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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. WHT 001 937 is the correct part and both the fill and drain are the same.
  2. If you are referring to the one with the knurled shaft, it is used to move the cam during reallocation. The upper right image are designed to hold the cams in place after the cover is removed, but can also be used during reallocation.
  3. We have a collection of various size rubber caps that are fuel resistant that we use for this and other temporary purposes such as capping brake lines to keep the system from draining:
  4. It is called a "siphon". We always capped the line to prevent this.
  5. Get the battery tested.
  6. Amazon sells them, as do almost any auto tool outlets, very common tool in just about any well-equipped shop: Unfortunately, it is very easy to trap air in Porsche systems, and getting it out is just about an everyday question here and on other Porsche technical forums.
  7. Perhaps, but the best way to remove any trapped air is with a vacuum filling system, which can be used on an already full system to "burp" out any air.
  8. Both problems point to a dead or partially dead hole, question is why? Pull the plug and look at it, if it is black and sooty, it isn't firing consistently. Question then is why, the EVAP system is incapable of killing a single cylinder, so it is something closer to that cylinder (coil pack, plug, injector, harness and connections, etc.).
  9. In order to do any tests on this valve, you need to get access to it, so by that point you might as well pull it for bench testing. but that valve malfunctioning should not cause a single cylinder misfire on cylinder #6. Are you completely sure you don't have a coil/plug/injector issue on that hole?
  10. You need to get a wiring diagram for the car to find that out.
  11. Consider becoming an contributing memeber..................
  12. Not if there is also a short on the same wire. Test for continuity and presence of ground on each wire while the harness is disconnected from the DME and the sensor.
  13. But did you test the wires between the sensor and the DME for continuity or shorts to ground? Your code is for an open circuit, indication of a wiring discontinuity.
  14. My wife and I are major contributors to the museum's river otter program, and we also both volunteer as time permits with us living several states away. And when you get a chance, try Salsa's second location just up the road in Lusby, definitely a favorite. Small world..............😉
  15. Misread your original post, there should be nothing that obstructs the dipstick, but you should also know that Porsche released updated dipsticks for the early cars to get people to correctly lower the oil level in the sump a slight amount to prevent excessive oil level from killing the AOS. I would also STRONGLY recommend getting the real factory part from a dealer, Pelican is well known for pushing ill-fitting aftermarket parts as "OEM". These are the updated factory parts: Similarly, Porsche also reduced the oil fill level on Boxster models. We do not have engine and vehicle vin numbers identifying when this change occurred during Boxster production, however vehicles fitted with the 996-107-014-01 and 996-107-014-02 revision dipsticks should set the oil level half way between the min and max level marks. Vehicles with the updated 996-107-014-03 dipstick should have their oil levels set to the maximum level. On the Boxster dipsticks, only the last five digits of the part number are indicated on the part (last two being the revision number). The Boxster -03 revision is shown with two grooves for o-rings, but only one is used, where the -01 and -02 revisions only have a single o-ring groove. And yes, the vacuum level loss due to the dipstick not being seated and those codes could be related. And just as a by-the-by, I know Leonardtown very well, love Salsa's restaurant, and the Calvert Marine Museum on Solomons Island..................
  16. Word of advice: Multiple aftermarket parts sellers, like Pelican who is one of the worst in this respect, sell what they call "OEM" manufacturer parts like the coolant tanks and AOS units, which is at the best, very misleading. The manufacturer in question may be an OEM supplier to Porsche, BUT NOT FOR THE PARTICULAR PART IN QUESTION. In the case of your tank, Mahle is an OEM supplier to Porsche for engine parts like pistons; but they do not supply the coolant tank. This, unfortunately, is quite common in the trade, so you need to know what you are getting before you spend your hard earned $. In my shop, we do not do business with any vendors that behave this deceptively.
  17. And I just checked the outfit you bought yours from, it is NOT a factory unit, it is aftermarket. Get the real thing and be done with it.....................
  18. OK, the vacuum gauge will bounce as air pockets get pulled out; but if the bounce continues to happen, something is opening and letting air in, which should not happen..... And if the bleeder/tank assembly is not a factory Porsche part, get rid of it and get a real one. We have NEVER had any luck with aftermarket tanks.
  19. You moat likely have an air pocket in the system which is causing the issue; this is not good and you need to get it out. The normal procedure to refill this cooling system is to do it under vacuum using a special tool like the Uview Airlift system which evacuates the system and then pulls the fresh coolant mix in under vacuum, eliminating any chance of air being retained. This tool can also be used to pull entrapped air out of the system the same way.
  20. That is a weird set of faults: C141 is for no power to te PCM C140 is for the the dash communications display 8023 is full with the AC air recirculating flap motor C131 is for a gateway controller fault I almost looks like the dash internal communications are suffering electrical faults, possibly due to a problem with the system gateway contoller. I may be time for a PIWIS scan, which would give more definitive information.
  21. I'm amazed that a battery that old is still good, but the results are the results. At this juncture, I would suggest putting the battery back in the car and then using the Durametric, clear all the codes. Then take the car out for a run and see what, if any, codes come back. Sometimes these cars throw a bunch of codes for unknown reasons after sitting for a while, but if the codes are real, they will return and we can go from there.
  22. You need to post that in the "lost radio code" forum section, it won't be answered here.
  23. Depends upon what model radio is in the car, Loren can probably answer that better as he handles radio codes, but I don't think a 997 does..........................
  24. Modern digital load testers typically simply readout "good battery", "questionable battery" or "bad battery"; load test voltage readouts are a bit "old hat". They will also give you % data on "state of health", "state of charge", remaing CCA, and internal resistance values; on an old-style load tester, I would question the viability of any battery that drops below 10.5 volts during the test.
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