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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. On the dual row bearings, the original retainer is a wire which is actually under the outer race, and cannot even be seen during extraction. You simply pull on the bearing hard enough to break it, then remove the bearing.
  2. Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  3. +/- 6 degrees is the limits on the cam deviation values at idle, but what is also worth looking at when check the cam deviation is if the values remain steady at an idle, or are jumping around. They should be relatively steady as jumping values indicate excessive "slop" somewhere in the cam drive assembly. The piston skirt shape and coatings are designed to work with the characteristics of the surface they ride on, as are the ring alloy composition. As the factory liners were an aluminum alloy, they would have different thermal expansion characteristics than iron or steel liners, so at temperature, the piston skirts and/or rings can be subjected to significantly different wear than they would see in an alloy liner, which is why we use high quality alloy replacement liners here.
  4. Easy one to answer: the LN replacement for the IMS will come with a large Spiro lock, which is installed after the new bearing goes in to retain it. If you check LN's website, you will see the Spiro lock in the photos Dual row IMS kit
  5. Welcome to RennTech This is a rough one to try and diagnose remotely, plus you have not identified the year of the engine, but I do see a couple of problems. The original cylinders were aluminum, and the factory pistons are designed to be used on aluminum liners, not iron or steel. Usually, using pistons and rings meant for aluminum in iron liners does not end up well. Before you disassembled the engine the second time, did you check the cam deviation values?
  6. Welcome to RennTech While the early cars used simple resistors to control fan speeds, later cars like yours can have pulse width modulation controls, which are electronically controlled modules that simply have to be replaced when they act up. So unless you can find something that isn't properly connected in the fan circuits, you may be buying some very expensive replacement fans........
  7. That is not good. These engines can shed aluminum without a lot of concern, but ferrous debris is a sign of something more serious. I would not be driving a turbo around that has ferrous debris in the engine as that Mezger lump is a bloody expensive unit to replace. You need to find the source of this ferrous material and fix it before it tears up something very expensive.
  8. What kind of metal is it (ferrous or non ferrous)? Makes all the difference..............
  9. While I am not conversant with the iCarsoft system, your radiator fans speeds are controlled by an electronic system (Pulse Width Modulation) that can infinitely vary the fan speeds by varying voltage on time instead of the old multiple resistor system, I am assuming that is what the tools is displaying, possible as a percentage of "on time", the more on time, the faster the fan speed.
  10. Nothing unusual; Porsche gauges are not known for their accuracy or linearity.
  11. Welcome to RennTech
  12. I would try rotating the engine 360 degrees by hand and check the tool fitment again. Sometimes you catch them 180 degrees off. If the cam locking tool does not go in then, you have a cam timing issue, which I seriously doubt is the reluctor..
  13. Yes to both. People tend to forget that one of the principal functions of engine oil is heat transfer.
  14. I'd check the fuel pressure. Running the car out of gas can suck tank bottom debris in the filter, clogging it. It can also burn up the fuel pump.
  15. All these parts have been superseded with upgraded pieces: Piston 997.107.125.01 Spring 996.107.127.53 Gasket 996.107.123.50 So for less than $20 at retail, you get better low RPM oil pressure. The new piston also has a bevel on its upper edge as well, and the spring is slightly longer.
  16. I would take a look at your fuel filter; running the car out of gas can suck all the bottom debris from the tank into the filter. Running it out of gas can also burn up the fuel pump as well.
  17. You cannot lock the cam positions while doing this, but you must lock the engine at TDC at the crank pulley. Regardless of if the cams are being pulled, or just disconnected, you are going to need to retime them once all the updates are completed, which is why you don't lock them, they are going to be out of time in any case. The cam retaining plates are inserted through the green plug openings before removing the cam cover, as seen in one of the photos above. You need to also remove all four chain tensioners, which includes the one underneath the AC compressor. I would also seriously consider pulling the cams as you do not have the tools we had fabricated to compress and hold the actuator to get the small pads out. Again, you are going to be retiming the engine anyway, so make your life easier. Also pay attention to the pads themselves, two have small holes in them, two do not. They are not interchangeable.
  18. The more I think about this, if you are a "first timer" doing this, it probably is going to be easier for you to pull the cams and do it on the bench, then reinstall the cams.
  19. Once secured, you can remove the VarioCam unit, undo the chains, and replace the pads between the cams, or if you choose, remove the cams entirely. However, if you are changing the larger lower chain wear pads further down on the chains, removing the cams does make that easier; but then the engine would also be out as well.
  20. The cams do not have to come out, but the do need to be held in place to prevent them snapping from the valve spring loads when the cam cover is removed. People seem to forget that the valve springs are pushing UP on the cams, which being cast iron, do not flex, but do snap in two if not correctly supported using the end plates and saddles shown in the kit above. He is the cover being removed with the end retaining plate in place, but before the extra saddles are added to even out the spring load: And here you can see the cams retained, this time with home brew saddles made from bar stock:
  21. The cams are cast iron, which does not like to flex; the valve springs exert several hundred pounds of force onto the cam lobes, so breakage is a real issue. Both Porsche and several aftermarket firms make the cam holding tools, so again, search is your friend, just be sure the one you select matches your year engine:
  22. Any time you remove the cam covers, you are going to need cam retaining tools or risk breaking the cams as the cover is half of the cam bearing saddles, and the spring pressure will try to flex the cams which are cast iron. By "chain buffers" I assume you are referring to the chain wear pads, which is probably why you didn't find much when you searched. On the five chain engines, the small pads between the cams are usually the worst offenders, but can be changes once you secure the cams and remove the cover. Do another search, this has been covered multiple times.
  23. Unless the problem is due to top misalignment, some wear spots are to be expected on any convertible top.
  24. There are several "depends" here; what year is each engine as some were different DME version. There is also the question of VarioCam vs. VarioCam+, and the fact that the later engine's were more heavily dependent upon CAN bus for sensor communications. Any combination is possible, it is just the amount of work required to make it happen......
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