Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. From practical experience, you are better off replacing the bushing. Glue and other "fixes" tend to ultimately fail.
  2. I would connect a digital manometer to the oil fill opening using an old oil fill cap: If the AOS is good, you should read 5 inches of water vacuum level or less.
  3. I would then call Ctek. The unit may have an internal fault, but Ctek is very good about their warranties.
  4. Welcome to RennTech P1702 is for "an impossible bit combination" at the DME, which could be software or a transistor chip problem in the DME. This is very problematic and probably why they could not get the unit to accept a reflash.
  5. How do you have the Ctek connected to the car? The Ctek cable that connects directly to the battery has a fuse in the positive wire. If you are using the lighter plug, there is a fuse inside that plug.
  6. Welcome to RennTech Usually, a blinking light means that the 3 amp fuse in the line to the battery has blown. Pull it and check it.
  7. Exactly my point. For someone with time and a well equipped facility to do in a leisurely manner, $500 parts they can get for perhaps half that elsewhere, and $1600 of labor seem almost outrageous. For someone that has never done this, has to get it done in a confined time frame because they need the car for work, and has only minimal facilities at their disposal; the numbers don't look so bad, particularly if they can drop the car off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon. All a matter of perspective......
  8. My comment was directed at his dealer quote for $1600, who is probably hitting him at full list, which is around $520, or about a third of the quote. A DIY'er can pretty much always beat the commonly quoted dealer list, and even beat Sunset's web price, which is usually pretty good. But then they need special tooling at a couple hundred bucks, a place to do it with the necessary tool kit, etc. All depends upon how talented and determined the OP is, but the dealer price is not overly out of line. He might also want to get a second quote from an quality indie shop; could easily save some money over the dealer quote.
  9. Duncan, current retail for 996-605-902-00 from Porsche is more like $393 ( Sunset Porsche); but I would agree that around $1600 is a fair price for the job as it requires both special tooling and some working knowledge as well.
  10. Only if you want to get the oil filter off. While you did not say which year or model (always a good idea as they are not all the same) I'd suggest trying board sponsor Sunset Porsche, who retails the item for around $26.
  11. It does, should be in the engine actual values sub menu. The car should not be running lean.
  12. If you have a lean condition, I would be looking at the fuel trim values. The car should not be running lean, usually the result of a small vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system.
  13. You haven't mentioned any codes being thrown, so I will assume there are none. The DME is supposed to respond to the activation of the compressor by telling the engine to increase RPM and ignition timing slightly to compensate for the additional load created, making the process rather seamless. One suggestion I might offer is to check your car's MAF values to see if they are inline with specs. You might also try pulling the MAF sensor and cleaning it using a quality aerosol MAF cleaner to see if that makes the MAF more responsive.
  14. The problem on converting non HID lights to using aftermarket HID bulbs is the lack of a projector lens. The projector lens focuses the beam in such a manner as to reduce the intense glare put out by HID bulbs, and also causes the pronounced horizontal "cut off" of the upper portion of the HID beam seen in the factory Litronic headlamps. As the high beam in your car is not a projector lens, you would lose a large part of the HID high beam it widely scattered glare which would blind on coming drivers and be "ticket bait" for the nearest cops. And if who ever does your annual state inspection notices them, he is supposed to fail the car for non DOT conforming lights.
  15. Possibly the coolant tank or the water pump; you need to get the car up in the air and look.
  16. I would wait to see what Durametric has to say. Could be a number of things, but I would still like to see what they come up with before playing around.
  17. Have to agree with Duncan on this one; in all the years we have been working on these engine's, I have never seen one of the MLS head gaskets fail, simply because the head gasket is stronger than the cylinder head it self.
  18. The calipers on these cars are fully rebuild-able.
  19. Welcome to RennTech By far the biggest cause for 986 Boxster surge tank failures are the use of aftermarket "OEM type" parts. While only a fraction of the real factory unit, they also have the life expectancy of a mayfly (we have seen them fail literally within weeks of installation), which is a ridiculous attempt to economize on a part that can take the average DIY several hours of skinned knuckles to replace. The real factory unit has be updated multiple times over the years to improve it, and it has shown in how the factory unit performs over time. Contact board sponsor Sunset Porsche, and get the real thing; it will cost a bit more, but will also live.
  20. On the dual row bearings, the original retainer is a wire which is actually under the outer race, and cannot even be seen during extraction. You simply pull on the bearing hard enough to break it, then remove the bearing.
  21. Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  22. +/- 6 degrees is the limits on the cam deviation values at idle, but what is also worth looking at when check the cam deviation is if the values remain steady at an idle, or are jumping around. They should be relatively steady as jumping values indicate excessive "slop" somewhere in the cam drive assembly. The piston skirt shape and coatings are designed to work with the characteristics of the surface they ride on, as are the ring alloy composition. As the factory liners were an aluminum alloy, they would have different thermal expansion characteristics than iron or steel liners, so at temperature, the piston skirts and/or rings can be subjected to significantly different wear than they would see in an alloy liner, which is why we use high quality alloy replacement liners here.
  23. Easy one to answer: the LN replacement for the IMS will come with a large Spiro lock, which is installed after the new bearing goes in to retain it. If you check LN's website, you will see the Spiro lock in the photos Dual row IMS kit
  24. Welcome to RennTech This is a rough one to try and diagnose remotely, plus you have not identified the year of the engine, but I do see a couple of problems. The original cylinders were aluminum, and the factory pistons are designed to be used on aluminum liners, not iron or steel. Usually, using pistons and rings meant for aluminum in iron liners does not end up well. Before you disassembled the engine the second time, did you check the cam deviation values?
  25. Welcome to RennTech While the early cars used simple resistors to control fan speeds, later cars like yours can have pulse width modulation controls, which are electronically controlled modules that simply have to be replaced when they act up. So unless you can find something that isn't properly connected in the fan circuits, you may be buying some very expensive replacement fans........
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.