JFP in PA

First, you need to know that we cannot see the files you attached. Second, while the dealers have been replacing both the RMS and IMS flange seals due to leaks for many years, it is still the official position of Porsche NA that you cannot change the IMS bearing on the early cars without taking the engine apart. As the direct result, many dealers simply change the flange cover and RMS seals and leave it at that. Repeated RMS failures is an potentially large problem. Porsche had a run of engine cases where the opening the RMS sits in is not concentric; they even developed a tool and procedure to test a leaking engine before installing a new RMS. The reason this is an issue is that if your engine is one of those (and there were quite a few) with non concentric RMS cavities, the only remedy is a replacement engine.

That volume sounds about right. Periodic (every other year) siphon replacement of the fluid helps keep the system clean and the seals happy without going through the overly complicated method of removing the under trays, disconnecting the lines, etc.

Couple of suggestions: We have an excellent archive of "how to's" on just about every subject (DIY Tutorials tab at the top of the page), so "search" is your friend. This topic can be found here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/56-cabrio-top-hydraulic-fluid-step-by-step/ And yes, the syringe/siphon method on the steering fluid is fine. Considering the potential amount we may have saved you on projects already, now might also be a good time to become a contributing member.......

ATE Blue is no longer DOT and not even available in many states. ATE 200 is the same thing, without the blue dye that seems to give DOT agita.

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid. You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid. You're awesome thank you! I guess that guy didn't know what he was talking about. If brake fluid flows through the ABS system and is not permanently trapped in there, then yes it makes perfect sense there is no point in actuating the ABS system when doing a flush. Would you still recommend buying a Durametric cable? are they useful for other applications? Short of leasing a PIWIS for $20K (US) for the first year, the Durametric system is the best diagnostic tool available to a Porsche owner; but just be aware that the Durametric is a Porsche only system and will not work on other brands.

Question all you want, but some of us do this for a living. The brake fluid still flows through the ABS/PSM systems even when they are not activated by the computer; this procedure was developed to remove any air trapped within the system control network after it has been opened for parts replacement. To do this with the Durametric system, you need to first go to the PSM section menu: There are 5 activations related to the ABS system: Start/Stop ABS Pump Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Rear Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Left Front Start/Stop Brake Bleeding Right Front You activate the pump, then each wheel one at a time, flushing that segment. On many cars, the system will only run for a second or two while that segment is flushed and then shuts itself off. This is normal. In all the years we have been doing this, I have never seen brake fluid "gel" in the ABS/PSM systems; by far, the bigger threat is corrosion from moisture in the fluid.

Porsche stopped producing the service manuals in print nearly ten years ago, so the only complete and legitimate version is via their PIWIS TSI subscription system: To get the site: - Go to porsche.com/usa - Click 'Service and Accessories' - Click 'Porsche Service' - Click 'Technical Service Information' You will then get the PIWIS TSI website and will have to sign up for a new account. Standard e-mail activation procedures apply.

A little more detail might be useful, like year, model, and exactly what trim you are referring to.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless you have opened up the hydraulic system and have gotten air into the ABS control network, it is completely unnecessary to activate the ABS/PSM system while bleeding or flushing the system.

If memory serves, the pre-tensioners have to be coded to the car, which is really setting the system controller to recognize them. This could be the source of your issue, and I believe will require the use of a PIWIS to accomplish.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I get nervous when you start swapping or mixing seatbelt components across different model years (your 2009 buckles and 2007 belts) as Porsche has updated these units over the years and I do not know about how compatible different components are. Are you reusing the car's original tensioners, or did they come from the breaker's yard? The Durametric system will clear these codes once the issue is fixed, but finding out where the issue lies is going to be the problem. As for lists of codes for the 997, Porsche used to publish such information (under copyright) for the older cars, but when all electronic in the mid 2000's and they are only legitimately available on their TSI subscription system.

The sound you hear may not be coming from that drain vent, but from what is behind it, your EVAP system. Do a search, multiple vacuum lines and valves that can all make sounds.

Drive cycle requirements depend to some degree on the condition of the car, and may take 100-200 miles before everything resets.

At a minimum, you should be testing the alternators' output voltage at idle; it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. A more ideal test would be to load test the unit to see how it responds to the electrical system demands, but that requires a special tool to accomplish. You could also have primary cable problems, which can easily cause this type of issue, and also requires testing to evaluate.

What tests have you done to isolate the problem to the alternator? It is a pretty pricey item to replace if it is not the source of your issues.

What code(s) is the car throwing?

If the car is an actual 2010 GT3 or GT3 RS, it should carry the 7.8.2 DME; a non turbo 2010+ DFI car would carry the SD13 DME. Have you tried manually selecting the 7.8.2 DME and see what happens? I find it rather odd that the Durametric system would select the SD13 unless that is what it actually found.

There are some cooler lines and what not in the way, but it is not that bad a job.

If you want to shift one of these engines at 8K RPM's, you had better plan on spending a lot of money. I don't think even Jake takes one of his "all in" big dollar engines that high.

By "not a good thing" I mean that you need to find and fix the problem before driving the car. These engines do not like being overheated, often the first event of this type is the last for that particular engine. Find out what is wrong and fix it, even if that means having the car flat bedded to a shop..

Either a bad water pump, leaking coolant fill cap, or a leaking surge tank; in any case, not a good thing.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Fault code P1400: Control position not adjustable Possible cause of fault - Control position not adjustable, vehicle too low or too high (no display) 1. Check mechanical and pneumatic components - replace damaged parts. 2. Check to see if other faults are recorded (e.g. 0774, 0775, 0776, 1780). Clear as needed. 3. Re-calibrate level control module.

Where is this spring located exactly? Do I need whole clutch kit to get it fixed? It is part of the pressure plate assembly, and yes, you will need to replace the clutch to fix it.

We have used them several times, they do nice work and it makes the install straight forward and trouble free.