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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Is that with the car running?
  2. JFP in PA
    Are the gauges you have 134A or are they set up for R12? You will need access to the factory service manual for the system in order to look up the correct pressure/ambient temperature relationships and reset the pressure correctly. If the system is already overfilled, you will need access to a certified gas recovery system to remove the excess gas to get down to the correct levels. The Durametric system is capable of reading and diagnosing AC systems, but the level varies by model and year somewhat.
  3. JFP in PA
    First of all, simply adding gas to a system without knowing what pressures it is already at (particularly the high side in relation to the ambient air temps)is asking for a disaster. There are ways to test these systems to determine if the current gas charge is correct or not. You may have already over charged the system which could cause it to go into very expensive and potentially dangerous component failure. Separately, your multi zone control system may be stuck or malfunctioning, which could be the basis of your original issue. If you do not understand these systems, or lack the diagnostic equipment to work on them, take the car to a pro who does, before you make a bad situation worse.
  4. JFP in PA
    In the UK: http://www.wrightune.co.uk/imsguardian.html North America: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ln-engineering-oil-contamination-warning-ims-guardian-sr.-p4034453786lne/10814439-P
  5. JFP in PA
    Because of the amount of plastics used in the head light assembly, each bulb has to have a clean path to a chassis ground. I would to continuity and resistance test between the ground leg of the bulb socket in question and a solid chassis ground. You should see no resistance and continuity with a multimeter.
  6. JFP in PA
    I would check for any corrosion in the bulb socket, and also check the ground for the light. For an electrical diagram, you will need the Bentley manual.
  7. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Something is not right in the reassembly; the rack should not behave as you describe it. It should feel slightly tighter than when you started, but not so tight it does not try to self center coming off a corner.
  8. JFP in PA
    I do not see this listed, are you saying this is in the manual that came with the Cayenne? Mine says to just check it every 40k. If it needs replaced at 60k then I am at my mileage limit, yet the belt literally looks brand new with no signs of wear, cracking or hazing. And it probably will continue to look "brand new", right up until it leaves you stranded at midnight in the rain. Change it, they are not that expensive.
  9. JFP in PA
    Weird, P0102 indicates that the MAF sensor is flowing below limits, which is usually either a bad MAF or a wiring issue. P1340 indicates that your timing chain is out of position on bank 1. All of the rest of the codes say all the bank 1 cylinders are misfiring. I would start by doing a complete recheck of the wiring harness connections on bank 1. Doing the plugs, you may have knocked a connector loose.
  10. JFP in PA
    I think you may have the wrong fluid. The spec for the car is Esso ATF LT71141 or equivalent only and I don't see ZF Lifeguard 6 meeting that spec. Check the containers you got it in, but I think that may be at least part of your issue. EDIT: OK, I've now read further on ZF fluids, and ZF Lifeguard 6 is not the correct fluid for your car. Problem is that you are now going to have to do multiple drain, fill, run, drain agin cycles to get all of it out of the car (gravity drains only get about 40% of the fluid out). Good luck.
  11. JFP in PA
    Pulling the engine is not at all difficult, depending upon how you are equipped and your level of mechanical expertise. It drops out the bottom of the car.
  12. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: What ever it is, with knocking sounds, it is not good. I would not be running the car, but I would be scanning it to see what pending codes are stored. If you just did the plugs and coils, you may have reversed one or more of the coil connections and it is firing out of sequence.
  13. JFP in PA
    If you have metal shavings in the oil, the codes don't really matter; the critical issue is where are the shavings and noise are coming from. I would stop running the car immediately, check the shavings you have to see if they are ferrous; I would also pull the engine; something is not good and is not going to get better.
  14. JFP in PA
    It would help to have the year and model of the car in question. Are you absolutely sure the fluid is the correct one for the transmission?
  15. JFP in PA
    Thats cool, Ill make a site donation instead. Im not ready to go that far, but thanks for the optimism :D And thank you for your continued support of RennTech :thumbup:
  16. JFP in PA
    Thanks for the offer, but it is completely unnecessary. Glad you got it sorted.
  17. JFP in PA
    Not personally , but I did read of a case some time ago.
  18. JFP in PA
    That is always a possibility.
  19. JFP in PA
    The procedure's are exactly the same for both systems.
  20. JFP in PA
    A Porsche specific diagnostic tool is always the best approach as it can seen things a global OBD II system cannot. I have not idea why the car's level control it not working properly, but it also may need recalibration.
  21. JFP in PA
    I don't think it is necessarily your DME, but several of those faults look to be communications issues on the CAN bus network.
  22. JFP in PA
    Not so much the comfort level, but maybe Im not understanding the simplicity of access :huh: Can I get to the terminal and primary wire just by removing the tire and wheel well liner? If not, and you have to go through the first parts of the alternator removal process, I dont see how you could do that, hook everything up, and still have the engine run. Edit: Im sure your way is much more thorough and appropriate, so dont think this is a counter argument :cheers: I just read the instructions that came with the load tester. It says to just hook up to the battery terminals and when you rev to 12-1500rpm it will run a charging system draw to test the alternator. That method is a bit more basic and will show the voltage response, but not validate the diodes functions or provide an amperage output value. For simplicity, try their methodology and see where you are before digging in further.
  23. JFP in PA
    To fully test the system, you need access to: Both the positive and negative battery terminals (for load test device heavy cables). The terminal lug on the back of the alternator where the primary wire attaches (for checking diode ripple). The alternator primary wire itself (for an amp meter to clamp around and measure current draw). If this is outside your level of comfort, I'd suggest taking it to a shop to have it tested.
  24. JFP in PA
    Wait, so I need to tear in and get alternator access to test the alternator? Yes, you need to access the primary wire on the alternator.
  25. JFP in PA
    Does the alternator test need to be done at the alternator terminals? That sounds dicey... Clamps on the battery, but with an amp meter clamped on the positive alternator lead to read amperage draw, which shows how the unit is responding to the load on the battery. Again, many auto parts stores have this setup for free use by customers, so check you local before buying the hardware.
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