JFP in PA

P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 (RKAT2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause: - Incorrect main charge signal - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Mechanical fault in injection valves - PCV valve leaking - Cap of oil filler neck leaking - Leaks in exhaust system - EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open) - EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults I would start with the easy ones - the oil filler cap and the PCV.

You can't, the exhaust system needs to come off.

Just remember that if the car turns out to be the 22MM center bolt, you can still them remove the rear seal on the IMS bearing so that it is lubricated by the oil mist inside the engine. While not a perfect solution, it does seem to improve the longevity of the oversized IMS bearings,

2005 was a transitional year for the M96/97 engine's IMS bearing. Some of the cars carry the single row serviceable (read can be changed without disassembling the engine or even removing it from the car), while other carry the oversized non serviceable (read the engine must be disassembled to retrofit it) bearing. The car's with the serviceable bearings carry the single row bearing, which has the highest failure rates percentage wise, cars with the non serviceable large bearing have a low failure rate, but are still known to fail. In reality, any M96/97 engine with a factory IMS bearing has some probability of IMS failure, but some are more prone than others with the 2001-2005 single row's being the worst. Unfortunately, the only proven method to know which bearing is in the engine it to pull the gear box, clutch, and flywheel, and look at the IMS bearing flange center bolt. No other methods (VIN, build date, engine number, etc.) have proven even remotely reliable. The oversized non serviceable bearing used a 22 MM center bolt and was the only one to use that size, so it is easily recognizable once it is uncovered.

There should be no condensation above the coolant tank in the rear trunk, that sounds very much like you have a bad tank cap. The latest revision tank cap ends in "-04". The cap could be the entire source of your coolant loss issue. The aftermarket coils should not have been able to damage the car in anyway other than to make it misfire. You comment about having to weld up you catalytic converter is very important, because a leak in the exhaust system, even a small one, will often cause an engine to show an overly lean condition because it allows air into the system which the O2 sensors see as a mixture problem. You need to go over the exhaust system from the cylinder heads to the second O2 sensor looking for any signs of a leak (he can use his smoke wand for this). As for where you can get your EVAP valves, as well as a new tank cap, give board sponsor Sunset Porsche a call, great pricing and top notch service. D chunking shows up usually with coolant in the oil. Unfortunately, because of where this fracture occurs, you usually can only find it either with a bore scope, or by pulling the engine apart.

Yes, you can smoke test components on a running car, you need to do it with a small wand which you place near the suspected item and see if the smoke is drawn in. The EVAP check valve is like a light bulb, it either works or it does not. You pull it out and see if it closes when it should; if it does not, replace it. Usually, they are stuck open by carbon build up, which cannot be cleaned out. D Chunking is the failure of the cylinder liners near their ends. This is an extreme example of what can happen: In its early stages, the chunk is still there, but the liner is cracked and allows the engine to pull coolant into the cylinder. I have addressed your other questions in a PM.

Just be aware that source has made more than one mistake in their instructions. If you want a quality technical source, get the Bentley 996 manual, which is much better.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: That 11MM below the fill hole only applies to 5 speed Boxster transmissions; yours should be filled until it comes out the fill hole. And be sure they only refill it with the factory lubricant, not aftermarket stuff.

If that smoke is coming from the air filter box, which is not evident in the video, it is normal. As I mentioned, the problem of small vacuum leaks is that their cumulative impact can be large; you need to track them down one at a time and eliminate them. These cars are rife with plastic vacuum lines that chafe or crack with age and drive shops nuts trying to track down the leaks. When we get a bad case in the shop, we often resort to pulling off the intake and running all new plastic and rubber lines, just to eliminate all possibilities. Not a cheap remedy, but one that works. You need to also be careful about where replacement parts come from, particularly the vacuum reservoir tank and the AOS. We have had so many issues with aftermarket units that we no longer will use them. The AOS is particularly bad in this respect. Even with factory units, we still vacuum test every AOS we install, just to be sure, as we have also had some problem OEM units as well. A fresh, correctly functioning AOS should pull between 4-7 inches of water on a cold start, then settle down to around 5 inches as the car warms up. If we put one in and it does not meet those criteria, it comes back out again and another new one goes in, otherwise you can get problems ranging from vacuum leaks to high oil consumption. We have also seen vacuum reservoirs that seemed good in the car, but completely fail a bench vacuum test as well. You also need to be aware that there are systems that are not in their normal operational modes unless the car is running, the EVAP control system is a perfect example. With the car shut off during a smoked test, the control valves are not in the same position as they are when it is running, which can lead to erroneous conclusions. There is also a EVAP check valve under the intake that is notorious for causing problems which can only be tested on the bench. So a static smoke test cannot be the sole determinant of what is wrong, you need to dig further. Your comment about the coolant system concerns me. Early Boxsters with the 2.5L engine had cylinder liner issues that ranged from liner slippage to complete liner failure (commonly referred to as "D-chunking"). A completely tight cooling system can go literally years with no additional coolant required. Something is not right; youe cooling system needs to be pressure tested, and you need to find out where the coolant is going.

Without knowing the volume of air they are passing, and answer is not possible. But they are leaks that should not be there, and leakage effect is cumulative across all leaks, and in the second video you had considerable smoke billowing up at the beginning of the video, which is not a small leak.

In general, your thoughts about a failing cooler leading to oil in the coolant are correct, but when you shut the car off, there is no oil pressure but there is about 18 PSIG of coolant pressure so it can also go the other way, albeit slower. As for the AOS, you can pressurize the coolant system to 18 PSIG and pull both hoses off the AOS, and you should hear or feel a leak.

I think you have leak that needs to be fixed.

OK, as for the lines to blow out, refer to my system diagram above, you want to blow out lines 1 & 3 after disconnecting both ends of the lines. As for your mechanic's comment that "those two small leaks are not significant enough", I'm sorry but that is nonsense. Any vacuum leak is significant, this system has to be tight. You could easily have a few "small" leaks that are in fact equivalent to one massive leak. And by your comment about the AOS J line, are you referring to the one that runs from the top of the AOS to behind the throttle body, or the long one that runs from the other side of the AOS and under the intake manifold?

You have three possible ways to get coolant into the oil: 1. A crack somewhere in the cylinder heads or engine case; which you appear to have eliminated with your leak down. 2. Your oil cooler may have failed (it is an oil to coolant heat exchanger), which can be tested by pulling it and running a vacuum test on it (if it is good, both channels should hold high vacuum). 3. Your AOS.

Did you attempt to read other channels as well? Never mind, I see that you have already tried that. I would say that the system controller is having issues or for some reason the Durametric system cannot communicate with it.

OK, first you need to measure the vehicle's calibration point values and determine what the values should be: http://www.photobykent.com/downloads/cayenne/Cayenne-Level_Control-Calibration_Points.pdf Nest you need to connect your Durametric system: 1) connect your ODB-USB cable and open up your Durametric program. 2) browse down the tree on the left side to "Level Control" and select it 3) then select "Adaptation" to be on the calibration screen 4) select "read" . The box below the channel number will say "wait..." Your air suspension will go up and down. 5) when the suspension stops moving and the box changes from "wait.." to "enter". Enter the measurement (in mm) from the wheel displayed. Believe first is "FL" or Front, Driver. Then hit "save". If it accepted your entry, the value in the box will change from "enter" to "learned". If not, then will have to reenter or restart the program/laptop. 6) click the channel "up" button to move on to calibrate the next wheel. 7) do this same step to the other 3 wheels 8) Once all 4 wheels have confirmed "learned", press the channel "up" button one more time to channel "5". Enter "1" to save changes. If the system accepts your changes, it will say "control position learned" in under a minute. If it just sits there and does nothing, you may have to start over from scratch. Sometimes it takes a few times to stick. 9) You will then hear the air suspension adjusting to your new settings - hopefully that means air purging. Enjoy.

If you wish to have an off line conversation, send me a PM. During normal business hours, I am usually way too busy in the shop to take phone calls. Not to underestimate your capabilities or facilities, but you also need to take into account that all of this work will require a lot of specialized tooling, as well as considerable technical knowledge. The IMS swap alone will require removal of the transmission, clutch, and flywheel just to be able to see which type the engine is carrying.

For those looking to the aftermarket to say some $, stay with well known suspension component suppliers like TRW or Moog and you should be fine. Quite often, these suppliers are also OEM to Porsche (TRW for one is). But to jagman1's point, also check with board sponsor Sunset Porsche, and you just may be surprised at the prices you can get the actual Porsche parts for.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: TRW is a quality brand, you would be fine with them.

An entirely different can of worms. The M96/97 engine Porsches (basically all of them with the exception's of the Turbo and GT cars which use a different engine) have an intermediate shaft that is driven by the crank, and which drives the cams. On the back end of the shaft is a bearing which gets replaced with an aftermarket hybrid ceramic bearing as the OEM bearing is prone to failure. The process to do this is known as an IMS retrofit. For a more detailed explanation: http://imsretrofit.com/

Yes, because your cam deviation values are way out of whack before the VarioCam activates; that is a sign of tensioner pad wear. When we get a car in for IMS retrofit, the first thing we do is check the cam deviation values; if they are out of spec, we won't do the IMS unless the other issue is addressed as well, because we know where this is going and it ain't pretty, plus we don't want to be held accountable for that when it happens. We don't do things half assed, we either do it right or not at all.

You definitely have a timing problem, as your can deviation values are way out of spec at idle, which is before the VarioCam does anything. This is most likely the tensioner wear pad issue. Your VarioCam system is not activating on bank 2 (cam angle does not jump to over 20 degrees), so either the solenoid or the VarioCam unit itself is out. Did you hear the "click" I mentioned when you activated the VarioCam on bank 2? If not, I would start with that solenoid. In any case, you need to get to the source of the out of spec cam deviation values; your timing is far enough out that you could get into serious trouble if it moves further. This is going to require pulling cam covers to inspect the wear pads, which will need special cam holding tooling (the cam cover forms one half of the cam bearings, so a holding tool in needed to keep from potentially snapping the cam in half when the covers are removed). This is a "home made" version of the same tooling in place on an M96 with the cam cover off:

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: OK, let's start with the basics: Did you put the system into its "service mode" before jacking it up and working on it? Did you change any of the system sensors while doing this repair? Did you recalibrate the leveling system after the repair? JFP, I replaced my upper control arm and in doing so, I had to detach the air hose on the suspension to the air inlet valve. I put it all back together again but as I drove around I get an air suspension fault. I thought it had to do with the fact that I didn't replace the air inlet connection to the valve so I bought a new valve all together. I replaced it yet I still get the error after driving around for about 2 minutes. I did NOT put it in "Service Mode" because I didn't know I had to. Is there some sort of re-calibration I have to do? I have a Duratech analysis tool but I didn't see an option for the air suspension. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Year and model of the vehicle is always useful when answering these questions. And yes, the Durametric system can recalibrate the ride height control system, and yes you should have put it into service mode before jacking it up or working on it.

That was were I was coming from. Actually, there was a report of a "typo" in the Durametric software that reported codes with transposed digits for some codes. I would suggest two things: 1 Recheck the car using a loaner OBD II scanner from an auto parts store, many do this for free, and see what codes it sees. 2 Contact Durametric and let them know exactly what their system found and what the OBD II system saw. I would also like to know what you find as well. You may have something minor that the system is misreporting.

Are you sure on the code number?