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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Spraying anything onto the cables will result in a stained headliner, the cable tray is not sealed in any way. The cables are lubricated with a high temp petrolatum like product that is designed not to drip when the roof gets hot.
  2. There are only two things that can cause what you are seeing, either the drive motor is on the way out, or the cables are binding. On most models, you can get at the motor without taking the headliner down, the cables require removing the headliner to drop the frame, and is not a fun job.
  3. Like the Tiptronic before it, the PDK can benefit from early service. The clutch oil becomes fouled with solid debris from the wet clutch packs, which the filter removes. And like any filter, the more it filters out, the less it flows.
  4. My car is 6 years old and want to replace the PDK clutch oil. To replace the oil filter - the whole pan should be replaced. Is this pan serves clutches compartment only? Visually it looks to me like it covers the gearbox/cogs part - if it's true than gearbox/cogs oil also has to be changed. So what's the situation with it? The pan in the photo mounts on the bottom of the gear box, but contains the clutch oil filter (gear box is not filtered). Removing the pan does drain the gear box. In order to change your clutch oil, you need access to a PIWIS unit during the process; it is not a simple drain and refill.
  5. Why not just take the bulbs out?
  6. That is with the wing, the lid alone is 99651201101GRV, at around $760.
  7. Board sponsor Sunset Porsche lists it on their parts website: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2001/porsche/911/carrera-trim/3-4l-h6-gas-engine/body-cat/lid-and-components-scat
  8. There is no way of knowing what it is actually for without at least seeing it. Even then, we may never know. How did you end up going this route when an OEM replacement retails for the shipping cost you mentioned?
  9. It does on some cars, but not all. Also not sure if this function is limited to Pro version; would need to check with Durametric to be sure.
  10. Welcome to aftermarket body panels........... :eek:
  11. You should have the dealer check your VIN to see if that recall applies to your car. It may not.
  12. The system is never going to be happy with a seat belt fault, so that problem needs to be addressed and corrected first. Yes, the system needs to be coded to the car, your Durametric should be capable of this on a 997.
  13. Oil looks clean, but you definitely had a coolant intermix, and you still don't know the source of the metal in the oil filter. You are not out of the woods just yet...........
  14. That definitely is a classic intermix. Any photo's of the drained oil?
  15. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: You will find that those are single use barbed fittings which you can only source from Porsche as a rail assembly, or off a wreck. A new one retails at around $390.
  16. Check your crank position sensor. They are well known for acting up when warm and not letting the car start, but not throwing any codes.
  17. Are the gauges you have 134A or are they set up for R12? You will need access to the factory service manual for the system in order to look up the correct pressure/ambient temperature relationships and reset the pressure correctly. If the system is already overfilled, you will need access to a certified gas recovery system to remove the excess gas to get down to the correct levels. The Durametric system is capable of reading and diagnosing AC systems, but the level varies by model and year somewhat.
  18. First of all, simply adding gas to a system without knowing what pressures it is already at (particularly the high side in relation to the ambient air temps)is asking for a disaster. There are ways to test these systems to determine if the current gas charge is correct or not. You may have already over charged the system which could cause it to go into very expensive and potentially dangerous component failure. Separately, your multi zone control system may be stuck or malfunctioning, which could be the basis of your original issue. If you do not understand these systems, or lack the diagnostic equipment to work on them, take the car to a pro who does, before you make a bad situation worse.
  19. In the UK: http://www.wrightune.co.uk/imsguardian.html North America: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ln-engineering-oil-contamination-warning-ims-guardian-sr.-p4034453786lne/10814439-P
  20. Because of the amount of plastics used in the head light assembly, each bulb has to have a clean path to a chassis ground. I would to continuity and resistance test between the ground leg of the bulb socket in question and a solid chassis ground. You should see no resistance and continuity with a multimeter.
  21. I would check for any corrosion in the bulb socket, and also check the ground for the light. For an electrical diagram, you will need the Bentley manual.
  22. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Something is not right in the reassembly; the rack should not behave as you describe it. It should feel slightly tighter than when you started, but not so tight it does not try to self center coming off a corner.
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