JFP in PA

I would try the magnetic fishing approach first, but be sure the magnet is solidly attached.

Then is sounds like one or more of the other lines are out, which is going to take more sophisticated equipment/diagnostics to evaluate.

Parts for this car are going to be an "Easter egg hunt" as Kremer may have had some of the parts manufactured for them. You may want to simply go to the Kremer brothers and ask them: Kremer Racing Here is an interesting article taken from MCP Motorsport " The PORSCHE KREMER 930 STREET RACING Right at the end of an industrial estate in north Cologne there is a Porsche dealer by the name of Kremer. If you were to walk into their showroom, you would find the expected half dozen or so new Porsches and point of sale material that any new car dealership carries. Cast your eyes past the glass cabinet of Porsche Possessions and up the stairs beside the receptionist and if you are a model car buff, you will be transfixed by the 53 1:43 scale model Porsches in bright racing regalia. So someone at Kremer collects models of racing Porsches? Correct, but all of these models either represents a car that Erwin Kremer has raced under his own banner, or the company Porsche Kremer Racing, has prepared for a client. And, according to Manfred Kremer, there are many more. Porsche Kremer Racing is the Motorsport division of E & M Kremer. The two brothers, Erwin and Manfred have been in the Porsche business for nearly three decades. They celebrated the 25th Anniversary of their company in October 1987, which places the start of their Porsche servicing business with the 356 cars, a year before the birth of the 911 on which the company's racing fortunes was built. It is unusual for any tuner to be able to hold a Porsche franchise, but in recognition of the tremendous effort that Kremer has put into promoting the success of the marque in international motorsport, this hurdle and another rather more political one were removed by the powers that be at Stuttgart. Normally, to gain a Porsche franchise, one must first prove oneself as a Volkswagen-Audi dealer. From the original network of 210 Porsche dealers in Germany, there are now only 80, following a rationalisation in the late 1980s. Kremer is the only one who is purely Porsche. An accolade has been bestowed. Kremer's racing successes began 22 years ago when they campaigned a short-wheelbase 911 2.0 litre and emerged winners of the European Touring Car Championship. Every year since then, up to 1985, a Kremer prepared Porsche of some description from 911 to 962C has figured in the winners circle of motorsport events from German Sportscar championships to Le Mans in l979 and IMSA a year later. Kremer prepared the Leyton House sponsored 962C that started 11th on the grid at 1989's Le Mans. But in that fateful race which was won by the Sauber prepared Mercedes cars, all the 962C's were retired after two cars suffered serious engine fires thought to be caused by faulty fuel system components. Such a racing pedigree is bound to be called upon by customers who want their road cars prepared by a company who really know what they are doing, and it was natural for Kremer to call on their competition experience to oblige. In view of the huge amounts of money that can change hands in the course of commissioning a special car in Kremer, it is surprising that they do not produce a glossy brochure unlike the various BMW, Mercedes-z and even VW-Audi tuners that proliferate in Germany. But if you stop to think about it, most of these other tuners also do a wide range of body styling additions on which they can base a glossy catalogue. Suspension and engine bits can be hung around these as a matter of course. Serious engineering based tuners like Kremer and Ruf let their reputations and the performance of their cars speak for them and as the permutations of engine modifications for just 911 engines, let alone other Porsche models is vast. Kremer only mention three or four typical examples and ask the prospective client to discuss their individual needs with the firm. They speak of 235bhp as a simple conversion for the 3.0 litre 9I1SC and offer up to 410bhp for a road going 3.3 Turbo, but we were shown one flatnose car belonging to a customer that had a Group C 962 engine with nearly 680bhp lurking under its hood. "This cars' engine has Le Mans specification cams in it, "explained Achim Stroth, Kremer's Customer Relations Manager, "and this 'soft' state of tune for endurance racing makes the car docile enough for street use, but only in the country-side. City driving would be asking too much. The car that Stroth had arranged for us to photograph on this visit was some way short of this ultimate road car. It was going to a Japanese customer who lived in Tokyo. Now those of you who have been to Japan will realise that traffic conditions in downtown Tokyo are somewhat worse than central London at rush hour. The chances of being able to open up a normal 911 let alone a tweaked monster are just about nil, but in Japan, prestige is all that counts. Thus, the car was to be visually one of Kremer's less subtle efforts. The front of this jet black 911 Turbo is dominated by the huge oil cooler intake which is integral with a deep front air dam of the rounded shovel variety. This blends into the huge front wheel arch flares and continues along the sides of the car to meet the rear arches. The wheels are Porsche Fuchs alloys but of massive 9 x 15 inch and 13 x 15 inch dimensions, chromed but with gold centres. These are shod with Pirelli P7 rubber, 225/50VR15 in front and 345/35VR15 at the rear. Compared to any other Wicked 911 you have ever seen, the Kremer car looks as if it is sitting a mile up in the air. This is not a mistake on Kremer's part, but simply a ploy to get past the Japanese car import red tape which dictates bumper and headlamp height. Once the car is imported and certified, it will be lowered to its correct height and will cease to look like a cartoon caricature of itself. While the car is street driveable, it will spend some of its life taking part in club sport events. Hence a full roll cage, racing seats and race harnesses have been installed. Aftermarket suspension tuning in Germany has not progressed to the degree of sophistication offered in the United States. The Weitmeister fully adjustable suspension components offered by companies like Precision Porsche in California are in fact available in England through Stuttgart Connection, but very few people know about them. Companies like Kremer and Ruf still rely on the older style of suspension tuning for 911s using bigger torsion bars and anti-roll bars and updated dampers to adjust their suspensions to higher performance needs. Beyond that, they convert the cars to coil springs. The engine is the most interesting part of this car however, and to get the 410bhp (DIN) that Kremer claim, they have had to do some serious work to the major components. This was a new car to start with and the motor was completely stripped and checked. All the components were blueprinted and balanced and the engine casing had shuffle pins installed to prevent case movement under the huge internal pressures. The heads were gas flowed and the ports matched on both intake and exhaust sides to their respective manifolds. A Kremer four-pipe exhaust system is used which is worth 15bhp in itself, and this makes full use of the hotter cams. A lot of the engine's staying power comes from a huge intercooler that sits on top of the engine and necessitates the larger rear spoiler on the hood. This is a recommended part of any high boost turbo conversion and together with a specially machined 1(27 turbo, gives 75bhp extra on a stock 3.3 Turbo engine. In conjunction with the four-pipe Kremer exhaust, this extends power to 390bhp com-pared to the stock European 300bhp output. The conversion also removes a large part of the turbo lag and endows the car with better low speed response with boost starting at 2,500rpm. If you can get your eyeballs past the huge intercooler, you will see that the engine has twin ignition coils and a 12-plug distributor to help it burn all the fuel It is fed at high rpm. Trace the plumbing back to the cockpit, and you find a large knurled knob resting next to the handbrake. This is the boost control knob. Kremer slightly understate in their catalogue when they describe this device as being "used to correct weather influences as needed etc to adjust the boost in case it's too low or too high!" The finishing touch before we could take the car away for photography was the application of gold coloured decals to the running boards which proclaimed 'Kremer Street Racing,' a contradiction in terms if ever there was one! Starting a 410bhp 911 Turbo is no different from a stock version, but the noise when the engine catches is. The four pipe exhaust gives a deeper more purposeful note and when you blip the throttle, it reminds you of a toned down 934 racer. Because the car was due to be whisked away to a ship bound for Japan next day, we could not take it far and certainly not fast. In any case, the mechanics wanted to complete their final shakedown and adjustments to make sure it left their hands perfect. The short drive we had though was enough to show that low speed throttle response was indeed no worse that stock and while 300bhp may give you a hard shove in the back, 410bhp is more like an enormous wallop. Achim Stroth emphasised to us that Kremer are much more geared towards their racing activities than building modified road cars for customers. Certainly you can expect the same level of component and build quality in a Kremer road cdnversion as you would get if you commissioned a Group C Porsche from them. Kremer have no plans for a spectacular road car to challenge the likes of the Ferrari F40 or Porsche 959 in top speed shootouts. For them, their efforts are channelled towards maintaining the lead in sportscar racing that they have acquired and held for nearly three decades. You can hardly blame them - it is what they do best. " __________________

The item I was thinking of looks like this: The one on the other side may be like this: Both are variations on a theme and are considered plastic rivets.

No diagnostic system is going to work correctly if there is no power.

Welcome to RennTech The OBD II port also has a power pin (#16), which most diagnostic system use to power themselves. You might start by seeing if that is still hot with the key on:

I would say that is one of those plastic rivet fasteners rather than a screw.

No need to double post. I would start with getting the system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure; if it does not, you need to find and correct that problem first.

Welcome to RennTech A new front motor mount will tend to make the engine sit higher rather than lower; something else is not right.

When the cam cover is removed, the chains will be holding it on one end, and the cam retaining plates (top right in your kit in plastic bags) will be holding the other end. You install them first by removing the green rubber plugs at the end of the cam cover, and then remove the cover itself. Once the cover is off, you can install the silver cam saddles from your kit as extra insurance.

Duncan is correct. When you hear cam follower/lifters tapping, you have excessive metal to metal bounce contact because the lifter hydraulic system is not keeping them in contact with the cam lobes. Over time, that will lead to both lifter "mushrooming" and wear on the cam lobes themselves, which are only soft cast iron. Valve train noise is not your friend.

My shop, and others, have encountered noise and VarioCam problems on cars equipped with the DOF, which went away when the oil line off the cylinder head was disconnected and plugged. The exact reason this happens to some installations and not others is not clear, but as oil circulation in these cylinder heads is already a known issue (usually the result of either "varnish" build up or debris in the rather small oil passages found in the heads and particularly in the cam followers or lifters) low oil flow is suspected. So while you may have decent pressure as measured at the oil sender, the actual flow rates inside the cylinder heads may not be adequate, resulting in noise and/or insufficient oil to operate the VarioCam components correctly.

Yours would not be the first one.............

Just to play devil's advocate here, try disconnecting the DOF feed line and plugging it. I'll bet the tapping sound goes away......................

Fuel trims would be a good place to start.................

If the voltage is not where it is supposed to be, all sorts of problems can result. The very first thing to check is the voltage drop across the battery cables; these are well known for developing internal corrosion that causes this exact problem.

Then consider getting some used cats from a bone yard. We have several customers that purchased both cats used this way for less then one new one, and several years on are running just fine.

Almost any global OBD II scanner can do this, but the CEL will pretty quickly return as the problem is still there, and no sophisticated or even Porsche specific tool can turn it off permanently. Kind of a futile move.

It doesn't have to throw codes to run poorly, we see cars from time to time that were barely running, but free of codes; these are what separate those that understand diagnostics from those that throw parts at the problem.

Unfortunately, without codes or other "real time" data capture from the vehicle, this is rather difficult to diagnose remotely. Is it possible for you to capture data while this is happening?

Don't feel bad, the AOS replacement on a 996 is not for everyone and can easily turn into a knuckle busting, "wish I hadn't started this" affair; particularly if they do not have the necessary facilities at their disposal.

Welcome to RennTech Always be careful about using crimp style connectors in these wiring looms; a lot of circuits in these cars are low or even fractional voltage systems, and crimp connectors can cause dissimilar metal corrosion over time, leading to increased resistance and unending problems. We always solder these connections and use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints. We recently had a Boxster in the shop with complaints of weird idle problems and occasional stalling issues. This car had been in and out of a handful of shops trying to solve the problem, and had gone through the replacement of O2 sensor for over $1K, new MAF (twice), etc., with no improvement before it came to us. When we tested the car, we noticed wildly fluctuation in the MAF readings, so we popped in a known good sensor, with no change in the readings. When we tested the MAF sensor wires for resistance, we found one wire had low, but measurable resistance. When we traced that wire, we found a repair done with a crimp connector and heat shrink tubing over it. We cut the repair out, soldered and heat shrink wrapped the new joint, and the MAF readings immediately became normal and steady. The car has run perfectly ever since. Crimp connectors are not always your friend...................

Welcome to RennTech You need to determine what is causing the issue before apply any repair. The correct way to do this is by checking the system operating pressures first using a proper gauge set. If the problem is not low gas, adding excess can lead to major componet failure and big bucks. If the system is low on gas, the nest question becomes why is it low? If you have a slow leak, it is only a matter of time before you are back in the same spot again. The leak should be located and repaired before recharging the system. If you don't have the correct equipment to do this, take it to someone that does. AC repairs are reallly not a backyard DIY item.

For future readers of this thread, watch which year you are looking at as Porsche reversed codes on the later DME, making P0501 the right sensor on cars with a 7.8 DME, which the OP has:

I'm away from the shop at the moment, so working from memeory P0501 is for no speed signal, which can come from multiple sources: Break or short in the wiring from the ABS module to the ECM Break in the wiring from the left rear wheel speed sensor to the ABS module Left rear wheel speed sensor is dead. Pull the left rear wheel and check for a damaged sensor or heavy build up of brake dust. If OK, check the speed sensor for resistance, should be 1.6-1.8K ohms.