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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. It is not that simple. The strut bearing swap requires removal of the strut assembly, compression of the spring, and then disassembly of the strut itself to get at the bearing. And after putting the car back together, you will need an alignment. If the strut cartridges themselves have a lot of miles on them, or show signs of leakage, etc.; now would be a good time to replace them as well.
  2. I think you will find that the valve opens much sooner than 65 inches of water. And yes, that is the valve on the cam cover on the other end of the long hose from the AOS. You still have something amiss in the sump evacuation system, as these are very low tension ring engines and not designed to work well unless there is slight vacuum in the cases. When your engine goes to positive pressure, the rings are no longer able to control the oil and you get the smoke. It should not be able to go from vacuum to pressure.
  3. It does sound like the strut bearing, which is a common problem.
  4. If I were you, I would be saving a sample of that oil to send out for analysis. And if there is substantial fuel intrusion into the oil, the next question becomes why?
  5. Pre oilers would not do anything to address abnormal cylinder liner scoring and wear as the oil would simply just wet the bearings and not the cylinder liners.
  6. That process should be fine, if you also change the filter.
  7. Year of the car would be useful.
  8. Unless the car is exceptionally cold, no, it is not necessary to start it. You should, however, plan on letting it drain completely.
  9. In general, yes. They tend to run hot, which does not help, and can be generally hard on lubricants, which is why product selection and maintenance timing is critical.
  10. Without starting another "oil war", usually because of the starting blend stocks quality and/or the additive package is breaking down prematurely.
  11. You could have the battery load tested, but if it is below 12V, it is probably toast.
  12. The responsibility for what you do with your tools in your shop rests with you, so that is an option. Shops regularly are approached about disabling all sorts of mandated systems, like TPMS, seat belts, air bags, etc.; and simply will not get involved because if someone get injured, the shop is the "deep pockets" in the liability equation.
  13. I would be willing to bet the sleeves are an iron alloy rather than steel, which would destroy the pistons in no time. There is another alternative in the LN Engineering "Nickies" aluminum allow liners; they are much stronger than the factory units, and do not have the issue of using dissimilar metals in an alloy engine case. Not cheap, but they do work.
  14. You are correct in your assumption, but many dealers or equipped independents won't do it for liability reasons (you would be disabling a mandated safety system and can be held liable for injuries resulting from doing so).
  15. Afraid I cannot agree. While switching from another oil to the DT40 would benefit from a pre flush to remove any remaining old oil, it is not absolutely necessary. Within on to two oil changes, any residual from the old oil would be removed by normal dilution and evacuation. We have a lot of customers using DT40, and more than 90% chose to go with a simple oil change over the pre flush method, without any noticeable effect either in the engine or their UOA analysis when compared to those that chose the pre flush method. Based upon that, if you want to go "belt & suspenders", do a pre flush; other wise just do a compete drain and refill. As for total ZDDP levels, we often find UOA's on DT40 after 5-6 K miles demonstrate a higher ZDDP level than virgin Mobil products right out of the bottle.
  16. With the multimeter still hooked up to the car, try pulling the fuses one at a time until you hit the one causing the draw.
  17. A good smoke test unit is upwards of $1.5K, so I would consider doing what Loren says and take it to a shop with one.
  18. Gibbs DT 40 is a 5W-40 oil with exceptional film strength and very high ZDDP levels to reduce further wear. You really do not want to run excessively heavy weight oils as they will effect how the VarioCam system function. Stick with the DT40.
  19. That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
  20. That could be difficult from Porsche, they do not make many of them available separately. Most are VW parts, so I would find a friendly VW parts person and buy them a six pack. You could also try the bone yards as well.
  21. Many dealerships to not do IMS retrofits as Porsche's "official position" is that you cannot change out the bearing without taking the engine apart; and many of those that do take the engine apart replace the shaft with one that uses the oversized non serviceable bearing. So I would not consider a dealer unless they are on LN Engineering's list of installers. $3K should get you an LN Engineering hybrid bearing, a new RMS, and a complete new clutch assembly, probably with some money left over.
  22. It is a total crap shoot without knowing how bad the situation really is.
  23. P0077: Valve lift control driver, above limit value P0086 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2) P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2) P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2) P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) The rest are misfire codes. Needless to say, this is an odd mix of codes.
  24. What codes were you getting? Codes thrown as the result of a true fault will return if the fault is not corrected.
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