with the OEM setup. As for physical size or surface area, that is not the critical measure of an oil filter, what you should be looking at is efficiency (how many gallons per hour of oil the filter can the filter handle, and how good is it at stopping particulate matter); and in those categories the spin on wins hands down (it is rated well in excess of the volume of oil your engine can actually pump, and with a third smaller media pore diameter it will stop a lot more than the OEM unit). Some like to argue that without a bypass and with smaller pores, the spin would clog up faster than the OEM and shut off the oil flow in the case of a catastrophic engine failure, which is actually irrelevant as in that case the engine is already toast and would need to come apart anyway, regardless of which filter is on it, and running it longer with circulating debris is just going to make a bad situation a lot worse.. We have a lot of customers running the spin on filters, and we cut open every filter on every oil change, regardless of filter types. We also offer UOA for every oil change to our customers as well, and many make use of that service with each change so that the owners have records of how their engine's have been doing over time. Which style filter you use is not a matter of hype, the spin on is better hands down, particularly if you also run a FilterMag unit on the outside of it, which passes every drop of oil in the engine through a strong magnetic field as it passes through the filter. Why does Porsche persist in using inferior technology when a fairly simple process for improvement is available? I would have thought that their substantial staff would be aware of this information and be eager to make an upgrade. Is it a cost factor or is the paper cartridge in a reusable plastic canister the response to a recycling issue? I guess they are avoiding having a substantial amount of metal being added to the waste stream by doing it this way. One of the basics of car building is that the bean counters very often overrule the designers; saving a buck or two per car is critical in these circles. Just look what saving $0.50 per car did to the Ford Pinto, or what saving $0.65 on an ignition switch did for GM. It ain't always about being "green", and if fact very rarely does that ever enter into the equation.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/343-cayenne-turbo-battery-removal-diy/

Easy: While the OEM filter is much larger in physical size, it is also much coarser in terms of the filter media pore diameter as well, which allows a lot more fine material through the filter and back into your engine. The NAPA Gold spin on has nearly a third smaller pore diameter in its media, which stops particulates that would pass through the OEM filter. And as Ahsai has also already mentioned, the spin on is a "full flow" design, which does not have a bypass like the OEM filter, so all the oil is filtered all the time, and failed bypass valves are a real issue with the OEM setup. As for physical size or surface area, that is not the critical measure of an oil filter, what you should be looking at is efficiency (how many gallons per hour of oil the filter can the filter handle, and how good is it at stopping particulate matter); and in those categories the spin on wins hands down (it is rated well in excess of the volume of oil your engine can actually pump, and with a third smaller media pore diameter it will stop a lot more than the OEM unit). Some like to argue that without a bypass and with smaller pores, the spin would clog up faster than the OEM and shut off the oil flow in the case of a catastrophic engine failure, which is actually irrelevant as in that case the engine is already toast and would need to come apart anyway, regardless of which filter is on it, and running it longer with circulating debris is just going to make a bad situation a lot worse.. We have a lot of customers running the spin on filters, and we cut open every filter on every oil change, regardless of filter types. We also offer UOA for every oil change to our customers as well, and many make use of that service with each change so that the owners have records of how their engine's have been doing over time. Which style filter you use is not a matter of hype, the spin on is better hands down, particularly if you also run a FilterMag unit on the outside of it, which passes every drop of oil in the engine through a strong magnetic field as it passes through the filter.

The part number is sold separately and retails for about $6. http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe-porsche/99970746540

As mentioned above, they are at different levels, so filling it from the wrong plug will over fill the gearbox and risk having the excess oil get onto the clutch from the input shaft housing.

Please do not "bump" your posts, it is against forum rules.

As the system is hydraulically operated, there is really no practicle way to control the engagement point on the clutch. The helper springs on the pedal system can alter the effort involved, but will again not alter the engagement point. That said, it sounds like yours is extremely high, which may be indicative of a problem with either the hydrualic system itself, or the clutch fork pivot.

+1 :notworthy:

I would also not wish the CVT on anyone. While simple, lightweight, and supposedly "superior" (at least according the OEM's that uses them), they also have had a terrible response from owners of new cars equipped with them (noise and poor driving resposne), very limited service access, and as the direct result are getting a very bad reputation. Nissan has gone to using only CVT's on all of their automatic trans equipped cars (except for the GT-R, which uses a sequential dual clutch gear box like the PDK) and it has been a customer relations nightmare for them. The only available parts are fluid, a drain plug and its sealing ring; period. If something goes wrong 5 min. out of warranty, you need to buy either a new or factory reaman CVT, which start at $2,600 dealer cost for the reman unit, which is just plain nuts. This problem is so bad with Nissan's CVT that even transmission repair shops have to buy them from dealers, nobody can work on them as it requires speicalized tooling and fixtures that the factory will not sell, and there is absoultely no technical information available either. CVT is not the answer That's an interesting reply and I knew nothing of those matters with cars. Of course the essence of a CVT is a sealed system where the actual drive point relies on the solidification of a microscopic lubrication film at the critical moment. I just think that its inherent simplicity in bound to win out in the end when the mechanisms are perfected for automotive use. Its use on bicycle has been a light bulb moment for me, but then I am using something with far less torque transmission. The CVT concept has merit, it is the execution that is flawed. When people buy a $20k car (US $ on a new purschase), they tend to throw a major fit when told that they need to spend another $4-5K to replace the gear box on a four year old car because nobody knows how to work on them. With the dealers being the only source for reman transmissions, it is an ugly situation for Nissan, Honda, Toyota, and everyone else that has adopted them in recent years. To give you an idea how widespread the issue is, the local Nissan dealer to me keeps several complete CVT's in stock at all times because the sell so well.

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections). Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen. So the valve up in the engine compartment is the one to hit first.... It is a good place to start.

Hi JFP , Thank you very much forwarm wellcome through your answer . Please , waht you mean by part marked blue : "so if you disconnect the vacuum lines at the exhaust and plug them" Does that mean to close them with some kind of plug ? Thnak you again . KoljaRenn Yes, most people use a cut down screw or small bolt to block the vacuum lines at the valves on the exhaust. Vacuum is used to operate the PSE contol valves, so if you remove the exhaust and replace it with a non PSE system, simply plugging the vacuum lines will result in the car not knowing that the system is not there and will operate normally. If the lines were not plugged, you would have an intake vacuum leak which would cause problems and force the car to start throwing trouble codes due to intake mixture lean conditions due to the vacuum leak. Plug the lines and you will be fine, it is that simple.

I would also not wish the CVT on anyone. While simple, lightweight, and supposedly "superior" (at least according the OEM's that uses them), they also have had a terrible response from owners of new cars equipped with them (noise and poor driving resposne), very limited service access, and as the direct result are getting a very bad reputation. Nissan has gone to using only CVT's on all of their automatic trans equipped cars (except for the GT-R, which uses a sequential dual clutch gear box like the PDK) and it has been a customer relations nightmare for them. The only available parts are fluid, a drain plug and its sealing ring; period. If something goes wrong 5 min. out of warranty, you need to buy either a new or factory reaman CVT, which start at $2,600 dealer cost for the reman unit, which is just plain nuts. This problem is so bad with Nissan's CVT that even transmission repair shops have to buy them from dealers, nobody can work on them as it requires speicalized tooling and fixtures that the factory will not sell, and there is absoultely no technical information available either. CVT is not the answer

Unfortunately, yes. Other than the clutch pack (which is a single $6K unit for just the parts) Porshce never intended for the PDK to be serviced in the field, so there is both very limited technical or service information information available, and almost no parts.

Knowing how this system works, I seriously doubt either of these proceedures are going to do anything other than waste your time. You problem is that in order to change the remotes out, you need to reprogram the car to accept them, which requires either a PST II or a PIWIS system.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: The PSE contol system uses a dash switch to manually operate the system as well as a speed sensors to close it under certain conditions. That said, the control valves are vacuum operated, so if you disconnect the vacuum lines at the exhaust and plug them, nothing else is required to use the non PSE mufflers. No reprogramming is required.

I would be very circumspect about spending a grand for a knock off of a system that Porsche does not even sell, but only leases for around $20K (US) for the first year. Some people have thought they were getting a real PIWIS and actually got an old and no longer supported version of the Durametric system, which did not work either. "Caveat emptor".

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The "loose plug" in your pictures is for the rare factory cell phone, not the rear speakers. And as much as I hate to say it, whoever did that install is a butcher. You do not need to cut wires to do this, especially in the way that they did it so it cannot easily be reconnected. They are also responsible for why the components do not work, because they did not know what they were cutting.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless mistaken, I think you need to have the system recoded (PIWIS) when you change this unit out. Thanks for the Welcome and the response, are you saying I may need a recode to have the new CDC4 unit accepted or that if I eliminate the CDC4 and do a loopback that I may need a recode ? It is my understanding of the PCM of your vintage that when components are replaced, like the CDC 4, the system has to be recoded to accept it.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless mistaken, I think you need to have the system recoded (PIWIS) when you change this unit out.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: First of all, there is no such thing as a stupid question. What you have done is introduce air into the ABS/PSM control network, which requires the use of a Porsche specific scan tool (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) to electronically activate theses systems in a special mode while bleeding the system to get all of the air out. This is the only known way to accomplish this. Once properly re-bled, the system will be fine.