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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech If memory serves on Canadian cars, the DRL are controlled by a programing "switch" in the DME software that can be set by a PIWIS unit, but it uses bulbs in the headlights, not the fog lights.
  2. No. The S calipers are designed for the larger diameter S rotors which will not fit without changing the rear uprights and hubs.
  3. Carbon build up is common, but the corroded ports are of concern, they look like coolant was in them at some point. I would hand rotate this engine, clock wise only, and do a leak down on it before installing it.
  4. Get the car scanned with a PIWIS, if it shows actual values, it is not the car. Porsche has always used a unique diagnostic logic in their system, making it extremely difficult to "crack the code". Porsche has also continued to change the DME's in these cars with newer models, which has caused all sorts of weird issues on some models and certain year cars. Durametric recently went through this with the later Cayenne's. Durametric operates without any assistance from Porsche (if anything, Porsche probably wishes they would simply go away and do something else), and has to develop "work around's" for these problems as they surface, and they are often prioritized according to the number of vehicles and users impacted. And some problems simply take more time and effort than others.
  5. What compression pressure or leak down value to you have on that cylinder?
  6. I would first start with a system voltage test. With the engine off, your battery should show around 12.2 Volts, running that should be in the 13.5-14V range. Next I would look at parasitic draw on the battery. To do this, put your multimeter between the positive cable and the posititve battery cable, set on amperage (low range). After the car has sat for about an hour, it should read 40-60 mA; any more than that and something is draining the battery. You can figure out what circuit is involved by pulling the fuses one at a time until it drops into range. The last circuit pulled is your suspect.
  7. P0638 is the code when the expected and actual position of the throttle blade does not match. As this harness is very resistance sensitive, have you checked all the wires for high resistance (possible a bad solder joint)? Porsche, by-the-by went electronic to protect their intellectual rights. Historically, they have been very aggressive when anyone steps over that line, even shutting down websites for using their logos without written permission.
  8. Not really. Not all codes are treated equally under the EPA guidelines for passing the enhanced inspection process. Direct emissions issues (EVAP, O2 sensors, etc.) have to run clean for a period of multiple cold starts to full warm up and highway speed drive cycles, such as the SAI system; other codes, like the VarioCam system are either good or not good, no drive cycles are required once the repair is made and the code cleared.
  9. Manifold vacuum is going to vary with throttle position, but at idle you should be seeing around 20+ inches of vacuum. More than likely, you are going to need to install a vacuum reserve chamber along with the vacuum pump to assure sufficient vacuum under all operating conditions.
  10. You need to understand that Bosch is correct in their response, Porsche stopped printing all factory service data years ago, and started shutting down websites that publish anything they feel is their intellectual property, so there is precious little information out there. If you want to get the factory data, you need to start a subscription to Porsche's PIWIS TSI electronic technical information system, which will give you online access to the information you feel you need, but at a price.
  11. To help making your life easier "the next time", get yourself a "Tub O Towels" for your shop: These things are incredible for a quick but through cleaning of your hands or what not without having to visit some running water. A quick wipe and your good to touch just about anything. Also great for cleaning that pile of tools when a project is done.
  12. Plus your hands stay a lot cleaner that way
  13. And props to you as well Duncan, this was no small undertaking by talkenrain, but he would not have pulled it off without your persistent help. Well done
  14. Strange, we have always found them to be responsive, even if it was only to say they were working on it and didn't have an answer yet. Have you tried asking a second time?
  15. There are a lot of good quality wrenches out there, you don't need to jump for the top of the line Snap-On, just don't go with the cheapest thing you can find. Inch pounds of torque are not large values in and of them selves, so buying something dirt cheap but very inaccurate can easily take you where you really don't want to go. A good used unit would be a better investment, plus you can always sell on a quality tool, even if you purchased it used. Testing an inch pound wrench, which may only go to 12.5 ft. lb. max. against another wrench that can't read below 10 ft. lbs. is also questionable; both are operating at or near their limits (upper and lower) which is not a good place to test accuracy. Several companies sell very accurate torque wrench test fixtures for this purpose, or you can often get the manufacture to test it for free if it doesn't need recalibration (Snap-On does this).
  16. No one stole for a reason: HF torque wrenches do not hold their accuracy, which can be devastating on inch pound fasteners.............
  17. I'm with Duncan on this one, with oversized injectors and a different intake, I don't think the stock DME program is up to the task.
  18. Again, I would like to see fuel trim values.......
  19. Not necessarily. At idle, a good MAF would read in the 12-24 Kg/H range. What kind of readings did you see while it was still running? I would also remove connector of MAF sensor, connect ohmmeter to MAF sensor pins 1 and 3. Display should read : 2.3 - 2.7 k ohms at 20 °C Also check for a short to ground. When it was running, did you capture fuel trim values?
  20. I'd also like to see the engine number..........................
  21. Duncan is correct, that car should be E-gas...............
  22. I don't understand why you had a problem with a partially filled system using the Airlift tool, we do exactly that just about every day. As long as the tool adapter at the surge tank is above the liquid level, and the engine is not hot, the tool will not draw in coolant. When you start with air trapped in a partially filled system, throttle the compressed air feed slightly to allow the system to "burp" the air out gradually without causing a surge of liquid towards the tool. When the system stops "burping", you can open the air feed wide open and pull the system down to full vacuum before pulling in the additional coolant mix needed. With a drained system, refills take about 5 min.; starting with a partially full system it may take you 10-15 min but when you are done, you won't have any further issues.
  23. The best way is by using a tool such as the Uview Airlift, which is also the factory tool for doing this. Some people resort to all sorts of tricks like tilting the car at weird angles and such to get the air out; but the corrrect tool make refilling the cooling system a 5 min. Job with the car sitting on the ground.
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