JFP in PA

That bearing is a cheaper alternative type bearing, not unlike what Pelican offered as a cheap substitute for the LN hybrid ceramic bearings. In essence, it is nothing more that a new OEM type bearing. Getting the debris and its source out of the engine is key to any path forward. The problem with the grit is not just the IMS bearing, it is every bearing surface in the engine. Full flow filtration, quality oil, shorten oil change cycles, and magnetism would be the best approach short of tearing the engine down.

Yes, check the voltage drop across the large primary cables running from the battery to a junction and then down to the starter. These cables are well known for developing internal corrosion, so there is nothing to see, but the resistance goes way up, leading to a large drop in voltage and cable overheating. If you see more than 0.5V drop, the cables need to be replaced.

You may be correct, but without the actual codes it would still be a guessing game to figure out what is at fault. This is what the codes are for. Before driving to Porsche, have a local shop scan the vehicle with their OBD II tool, it could tell you enough to get moving on fixing it.

A quick after thought: Look around for a copy of the Bentley 996 service manual, it would contain everything you are looking for, and well as excellent DIY info for everything on the car.

Nothing magical here as the OEM links are not adjustable. Tighten the link's lower (10MM) nut to 34 ft. lb., and the upper (12MM) to 63 ft. lb. and you are good to go.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Without the actual codes, anything would be a guess. Get it scanned and let us know what you find.

Not really, all these engine's generate some metallic debris, and not always at a constant rate. That is why the use of a high quality oil and full flow oil filtration is so important. The major point at this juncture is that you need to be sure there isn't a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, which would negate the installation of the new IMS until after the engine is torn down to find out what is coming apart. If the sump is clean, you can install the new IMS and you are ready to go.

Not a problem, you should be able to locate one on fleabay or a similar site.

Like many other documents, the original owners manuals are copyrighted materials belonging to Porsche; offering them as downloads would be a violation of their intellectual property rights, which we do not allow or condone, as noted in the site terms you agreed with when you joined.

That function is built into the light switch, not the indicator stalk.

Here they have been mandatory safety equipment for many years (since 2006).

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unfortunately, your response is misleading. Here, the potential liability issues with disabling Federally mandated safety systems is established "black letter law". Shop owners like myself have been copiously warned about our liability exposure should we disable one of these system and the car is subsequently involved in a serious crash. There are already cases where the shops have been sued by the very people that requested the system be disabled, and the shops were found liable due to "superior knowledge" of how these systems work and their potential for causing accidents. And individual's that helped a friend disable them have also been held liable. So I stand by my earlier comment; most (if not all) shops will not help in this effort.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Sounds like an obvious electrical glitch, either in the light switch (common) or the turn signal stalk system (less common). As the car is under warranty, I would definitely direct the service advisor to look into the problem as it is not going to get better on its own.

As I mentioned earlier, there can be several sources for ferrous debris, not just the IMS bearing. Start up noise in these engine's is also common and can be the result of wear on the chain tensioner paddles, the chain tensioners them selves, and the lifters. Prior to doing an IMS change, your tech should pull the sump cover for inspection. If there is a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, corrective measures are going to be required before doing the IMS swap, or the circulating grit will harm the new IMS which is lubricated by the engine oil. If the sump contents are nominal, the IMS retrofit can proceed. If you have not already done so, I would also add the LN spin on filter adaptor as well for better oil filtration going forward. We do not advocate the use of oil additive's or detergents; you should be running a full synthetic which should do everything necessary to keep the engine cleaned out. Many thanks JFP, I haven't got that filter yet, are you able to confirm the part I need please, is it this one? http://lnengineering.com/oil-change-bundle-configurable.html That is the one.

As I mentioned earlier, there can be several sources for ferrous debris, not just the IMS bearing. Start up noise in these engine's is also common and can be the result of wear on the chain tensioner paddles, the chain tensioners them selves, and the lifters. Prior to doing an IMS change, your tech should pull the sump cover for inspection. If there is a substantial amount of ferrous grit in the sump, corrective measures are going to be required before doing the IMS swap, or the circulating grit will harm the new IMS which is lubricated by the engine oil. If the sump contents are nominal, the IMS retrofit can proceed. If you have not already done so, I would also add the LN spin on filter adaptor as well for better oil filtration going forward. We do not advocate the use of oil additive's or detergents; you should be running a full synthetic which should do everything necessary to keep the engine cleaned out.

You need to get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (Durametric, PIWIS) to find out what codes it is throwing; without that anything would be a guess and not the basis for action steps.

One is sufficient for most applications, the neodymium magnets are very strong.

The Durametric software is a good as you are going to get without spending a ton of money. You can purchase it directly from them on their website: http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx With the system, you can read the sensor voltages in real time while the engine is running.

Gentlemen, gentlemen; let's take it down a notch.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Two possible approaches: Thoroughly clean the engine bay, then start looking for the leak source. If that does not work, you can add a UV dye to the oil and use a black light to try to isolate it.

I would be cautious about using non-steel tubing on modern braking systems. Cooper used to be fine on older braking systems, which operated at much lower pressures than modern systems with anti-lock and stability management systems. While easy to work with, they could be soft enough to cause the flares to fail under pressure at the exact moment you need them most. That's an interesting point. I use piping made from a copper- nickel alloy, which apparently has the same burst pressure as steel tubing of about 19,000 psi. I have used it successfully on older vehicles, but not on any car currently less than 15 years old. On the 15 year old vehicle (not a Porsche), which I still own it is performing well. I used it to replace a corroded steel brake line that burst under severe braking when the vehicle was less than 8 years old. This is the second time I have had brake failure on this model of vehicle. On both occasions the corroded steel pipe failed at a point above the fuel tank where road debris accumulates. The cupro-nickel pipe in this location does not corrode and I consider it to be a better option if it does not corrode and sustains the correct pressure. I notice that two of my local garages also uses cupro-nickel pipe for replacement. If what you say is right about its inadequacy to sustain pressure, I need to investigate this further. Is there any guidance I could refer to on this topic? You would need to find two data points about the cooper tubing you are using: burst pressure and tensile strength, and then compare them to the steel alloy used in the factory lines. Burst pressure is obvious, but less obvious is how well the cooper would stand up under tensile loads (basically stretching). Because the flare process can actually thin the metal at the flare, it ability to stand up to tensile loads becomes important at these higher line pressure, particularly when automated pulse pressure systems (ABS, PSM, etc.,) come into play. Corrosion of the mild steel lines has always haunted these cars, which is why there is an aftermarket using stainless steel.

I would be cautious about using non-steel tubing on modern braking systems. Cooper used to be fine on older braking systems, which operated at much lower pressures than modern systems with anti-lock and stability management systems. While easy to work with, they could be soft enough to cause the flares to fail under pressure at the exact moment you need them most.

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do not even think about doing brakes lines unless you have a proper set of metric flare fitting wrenches; without these you will round over the hex fittings:

Easy: While the OEM filter is much larger in physical size, it is also much coarser in terms of the filter media pore diameter as well, which allows a lot more fine material through the filter and back into your engine. The NAPA Gold spin on has nearly a third smaller pore diameter in its media, which stops particulates that would pass through the OEM filter. And as Ahsai has also already mentioned, the spin on is a "full flow" design, which does not have a bypass like the OEM filter, so all the oil is filtered all the time, and failed bypass valves are a real issue with the OEM setup. As for physical size or surface area, that is not the critical measure of an oil filter, what you should be looking at is efficiency (how many gallons per hour of oil the filter can the filter handle, and how good is it at stopping particulate matter); and in those categories the spin on wins hands down (it is rated well in excess of the volume of oil your engine can actually pump, and with a third smaller media pore diameter it will stop a lot more than the OEM unit). Some like to argue that without a bypass and with smaller pores, the spin would clog up faster than the OEM and shut off the oil flow in the case of a catastrophic engine failure, which is actually irrelevant as in that case the engine is already toast and would need to come apart anyway, regardless of which filter is on it, and running it longer with circulating debris is just going to make a bad situation a lot worse.. We have a lot of customers running the spin on filters, and we cut open every filter on every oil change, regardless of filter types. We also offer UOA for every oil change to our customers as well, and many make use of that service with each change so that the owners have records of how their engine's have been doing over time. Which style filter you use is not a matter of hype, the spin on is better hands down, particularly if you also run a FilterMag unit on the outside of it, which passes every drop of oil in the engine through a strong magnetic field as it passes through the filter. Why does Porsche persist in using inferior technology when a fairly simple process for improvement is available? I would have thought that their substantial staff would be aware of this information and be eager to make an upgrade. Is it a cost factor or is the paper cartridge in a reusable plastic canister the response to a recycling issue? I guess they are avoiding having a substantial amount of metal being added to the waste stream by doing it this way. One of the basics of car building is that the bean counters very often overrule the designers; saving a buck or two per car is critical in these circles. Just look what saving $0.50 per car did to the Ford Pinto, or what saving $0.65 on an ignition switch did for GM. It ain't always about being "green", and if fact very rarely does that ever enter into the equation.

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