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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not really sure that will work; the 1998-2001 996 cars used the K03 cluster, while the 1997-2000 986 used the K01 cluster. Perhaps someone that has done this swap could chime in with more info..............
  2. I belevie they are now also 75K, but I would check LN's website for the most updated information.
  3. Item #12: Retails for just under $20. Jeff are you sure that's not the starter relay? What's the pn on it? # 141-951-253-B $18.79 One of three (#8): You may want to check that part number with a dealer, it has been superceeded more than once.
  4. You may have a bad relay on that fan; suggest pulling it while the fan is running, if it switches off, you found your problem.
  5. Not really necessary with a power bleeder, just put the fluid in the power bleeder and have at it.
  6. Until you have put the car up in the air and look to see what is actually leaking, you really do not know what you are dealing with. Oil leaks come from many places. Look into it first, then get back with your questions.
  7. thanks JFP. Will Durametric reveal the fault? It should.
  8. It is indicating a fault in the system, you need to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to find out what the problem is.
  9. Yes, and then we blow them dry with compressed air so there is no lint. We flush solvent through the calipers as well, also followed by compressed air.
  10. A lot of expense and effort if it is not the source. I would start by double checking the OEM part numbers against what Porsche lists. You can use Sunset Porsche's online parts system to do this. Was there any problem with the car's hydraulic system before you did the clutch?
  11. We solvent clean the calipers and components, and then blow out the passages with compressed air.
  12. Year and model is always helpful. Possible cam cover or plug tubes (depending upon year). It could be either. Suggest cleaning the area and then keep an eye on how it develops.
  13. Yes, there could be pending codes which have not tripped the light yet.
  14. Ok, the reason I asked is that it sounds like you are pushing the pressure plate over center (turning the fingers inside out), which will cause the pedal to stick to the floor. Are all the parts OEM or after market?
  15. Depending upon how dirty or corroded, pretty much so.
  16. Did you bleed the clutch with the pedal held to the floor? If not, re-bleed it.
  17. Year and model is always helpful. Possible cam cover or plug tubes (depending upon year).
  18. The hard line flare nut can be undone without removing the clip, but as the clip will need to come off to remove the flex line anyway, I would just take it off.
  19. A dealer, or well equipped Indy, should have the master key set and can also get you a replacement key for your current lugs.
  20. On the 997, the lines are the same; some aftermarket come with the springs on all four to protect them. The threaded connection to the hard lines will actually slide back to expose the flared end of the hard line, so the hose needs to fit the line flare not the threaded fitting:
  21. Needle nose pliers are the tool of choice for the clips. Make up four plugged rubber hose sections to cap the hard lines and you will be fine, just don't let the system drain or you will have more problems. I also would not replace the rubber flex lines with new rubber units, I'd go with braided stainless steel instead.
  22. There are spring clips at #2 & 4 that need to be removed, and then you will need a proper fitting wrench to remove the lines: You should use a short section of rubber vacuum hose that is plugged to prevent the hydraulic fluid from draining out of the hear line section, and only open one line at a time.
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