JFP in PA

ATE type 200 is fine for the brakes. While the Durametric system can activate the ABS/PSM control system during a flush, doing so is only necessary if air has gotten into the control network. As for coolant, we only use Porsche's stuff, which is very good, but has been known to "not play well with others", so be careful about using other products unless the system has been fully drained and flushed with water first. Only mix the Porsche antifreeze with distilled water, never tap water. The optimal way to refill the cooling system is using a vacuum tool, which makes the process a 5 min. project instead of an all day affair. The second Pentosin tank (in the luggage compartment, under a cover) is for the clutch system. Flushing the power steering system is a pretty elaborate affair, requiring disconnecting the hydraulic system from the rack and running fresh fluid through the entire system until it is clear. Most owner's prefer to DIY this by siphoning out as much of the old fluid from the tanks and replenishing it at least once every year rather than disconnecting the lines from the rack and pumping fluid through the system. Porsche has typically listed their "approved" lubricants in Technical Service Bulletins, which are periodically updated, but you can usually find a wealth of information is the DIY sections under maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/342-996tt-manual-transmission-and-front-wheel-drive-oil-replacement/.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: It is under the dash near the fuse panel in a separate panel that is all relays.

A lot of people have purchased used cats from breaker's yards with excellent results. Do a search........

Very easy: Fill it up and do not run through the gears and up to the correct fluid temperature with the over flow plug out of the pan to drain off excees fluid. I have also seen cars that were filled while not level end up the same way. You would be surprised at how many cars we see that are over filled by shops that don't really know how to serivce these units.

Evaporator assembly, 997-573-901-04, retail price $1175.30. I do not know what a "blendo-servo" is referring to, but you can refer to this diagram for part numbers and prices: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2011/porsche/cayman/base-trim/2-9l-h6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat

It should be in the electrical section. We cannot reproduce it here for copyright reasons. Open your drivers door wide, then look at the side of the dash where it contacts the door panel, you should see the outline of a door/hatch which is held closed by plastic spring clips. Pop it open, the fuse panel is inside.

That information is in your owner's manual, along with diagrams showing how little doors on the side of the dash open to access them.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

That should not happen. I would suggest two things: Change your plugs and then have the vehicle scanned (using a Porsche specific scan tool) looking at the fuel trims. It may also be a good idea to have the cylinders with the missing plug electrodes bore scoped.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P1125 is the code thrown when the air fuel mixture on bank 4-6 becomes so rich that the DME cannot compensate. Most common faults are a leaking injector or the fuel pressure has gone very high.

A lot of the fasteners are single use types and should not be reused.

Do the electrodes look burned away (melted) or are they just missing?

Welcome to RennTech. Fan failures are fairly common, I'd start there.

Don't feel bad, a lot of different makes suffer from this issue, we see it all the time.

Your problem is a simple one; when the system is dimmed, there is still a low voltage on the wires, enough to illuminate the LED's, which require amazing little power to light, but not enough to do the same with the incandescent bulbs. Happens to be a common issue, requiring the addition of resistors. LED have such low resistance that we often see customer's that replace exterior running lights getting "bulb out" warnings on some cars because the system cannot even see the LED's.

Loctite 518 is the preferred sealant.

Firing order is 1-6-2-4-3-5. Possibly, but in any case possibly dead heater in an O2 sensor is going to alter how the car runs.

P1117 indicates a low current condition on on the heated O2 sensor ahead of the cat on bank 1. This can either be a bad heater or a wiring issue. Check the sensor resistance using a digital multimeter on pins 1 & 2; you should see 1.8-2.5 ohm, if you don't the sensor heater is gone and you need to replace the sensor. All of the rest of the codes refer to the misfire on cylinder 5, which could be a loose connector, bad coil, or fouled plug.

You are close to the edge on a go/no go retrofit with that amount of debris, particularly with that amount of ferrous material. The synthetic material can come from multiple sources, including the wear pads on the chain tensioning paddles. If your car was in my shop, this would be one of the cases where I would pull the IMS and open it up to see what is looks like before proceeding.

Run a magnet over the crap in the sump cover and see how much gets picked up. I'm not overly concerned about the plastic bits.

That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above. Thanks, JFP. Where are these primary battery cables and how would you test them. When the warning message came on it was during very heavy fog so there was lots of moisture in the air. I got a burning smell in the cabin, so I get the idea something shorted or burnt out!? I am referring to the heavy cables that run from the battery to a terminal junction and then down to the starter.

Yes, "AT" refers to " Austausch", which is factory reman replacement engine.

The car has defined lift points, which are outline in the owner's manual, and do not involve lifting the entire end of the car in one move. You also do not need customized jack stands for the car, generic stands with a simple hockey puck on top will do just fine. And yes, the car will tilt a bit while jacking it from the side, which is completely normal. As this had been a repeating question, search is always your best friend.

That is right at the very bottom of the acceptable range, so yes, it is low. And I would still suggest doing a voltage drop test across the primary battery cables for the reasons stated above.

That bearing is a cheaper alternative type bearing, not unlike what Pelican offered as a cheap substitute for the LN hybrid ceramic bearings. In essence, it is nothing more that a new OEM type bearing. Getting the debris and its source out of the engine is key to any path forward. The problem with the grit is not just the IMS bearing, it is every bearing surface in the engine. Full flow filtration, quality oil, shorten oil change cycles, and magnetism would be the best approach short of tearing the engine down. Thanks John. While this bearing is not a ceramic bearing, it does have dual rows unlike the Pelican single row + a spacer. Once there are debris, I think even with the best filtration, the lingering debris can still be picked up by the chains or sucked into the scavenge pumps, etc. so I thought fitting an open bearing sounds quite risky. It is a dual row steel bearing with seals on it, just like the OEM unit. The debris is definitely a threat to an IMS bearing without seals, which is why both Jake and LN have said for years that if the sump has appreciable grit in it, the engine is not a candidate for the retrofit. The principal reason they did this was to limit the number of LN IMS retrofit failures which were not caused by the bearing but by other factors which often conveniently get left out of internet postings. On the same subject, but closer to home, we have been asked more than once to do a retrofit on engines with obvious considerable ferrous grit issues in the sump that looked like the early to mid stages of an IMS failure. While we have always declined to retrofit questionable engines, a couple of the owners choose to go elsewhere or do the retrofits themselves using unsealed IMS bearings, which unfortunately did not work out (engine's failed in as little as 60 miles post retrofit), but these failures were not the IMS bearings, they were rod and main related, or due to the oil pump being chewed to Hell by the debris. So more than just the IMS is at risk in these situations. I have only ever head about a very small number of engines with obvious IMS problems that have lived any period of time after a retrofit and many, many oil and filter changes in a very short period of time, and no one really know how much longer they lived beyond the owner's last forum posting. When there is small amounts of ferrous debris in the sump, we will remove the IMS and inspect it; it the balls and race look like the surface of the moon, we stop there and recommend pulling the engine for further inspection. But more often than not, engine's with just a small amount of debris in the sump have been found to have near perfect IMS bearings, confirming that not all of the debris comes from the IMS.