Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,790
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    205

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I’m sorry, but that type of patch is only good to get a vehicle home. Replace the failed hoses or you will end up chasing your tail trying to fix this.
  2. I would suspect your voltage regulator is on its way out. A cheap and easy fix.
  3. The automatic sound level control was based upon Swiss noise level laws, which require these systems to close automatically between about 10 MPH and 25 MPH (speeds are approximate as the rule is in KPH). Put your window down, push the button on the console to open the system to loud, and slowly drive off; if the auto system is correctly installed, you should hear the car's volume drop around 10 MPH and come back around 25 MPH.
  4. That is the hose supplying vacuum to your power brake booster........................
  5. P2103 is for a high signal on the throttle actuator motor, so I rather doubt it is connected to your vacuum leak issue.
  6. We never fill customers cars to the max line, ever. Closest we get is one line below the max line. Occasional hard driving or track usage will end up with oil in the intake on vehicles without leaking turbos if you overfill the oil system.......................
  7. One or more vacuum lines are either loose or disconnected, most likely the one that supplies vacuum to your brake booster. I'd start there.............
  8. This engine should not be overfilled, drain some oil out of it until it is below the max line.
  9. I would start by trying to read the sensor voltages with the Durametric system.
  10. It cold be anywhere is the circuit between the sensor and the DME.
  11. Welcome to RennTech That code is often caused by wiring or harness connector issues, resulting in a lack of communication between the DME and the sensor.
  12. There isn't any mileage per se, you change them when needed.
  13. Welcome to RennTech While the Porsche oil filter wrench is nice, there are several aftermarket units that work just fine.
  14. The compressor has to be running and have at least the minimum pressure to operate in order to add gas.
  15. Welcome to RennTech To be succinct, you cannot shut this function off, it is part of the car's built in security system to prevent theft. You should also be aware that leaving the key in the ignition when the car is not running also tends to kill the car's battery fairly quickly as many systems remain active as long as the key is inserted.
  16. Just to put the service interval in perspective, we change the fluid in Tips around 40-50K miles, never waiting until 90K..........
  17. Anytime you remove the hydraulic chain tensioners in one of these engines, the engine needs to be locked at TDC with a pin through the lower pulley, and the cams locked at the cylinder heads with the correct cam locking plates for the style engine you are working on (three chain or five chain). To do otherwise is to risk having the cams move due to spring tension and cause the now slack chain(s) to jump time, which will then require an enormous amount of work to correct. The cam locking plates are cheap insurance against that happening,
  18. Please do not "bump" posts, it is against forum rules you agreed to when you joined......
  19. You need a non contact infrared pyrometers that measures the temp of the fluid coming out, even drips, without touching it. It can also be used to check the temperature of the trans pan the same way.
  20. ?? If you are attempting to "bump" your earlier post, that is prohibited by the forum rules you agreed to when you joined. Future "bump" post will be deleted........
  21. Welcome to RennTech The problems you mentioned are both well known and documented here and on other websites. Before buying this vehicle, I would suggest you have a pre purchase inspection done by a qualified Porsche specialist; the money spent on the inspection may just be the best investment you make. Good luck.
  22. Pretty much. The tool is actually a VW item, but still rather rare.
  23. You should remove the strut. Your biggest concern should be safety, you need to compress the springs to remove and install them, so you will need a quality tool setup to do this safely. And yes, you should do both sides.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.