JFP in PA

Yep, those are the codes and the results I found as well. I've pulled the wheel liner and checked all the hoses and everything looks connected. I don't have access to a compressor at the moment to blow out the lines. In your experience could a valve/line malfunction cause my non start situation? Thanks Chuck It could; the codes popped for a reason which needs to be tracked down.

I know, I know... So was I but the wife isn't working right now, the holidays are here so money is tight and I had a bunch of things come up at once... brakes, strut, oil change, MAF sensor..... So I'm repairing as I can. Glad you got it sorted; like a lot of other stuff, the devil is always in the details. :thumbup:

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P0455 is the code for a major leak (read vacuum) in the fuel tank ventilation system (EVAP canister, control valves, etc.,) P0446 indicates the EVAP canister shutoff valve is below limits, usually meaning that the purge airline is blocked or that the flow resistance in the EVAP canister is too high. You need to recheck your lines running off the EVAP canister, making sure the are correctly connected, and then blow some compressed air through the purge line to clear any blockages.

I am always circumspect about strange codes that suddenly appear in conjunction with a battery failure. The code is for your waste gate control, but may be a "ghost code" triggered by the battery failure. I'd drive the car for a day or two and then try to reset it, or it may clear on its own.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Along with potential fuel system issues, the 2002 engine used a 7.2 DME and is VarioCam, while your 2004 car has a 7.8 DME and VarioCam+. To make this work, you either have to change the car back to the earlier DME, or update the engine to the later version of VarioCam. The 7.8 DME is not backwards compatible.

You may want to check and see if your vehicle has a metallic based windshield tint; such tints can totally block some radio signals such as toll tags and radar detectors.

No. for the simple reason that running it with water would only tend to push small bits further into the small passages. You've gotten most of it out, re-flush the heads and call it a day; you are not going to do any better without pulling the engine apart.

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded. Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing. Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear. I'm back. I went back to the car to fix this error and I'm having a brain fart. I'm now not sure of which retaining bolts you're talking about. I removed the strut by removing the caliper, axle at the transmission only and both eccentrics to allow the assembly to swing down and forward to have the clearance to remove the strut assembly. I marked the positions on the eccentrics before disassembly and placed them back perfectly afterwards. Even though you marked the eccentrics and/or other fasteners, you should not torque them to their final settings until the car's weight is sitting on the suspension, otherwise you are "pre-loading" the suspension in a non running configuration. You can do this with the car sitting on its tires, or by setting it down on a jack stand as close to the wheel carrier as possible, and then applying final torque.

The problem with impeller debris is not the radiators, it is the cylinder heads which have a bunch of small passages where bits can lodge, restrict coolant flow, and create hot spots that ultimately lead to cracked heads. When you did your flushing, did you try to collect as much of the impeller debris as possible to try and see how much you got out? If you feel you have recovered most of the lost impeller, I would put the car back together and run it. Totally dismantling the engine and having everything ultrasonically cleaned may be the ultimate pathway, but for many the view simply isn't worth the climb.

Silver_TT is spot on, you must use the Durametric cable, which houses proprietary firmware that allows you to access and clear codes with their software package; nothing else will work.

I will assume that you did not tighten the fasteners on the control arms until the suspension was fully loaded. Normally, I would suggest only changing out struts in pairs as the new units may have a differences in spring rates, which will result in exactly what you are seeing. Leaving the car this way for a long period can also lead to uneven tire wear.

Most shops have tools to check each sensor to make sure they are working. Suggest you look for an online version of your manual section in english to check you have correctly set the car's system before going further.

The proceedure should be in your owner's manual, but it sounds like you have already done that. At this juncture, I think you need to have someone look at and test your system; either the new sensors are not working, or something else is wrong.

OK, that frequency seems good, but did you put the system into "learning mode"?

Would you say that it just needs another bleed? To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper. Got it. Should i hit the calipers or anything to help get air out? No, the fluid movement is all that is necessary.

Would you say that it just needs another bleed? To be safe, yes. And this time, I would open the inner bleeder first, then the outer bleeder last on each caliper.

What frequency are the sensors you purchased operating on? Have you put the system into "learning mode"?

Glad it worked out for you. Rental cars are cars without an owner to care about them that are cleaned & cared foir by minimum wage workers, which is why we caution potental buyers to beware.

I sounds like you still had air in the system.

Appears to be the free wheeling pulley, and Amazon carries it for $250: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL0815N-New-Alternator/dp/B000IYAAYE

First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: This is probably not a very common occurrence, so your service manager is going to need to contact PCNA, who may want to send someone out to look at the vehicle. Obviously, all this is going to take some time. You always have the option to go over their heads and contact PCNA directly as well. A word of advice in all this: It is fine to be firm, but not to let the dialog get to the point where bridges are being burned. It may be a warranty issue, or it may not. In any case, your insurance should also cover it as well. Good luck.

On an 05, TPMS was an option, so your car is not set up for it, but you can add it with an aftermarket kit. And use of TPMS became a federal requirement as of 2007, states had no say in it.

Make them tight, but don't try to kill them.

That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan. It also has a "box" attached to it. Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on. IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it. But maybe I'm wrong? In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on. Ahsai is correct in his assumption that either the Durametric system or the OEM PIWIS should be able to trigger the fan to run. I think yours should look something like this: Jeff, no offense, but triggering a fan to run, which is already running, isn't going to tell me anything. If I already know the trigger wire is hot when it shouldn't be, I need to figure out why that trigger wire is hot. Hence why I asked the question, where is this motor control unit. It is NOT the one on the fan housing. If you look at the wiring diagram, the module has only three wires, and it is connected between both fans.....if you look on the fan housing, and in your picture, they clearly are never connected until you trace back into the car side of the harness. OK, let's look at the basics: There are a limited number of things which can tell the DME to make the fan run, and at what speed; the coolant temperature sensor (which you have already eliminated) and the AC system during cooling or cold defrost. I would take a look at the AC system controls; if the AC system is not calling for the fans to run, the DME has a problem and is causing the false triggering. On your model, the Durametric can also scan the AC system as well as activating the fans, so that might be worth a look as well.

That is the A/C fan, I'm talking about the large passenger side fan. It also has a "box" attached to it. Here is my original question, I've already taken the fan out of the car and plugged in 12v with no "signal" wire....the doesn't run....which tells me that the signal wire is commanding the fan to come on. IMO this rules out the fan and module attached to it. But maybe I'm wrong? In my ORIGINL post, the 2 signal wires show 12v and ~.3V......I think it's the 12v that's triggering the fan to come on. Ahsai is correct in his assumption that either the Durametric system or the OEM PIWIS should be able to trigger the fan to run. I think yours should look something like this: