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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not really. The new thermostat may be a bit hotter than the old one, unless you used the LN low temp unit. I would also hook the car up to a Porsche diagnostic tool and check the coolant temp with that, the dash gauges in these cars are not known for their accuracy.
  2. To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed. Thanks for your reply. In the Owner's Manual that came with my car it says the Boxster (2.5L engine) has the warning light on the speedometer. My car is the Boxster S (3.2L) and the manual indicates the Cruise Control Indicator Light is on the 'warning lights section'. You are partially correct, this is the "official" image of the dash that is in your car: There are two cruise indicators possible, 3A and 3B. 3A is for the base car (which is a 2.7L, not a 2.5L which was discontinued a couple years earlier), 3B is for the 3.2L S car. In any case, again, the parts listing does not show anything about "with cruise" or "without cruise" part number option; so I would still look for either a missing or non functional blub.
  3. Such information is the copyrighted intellectual property of Porsche and cannot be published on a forum without their permission.
  4. To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed.
  5. Hind sight is always 20/20. When these mounts go bad, the rubber isolator typically tears, allowing the mount to go metal to metal, which is what makes the noise.
  6. Yup, front motor mount. You symptoms are the common ones when this starts to fail. Not a bad DIY swap as well.
  7. So you are looking for the standard values you would expect from a properly running vehicle. In their most condensed form, you would find them in the specifications section of the OBD II diagnostics manual for the specific vehicle, which is difficult to find as Porsche has stopped printing them several years ago. A second source would be in the Bentley manual for the 996.
  8. For checking for leaks, would putting the Motiv Pressure Bleeder on it, and taking it to 20PSI and leaving it on over night work to check for leaks? It might, but it may also mislead you somewhat as the braking system operates at hundreds of PSIG, which the Motive system cannot duplicate.
  9. It sounds like you have an alarm system malfunction. Get the car scanned with a Porsche diagnostics tool like the factory PIWIS or Durametric, specifically looking at the alarm system, there should be stored faults for the last ten beeps you have heard that should point towards the fault.
  10. I would not let the trans fluid go that long. Because you can only do a partial drain on these transmissions (the converter retains a large amount of fluid that will not come out in a gravity drain), we adopted a 5 years/50K miles maximum service interval for these cars, with an even shorter interval for a car that is tracked. Fluid is cheap, transmissions are not; and we have seen too many Tips acting up that had literally black as ink fluid in them which smelled burnt long before the factory recommended service intervals that responded positively to being serviced. On occasion, we have had to drain, fill, run, drain again, etc. multiple times to get them back to normal operations.
  11. First of all, pressure bleeding does not cause problems, we use it all the time in the shop without issue. As you are uncertain of the braking system, I would replace the bad bleeders and lines, then try bleeding it with the ABS/PSM system activated, just to be sure there is no air in the system control network.
  12. +1. I run a business using the Durametric system as well, and have always found it to be an excellent tool. And for the previous poster, don't get your hopes up, Porsche does not make the PIWIS system for Apple hardware either :oops:
  13. The holder for the sensor is a rubber grommet that slips inbetween the manifold runners the sensor slips into the center. Nothing exotic, but it is essential. Look under the intake runners for both the sensor and the grommet, they are both very easy to knock loose.
  14. In the engine compartment, mounted on the intake manifold, is the temperature sensor for the fan: It is possible that this sensor has either fallen off its mount (common) and is laying on something hot, or is going bad. I'd start there.
  15. Looks like you need a security or "tamper proof" torxs bit which has a recess in the center to go around the pin:
  16. Normally, fuel delivery problems do not manifest themselves in this manner, but if you think you have a filter issue you can either run fuel pressure and delivery volume tests, or simply replace the filter itself. Usually, this is an intake air leak issue. Intake air leak issue in between the AFM and throttle body? Or broader like Intake manifold leak? I've once sprayed carb cleaner around the engine when it was idling to see for any change, nothing... It could be anywhere in the intake system; a loose connection, crack in a plastic vacuum line, an injector O-ring, vacuum accumulator, etc. You need to do a complete search as these things are often very hard to spot.
  17. PID's are something the car's control computer has programmed into them, not something that can be added to a phone app. If you cannot see the PID you are looking for, the computer is not programmed to display it, and you need to use an external tool (non contact pyrometer, thermistor, etc.) to get the reading.
  18. Water pumps are maintence items at around 40K miles unless they start to leak or make noise earlier. Surge tanks are less mileage dependent, some actually going the life of the car. By far, the biggest reason we see for early failures of either, and in particular the tanks, is the use of aftermarket parts. We have seen third party water pumps not make it 3K miles, and aftermarket tanks so poorly made that they would fail right out of the box, which is why we only use the factory units.
  19. I've seen this misinterpretation on several forums and it's a common mistake. The "B2=20" single micron format reads differently than the multi-micron formats listed for standard filters (values are reversed). What it actually means is: "B2=20" -> "95% efficiency @ 2 microns" "2" = micron size & "20" = filtration ratio If you don't believe me, listen to the folks at Cummins filtration: "A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10=50. This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 microns equals a ration of 50." That's from a Cummins technical training flyer dedicated to filter beta ratios, there's even a quiz question about this (#2). Feel free to take a look... Cummins Filtration Training Flyer Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You are correct in your assessment of what the Beta Ratio implies; since that posting two years ago, we have found "beta ratio" to be completely misunderstood by most posters. From your attachment, the key on how it works is as follows: A Beta Ratio may be given for a filter as B10 = 50. (Depicted in this way on many filters) This simply means that the Beta Ratio for 10 micron equals a ration of 50. Now divide the ratio, in this case 50 into 100, ie. equals 2. Subtract the answer, in this case 2 from 100, the answer is 98. This filter is 98% efficient at removing 10 micron particles.
  20. Normally, fuel delivery problems do not manifest themselves in this manner, but if you think you have a filter issue you can either run fuel pressure and delivery volume tests, or simply replace the filter itself. Usually, this is an intake air leak issue.
  21. They are also very handy around the shop for checking what you can touch, and what you shouldn't until it cools off. Saved a lot of blisters already...... :eek:
  22. Non contact pyrometer or a kitchen temp probe are the DIY favorites. Thanks! I need to get one of those.. You can find one on Amazon for less than $20:
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