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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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I think you will find that Mr. Cheetah dropped off the planet some time ago. We have had several posters try to contact him without success.
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He had them custom made by a machine shop. I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.
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Check with you local boat yards; a lot of sea craft use these types of windows.
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P4230 Boost pressure electric actuator on 997.1TT
JFP in PA replied to petes's topic in 997 TT, 997 GT2
Have your mechanic check the function of your Turbo's waste gate control system. It make be a sticking gate itself, or the controller. -
Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do you realize you are responding to a nearly eight year old posting?
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I come up with at 996-606-124-00 as the correct part for your car. Should retail somewhere between $250-275, or list for about $600 at a Porsche dealer.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: First thing you need to look at is the charging system (voltage excursions cause no end to ghost MIL lighting up). Load test the battery and check the alternator for correct voltage (around 14V). I would also scan the car for any other information.
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You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well.
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Sorry, but I am not familiar with the reporting values diagnostics tool you are using; Porsche systems fuel trims are rated according to reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for each bank, with the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75 (For example, an "in spec" "long term" FRA trim would be around 1.0 +/- 0.1 and an in spec "idle range" fuel trim would be in the range 0.00 +/- .2). Porsche also set the MAF values at 10-20 Kg/Hr. at idle, and 30-60 Kg/Hr. at 3K RPM (no load). If your tool is reading in gram/second, 6.8 gram/sec at idle would equate to 24.5 Kg/Hr., which would be a high air mass at idle (a possible lean condition). I also note that your secondary air system is reading "incomplete", which could be related to the problem you are seeing. If at all possible, I would suggest getting the car rescanned with a Porsche specific tool (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system).
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Rescan the vehicle, paying attention to both MAF actual values and fuel trims, then report back what you have found.
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What codes were you/are you getting?
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Only one: replacing it (there are no adjustments in the hydraulic system). Good time for the RMS and IMS upgrades as well.
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They are definitely after market, not factory.
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Shops remove air pockets using the vacuum filling tool, but it can also be done by "burping" the system by opening the cooling system vent valve located near the surge tank. The procedure is covered at the every end of this third radiator install DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/69-3rd-radiator-install-instructions/
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You most likely created a steam pocket in the cooling system during the first event which is causing the issues you see now due to an air pocket. The biggest concern is that something is wrong in the cooling system which caused the first event, and the fact that these engines should never be allowed to overheat, as that quickly leads to cracked cylinder heads or worse. I would not be driving the car, or even running it, until the reason for the first event is found. If you cannot work on it yourself, have it flat bedded to a specialist shop.
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Suggest posting a photo showing them as right now I am inclined to still say they are aftermarket.
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How high does it lift?
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"Loud" is the default position for a PSE.
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I would have to venture that they are not factory, as I have not seen anything like that in the cars we service, unless the owner(s) added it.
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Replacing Rigid Brake Lines
JFP in PA replied to 0586slb's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
You could also coat the new OEM lines to help limit the impact of winter salt. -
Are you saying they are not in this image on page 68 of this file: http://maben.homeip.net/static/auto/porsche/Porsche%20911%20996%20Owners%20Manual%20200205.pdf
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The CPS in on the passenger's side of the bell housing and is held in by one bolt. Run a voltage drop test across the cables, you should have no more than 0.5V loss.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Have you checked your crank position sensor? They are infamous for causing hot non starting issues on these cars.
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Replacing Rigid Brake Lines
JFP in PA replied to 0586slb's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
Companies like Eastwood and Stainless Brakes sell stainless steel brake line tubing in rolls (usually around 25 ft. in length). They also sell line end fittings. Because of the complex bends in the factory lines, I don't believe you can find pre-bent units off the shelf. You are going to need to extract your OEM mild steel lines and fabricate stainless replacements one at a time. -
As they are relatively new, experience is rather limited, but as they are all metal construction (rather than the composite end tanks and mounts on the OEM units), I would expect they should be stronger long term. Unfortunately, only time will tell.
