JFP in PA

The Durametric system is enormously capable, much like the car itself. It is capable of both evaluating and in many cases activating systems for test purposes. Along with being able to individually activate the VarioCam units, it can show you the real time effect on your cams, and even plot the data as a graph. It can also test run a lot of systems, such as running the front cooling fans on both their high and low speeds, as well as running the engine compartment exhaust fan. Dig around in its various menus and look at what it can do, it is a quality diagnostic tool.

Ok, let's start with some basics: When you say the cam angle is -11 degrees and the other cam is 15 degrees, are this "actual cam angles" or "cam deviation" angles? Your cam deviation specs are +/- +6 degrees at idle; if your engine is at 11 & 15 degrees (cam deviation values) you have a more mechanical issue as your cam timing is way out of whack. As you car is a 2000, it is a five chain motor, meaning that it has an extra set of cam tensioning paddles between the two cams (note the small chain connecting the two cams with the green arrows, about half way between the two green arrows you can see the wear pad of the five chain tensioner): The small wear pads can literally fall apart, throwing the cam timing off (these are worn pads next to new ones): I would suggest rescanning the car, looking at the cam deviation values at idle When these pad get beat, the cam deviation values go way out of spec, and the car throws the code you are seeing. You would also find small yellow/brown plastic bits worn off the pads in both your oil filter and sump. If the sump contains green plastic bits, they would be coming from the VarioCam unit itself, which can also do this, but is much less common than the chain paddles. While you are rescanning the car, also activate the VarioCam solenoids one at a time at idle; you should hear a pronounced click, followed by a major movement in the cam timing, along with a big change in how the car idles; this will show you if the VarioCam solenoids and the units themselves are functional. Your air bag fault points to an open circuit in the system, possibly in the steering wheel air bag or clock spring assembly.

You might be surprised, AAA were one of the first to train their drivers on how to correctly use the OEM tow hooks to flat bed Porsches without damaging them. Call your AAA rep and ask them about your battery concerns.

We do this all the time, so here goes: Tools 1 & 2 are an engine support bar (you must support the engine while removing the transmission from the car and leaving the engine in). Tools 3 & 4 are used for the torque converter unbolting process and then retaining it with the transmission while removing the trans (you really do not want to drop a converter, it gets very expensive very quickly). Tool 5 are hose clamps for the transmission cooler lines that have engine coolant running thru them.

P0430 is pretty specific. Before assuming it is the O2 sensor, I would check the voltage curves on the sensors for that bank with the engine running. If the voltage curves are following each other, the cat is gone. As the cats are rather expensive, I would also clear the code(s) and see if they return before jumping into changing any parts.

I don't think he has ever been here.

Remove the coolant drain plug near the thermostat housing (you will need a new crush washer for it). Disconnect the hose going from the thermostat housing to the front of the car. Realistically, unless you are going to refill the car with water, run it, and re drain it a couple of times, you are only going to get 80-85% of the old coolant out. You are going to need a minimum of 90 PSIG sustained air pressure to correctly run one of these vacuum fill systems. Your recharge mix should be a 50/50 mix of fresh coolant (we only use Porsche's stuff) and distilled water (about $1 a gallon at the supermarket); never use tap water. In a 5 gallon bucket, you can comfortably mix 2 gallon each of coolant and distilled water.

Check with them and ask if they did a PIWIS reset of the system, you may find that they did not and just wrote the PCM off as needing replacement. The reset only takes a few min. of diagnostic time, which has got to be one Hell of a lot cheaper than a new unit.

PIWIS ( Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System) is the name for Porsche's computer diagnostic system, it is capable of analyzing every system in the car and resetting various systems when they act up or need to be replaced. All dealers and many independent shops have them.

It probably needs a reset with a PIWIS unit.

"Check the rubber stops on the rear lid after racing"? Wonderful.............

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: OK, let's start with the basics: Did you put the system into its "service mode" before jacking it up and working on it? Did you change any of the system sensors while doing this repair? Did you recalibrate the leveling system after the repair?

P0430 is often an aging cat code, but can also be triggered by an intake of exhaust leak. I would clear it again and see if it returns, if it does, and you are sure there are no leaks, you are going to need a cat.

P1128 and 1130 are bank 1 & 2 codes for an over rich condition. While it could be MAF related, it can also be fuel pressure too high, leaking injectors, or the EVAP purge valve being stuck open. Your surging idle is probably caused by disconnecting the battery, which puts the system into a "relearn" mode. If you want to test your MAF, use a Porsche diagnostic tool or other capable OBD II scanner to read its air flow readings.

Knowing how much effort (and cost) is involved in trying to make more proven power with the normally aspirated versions of the 996, you need to take most claims for large improvement from intake, exhaust system, and DME reflash with a really large grain of salt, particularly when starting from a stock configuration.

Call around to a couple of alternator repair shops, they may have the bushing lying around.

Because participants do not seem the be able to play together without violating forum rules, this topic closed and locked by moderator

If that is the one he is looking for, a bone yard alternator may be his only option.

What metal bushing?

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: This is obviously not normal behavior. When all this work was being done on the car, did they refill the system using the recommended vacuum filling system, or did they just fill and "burp" it? Reason I ask is that we often see cars with air pockets in the cooling system behaving this way.

You never mentioned the year and model, which is always helpful in answering such questions, but in general these car's charging systems put out between 13.5 and 14.5V at idle. It sounds like you may have one of two or three problems: the battery is on its way out, or the voltage regulator is on its way out. You may also have battery cables with high resistance. I would have the battery and charging system load tested to see what they do under stress, then do a voltage drop test across the battery cables, and then proceed on the basis of those results.

If the gear box was not exposed to heavy loads or high temps, you are probably fine. I would make the suggestions to re-change the gear box oil again in about 500-1K miles, just to make sure all of the wrong fluid is flushed out of the system. The Pentosin product is a hydraulic fluid, not a high shear lubricant which is what the gear oil is. As long as nothing was galled or bearings overloaded during the mix-up, and all of the Pentosin is flushed out, the gear box should be OK. Thank you for your reply and your recommendation for re-changing the oil. The ambient temperature was around 18 centigrade. During my 100 km drive I used high revs and sequential changes several times, but it wasn't as if I was racing. Would any potential damage show immediately or would this appear after a long time? Hard to say. As I mentioned, the two fluids are entirely different in their physical characteristic's, but you caught it fairly quickly. I would keep an eye out for two things: weird noises (signs of unusual bearing or gear wear), or gear oil leakage (hydraulic fluids are formulated to soften and protect internal seals, which the oil seals in the gear box may not appreciate).

If the gear box was not exposed to heavy loads or high temps, you are probably fine. I would make the suggestions to re-change the gear box oil again in about 500-1K miles, just to make sure all of the wrong fluid is flushed out of the system. The Pentosin product is a hydraulic fluid, not a high shear lubricant which is what the gear oil is. As long as nothing was galled or bearings overloaded during the mix-up, and all of the Pentosin is flushed out, the gear box should be OK.

Pretty sure the shop that makes the bars (http://liftbars.com/) makes the end fittings as well. We have a set of them and everything on them looks like they came from a single source.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You can start by not using cheap after market parts and source TRW arms, which are the same as factory.