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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    There is no real "checking" of the IMS without pulling it, and then it needs to be replaced anyway (you cannot reuse one that has been extracted from the engine). As yours in an 01 you will need to check the flange plate in order to determine which style (single or dual row) is in the car before ordering a replacement.
  2. JFP in PA
    It can be done with the engine in, but it is a bear; almost like building ship in a bottle. With the engine out and on a stand, it is much easier. Just how are you planning to "check the IMS"?
  3. JFP in PA
    Ok, there was definitely no crud in there, just light deposits/staining. Fuel pressure on both pumps was ~60 psi. Though P2189 is a drivers side code (I think?) I tested on the much more accessible passenger side port. It looked like the two sides of the rail were just forked off the same stream, so I assume this was fine? I have not cleaned the MAF yet...getting it out of the lower tube is such a PITA, and you didnt think that was the culprit anyway, so Im waiting on that attempt. Can I test for vaccum leaks by spraying electrical cleaner (since it is plastic safe) on all the PCV/evap hoses and looking for jumps in idle? Yes, you can use cleaner for this, but be careful as it is flammable. I would also check the voltages on the O2 sensors, just be sure the sensor is functioning properly.
  4. JFP in PA
    Neither cam is currently out of spec, and the code is not currently active: P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Dirt in oil circuit - Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty - Oil pressure too low - Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster - Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty Besides the above or dirt in the oil, an intermittent cam position sensor problem on bank 2, which should not trigger until the cams go +/- 10 degrees.
  5. JFP in PA
    Cats can rattle and still work, but they won't do that forever.
  6. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but that link goes nowhere.
  7. JFP in PA
    OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated. It should be similar to the one above. Take a look at the horn ring contactor behind the wheel, they are pretty well known for acting up. Should be a DIY in the archives.
  8. JFP in PA
    https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/listsofsources
  9. JFP in PA
    OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated. It should be similar to the one above.
  10. JFP in PA
    Sometimes it just takes miles............
  11. JFP in PA
    You probably would do better with the OEM units, try Sunset Porsche, a board sponsor.
  12. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Porsche 16 inch wheels will not fit on cars that came from the factory with cross drilled rotors as they are too large in diameter.
  13. JFP in PA
    Do you have a relationship with a shop that could get them for you? Can you buy online from and out of state facility?
  14. JFP in PA
    From the engine control module, which like the dash controller may now require recalibration (PIWIS).
  15. JFP in PA
    Your post is fine here. A lot of the information handled (and displayed) by your cluster comes over the CAN bus system. Your original radio was also a MOST fiber optic unit. Replacing the radio, the installers could have upset the communications system the car was designed to use, which is probably why you are getting the cluster code. It may also be related to your strange distance readings. If you still have the original radio, I would reinstall it, clear all the codes and see what comes back.
  16. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You have many questions, but let's start with the majors: If the car is running 220-225F, it is overheating; it should run that hot, even when being beaten. You need to find out why this is happening as heat equals death to the M96/97 engine. I would start by pulling the front fascia and cleaning out around the radiators (they are a collector for everything from leaves to dead birds). I would also seriously consider switching the car to a 160F thermostat, and check under the water pump looking for crusted coolant, a sign the pump is on the way out and it needs to be proactively replaced. Send the Fuchs gear oil back and get the factory lube. Porsche uses a unique fluid that is made to their specs, it is fully synthetic and keeps the gearbox happy, particularly when cold. Never skimp on the oil used in these engines. For your location, I would use either Joe Gibbs DT40 (5W-40) or Castrol Edge with Syntec technology in a 10W-40 weight. Both offer higher film strength, and the Gibbs product has the highest ZDDP level you can find in an oil. Replace the serpentine belt and check all of the pulleys, idlers and the water pump for play or noise.
  17. JFP in PA
    Most states allow the recycling of these parts, and according to your state statues on the subject: "The Arizona State Legislature states in Statute 13-3728 that it is illegal for a person to purchase or sell a used catalytic converter "unless the purchase or sale is in the ordinary course of business by a commercial motor vehicle parts or repair business in connection with the sale or installation of a new catalytic converter." This law does not apply to automotive recyclers. Violation of the statute is considered a misdemeanor offense." To me, that reads that a private individuals cannot buy or sell them to each other, but an authorized recycler can. Arizona was one of many states that limited who can buy or sell used converters primarily because of converters being stolen and sold for scrap. You still may want to check this yourself, just to be safe.
  18. JFP in PA
    I would look at used cats from a wrecking yard; they can be had cheaply (even cheaper than aftermarket units) and often come with a limited warrantee.
  19. JFP in PA
    Have you checked the fuel pressure?
  20. JFP in PA
    The list of possible fault for this is extensive, can you provide any additional data or diagnostic scan information as well as the year and model of the vehicle.
  21. JFP in PA
    Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your second post has been removed.
  22. JFP in PA
    PCV can become full of crud internally over time, requiring that they either be cleaned out or replaced.
  23. JFP in PA
    Go back to my #2 post above and go down the list, all the possibles are there. Sorry, that was pretty obvious I suppose :) From what I can find, fuel pressure should be 4 BAR (58 psi)? Incorrect main charge signal = MAF? Should I give it and its connector a cleaning? I'm away from the shop at the moment, but I think that fuel pressure is close if not correct. I think they are referring to your charging system, but cleaning the MAF never hurts.
  24. JFP in PA
    Go back to my #2 post above and go down the list, all the possibles are there.
  25. JFP in PA
    As you might imagine, daily driver's in PA tend to look like they have been sandblasted, thanks to PennDOT's road care procedures. And being a legendary "pot hole paradise", we also tend to keep suspension component companies in business as well. I recently had a customer sell his 458 Ferrari Spider because he could not find decent roads to drive it on during good weather and simply got tired of trying to avoid pot holes.
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