JFP in PA

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded. Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing. Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

Most shops have tools to check each sensor to make sure they are working. Suggest you look for an online version of your manual section in english to check you have correctly set the car's system before going further.

The proceedure should be in your owner's manual, but it sounds like you have already done that. At this juncture, I think you need to have someone look at and test your system; either the new sensors are not working, or something else is wrong.

OK, that frequency seems good, but did you put the system into "learning mode"?

Would you say that it just needs another bleed? To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper. Got it. Should i hit the calipers or anything to help get air out? No, the fluid movement is all that is necessary.

Would you say that it just needs another bleed? To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper.

What frequency are the sensors you purchased operating on? Have you put the system into "learning mode"?

Glad it worked out for you. Rental cars are cars without an owner to care about them that are cleaned & cared foir by minimum wage workers, which is why we caution potental buyers to beware.

I sounds like you still had air in the system.

Appears to be the free wheeling pulley, and Amazon carries it for $250: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL0815N-New-Alternator/dp/B000IYAAYE

First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: This is probably not a very common occurrence, so your service manager is going to need to contact PCNA, who may want to send someone out to look at the vehicle. Obviously, all this is going to take some time. You always have the option to go over their heads and contact PCNA directly as well. A word of advice in all this: It is fine to be firm, but not to let the dialog get to the point where bridges are being burned. It may be a warranty issue, or it may not. In any case, your insurance should also cover it as well. Good luck.

On an 05, TPMS was an option, so your car is not set up for it, but you can add it with an aftermarket kit. And use of TPMS became a federal requirement as of 2007, states had no say in it.

Make them tight, but don't try to kill them.

That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan. It also has a "box" attached to it. Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on. IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it. But maybe I'm wrong? In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on. Ahsai is correct in his assumption that either the Durametric system or the OEM PIWIS should be able to trigger the fan to run. I think yours should look something like this: Jeff, no offense, but triggering a fan to run, which is already running, isn't going to tell me anything. If I already know the trigger wire is hot when it shouldn't be, I need to figure out why that trigger wire is hot. Hence why I asked the question, where is this motor control unit. It is NOT the one on the fan housing. If you look at the wiring diagram, the module has only three wires, and it is connected between both fans.....if you look on the fan housing, and in your picture, they clearly are never connected until you trace back into the car side of the harness. OK, let's look at the basics: There are a limited number of things which can tell the DME to make the fan run, and at what speed; the coolant temperature sensor (which you have already eliminated) and the AC system during cooling or cold defrost. I would take a look at the AC system controls; if the AC system is not calling for the fans to run, the DME has a problem and is causing the false triggering. On your model, the Durametric can also scan the AC system as well as activating the fans, so that might be worth a look as well.

That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan. It also has a "box" attached to it. Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on. IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it. But maybe I'm wrong? In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on. Ahsai is correct in his assumption that either the Durametric system or the OEM PIWIS should be able to trigger the fan to run. I think yours should look something like this:

I always thought that device was a relay, just called by another name, as Porsche uses relays on their other earlier vehicles. After reading up on this device, apparently this new control unit eliminates the need for resistors to control fan speeds (which were always troublesome), and is also being used in the later cars as well. Learn something new every day. Thanks Ahsai. On the downside, instead of a $20 relay and a couple of resistors, now you need to jump for a $700+ fan assembly.

The red lines are hot water flowing to the radiators, the blue lines the cooled water returning to the engine. By disconnecting the line just before the thermostat housing, you should be able to run the system backwards and dislodge what can be gotten out. It will not be perfect, but it is your best shot. The big issue here is to try and dislodge any bits that are inside the cylinder heads.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You need to flush your system backwards to normal flow to try and get out as much of the impeller as possible:

Welcome to Renntech :welcome: You need to get a qualified body shop to look at the car and give you a breakdown on what is damaged, it is nearly impossible to estimate what is required from photos as they do not show the damge beneath the body work (supports, braces, etc.). Perhaps one of our North Jersey/NYC/Lower NY state members can chime in on good shop references.

Not really sure that will work; the 1998-2001 996 cars used the K03 cluster, while the 1997-2000 986 used the K01 cluster. Perhaps someone that has done this swap could chime in with more info..............

I belevie they are now also 75K, but I would check LN's website for the most updated information.

Item #12: Retails for just under $20. Jeff are you sure that's not the starter relay? What's the pn on it? # 141-951-253-B $18.79 One of three (#8): You may want to check that part number with a dealer, it has been superceeded more than once.

Item #12: Retails for just under $20.

You may have a bad relay on that fan; suggest pulling it while the fan is running, if it switches off, you found your problem.

Not really necessary with a power bleeder, just put the fluid in the power bleeder and have at it.