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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Might be the issue. I would also ask you to not double post on a single topic, which is a violation of forum rules.
  2. I just tried it and it took me to the DIY for replacing ballast resistors................
  3. Strange, I just tried it and it took me to the DIY for replacing the ballast resistors............
  4. Durametric does not report the fluid temps on a Tip, you need to either use a non contact pyrometer or a meter with a probe to get an accurate reading.
  5. I think you need tor realize that without actually seeing the car, or getting all of its background, it is nearly impossible to estimate the car's value; any number thrown out would simply be a quess. Do some research on similar cars to get a baseline, then get a PPI on the car before making an offer.
  6. Anytime.
  7. A small bead applied to both sides should do the trick.
  8. Questions are what we are here for. The answer to yours totally depends upon the condition of the metal surfaces; if they are perfectly true and free of imperfections (scratches, etc.), the gasket should be enough without sealants. However, if there are marks on the metal surfaces, or the surfaces are not completely flat, a small application of sealant would be advantageous. Just don't go nuts with the sealant, you would be surprised at how often we find gobs of excess sealant jamming up oil pump pickups.
  9. Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your second post has been removed.
  10. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Are you sure the difference in pedal feel is entirely due to the use of a different pressure plate? It could also be the result of the mechanics in the pedal itself (pivot point, helper assembly, etc.) and have nothing to do with the pressure plate.
  11. I don't see why you can't make you own, providing the material is oil resistant gasket.
  12. I stand corrected: Pat number 93010519801, about $2
  13. What year?
  14. No, that is the correct name, it is just for the earlier version or the 911, which is why it is always important to included the year and model information in such questions. What are you working on?
  15. The IMS flange on the M96/97 engine's uses in internal seal, so no gasket is necessary:
  16. The factory procedure to get air out of these systems is by pressure flushing them with the system activated by a diagnostic computer (dealers use a real PIWIS which is a lease only item and will set you back just shy of twenty thousand dollars for the first year, which makes the Durametric system a relative steal by comparison). Once air gets into the ABS/PSM control network, it is very difficult to impossible to get out without doing it this way
  17. P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit Potential causes: – Short to ground – Actuator faulty – Open circuit in triggering wire – Open circuit in B+ supply
  18. Without actually seeing the car, I would start by having the control network for the ABS/PSM checked out. There are a lot of valves and controls in that system, which are susceptible to build up from corrosion and can jam or malfunction. I would also try pulling the vacuum line to the brake booster when the brakes are locked and see if that releases them.
  19. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: When you mention that you previously had a problem with the brake pedal not returning, was that corrected with new booster, or was the car still doing it after the new unit was installed?
  20. Or a couple of good compression seals to go under the bulkhead fitting nuts.
  21. Why even bother? We flush these systems almost daily, and we do not siphon off the reservoir first, the way the Motive system works it simply is not necessary, and more paint jobs have probably been ruined while doing this than anything else.
  22. You will also need a small diameter barbed end bulkhead fitting to put into the cap.
  23. On your car, most likely the two small paddles that sit in between the two cams, just behind the cam chain sprocket.
  24. I would not be alarmed just yet, the range for these values is -/+6 degrees, which is a large window. Take the car for a good run, and then recheck the values before deciding anything, and if the values are still out, you need to replace some tensioner paddles.
  25. Did you thoroughly warm up the car (as in take it for a ride for 20 min. or so) before you checked your deviation values? Checking them on a just started car will often give you erroneous values. Even if these are your final numbers, only one is out of spec, and then only by a little bit. Normally, this is as the result of worn chain tensioner paddle pads, which can be replaced. And as the values are steady, there is not sign of impending IMS issues.
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