JFP in PA

A dealer, or well equipped Indy, should have the master key set and can also get you a replacement key for your current lugs.

On the 997, the lines are the same; some aftermarket come with the springs on all four to protect them. The threaded connection to the hard lines will actually slide back to expose the flared end of the hard line, so the hose needs to fit the line flare not the threaded fitting:

Needle nose pliers are the tool of choice for the clips. Make up four plugged rubber hose sections to cap the hard lines and you will be fine, just don't let the system drain or you will have more problems. I also would not replace the rubber flex lines with new rubber units, I'd go with braided stainless steel instead.

There are spring clips at #2 & 4 that need to be removed, and then you will need a proper fitting wrench to remove the lines: You should use a short section of rubber vacuum hose that is plugged to prevent the hydraulic fluid from draining out of the hear line section, and only open one line at a time.

Have your tech check the battery cables for voltage drop. Internal corrosion inside the cables can raise their resistance, particularly when warm, making the vehicle hard to turn over.

If it really is a "failed" LN unit, it would be a rarity. LN has only had about a dozen or so of the 12,000 plus installed units since 2009 develop problems, and most of them were traced to installation issues or other non IMS problems that generated metal grit that ultimately took out the bearing, so I would be rather circumspect of their comment without additional information. Removing the rear seal does help both the dual row and the non serviceable OEM bearings, but does not help the single row units much as they seem unable to deal with the mechanical loads. What stumps me is that to remove the seal, the car has to be in a configuration that is literally moments away from replacing the OEM bearing with a much better ceramic hybrid bearing, but just removing the seal is still, it is better than nothing. I'm confused. Are you saying that people are removing the seal on brand new LN IMS bearing? I'm putting a 3.6 996 engine into my 03 986S and unclear if I have dual row. It is 03 also. No, we were talking about the OEM bearings; no modifications are needed with the LN units. If your engine is an 03, it is a single row bearing; as such, it would also be a candidate for the LN IMS Solution, which is a permanent fix.

There is nothing really wrong with the external oil line, it is incredibly durable braided stainless and tucked up out of harms way.

I think your question would best be directed towards Denso.

Never said that heads can't be removed with the engine still in, but it is much easier with it out, plus you have access to anything else at the same time. My concern is both the amount of time it takes with the engine still in, and then possibly finding out he needs to pull it anyway.

Yes, we scanned the sensors during cold start, and they were fine. We always look at the sensor values whenever we scan a customer car, it only takes a few seconds and often heads off a soon to be problem. The customer also ran a log with his Durametric while the car was away from the shop. Everything looked fine, but the SAI flag remained until it ran enough miles to satisfy the DME. As mentioned earlier, from experience 2000-2001 cars seem more prone to do this than other years.

As mentioned previously, the car has to go through a number of cold starts, full warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut off, and full cool down cycles before it resets. People have promoted specific regimens like the one you mentioned for the 993 from time to time, but I am unaware of a specific one that works consistently on the later cars. My experience belies this. I had all readiness monitors reset except EVAP and SAI. With the help of Ahsai and the O2 voltage readings at cold start-up, it was judged that the slow response of one of the post-cat sensors was the likely culprit. So today, I put in a new Bosch sensor, started the car and ran it through a cold start cycle for 2 and 1/2 minutes sitting in my driveway. I then scanned the DME for smog readiness, and lo and behold, the SAI readiness check was complete and reset! So at least for my 2001 Boxster with a 7.2 DME, running a full drive cycle is NOT necessary to complete the SAI test and remove the flag. BTW, EVAP is still not reset, but that is not necessary to pass smog in California. I immediately drove to my long time smog tester who tested it and it passed- hooray! Thanks so much Ahsai and all the rest of you who have so generously taken the time to read my lengthy posts and offered their expertise, suggestions and insight. This forum is so much better in that regard the some of the others that I also posted on. Last week, we had a 2001 base car in the shop for emissions inspection that finally reset the SAI flag after 87 miles of driving over multiple days. And I've seen cars longer that that as well. It doesn't always work itself out with one run cycle.

It would be easier, and probably faster, to pull the engine; plus if you run into anything else it would already be out and accessible.

The DME might be able to run a bit more timing with out detonation, but any speculation about how much additional power it would make would have to be determined by dyno pulls. I would suspect, however, the gains would be slight enough to not be worth the effort. You might pose the same question to whoever wrote the reflash software.

180 degree is plenty for a street car.

Let's see, one had an MSRP of $85K, the other $175K. What do you think?

That is what we are here for. And if you want to add an additional layer of engine protection, consider getting a FilterMag to go on the outside of the spin on, with that in place, every drop of oil will pass through a strong magnetic field every cycle, removing any ferrous metallic grit so small it can pass right through even the best filters.

The valves look like this: The small black appearing tube sticking out to the right is where the vacuum line would attach. There is one on each exhaust system bank.

The issue with the OEM bypass is two fold: First, it is not really needed on cars running appropriate weight full synthetic oils. Second, and more importantly, the bypass can fail without any indication and allow unfiltered oil to circulate. We have found many cars with failed bypass units during normal oil change service, and while the replacement canister's are not all that expensive (about $40 retail), the replacement are no better than the factory units when it comes to the bypass failure rates. They simply die without any warning. The LN system uses a "full flow" (read no bypass) filter with a much finer (around 30%) media pore diameter that filters 100% of the oil 100% of the time. From direct experience (my shop regularly sees sub zero winter temps), none of our customers have had any oil starvation issues on cold start on daily drivers. The spin on filters all internally use metal capped filter media rather than the glued paper end caps of the OEM filters, and there is a wide choice of filters available to fit the spin on adaptor, including ones with media specifically designed for use with synthetic oils. You can even find versions with built in bypass valves if that worries you, but again from years of customer records, we have never seen a problem caused by the lack of a bypass on the spin on filters.

We apply the brake grease to the back of the pads before the shim is added, and then around the lip of the piston where it contact the pad/shim. Don't go nuts applying the grease, a little goes a long way. Thanks JFP. This brake lubricant is temp resistant to 3000f so I don't think it will run. Also it is meant to be safe on rubber so I don't see it causing any issues with the dust boots, those are around the lip of the pistons right? If it is a quality product made for use on brakes, no, it should not bother the boots. We just like to use enough to lubricate, but not so much that it might attract dirt or fall off and get on the rotors.

We apply the brake grease to the back of the pads before the shim is added, and then around the lip of the piston where it contact the pad/shim. Don't go nuts applying the grease, a little goes a long way.

Thanks, this is great! So you're suggesting that the valve cover should indeed go back on before installing this seal, correct? Also, do you recall if the installation tool applies pressure to the harder plastic ring on the outer edge of the seal, or is it snugged to the white cam adjuster, and applies pressure to the "inner ring" of the seal? That'll help guide what size socket I need to locate. The seal tool we use matches the outer diameter of the seal.

Nope! I'm referring to this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/94810593400.htm?pn=948-105-934-00-M100 OK. We use a seal installation tool, but a properly sized socket will do it.

That appears to be a generic "global" OBD II scan tool. What are you trying to do?

+1. These units can be quite dangerous, even to those that work with them regularly.

If you are referring to this: It should pop right in with gentle persuasion.