JFP in PA

First, you need to know that we cannot see the files you attached. Second, while the dealers have been replacing both the RMS and IMS flange seals due to leaks for many years, it is still the official position of Porsche NA that you cannot change the IMS bearing on the early cars without taking the engine apart. As the direct result, many dealers simply change the flange cover and RMS seals and leave it at that. Repeated RMS failures is an potentially large problem. Porsche had a run of engine cases where the opening the RMS sits in is not concentric; they even developed a tool and procedure to test a leaking engine before installing a new RMS. The reason this is an issue is that if your engine is one of those (and there were quite a few) with non concentric RMS cavities, the only remedy is a replacement engine. That's umm.. quite scary, to say the least. Can Porsche NA help me with the VIN's of the defected casings? Any idea how I can find the root cause of the RMS leak? The IMS is a different story all together.. To my knowledge, there is no way of knowing which cars are affected until the leak occurs and the engine case is checked with the special tool. What happens with the case opening is not concentric is that the seal is offset to one side and the rear of the crankshaft basically beats the seal to death in a relatively short time frame. When this first started happening, Porsche switched the seal materials to PTFE from Viton, and changed the correct seal installation depth, which seemed to help in many situations, but not all of these replacements worked, resulting in continuing leaking problems. That is when they developed the "go/no go" tool that checks the RMS seal opening in the case for concentricity. If the opening is not round, there is nothing that can be done with the engine still assembled, so they began to replace these engines, many of which were still under warranty at the time. This was all written up in a very extensive article on the subject in Excellence magazine several years ago. Thank you, JFP. I spoke with the seller last night -- He mentioned that he never really notice any dripping (in 9 year of ownership - 43k miles), but the dealer said "there was sweat around that area" during a routine maintenance, so, they performed the replacement. Also, could you/anyone help with my other IMS-related questions please? Porsche of Motor city replaced the RMS and IMS seals in May 2013 (with 2 year warranty), as the owner noticed oil leak -- see attachment. The RMS and IMS was replaced again in May of 2015 under the above warranty -- see attachment. What I don't understand is, why didn't the dealership recommend an IMS bearing upgrade, since they were already in there. - Can the bearing be inspected during the replacement of IMS seal? Maybe they didn't deem the upgrade necessary? - Are dealers instructed to recommend the IMS upgrade when they're servicing anything else in that area? - Should I assume they have inspected the clutch and flywheel when they replaced the seals? - Have you guys experienced repeated leakage from the RMS? Again, Porsche Cars NA's official position is that the IMS bearing cannot be changed without disassembling the engine, so I seriously doubt they would recommend its replacement, much less upgrading it with aftermarket parts. When the flange is off, you can see the rear bearing seal and perhaps move the center bolt to see if it is very loose, but neither would tell you very much. They may have inspected the clutch, but if they did not note it in the paperwork, there is no way of knowing. Yes, I have seen repeated RMS leaks, usually as the result of the PTFE seal not being installed properly, but in my case they were not done by a dealer. Both the dealers and I use the factory RMS installation tool and recommended procedure's as this installation is very specific and has to be done correctly or they will leak: I have also personally seen two cars with non concentric RMS case openings; in both situations, because the car's were out of warranty, the owner's chose to have a new seal installed and then either sold or traded the car in.

First, you need to know that we cannot see the files you attached. Second, while the dealers have been replacing both the RMS and IMS flange seals due to leaks for many years, it is still the official position of Porsche NA that you cannot change the IMS bearing on the early cars without taking the engine apart. As the direct result, many dealers simply change the flange cover and RMS seals and leave it at that. Repeated RMS failures is an potentially large problem. Porsche had a run of engine cases where the opening the RMS sits in is not concentric; they even developed a tool and procedure to test a leaking engine before installing a new RMS. The reason this is an issue is that if your engine is one of those (and there were quite a few) with non concentric RMS cavities, the only remedy is a replacement engine. That's umm.. quite scary, to say the least. Can Porsche NA help me with the VIN's of the defected casings? Any idea how I can find the root cause of the RMS leak? The IMS is a different story all together.. To my knowledge, there is no way of knowing which cars are affected until the leak occurs and the engine case is checked with the special tool. What happens with the case opening is not concentric is that the seal is offset to one side and the rear of the crankshaft basically beats the seal to death in a relatively short time frame. When this first started happening, Porsche switched the seal materials to PTFE from Viton, and changed the correct seal installation depth, which seemed to help in many situations, but not all of these replacements worked, resulting in continuing leaking problems. That is when they developed the "go/no go" tool that checks the RMS seal opening in the case for concentricity. If the opening is not round, there is nothing that can be done with the engine still assembled, so they began to replace these engines, many of which were still under warranty at the time. This was all written up in a very extensive article on the subject in Excellence magazine several years ago.

This sounds more like the filter bypass system in the bottom of the filter canister has failed and oil is continually not being properly filtered. This is not that uncommon. You can replace the canister to get a new bypass system, or switch to the LN spin on filter set up, which has no bypass and offers 100% filtration at all times.

For some unknown reason, some of the earlier 986 cars (2000-2001) are very slow to reset the secondary air injection system's I/M Readiness flag, sometimes taking as much as 100 miles or more to reset after code clearing. People have tried a variety of techniques to overcome this, often with very limited success. If you can hear the system running on a cold start, and there is nothing else organically wrong with the car, I would just put some everyday miles on the car until you see a clear I/M Readiness test, then take it in for inspection.

If you do not cap the brake hard lines when you remove the flex lines & calipers, you will quickly find out why Porsche developed the method of using the diagnostic computer to run the ABS/PSM system while bleeding the system, as the entire contents or the hydraulic system will gravity drain and you will get air into the control network. You do not need anything elaborate to cap the hard lines, a piece of rubber hose with a tight fitting screw in one end will do the job. I personally do not like clamping the rubber soft lines, they are already soft enough to reduce the hydraulic pressure in the system. If you want to do the job right, plan on replacing the rubber flex lines with DOT approved braided stainless lines while you have the car apart. You see a noticeable change in how your brake pedal feels when these lines no longer pliable rubber.

First, you need to know that we cannot see the files you attached. Second, while the dealers have been replacing both the RMS and IMS flange seals due to leaks for many years, it is still the official position of Porsche NA that you cannot change the IMS bearing on the early cars without taking the engine apart. As the direct result, many dealers simply change the flange cover and RMS seals and leave it at that. Repeated RMS failures is an potentially large problem. Porsche had a run of engine cases where the opening the RMS sits in is not concentric; they even developed a tool and procedure to test a leaking engine before installing a new RMS. The reason this is an issue is that if your engine is one of those (and there were quite a few) with non concentric RMS cavities, the only remedy is a replacement engine.

That volume sounds about right. Periodic (every other year) siphon replacement of the fluid helps keep the system clean and the seals happy without going through the overly complicated method of removing the under trays, disconnecting the lines, etc.

Couple of suggestions: We have an excellent archive of "how to's" on just about every subject (DIY Tutorials tab at the top of the page), so "search" is your friend. This topic can be found here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/56-cabrio-top-hydraulic-fluid-step-by-step/ And yes, the syringe/siphon method on the steering fluid is fine. Considering the potential amount we may have saved you on projects already, now might also be a good time to become a contributing member.......

ATE Blue is no longer DOT and not even available in many states. ATE 200 is the same thing, without the blue dye that seems to give DOT agita.

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid. You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid. You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? Short of leasing a PIWIS for $20K (US) for the first year, the Durametric system is the best diagnostic tool available to a Porsche owner; but just be aware that the Durametric is a Porsche only system and will not work on other brands.

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

Porsche stopped producing the service manuals in print nearly ten years ago, so the only complete and legitimate version is via their PIWIS TSI subscription system: To get the site: - Go to porsche.com/usa - Click 'Service and Accessories' - Click 'Porsche Service' - Click 'Technical Service Information' You will then get the PIWIS TSI website and will have to sign up for a new account. Standard e-mail activation procedures apply.

A little more detail might be useful, like year, model, and exactly what trim you are referring to.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless you have opened up the hydraulic system and have gotten air into the ABS control network, it is completely unnecessary to activate the ABS/PSM system while bleeding or flushing the system.

If memory serves, the pre-tensioners have to be coded to the car, which is really setting the system controller to recognize them. This could be the source of your issue, and I believe will require the use of a PIWIS to accomplish.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I get nervous when you start swapping or mixing seatbelt components across different model years (your 2009 buckles and 2007 belts) as Porsche has updated these units over the years and I do not know about how compatible different components are. Are you reusing the car's original tensioners, or did they come from the breaker's yard? The Durametric system will clear these codes once the issue is fixed, but finding out where the issue lies is going to be the problem. As for lists of codes for the 997, Porsche used to publish such information (under copyright) for the older cars, but when all electronic in the mid 2000's and they are only legitimately available on their TSI subscription system.

The sound you hear may not be coming from that drain vent, but from what is behind it, your EVAP system. Do a search, multiple vacuum lines and valves that can all make sounds.

Drive cycle requirements depend to some degree on the condition of the car, and may take 100-200 miles before everything resets.

At a minimum, you should be testing the alternators' output voltage at idle; it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. A more ideal test would be to load test the unit to see how it responds to the electrical system demands, but that requires a special tool to accomplish. You could also have primary cable problems, which can easily cause this type of issue, and also requires testing to evaluate.

What tests have you done to isolate the problem to the alternator? It is a pretty pricey item to replace if it is not the source of your issues.

What code(s) is the car throwing?

If the car is an actual 2010 GT3 or GT3 RS, it should carry the 7.8.2 DME; a non turbo 2010+ DFI car would carry the SD13 DME. Have you tried manually selecting the 7.8.2 DME and see what happens? I find it rather odd that the Durametric system would select the SD13 unless that is what it actually found.

There are some cooler lines and what not in the way, but it is not that bad a job.

If you want to shift one of these engines at 8K RPM's, you had better plan on spending a lot of money. I don't think even Jake takes one of his "all in" big dollar engines that high.