Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. It varies by year and model, but going in through the wheel well us usually the easiest. No special tools are required and the hose ends have pinch to release fittings on them, just be sure to lightly oil the seal rings inside the new hose ends before installing.
  2. I think it is way past time to stop trying to repair the hose and just replace it. When they get that bad, they are past their sell by date.
  3. I have some questions regarding the Clutch Bleeding portion of this tutorial. How do you know if you need to bleed your clutch? Are there signs that this needs to be done? 3 weeks ago I bled my brakes with the Motive Power Bleeder but I didn't do the clutch bleeding. Should I go back and do this? Or is there a test I can do to know if my clutch needs to be bled? I have a 2004 996 with manual transmission. And just so I get a better understanding...the clutch uses brake fluid and the brake system master cylinder to operate? Thanks in advance. Both the clutch and the brakes share a common fluid reservoir, so when you bleed the brakes, you should also do the clutch at the same time.
  4. Most low speed problems with the PDK have been software related. Have your dealer scan the car to see what version it is currently running, and update it if necessary. You didn't say how many miles are on the car, but you could also consider at least a clutch oil change while you are there as well.
  5. After you clean it the filter canister, use a bright light and carefully inspect it for any impact damage. We have had a couple leak because something hit them and cracked the plastic housing.
  6. No. With the engine running, and the trans in gear, the front pump is running at full pressure and everything is full.
  7. Sounds like a bad misfire, but without a scan and the codes triggering the MIL, anything would be a guess.
  8. By-the-by, did you ever get your RMS straightened out?
  9. Duncan is correct; the only time you would need to pull the third tensioner would be if you cannot get the flange off after pulling the original two, and that very, very rarely happens.
  10. Well, you can try sending your photograph to the dealer's parts department, and maybe they can give you a better answer.
  11. Behind the wheel well liner on that side is the EVAP canister and fuel tank filler. Most likely, you are hearing noise from that. Have a read through this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/
  12. Try looking here: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2000/porsche/boxster/roadster-s-trim/3-2l-h6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat Remember, some parts are not available separately, you may need to buy a larger component to get it.
  13. No. #3 is called a lower control arm, #6 is the track bar. http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2011/porsche/cayman/s-trim/3-4l-h6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/suspension-components-scat
  14. The Pro version is capable of activating the cruise control system, but the Enthusiast cannot.
  15. Yes, but always use new bolts only.
  16. I'd suggest using board sponsor Sunset Porsche's online parts site ( http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/ ) to check part numbers for both vehicles; if they are the same, the part is the same.
  17. With the 9A1 engine, the IMS is gone and no longer an issue. Only downsides (customer comments) is the car's race car like ride, which can sometimes get old for everyday use. The car should also have center lock wheels, which can restrict aftermarket wheel selection. The ceramic brakes, while terrific on the road, can get very expensive to maintain.
  18. We have seen a couple, and heard or read about others. While not an everyday occurrence, when it does happen the results are devastation with broken rods and/or crankshafts and split cylinders. Not pretty.
  19. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: It is not at all unusual for some early Boxster to go a lot of miles before the I/M Readiness test clears, we have seen customer's cars go a couple hundred miles before it reset, which is why we caution owners not to try to fix problems, or experiment with diagnostic systems right before going for emissions testing.
  20. Failures of recently installed, and even right out of the box AOS units is unfortunately an all too common occurrence. We test every unit we install, and the one on every car that comes into the shop; some seem to last forever, others not so much, and to date we have found no way to separate one from the other. While a bad or failing AOS can inhale more oil than a good unit, the larger concern is having the engine ingest liquid oil and hydro lock. Long term burning of excessive oil can shorten cat life, but the liquid oil issue is far more critical.
  21. If you have a leaking cam tensioner, they do have crush washers underneath them. That said, you cannot just remove the tensioner and replace the washer, the process is more complicated in order to prevent the cam timing from moving during the process (item # 6 & 12 ) : I would first try torqueing the unit to 30 Ft. Lbs. and see if the leaking stops. If not, the washer will need to be replaced.
  22. While these cars are well known for not liking aftermarket gas caps, you should get a different code (large EVAP system leak) for a bad gas cap.
  23. You need to disconnect the long line under the intake at the purge valve (#1) and canister ends, then blow air through to clear it, I would also check the valve itself, and they have been known to stick as well.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.