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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not really, you can try a locate a local independent with a Porsche scan tool. or even obtain one yourself (they cost less than $300 and quickly pay for themselves). The problem everyone encounters with Porsche is that they use a unique diagnostics system that is unlike anything else. But with a Porsche specific tool you can capture data as well as activating systems in real time to get to the heart of a problem quickly. The Ethos system is nice but pricey, and also requires an expensive software package for Porsches, and even then is very lacking compared to a Porsche specific tool like the Durametric system or a PST II.
  2. As the problem started with the replacement of the ignition switch, I'd start there.
  3. For that side sensor, I would allow 2-2.5 hours for someone with direct experience in these cars. Question I still have is did you activate the VarioCam on that bank, hear the engine change, but did not see the cam angle changing? Reason I ask this is sometimes this code is not the sensor, but the cam actuator solenoid on that side not fucntioning, which is a different kettle of fish (it can easily be accessed from underneath,). I have not seen a "global" OBD II type scanner other than the Porsche specific tools I mentioned above that can individually activate the cam systems one at a time while watching to see the actual cam angle movement in real time. What type of scanner was used? You really do not want to be changing the sensor if it really is the solenoid, as that would be a waste of both time and money.
  4. The easiest way to test and confirm the function or lack thereof on the cam position sensors is with a Porsche specific scan tool, which can activate the VarioCam on each bank separately with the engine running so you can see the changes in cam angles in real time. To remove/replace the right side sensor, it can be done from above, but you need to remove the intake housing, drain and remove the power steering reservoir, disconnect the primary cables from the junction block, remove the AC compressor, and then you should be looking at the sensor which has a harness plug and held in by one bolt.
  5. That would be complicated as it would require getting a signal from the DME when the limits have been exceeded, or the use of an external monitor system coded to do the same. I also think that if you were using this as a "shift light", you would want it to be more prominent so you could see it.
  6. High side pressures are very ambient temperature dependent; Porsche actually publishes a graph that relates the high side pressures to ambient temperatures, and there is quite a swing in pressure with only a slight increase in ambient temps. That said, the system should hold 900 grams (31.75 oz.) of R134a when full, so you are probably already there.
  7. For which vehicle (always helps to include this)?
  8. You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well. I am not familiar with this. I will look it up and check it out. PCA is the Porsche Club of America, and the Palmetto region is your local chapter. Several member's probably have a Porsche specific scan tool, and would be willing to help out a fellow owner with a problem.
  9. I think you will find that Mr. Cheetah dropped off the planet some time ago. We have had several posters try to contact him without success.
  10. He had them custom made by a machine shop. I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.
  11. Check with you local boat yards; a lot of sea craft use these types of windows.
  12. Have your mechanic check the function of your Turbo's waste gate control system. It make be a sticking gate itself, or the controller.
  13. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do you realize you are responding to a nearly eight year old posting?
  14. I come up with at 996-606-124-00 as the correct part for your car. Should retail somewhere between $250-275, or list for about $600 at a Porsche dealer.
  15. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: First thing you need to look at is the charging system (voltage excursions cause no end to ghost MIL lighting up). Load test the battery and check the alternator for correct voltage (around 14V). I would also scan the car for any other information.
  16. You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well.
  17. Sorry, but I am not familiar with the reporting values diagnostics tool you are using; Porsche systems fuel trims are rated according to reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for each bank, with the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75 (For example, an "in spec" "long term" FRA trim would be around 1.0 +/- 0.1 and an in spec "idle range" fuel trim would be in the range 0.00 +/- .2). Porsche also set the MAF values at 10-20 Kg/Hr. at idle, and 30-60 Kg/Hr. at 3K RPM (no load). If your tool is reading in gram/second, 6.8 gram/sec at idle would equate to 24.5 Kg/Hr., which would be a high air mass at idle (a possible lean condition). I also note that your secondary air system is reading "incomplete", which could be related to the problem you are seeing. If at all possible, I would suggest getting the car rescanned with a Porsche specific tool (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system).
  18. Rescan the vehicle, paying attention to both MAF actual values and fuel trims, then report back what you have found.
  19. What codes were you/are you getting?
  20. Only one: replacing it (there are no adjustments in the hydraulic system). Good time for the RMS and IMS upgrades as well.
  21. Shops remove air pockets using the vacuum filling tool, but it can also be done by "burping" the system by opening the cooling system vent valve located near the surge tank. The procedure is covered at the every end of this third radiator install DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/69-3rd-radiator-install-instructions/
  22. You most likely created a steam pocket in the cooling system during the first event which is causing the issues you see now due to an air pocket. The biggest concern is that something is wrong in the cooling system which caused the first event, and the fact that these engines should never be allowed to overheat, as that quickly leads to cracked cylinder heads or worse. I would not be driving the car, or even running it, until the reason for the first event is found. If you cannot work on it yourself, have it flat bedded to a specialist shop.
  23. Suggest posting a photo showing them as right now I am inclined to still say they are aftermarket.
  24. How high does it lift?
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