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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not a chance. When you take off the sump cover, you will not seen any bearings. All the bearings are inside the crank carrier and cases
  2. P1602 indicates a loss of power to terminal 30 of the DME, which will erase all adaptation values stored in the DME. Usually, this is a wiring or DME connector issue, and rarely a DME fault. That alone is going to aggravate the Hell out of everything.
  3. The only way you would know if the TSB has been applied is to have the dealer check, if it was, it should be in their system. TSB's, like nearly all Porsche technical literature, is protected by copyright, so reproduction or distribution is a violation of their intellectual property rights, which the pursue and prosecute vigorously. As such, we cannot post them on the website.
  4. To follow up on what Ahsai has outlined, you need to: Load test the battery Voltage and load test the alternator Check the voltage drop across the primary battery cables You should have a 40-60 mA draw on the battery for about 1 hour or so after the car is shut off. Any more than that and you have a parasitic drain on the system. Lesson to be learned: Do not assume anything when it comes to diagnostics, even at the dealer. You should have gotten a detailed break down of what they tested and what they found. We regularly see cars that were just at the dealers, and they completely missed an obvious problem that I would expect an intern to catch.
  5. I rather doubt that the MAF could cause this without throwing a MAF related code, which you do not have.
  6. Aftermarket replacements, particularly HID units, cause all sorts of headaches ranging from weird electrical issues to cars failing state inspection either because the lights did not have the correct focusing lenses, or were devoid of DOT approval markings (mandatory in some states here). Because of all the problems we have seen, we also consider aftermarket headlights a "deduct" item when doing a PPI on a car.
  7. It is probably sitting on top of the fuel tank, so it won't do any harm. I would just get a replacement and call it a day.
  8. OK, go to the first post, and click on that link (in blue), that will take you to another page, scroll down near the bottom and you should see another link to a PDF file (again in blue). Click on that and you should see/download what you want.
  9. It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
  10. Yes, you should be concerned. Overfilled enough, you can overwhelm the AOS and inhale liquid oil into a cylinder, which will kill your engine. Drain some of the oil out, and adjust it to the correct level while you still have that option.
  11. Welcome to RennTech You need to test the parasitic draw on the battery when the car has powered down (about an hour or so after everything is shut off). Should be 40-60 mA max, more than that says something else is drawing the power.
  12. I think you are confusing an I/M Readiness test failure for a different type of fault. You would get an I/M Readiness test fail if you had cleared all codes or disconnected the battery prior to going for the test. In that case, you may have to drive for as much as a couple hundred miles before all the flags would clear, particularly the secondary air injection system. If you have an O2 sensor fault (aged out, no communications, wiring short, etc.), that is not going to go away until the issue is fixed. You could drive it until Hell freezes over, and the car would still fail. Have you gotten a CEL, or read an actual fault code in the system?
  13. Welcome to RennTech If you have an ATF leak near the front driver's side tire, something is seriously wrong as there is no ATF in the front of the 986 Boxster, it is all in the rear of the car, so it has to be something else leaking. The Tiptronic ribbon cable is a common failure point on these cars, but it is also in the rear of the car. Are you sure it is ATF?
  14. OK, P0162 indicates a power supply interruption, usually a battery disconnect or a wiring issue. It can also occur it the DME momentarily loses power. P0102 is a fault that happens when the MAF looses power due to a wiring issue or short. I would say that you had a backfire, caused by a momentary lose of battery power. You need to check the primary leads (battery cables) for voltage drop, tight connections, etc. I would also load test the battery to make sure the problem does not start there. You can get all sorts of faults and problems with low battery voltages.
  15. Year and model is always helpful in these situations.
  16. Welcome to RennTech You have a simple misfire issue, literally on every cylinder, which is highly unusual. I would start by putting the car up in the air and checking the coil pack wiring harness for rodent damage (for some reason, our little friends love to chew up the harnesses in these cars when they are left standing for a prolonged period). I would also check the fuel system looking at delivery volume and pressure. You may have some bad gas from it standing, or a plugged filter. Time for some basic hands on diagnostics..........
  17. I think that the P0157 is where to look. Normally, this is the code for the O2 sensor behind the main cat on cylinders 4-6 being shorted, the sensor itself failing, or the DME crapping out. Obviously, the DME dying would stall the engine, but we have also seen this code when the main cat failed and broke up, both killing the sensor and causing an exhaust system blockage, which would also stall the car by backing exhaust gases up into the intake, which can also cause misfires. I'd start by looking at the cat on that side.
  18. Incorrectly functioning diverted valve or wastegate is the common places to start. Turbos rarely fail, and when they do it is often a catastrophic failure (bearings).
  19. Under the dash, do a search, has been discussed multiple times.
  20. That is not factory.
  21. Individual injector failures are pretty rare in these engines. By far, most misfire codes are ignition system related. It would also be fairly easy to prove/disprove the injector theory by monitoring your fuel trim values as the car warms up.
  22. Long before I'd go after the temperature sensor, I would be looking at the air diverter doors in the heater box. These are a well know failure item on the 986, and will cut off the heat.
  23. This needs proper diagnostic's, such as checking the actual oil pressure and trying to isolate the sound source in the engine bay.
  24. Welcome to RennTech What kind and weight oil did you use? I would not be driving the car until you fix the problem, as it could make it much worse.
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