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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well.
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Sorry, but I am not familiar with the reporting values diagnostics tool you are using; Porsche systems fuel trims are rated according to reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for each bank, with the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75 (For example, an "in spec" "long term" FRA trim would be around 1.0 +/- 0.1 and an in spec "idle range" fuel trim would be in the range 0.00 +/- .2). Porsche also set the MAF values at 10-20 Kg/Hr. at idle, and 30-60 Kg/Hr. at 3K RPM (no load). If your tool is reading in gram/second, 6.8 gram/sec at idle would equate to 24.5 Kg/Hr., which would be a high air mass at idle (a possible lean condition). I also note that your secondary air system is reading "incomplete", which could be related to the problem you are seeing. If at all possible, I would suggest getting the car rescanned with a Porsche specific tool (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system).
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Rescan the vehicle, paying attention to both MAF actual values and fuel trims, then report back what you have found.
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What codes were you/are you getting?
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Only one: replacing it (there are no adjustments in the hydraulic system). Good time for the RMS and IMS upgrades as well.
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They are definitely after market, not factory.
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Shops remove air pockets using the vacuum filling tool, but it can also be done by "burping" the system by opening the cooling system vent valve located near the surge tank. The procedure is covered at the every end of this third radiator install DIY: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/69-3rd-radiator-install-instructions/
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You most likely created a steam pocket in the cooling system during the first event which is causing the issues you see now due to an air pocket. The biggest concern is that something is wrong in the cooling system which caused the first event, and the fact that these engines should never be allowed to overheat, as that quickly leads to cracked cylinder heads or worse. I would not be driving the car, or even running it, until the reason for the first event is found. If you cannot work on it yourself, have it flat bedded to a specialist shop.
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Suggest posting a photo showing them as right now I am inclined to still say they are aftermarket.
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How high does it lift?
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"Loud" is the default position for a PSE.
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I would have to venture that they are not factory, as I have not seen anything like that in the cars we service, unless the owner(s) added it.
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Replacing Rigid Brake Lines
JFP in PA replied to 0586slb's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
You could also coat the new OEM lines to help limit the impact of winter salt. -
Are you saying they are not in this image on page 68 of this file: http://maben.homeip.net/static/auto/porsche/Porsche%20911%20996%20Owners%20Manual%20200205.pdf
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The CPS in on the passenger's side of the bell housing and is held in by one bolt. Run a voltage drop test across the cables, you should have no more than 0.5V loss.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Have you checked your crank position sensor? They are infamous for causing hot non starting issues on these cars.
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Replacing Rigid Brake Lines
JFP in PA replied to 0586slb's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
Companies like Eastwood and Stainless Brakes sell stainless steel brake line tubing in rolls (usually around 25 ft. in length). They also sell line end fittings. Because of the complex bends in the factory lines, I don't believe you can find pre-bent units off the shelf. You are going to need to extract your OEM mild steel lines and fabricate stainless replacements one at a time. -
As they are relatively new, experience is rather limited, but as they are all metal construction (rather than the composite end tanks and mounts on the OEM units), I would expect they should be stronger long term. Unfortunately, only time will tell.
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The front rotor and calipers are a bolt on swap and will clear your 18" wheels. The rear is another story; the S cars used a different wheel hub carrier and e brake assembly, which is completely different from the base cars. To use the S brakes on the rear, you will need to swap out the carriers for S carriers and then obtain the e brake system for the S car as well. Not a cheap proposition unless you have a wrecked S sitting around you can cannibalize, and don't mind a lot of work...........
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By far, most radiator failures we have seen happen when the molded plastic mounts snap off, either from prolonged vibrations or when some drives the nose of one of these cars up onto a parking curb.
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Life of LNE IMS retrofit bearing
JFP in PA replied to judgejon's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I would think that the mileage is the more important number. One of the largest strengths of the Solution is that it is permanent, which is a great point at resale. -
Should I use thread locker?
JFP in PA replied to Lee Quave's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
No, and there should be none on them from the factory. -
Both the alternator and AC compressor are in the way. If you have access to a Bentley manual, the R&R is fully covered with photos, starting on page 48-13. While there are some small differences on the later cars, it will give you an excellent overview of the process.
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I'd start by cleaning the pump off and filling it so that you can get a better look at were the leak is coming from, but I would bet it is where the tank seals to the pump, or the tank itself.
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It is not just a matter of finding a DME to match the engine; your chassis made wider use of CAN Bus communications for the control module network functions, while the older DME did not have as many control modules and routed communication's differently. There is a huge technology gap between the 7.2 and 7.8 DME's.