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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Joe Gibbs DT 40 is one candidate, and there are others.
  2. Unfortunately, years of used oil analysis shows this to be wrong. The optimal way to determine when to change oil would be to test the virgin oil for total base number, and then sample the oil periodically until the TBN drops more than 50%, indicating that the oil is "falling out of grade" by losing its original physical and rheological characteristics. Even with full synthetic oils like you have chosen, this happens much earlier than 15,000 miles. And in the case of some full synthetics, it can happen in as little as 3,000 miles, significantly reducing the oils ability to protect internal components. Our standing recommendation for changing your oil at 5,000 miles is based upon years of collected UOA data, not manufacture's recommendations, which are part of their marketing programs. Fortunately, there are now other oil choices which have demonstrated vastly improved UOA data that is well beyond M1's 0W-40 capabilites.
  3. Changing your oil at 5,000 miles is an excellent idea, regardless of the oil brand you use.
  4. You need to preface your compilation with the specific year and models covered; coding is not the same on all years and/or models.
  5. Parts positions are always determined from the driver's seated position.
  6. The clips are removed by using a flat screw driver or gasket scraper to lift the center tab slightly while pushing on the clip towards the open end. You can look up the correct part number for your radiator on board sponsor Sunset Porsche's parts website: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/
  7. Just the opposite: Because of the known issues, most shops are going to assume the car has Porsche coolant in it and act accordingly, and would top the system up with Porsche coolant. Any car we see that we do not know the history of only gets distilled water added to the system, simply because we don't want to create a new problem, but we are probably more the exception than the rule. Best suggestion I could give you if you plan to use another type of coolant is to put some sort of label in the coolant fill area stating what type of coolant is in the car. This would not be a guarantee of something stupid happening, but it should help.
  8. That should prove if it is in the radiator, hoses, or hard pipes on the one side.
  9. Your coolant capacity is 22.5 liters, or about 5.95 US gallons of a 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix. Any shop you select should have (and use) a vacuum filling system such as the Uview Airlift system. Replacing the water pump is the perfect time to flush.
  10. Porsche's later coolant is pink/orange in color. If you cannot confirm what is in the car, a full drain followed by a couple of clear water flushes are in order. Draining the cooling system is not difficult, but refilling it without getting air pockets (which are very bad) can be more problematic. Do a search for the various DIY methods owners have developed to recharge these systems, shops typically use a vacuum refilling system with completely eliminates any chance of air entrapment.
  11. They aren't real obvious. You need to extract the insert in the cover, the O-rings are on the rear:
  12. If your head gasket was bad, it would be the first one I have ever heard of failing. The multi layer steel head gaskets used in these cars is stronger than either the cylinder head or the engine case alloys, so they simply do not fail. On the other hand, these cylinder heads are known to crack around or near the valve seats: So before pulling anything apart, I would pressure test the cooling system.
  13. What is to upgrade? The factory coils and plugs are used regularly on the track, and they have been known to last many, many miles.
  14. Correct. I find Pelican to be pricey and quite often misleading on what is a factory part and what is aftermarket.
  15. Actually, I would not be buying from Pelican, when board sponsor Sunset Porsche (Beaverton, OR) sells the correct parts for less money, and ships anywhere quickly. We get parts from them all the time.
  16. Welcome to RennTech. No, you cannot "clone" a Porsche key, this is a specific element built into the system to prevent auto theft. Each uncut new key has a unique RFID "pill" in the head that communicates with the vehicle's security system. A new factory key comes with a tag with coding information that has to be entered into the vehicle's security system with a PIWIS unit (dealer's computer system) to accept the key after it has been cut to match the vehicle.
  17. If it needed to be reprogrammed, the car would not start, which is not your current problem.
  18. Have you check your fuses? Often, then the immobilizer shorts, it takes some other circuits out with it. I would also look the electrical section of the ignition switch; is a known weak point that can cause various things to stop working for no apparent reason.
  19. Under the driver's seat is an electronics box which is the heart of your car's immobilizer and security system, which has gotten wet and shorted out. You need to remove it, dry it out, and get rid of any corrosion that may have occurred during the flood. Do a search for the how to's, this is a very common problem on the Boxsters.
  20. Porsche switched from the M96/97 design engine to the 9A1 in model year 2009. The 9A1 does not use an intermediate shaft, so there is no bearing to worry about.
  21. Well, while they are not that expensive, they rarely ever need to be replaced, so I would look at them first. You just might be pleasantly surprised.
  22. Unfortunately, this kind of issue is all too common with aftermarket units. You might have been better off finding a nice used pair out of a rear end wreck.
  23. New Porsche OEM replacement parts or aftermarket?
  24. On the front of the cylinder head, adjacent to the plastic cam plug (blue arrow):
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