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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The system will not function unless the handbrake light is on, you need to find out why that is not happening.
  2. Engine off: 3.8 +/- 0.2 bar (55 PSIG) Engine idle: 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar (48 PSIG) Fuel delivery rate: 850 ml in 30 seconds
  3. Having a bit of a hard time trying to decern which component is in your photo, and you supply more useful photos or description?
  4. This is a poster child for how not to store one of these vehicles. Gas that old is more varnish that fuel, and I would suspect is part of your problems, along with the fuel pump. You need to test the system's fuel pressure and delivery rates for a start.
  5. Maybe..................the factory bolts were 10MM hex drive, but the factory replacement bolts are T55 torx; torque spec for both is 85 Nm/ 63 ft-lb. You should not reuse the bolts in any case.
  6. It still looks like it is struggling with an overly rich mixture.
  7. When you buy brake fluid, you typically have no idea how old it is, or how it has been stored. A properly sealed container should be a zero for fairly extended period, but because Dot 4 is so hydroscopic, and some containers, particularly plastic ones, are moisture permeable and can suck up moisture sitting on the shelf. That is exactly why we test them.
  8. If you look at your picture carefully, you will notice that the "crust" deposits look like they start higher up and run down to the bottom, which is normally the way leaks work, so your leak may be further up and running down to that point, where it dries out and crusts. I would clean off the area and regularly check to see if you can spot the leak source. I would also consider adding a bit of Uview's coolant dye, which allows you to use a "black light" source to pinpoint the exact source of the leak, as even if it dries out, it leaves a trail back to the source:
  9. Silver_TT has a valid point, a fresh container of Dot 4 fluid should read zero moisture, not 1.5%. We tried the test strips once, found them to be very misleading and very often inaccurate. One of the main advantages of the digital tester, besides dead on accuracy, is that you can test the fluid while it is still in your car. While that sounds more convenient than useful, using the digital tester on customer cars, we have found that for some owners, we don't need to change the fluid as often, sometimes 4-5 years between flushes, and without any concern. That alone can be a substantial cost savings to the owner. And we also test every container of Dot 4 fluid when we open them, if any are above zero, they get sent back and replaced with fresh containers that test properly. So if you haven't done so, do not use your new fluid, that moisture level is already nearly out of spec; and if you have used it, get some fresh Dot 4, test it, and then reflush the vehicle.
  10. For future reference, OTC makes a digital electronic brake fluid moisture test tool that costs about $20 and is as accurate as a $800 lab testing tool, and can actually test the fluid while it is still in the system master cylinder 😉
  11. Welcome to RennTech There are 2 relays for each fan, high and low speed. All 4 of them are identical so you can start swapping to see if that is the problem. There is also a ballast resistor for each fan. If that goes bad, then the one fan on that resistor will not work.
  12. Fear not, I have multiple Ctek units that have been plugged in for years..................
  13. Most quality maintainers run warm to sometimes hot, particularly when they are running a lot of current in the "bulk mode" to bring the battery up to snuff. What do the indicator lights show?
  14. As the car had been running rich base on the old codes, you may need to run it a bit at speed to clean off the plugs.
  15. Your software version is so old, you may be in for a surprise if it is one of the Chinese knockoffs that were widely sold cheaply online: "First generation cables were sold through February 2008. Cables sold after February 2008, with very few exceptions, are second-generation cables. The cables with a box in the middle of the wire are first generation cables and are not compatible with version 6. Cables with the electronics inside the 16-pin OBDII connector can be either first or second generation cables: If the cable has the LED light on the side that reads "for use on: PORSCHE," then it is a second generation interface cable and it is compatible with version 6. If the cable has the LED light on the side that reads "Enthusiast Version" or "Professional Version," then it is a first generation cable and it is not compatible with version 6. Customers with first generation cables can upgrade to second generation cables for $150 USD (shipping and updated accessories additional). For more information about why we are not supporting the first generation interfaces and details about upgrading a 1st-generation cable, see our Upgrade FAQ"
  16. Update the software and see if it works then.
  17. If you have a legitimate version, go to their website, click on "Downloads" and follow their instructions under the "software" section. And all updates for legitimate versions are totally free.........
  18. First of all, that version of Durametric qualifies as an antique and dates to August 2008, the current version is 6.6.3.5, so, I would start by updating the software. Second, most of these codes are communications issues, I would clear all of them and then see what comes back.
  19. Working from memory here as it has been a while, but it should be under "coding adaptations" and then under "steering col switch" where you change the value to "installed". Loren might want to jump in here, but certain car configurations like yours also require replacing the actual steering control module as well, which also must then be coded to the car....................
  20. 4 is preferred for these for the cars as it has a higher boiling point.
  21. You have some simple misfiring events, P0300 and P0301 say the same thing: P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant Possible causes: - Fouled, faulty or incorrect spark plugs - Contact resistance - Loose contacts - Camshaft control poorly adjusted P1313 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Emission Relevant Look for: - Fouled, faulty or incorrect spark plugs - Contact resistance (broken coil pack) - Loose contacts
  22. Coding requires the use of a PIWIS system. The mirror issue requires some diagnostics; it may be the control switch, but that requires more investigation.
  23. The tire should be elevated while torquing wheels to spec, and yes, they should be done correctly.
  24. Check the sockets for any build up or corrosion, if there is, clean them up. Beyond that it is time to start testing for voltage at the correct times, and tracing wires for any defects.
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