Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,732

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    In general, no, because an air leak into the engine cases would lower the vacuum signal, not raise it. This is specific to measuring the amount of total vacuum the AOS is putting on the system. When the AOS goes bad, the vacuum level gets too high (greater than 5 inches of water), not lower, which would be a sign of a leak elsewhere in the system.
  2. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, it is that simple. Everyone in the Porsche repair trade knows of the fragility and problem prone nature of the AOS, and should be ready to properly test them. This is what you should find at any Porsche shop worth its salt: It consists of a digital manometer (accurate +/- 0.1 inches of water), some rubber tubing and a modified oil fill cap. Screw the cap on the car, hook up the manometer, and start the car; you immediately know the health of the AOS. I also hope you ordered an OEM AOS replacement, we have had very poor luck with aftermarket units.
  3. JFP in PA
    Which is why I suggested running a manometer test on you AOS. Going all the way back to some of your earliest posts on this, I noted what appeared to be an overly high flow volume in your MAF data, which is exactly what a low level AOS leak would give you. You need to get that AOS either tested (just a few min.), or simply replace it (several hours work). I know what I would do if it was in my shop; it would have the manometer on it in about 1 min. to confirm or deny the AOS as problematic.
  4. JFP in PA
  5. JFP in PA
    Or you could simply go to board sponsor Sunset Porsche, and get the real thing at a great price.
  6. JFP in PA
    They need to connect a digital manometer in place of your oil cap and measure the vacuum in the engine case; on cold start it should vary between 4-7 inches of water, but when warmed up should read 5 inches. Any higher and it is a sign of a vacuum leak in the AOS.
  7. JFP in PA
    How difficult was it to remove the oil fill cap? If it required some effort, you have a bad AOS (a good AOS would show a vacuum signal of 5 inches of water, which is relatively weak).
  8. JFP in PA
    Many.
  9. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Other than by long term corrosion, I have never seen anyone shear those bolts off. Something must be misaligned or otherwise incorrect.
  10. JFP in PA
    Your "PIWIS" sounds like one of the many Durametric system clones sold on the internet. A real Durametric system would give you the option to activate the ABS system for bleeding/flushing purposes. You can always get one of the real Durametric systems and do it yourself sooner.
  11. JFP in PA
    If you do that, you will also lose any data that could have helped you permanently correct the problem. Bad idea.
  12. JFP in PA
    Without a scan for what is causing the issue, fixing it quickly becomes a potentially expensive guessing game. Do you have access to an OBD II scan tool of any kind?
  13. JFP in PA
    When we get one in the shop with a bad bleeder assembly, the car gets an entirely new tank; you can sometimes replace just the valve itself, but repeat failures are far too common. Get a new tank, you will save yourself grief in the long run, and do not buy an aftermarket tank, get a Porsche unit. We have seen way too many aftermarket tanks fail after short periods to ever consider using one.
  14. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Yes, you need to be careful about what year roller you buy as there are multiple system changes (CAN bus, VarioCam, fuel system, etc.) between the model years. You might want to look for someone with an IMS or engine failure, as the those cars should otherwise be in good condition. Breaking up the car is always a crap shoot as some pieces would move quickly, others not so much, and the process takes a lot of time and effort. Very few people ever benefit from going this route.
  15. JFP in PA
    The Durametric system will activate your ABS system during a bleed/flush to remove any trapped air, which is always an issue after draining the system, eliminating the need for two people. I am also not completely convinced that using two people would work on a car that had been fully or even partially drained, as activating the ABS system with a diagnostic tool activates components that pumping the pedal simply will not do.
  16. JFP in PA
    A quick scan of the car with a Porsche diagnostic tool would give you better information, but it may be the sensor.
  17. JFP in PA
    Hello Loren; Thank you for your reply; EEPROM is still working; reading and writing; but it has been deleted, so it is empty. Do you think a dealer can reprogram the key? The car is programmed to accept the key, which is what Loren is referring to.
  18. JFP in PA
    Not really, some of these "stealth" units would be so difficult to remove, it simply isn't worth while, and their removal would actually diminish the car's value.
  19. JFP in PA
    If it is a radar detector, the sensors have to have a line of sight front and rear. I'd start looking into the front grills with a flashlight.
  20. JFP in PA
    So how much was the labor? -- peer I hope you realize that you are responding to a nine year old post................
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The tank is molded plastic.
  22. JFP in PA
    The indy came highly recommended by other Boxster owners, and seems to me to be operating genuinely in the best interest of the car. They went over the complete refilling operation with me and they say they did all the correct steps for proper fill - correct temperature, shift the gears, fill again, etc. I only question because I didn't see it with my own eyes so I'm including this in my list of "could it be this?". Well, not to slight your shop in anyway, but one of the most common problems with the Tip is both fluid choices and filling procedures; more often than not, we find recently serviced Tips with problems are not filled correctly, or have the wrong fluid in them. Because the filling and testing procedures take time, a lot of shops seem to try and short cut them to save money. Point taken. I'm not invested in defending nor persecuting this shop because, so far, I have no evidence of malfeasance. Fluid level is something I am very interested in checking, so I'm gearing myself up for being able to do so the weekend after this. I've read up on good ways to place the car on jack stands so I'm pretty clear on that. What I'm not sure about is which fluid I should get. Is the factory fill a ZF or Pentosin? because I'd like to use what was in the tranny from new because it did its job so well. Look at it this way: ZF makes transmissions, not fluids, so they are buying it from someone (most likely Pentosin) and relabeling it with their name.
  23. JFP in PA
    The indy came highly recommended by other Boxster owners, and seems to me to be operating genuinely in the best interest of the car. They went over the complete refilling operation with me and they say they did all the correct steps for proper fill - correct temperature, shift the gears, fill again, etc. I only question because I didn't see it with my own eyes so I'm including this in my list of "could it be this?". Well, not to slight your shop in anyway, but one of the most common problems with the Tip is both fluid choices and filling procedures; more often than not, we find recently serviced Tips with problems are not filled correctly, or have the wrong fluid in them. Because the filling and testing procedures take time, a lot of shops seem to try and short cut them to save money.
  24. JFP in PA
    That product is listed as being for a VW with a Tip transmission, so it would seem reasonable it should work, although the factory fluid is usually either a Pentosin or ZF product rather than the Febi product they used. As for correct fill levels, you need to ask whomever did it to explain how they checked it as there is a specific procedure that entails running the trans through the gears while getting it up to a prescribed temperature.
  25. JFP in PA
    Possibly, reset the code and see if it returns.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.