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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I really wouldn't let the coolant go that long. We check coolant on every car that passes through the shop for pH, freeze point, clarity, and couple other items; generally, 50K miles or 5-6 years seems to be the going limit for most cars.
  2. Welcome to RennTech. The DMTL (Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage) tests the fuel tank and fueling components for leaks by slightly pressurizing the fuel tank and evaporative components. On some cars, like the BMW where this is a common issue, use a small pump to accomplish this test.
  3. Unfortunately, I have no idea what "too big" means. You need to scan the car with a Porsche specific tool, such as the PIWIS or Durametric software. Porsche vehicle's use unique diagnostic logic that often confuses aftermarket diagnostic tools an leads to erroneous codes, and often completely misses real codes as well.
  4. Amazon sells the Airlift system, which is what the dealers use.
  5. Are you sure the cooling system does not have any air pockets in it? Check your radiators for debris that collects and blocks the airflow:
  6. If you really want to scare yourself, add a spin on filter and a FilterMag unit that turns the entire filter housing into a magnet. Magnetic drain plugs see only some of the oil, the filter sees all the oil, all the time; so the first oil change after adding the FilterMag, you see all the fine sludge the car has built up since new:
  7. For the time being, forget about having a timing problem, your own data says that you don't have one. If a VarioCam unit fails, it fails in the low position. While electronically activated by solenoid valves, it is hydraulically operated by oil pressure; so it fails low if there is no activation signal. Your codes, however, say you are getting an implausible signal for the lift section on one bank, which usually means the lift change is not occurring. If the plug harness comes loose, you have a misfire (the plug stops working). The signal to fire the plug can also be read by voltage on the harness itself.
  8. One tooth is around 12 degrees or so, so I seriously doubt you have jumped time, so put the cam timing kit on the shelf for another day. That said, you are still not out of the woods as you have multiple misfires, and one bank is overly lean (#2), while the other is overly rich (#1), and a problem with the valve lift system on bank #1 not communicating; all of which would make the car run like crap. I would start by looking closely at the coils and plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 to see if there is anything that would cause the misfire, like coil packs that are not fully plugged in.
  9. First, take a deep breath; now exhale. There is nothing wrong with your engine, what you are seeing is completely normal as Loren mentioned. All engines produce a ferrous "grit" that is so fine, it can literally pass through the oil filter and continue to circulate. Introduce a magnet into the loop, and you get exactly what you found. The plastic bits can be from chain wear pads, or even small amounts of excess sealant inside the engine, which are also completely normal.
  10. I would add that it would be a good idea to consider Joe Gibbs DT40 5W-40 as an oil alternative.
  11. Loren is correct, it is mounted on the EVAP canister, which is not shown clearly in either of your photographs, but is partially in the first one. The canister is in the rear of the wheel well, behind the inner liner, which must be removed to see it:
  12. I believe that #5 is the little motor for operating the roof:. If so, it is under the headliner, and the motor retails (US) for around $350. Here is a complete roof parts break down: Cayenne roof
  13. I'm not sure what you are trying to get at, and most of the links you have posted lead back to this thread. If you are asking can the odometer be messed with, the answer is yes, but not very easily. It would require specific knowledge and shifting a lot of component's that all track the car's run time. If you are concerned about buying a car without seeing or evaluating it, that is a total crap shoot. If someone has taken the time (and expense) to try and hide the car's actual mileage, it might not be caught in a full PPI. Probably the best advice we can offer is to tell you that if you get a feeling something is wrong, don't move forward.
  14. There is no situation sufficiently bad that you cannot make it worse, particularly when you lack the knowledge, skills and equipment to diagnose the problem correctly.
  15. But does not rule out something else being seized, like a AC compressor, or idler. I would also not count out the engine just yet, we have seen engine's with bad bearings start and idle for a few min. when cold, and then stall as they warmed up. To be sure it is not an engine issue, you would need to pull the oil filter and look at it.
  16. The fob turns the alarm system off and gets you into the car, but a real or dummy key must be in the ignition for the system to work. I have done some additional research, and the car is reading the RFID from your fob, or from the real key (they both have it). The dummy does not have the pill, which is why it sells so cheaply (around $20 at retail), but requires the fob be nearby. So to add a push button start/stop, you need the button and some additional electronics to control both the "start" and the "stop" functions, which are normally controlled by the DME and security system via the key. On a car without PED, the key functions are simple make/break circuit systems, with the PED it is a bit more complicated as both the DME and immobilizer/security networks are involved.
  17. The, dummy or real, must carry the RFID pill with a code to match your immobilizer or the system will not work. The RFID pill must be within a certain distance of the key slot for it to be recognized or nothing would happen. If you mounted the key in the switch and put it behind the dash, anyone that got into the car could start it and drive off as you have neutralized the security system.
  18. the dummy key contains a RFID "pill" which allows the immobilizer to code the DME to allow the car to start. If you jury rigged a push button, you would still have to insert the key before the car would actually start.
  19. That is not quite correct. A battery alone should show between 12-13 V; it would only show 14V with the engine running, assuming the alternator is working correctly.
  20. +1 You should never work on any air bag wiring or connectors with the battery still connected; it is pretty easy to accidentally set one off and seriously injure yourself.
  21. OK, that is a beginning. If you put the car in gear, and release the hand brake, try pushing the car to see if the engine turns (we are looking to see if anything is seized). You can have a friend help with this so you can watch the engine pulleys to see if it begins to rotate.
  22. At the battery, but you can also just switch on the key and see what the dash voltmeter says as a first step.
  23. Not the question I asked, I asked what is its voltage reading? No or low voltage equals no start. You have to begin somewhere, start by eliminating a bad battery by testing it.
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