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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I would say that is one of those plastic rivet fasteners rather than a screw.
  2. No need to double post. I would start with getting the system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure; if it does not, you need to find and correct that problem first.
  3. Welcome to RennTech A new front motor mount will tend to make the engine sit higher rather than lower; something else is not right.
  4. When the cam cover is removed, the chains will be holding it on one end, and the cam retaining plates (top right in your kit in plastic bags) will be holding the other end. You install them first by removing the green rubber plugs at the end of the cam cover, and then remove the cover itself. Once the cover is off, you can install the silver cam saddles from your kit as extra insurance.
  5. Duncan is correct. When you hear cam follower/lifters tapping, you have excessive metal to metal bounce contact because the lifter hydraulic system is not keeping them in contact with the cam lobes. Over time, that will lead to both lifter "mushrooming" and wear on the cam lobes themselves, which are only soft cast iron. Valve train noise is not your friend.
  6. My shop, and others, have encountered noise and VarioCam problems on cars equipped with the DOF, which went away when the oil line off the cylinder head was disconnected and plugged. The exact reason this happens to some installations and not others is not clear, but as oil circulation in these cylinder heads is already a known issue (usually the result of either "varnish" build up or debris in the rather small oil passages found in the heads and particularly in the cam followers or lifters) low oil flow is suspected. So while you may have decent pressure as measured at the oil sender, the actual flow rates inside the cylinder heads may not be adequate, resulting in noise and/or insufficient oil to operate the VarioCam components correctly.
  7. Yours would not be the first one.............
  8. Just to play devil's advocate here, try disconnecting the DOF feed line and plugging it. I'll bet the tapping sound goes away......................
  9. Fuel trims would be a good place to start.................
  10. If the voltage is not where it is supposed to be, all sorts of problems can result. The very first thing to check is the voltage drop across the battery cables; these are well known for developing internal corrosion that causes this exact problem.
  11. Then consider getting some used cats from a bone yard. We have several customers that purchased both cats used this way for less then one new one, and several years on are running just fine.
  12. Almost any global OBD II scanner can do this, but the CEL will pretty quickly return as the problem is still there, and no sophisticated or even Porsche specific tool can turn it off permanently. Kind of a futile move.
  13. It doesn't have to throw codes to run poorly, we see cars from time to time that were barely running, but free of codes; these are what separate those that understand diagnostics from those that throw parts at the problem.
  14. Unfortunately, without codes or other "real time" data capture from the vehicle, this is rather difficult to diagnose remotely. Is it possible for you to capture data while this is happening?
  15. Don't feel bad, the AOS replacement on a 996 is not for everyone and can easily turn into a knuckle busting, "wish I hadn't started this" affair; particularly if they do not have the necessary facilities at their disposal.
  16. Welcome to RennTech Always be careful about using crimp style connectors in these wiring looms; a lot of circuits in these cars are low or even fractional voltage systems, and crimp connectors can cause dissimilar metal corrosion over time, leading to increased resistance and unending problems. We always solder these connections and use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints. We recently had a Boxster in the shop with complaints of weird idle problems and occasional stalling issues. This car had been in and out of a handful of shops trying to solve the problem, and had gone through the replacement of O2 sensor for over $1K, new MAF (twice), etc., with no improvement before it came to us. When we tested the car, we noticed wildly fluctuation in the MAF readings, so we popped in a known good sensor, with no change in the readings. When we tested the MAF sensor wires for resistance, we found one wire had low, but measurable resistance. When we traced that wire, we found a repair done with a crimp connector and heat shrink tubing over it. We cut the repair out, soldered and heat shrink wrapped the new joint, and the MAF readings immediately became normal and steady. The car has run perfectly ever since. Crimp connectors are not always your friend...................
  17. Welcome to RennTech You need to determine what is causing the issue before apply any repair. The correct way to do this is by checking the system operating pressures first using a proper gauge set. If the problem is not low gas, adding excess can lead to major componet failure and big bucks. If the system is low on gas, the nest question becomes why is it low? If you have a slow leak, it is only a matter of time before you are back in the same spot again. The leak should be located and repaired before recharging the system. If you don't have the correct equipment to do this, take it to someone that does. AC repairs are reallly not a backyard DIY item.
  18. For future readers of this thread, watch which year you are looking at as Porsche reversed codes on the later DME, making P0501 the right sensor on cars with a 7.8 DME, which the OP has:
  19. I'm away from the shop at the moment, so working from memeory P0501 is for no speed signal, which can come from multiple sources: Break or short in the wiring from the ABS module to the ECM Break in the wiring from the left rear wheel speed sensor to the ABS module Left rear wheel speed sensor is dead. Pull the left rear wheel and check for a damaged sensor or heavy build up of brake dust. If OK, check the speed sensor for resistance, should be 1.6-1.8K ohms.
  20. Year and model of the car, and what codes?
  21. Have your taken the old connector into a VW or Audi dealer and asked them to try and match it?
  22. Most of the wiring connectors used in these cars are VW/Audi parts, and while Porsche does not sell them separately, VW and Audi do, as do aftermarket vendors as well. You need to try to identify the connector part number and search the internet. You can also try some wrecking yards.
  23. +1 On tight clearance interference engines, like these, reverse rotation is a bad idea.................
  24. Something to contemplate when working on any low or fractional voltage sensor harness: Do not use simple crimp connectors to join wires when replacing harness connectors. Most crimp connectors are aluminum, and the wires copper, so over time you will develop dissimilar metal corrosion between the two, and the car will develop odd problems like stalling for no reason, fluctuating idle issues, etc. We have seen this happen on several DIY MAF harness repairs. The fix is simple: cut out the crimp connectors to expose clean wire, slide a shrink tube section onto one wire, and then solder the wires together using rosin core solder. Then move the heat shrink tube into place and heat shrink it to form a weather tight connection. The idle and low RPM response problems will vanish and never come back. The problem with crimp connectors and their inherent corrosion issue is that the DME relies on a very low voltage signal from the MAF, and any corrosion can significantly alter that signal, leading to problems. With soldered connections, the signal will always be pure.
  25. As long as you recognize that this is rarely a permanent fix.........
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