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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If you check behind the center console, you will find the cell phone plug, all versions of the car had one, regardless of if they were equipped with the phone of not. It is part of the standard wire harness.
  2. Ctek makes them, and they are excellent. If you buy one from Amazon, it will be much cheaper than from Porsche.
  3. Under your radio and behind the center console is a plug meant to be used for the extinct factory cell phone:
  4. Welcome to RennTech. Should be clearly visible at the base of the windshield on the drivers' side, and also on owners documents such as the registration, insurance cards, and the bill of sale.
  5. While it is always advisable to use the correct lubricants, doing so is not a guarantee against component failures. Even the best oils cannot cope with parts failures.
  6. That "nut" is actually the top of the tensioner: So, yes, that is what you need to check the torque of (59 Ft. Lbs.)
  7. You might try re-torqueing the tensioner, it may just be loose. Spec is 59 ft. Lbs.
  8. It may just be the oil seal ring has failed on the chain tensioner (very large nut in the left center of the picture). While the fix is cheap (replace the seal), you need to put the engine at TDC, lock it, and use cam locks to hold everything in position while removing the tensioner to replace the seal:
  9. It is inside the door, there are two switches that control the window drop and position; one is on the inside door latch mechanism, the other is on the outside door latch mechanism.
  10. I am basing that on the fact you moved the top, and suddenly everything worked. There are two micro switches involved, one in the door, the other in the top latch; as you moved the top and it suddenly started working, I would start with that switch.
  11. The top has a micro switch in the latch that tells the system when the top is all the way up; this controls the top MIL light on the dash, and triggers the windows to go up. I'd start there.
  12. The pumps and valves can be activated with the Durametric software or PIWIS, or lacking that be checked using an electrical test tool like the Power Probe; the lines need to be "eyeballed" and checked for cracks or breaks, and should also be blown out with compressed air to check for blockages.
  13. Welcome to RennTech. I don't think your codes the oil issue are necessarily related. As for the codes: P0491 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 1 - Insufficient Flow P0492 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 2 - Insufficient Flow Possible cause of fault - Electrical fault in power supply or line between relay and secondary air injection pump - Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty - Mechanical fault in electrical secondary air valve - Pneumatic secondary air valve faulty/sluggish - Electrical fault in secondary air injection pump - Mechanical fault in secondary air injection pump or secondary air injection pump blocked - Vacuum system leaking - Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or constricted
  14. Yes, the ABS/PSM pump.
  15. I would also seriously doubt this was a dealer installed engine, as they are usually reman's and bear the letters "AT" in the engine code sequence.
  16. My image was what I had up in the shop at the moment you asked. Procedure: Bleed the brakes as usual - then bleed the ABS system with the pump running (start the pump after you open the right rear bleed valve). For the ABS bleed you only open the right rear bleed valve - when you close the valve stop the pump immediately. The pump should only be run when the valve is open or you could do damage to the system from over pressure.
  17. You need to run diagnostics on the EVAP control valve network to determine how to proceed. Do a DIY search, many people have been down this road before.
  18. As there are many possible outcomes here, your best bet is to get the eyes of someone with Porsche experience on it.
  19. Welcome to RennTech. Start with the last, first; Porsche stopped publishing service manuals in 2004. Currently, the only two legitimate ways to get access is either with a TSI subscription (Porsche's online technical service), or by leasing a legitimate PIWIS III. All Porsches equipped with PSE have to comply with EU, and in particular, Swiss dB limits at certain speeds, typically those driven through residential neighborhoods. This is controlled by the electronics package that is installed in the factory PSE systems. By default, if the vacuum source and electronics are not connected, the PSE goes into the "loud" position all the time. The procedure you cited is the DIY to defeat the complete factory system, and is not necessary if you simply do not install the electronics and do not connect the vacuum lines.
  20. #3. The oil cooler is the highest point in your cooling system, and the place where any air in the system will collect and potentially do the most damage by not cooling the oil. Look at the top of your oil cooler, you will see a line coming off it: That line runs over to the tank. The total system bleeder is on top of the tank with a ring attached to it:
  21. #3 goes to your oil cooler. #5 is the coolant level sensor.
  22. I'll try and remember than when we get one of our usual 37 inch snow falls, when a M1A1 tank would get stuck..................
  23. Welcome to RennTech. You need a better dealer, the part (#31 below) is about $24 at board sponsor Sunset Porsche:
  24. Problem is that when the level indicator pegs, you have no idea how over filled it is; could be just a small amount, or a lot. When we do an oil change on one of these cars, we purposely short fill the system, check it after running the car for a short period, then top up with a target of being around one bar short of full: I would suggest that you are probably not too far overfilled, but you can drain a small amount out (use the turbo reservoir), restart the car, and then check the level.
  25. The procedure to first flush with another oil was developed by a leading Porsche engine builder who is known to be fastidious about how to care for these engines, and was designed to remove all traces of whatever oil was being replaced. That said, a simple complete drain and a new filter before switching oils will do just fine for the average owner.
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