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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech. Start with the last, first; Porsche stopped publishing service manuals in 2004. Currently, the only two legitimate ways to get access is either with a TSI subscription (Porsche's online technical service), or by leasing a legitimate PIWIS III. All Porsches equipped with PSE have to comply with EU, and in particular, Swiss dB limits at certain speeds, typically those driven through residential neighborhoods. This is controlled by the electronics package that is installed in the factory PSE systems. By default, if the vacuum source and electronics are not connected, the PSE goes into the "loud" position all the time. The procedure you cited is the DIY to defeat the complete factory system, and is not necessary if you simply do not install the electronics and do not connect the vacuum lines.
  2. #3. The oil cooler is the highest point in your cooling system, and the place where any air in the system will collect and potentially do the most damage by not cooling the oil. Look at the top of your oil cooler, you will see a line coming off it: That line runs over to the tank. The total system bleeder is on top of the tank with a ring attached to it:
  3. #3 goes to your oil cooler. #5 is the coolant level sensor.
  4. I'll try and remember than when we get one of our usual 37 inch snow falls, when a M1A1 tank would get stuck..................
  5. Welcome to RennTech. You need a better dealer, the part (#31 below) is about $24 at board sponsor Sunset Porsche:
  6. Problem is that when the level indicator pegs, you have no idea how over filled it is; could be just a small amount, or a lot. When we do an oil change on one of these cars, we purposely short fill the system, check it after running the car for a short period, then top up with a target of being around one bar short of full: I would suggest that you are probably not too far overfilled, but you can drain a small amount out (use the turbo reservoir), restart the car, and then check the level.
  7. The procedure to first flush with another oil was developed by a leading Porsche engine builder who is known to be fastidious about how to care for these engines, and was designed to remove all traces of whatever oil was being replaced. That said, a simple complete drain and a new filter before switching oils will do just fine for the average owner.
  8. Joe Gibbs DT 40 is one candidate, and there are others.
  9. Unfortunately, years of used oil analysis shows this to be wrong. The optimal way to determine when to change oil would be to test the virgin oil for total base number, and then sample the oil periodically until the TBN drops more than 50%, indicating that the oil is "falling out of grade" by losing its original physical and rheological characteristics. Even with full synthetic oils like you have chosen, this happens much earlier than 15,000 miles. And in the case of some full synthetics, it can happen in as little as 3,000 miles, significantly reducing the oils ability to protect internal components. Our standing recommendation for changing your oil at 5,000 miles is based upon years of collected UOA data, not manufacture's recommendations, which are part of their marketing programs. Fortunately, there are now other oil choices which have demonstrated vastly improved UOA data that is well beyond M1's 0W-40 capabilites.
  10. Changing your oil at 5,000 miles is an excellent idea, regardless of the oil brand you use.
  11. You need to preface your compilation with the specific year and models covered; coding is not the same on all years and/or models.
  12. Parts positions are always determined from the driver's seated position.
  13. The clips are removed by using a flat screw driver or gasket scraper to lift the center tab slightly while pushing on the clip towards the open end. You can look up the correct part number for your radiator on board sponsor Sunset Porsche's parts website: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/
  14. Just the opposite: Because of the known issues, most shops are going to assume the car has Porsche coolant in it and act accordingly, and would top the system up with Porsche coolant. Any car we see that we do not know the history of only gets distilled water added to the system, simply because we don't want to create a new problem, but we are probably more the exception than the rule. Best suggestion I could give you if you plan to use another type of coolant is to put some sort of label in the coolant fill area stating what type of coolant is in the car. This would not be a guarantee of something stupid happening, but it should help.
  15. That should prove if it is in the radiator, hoses, or hard pipes on the one side.
  16. Your coolant capacity is 22.5 liters, or about 5.95 US gallons of a 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix. Any shop you select should have (and use) a vacuum filling system such as the Uview Airlift system. Replacing the water pump is the perfect time to flush.
  17. Porsche's later coolant is pink/orange in color. If you cannot confirm what is in the car, a full drain followed by a couple of clear water flushes are in order. Draining the cooling system is not difficult, but refilling it without getting air pockets (which are very bad) can be more problematic. Do a search for the various DIY methods owners have developed to recharge these systems, shops typically use a vacuum refilling system with completely eliminates any chance of air entrapment.
  18. They aren't real obvious. You need to extract the insert in the cover, the O-rings are on the rear:
  19. If your head gasket was bad, it would be the first one I have ever heard of failing. The multi layer steel head gaskets used in these cars is stronger than either the cylinder head or the engine case alloys, so they simply do not fail. On the other hand, these cylinder heads are known to crack around or near the valve seats: So before pulling anything apart, I would pressure test the cooling system.
  20. What is to upgrade? The factory coils and plugs are used regularly on the track, and they have been known to last many, many miles.
  21. Correct. I find Pelican to be pricey and quite often misleading on what is a factory part and what is aftermarket.
  22. Actually, I would not be buying from Pelican, when board sponsor Sunset Porsche (Beaverton, OR) sells the correct parts for less money, and ships anywhere quickly. We get parts from them all the time.
  23. Welcome to RennTech. No, you cannot "clone" a Porsche key, this is a specific element built into the system to prevent auto theft. Each uncut new key has a unique RFID "pill" in the head that communicates with the vehicle's security system. A new factory key comes with a tag with coding information that has to be entered into the vehicle's security system with a PIWIS unit (dealer's computer system) to accept the key after it has been cut to match the vehicle.
  24. If it needed to be reprogrammed, the car would not start, which is not your current problem.
  25. Have you check your fuses? Often, then the immobilizer shorts, it takes some other circuits out with it. I would also look the electrical section of the ignition switch; is a known weak point that can cause various things to stop working for no apparent reason.
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