JFP in PA

AGM batteries offer many pluses over a conventional flooded cell: Way better shock/vibration resistance, much longer lived (sometimes 2-3X a flooded cell, I recently replaced a 12 year old AGM because it failed a load test but never failed to start the car), and they are sealed, which means no corrosion on the battery tray and surrounding areas which is a critical issue with these cars.

It sounds like the fans are getting an erroneous signal. You need to scan the vehicle, pulling fuses is not going to isolate the issue.

Welcome to RennTech This is going to be both complicated and potentially expensive. Your car is equipped with pulse width modulation controlled fans which use a signal from the DME to control their fully variable speed controllers. If the PWM fans have gone bad, there is no fixing them, they have to be replaced, and they ain’t cheap. I would suggest scanning the car with a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS or Durametric) and looking at two things: Check your engine temperature sensor for correct readings, and test the fans them selves.

The interior sensor is the one above the inside review mirror, and the system is saying it is defective. I’d suggest looking at the sensor assembly above the mirror.

There are several sources of this type of info, but one of the best is board sponsor Sunset Porsche's part catalog website where you can find anything: Sunset Porsche Parts Catalog

Hate to let the wind out of your sails, but the engineering is not as sound as you might think. The DOF draws oil from a cylinder head, which is well known to be both one of the hottest and dirtiest sources of oil. Ask anyone that rebuilds Porsche cylinder heads about how difficult it is to clean out cylinder heads during a rebuild and you will understand better. There have also been multiple reports of problems with both the VarioCam systems and lifter noise when pulling oil from the heads, both of which ceased when the oil line was plugged. And, as all versions of the OEM IMS bearing seals are know to leak oil into the shaft itself, there have been questions about what that does to the loads on the IMS bearing itself. While some have had success with this design, there are a lot of unanswered long term questions that remain definitively unanswered. If you want a very well designed and proven retrofit system, look at the IMS Solution. It uses a solid bearing that gets its oil feed directly from the oil filter adaptor, which is obviously the cleanest source of oil, and one of the coolest. The system also uses a plug in the shaft behind the bearing to permanently prevent oil intrusion into the shaft. Both of these features are part of multiple patents, which is why no one else uses them. The IMS Solution has no moving parts, and is also the only permanent fix for the IMS issue, and the only retrofit bearing that can even be moved from one engine to another if needed. And yes, it costs a bit more, but this is definitely an area where "you gets what you paid for".

You are correct about tints as some of them contain metallic materials which can totally block a detector. For best reception, the detector should be mounted as high as possible without being blocked by tints. Valentine Research, manufacturers of the highly regarded V1 detector have an excellent "white paper" on their website about optimum mounting locations. Mounting the device has many options, from suction cups to mechanical mounts that suspend from the rearview mirror mount, but all are a matter of personal choice usually based on cosmetic appearance issues. You need to do some research in this area to make a decision. There are multiple hard wiring options available, all you really need is access to a wire that is hot with the ignition in the on position, and a good ground. Some people have used the wiring for the dome light controls above the mirror. As for which brand, you will get a lot of opinions, most based on personal preferences rather than actual performance. My personal choice is the V1, which offers 360 degree detection, bogey counter, and unlimited upgrades as new threat technologies pop up. My choice is based upon reading side by side performance reviews, and nearly 20 years of never being hit with a ticket from radar or laser that went undetected as I have roamed all over the US. Others will probably chime in to tell you this or that brand is better, but to date I have not seen another device to equal the V1's history of consistent performance. Do your homework, you are buying something to keep you out of trouble, so know what you are buying. Good luck.

Probably the axel flange seals going bad.

Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, even the owner's manuals for these cars are considered the copyrighted intellectual property of Porsche, which precludes RennTech, or any other legitimate website, from publishing in any form. Fortunately, the are also relatively inexpensive and available from any Porsche dealer.

It sounds like you definitely have and intake air leak that is affecting both banks.

Welcome to RennTech 996/997 cars are well known for their intermittent electrical issues after washing. Run the car and drive it for a bit around the neighborhood to dry everything out; if it still does it after that, you need to scan for codes.

Used cats out of a wreck.

Depends upon how much work you are ready to do. The PSM system is a complex network of pumps, hydraulic lines, sensors, and control electronics, all of which will need to be swapped, flushed and bled, and then programmed in the final vehicle. Do able? Yes. Worth the effort and expense? That is up to you.......

Aftermarket transmissions are probably twice the length of the Porsche unit, and simply will not even fit in the space, and again, they have no differential, which would make the combined package way too large to fit period. If a Porsche dealer was to undertake this project, which I seriously doubt they would do, your prices would literally skyrocket, probably doubling or even trebling what an independent shop would charge. They would use new or factory remain parts, so your flywheel would be $1500, the gear box around $9500, etc. Add in the dealer's exorbitant labor rates, which are typically twice (or more) those charged by an independent shop. and the project would exceed the cost of buying a complete second manual transmission equipped car; probably well in excess of $20K, which is just plain nuts.

I don't see how you could do this with something other than a Porsche/VW/Audi type trans axle as the transmission and differential is a single and very compact unit. Aftermarket transmission's are just that, a transmission without a differential.

Yes, but it was a God awful amount of work and expense, money you will never get out of the car, and actually ends up reducing the final value of the vehicle (any shop worth its salt will spot the swaps in a future PPI and warn potential buyers away as cars like this tend to be very problematical ) The only project we have ever seen that was worse than this was when a customer wanted to put a Mezger turbo engine in a Boxster; by the time it was done, he could have bought a brand new turbo car with the amount of money spent, and he had a Frankenstein car that nobody wanted to buy. In the end, the owner ended up pulling the Mezger back out and selling it, and then selling the Boxster as a rolling chassis. The amount of money lost on this project was absolutely staggering. Sometimes you need to step back and take a realistic look at these projects and make a rational decision. While interesting, both were completely impractical, and ultimately a huge waste of money, time, and resources. We won’t be doing anymore of either.

Knowledge, like speed, is expensive to acquire

The OBD II manuals were originally in print (discontinued around 2005-2006) and were published by Porsche. There is one three ring binder for each model (986, 996, etc.) and each cost between $1800 and $2300 to buy when they were still in print. Each manual has had numerous updates (the 986 alone has nearly 100 supplement pages) to cover technology changes and super seceded parts. Both because of their huge size, and because Porsche considers them their intellectual copyrighted property, they cannot be reproduced or shared electronically. If you are interested in obtaining one for your car, search the web as they come up for sale from time to time.

Yes, and the short answer is : Don't do it. You are going to need to practiaclly dismantel the entire car to do this (pull out the entire interior to run the shifter cables, install the clutch pedal, etc.). You need a new master cylinder, and are going to have to run hydrualic lines from the front to the back of the car for the clutch system, along with acquiring a working gearbox, axles, gearbox mounts, reprogram the DME, etc, etc. We did this for one die hard customer, and all in parts and labor it ran well north of $10K, which you are nover going to get back when selling the car, and which was priced out at "steal" labor prices because we felt sorry for the owner. Having done one, we won't be doing another. Sell the car and find one configured as you want, or drive it as it is. I know that this is not what you want to hear, but it is the reality of this project; the view simply is not worth the climb.....................

Welcome to RennTech Start with the basics: Does the tachometer "bounce" while you are cranking it over? If it doesn't , you may have a bad crank position sensor. If it does bounce, check to see that you have both fuel pressure and delivery. No fuel, no fire.................

Labor rates vary with geography, so you will have to check them locally. Figure on 4-6 hours, plus parts. A full clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing) should retail in the $400-500, assuming your dual mass flywheel is still good. If it isn't, add $1K. You should update the RMS while doing this, and it is also a great opportunity to retrofit the IMS while it is apart.

That is pretty much correct, the exact location varies a bit by model and equipment. And no, a bad pump won't necessarily loose fluid. You carpets should pull right up once the edge trim is removed.

No, it is not the brake booster. ABS/PSM systems have their own hydraulic pump in the system, which is also one expensive bear, around $2K at retail (item #1):

OK then try this video: How to change a 991 air filters This is for 2112+ 991 cars.

Exactly the same as the last time you asked in 2015: The following procedure is for Boxster only. Removing and installing multi-function switch Removal 1. Hold engine by transport shackle in installed position with special tools 10 -222A and 9591/1 2. Remove the left catalytic converter. 3. Detach selector lever cable from deflection lever and transmission support. 4. Place transmission jack under the transmission. 5. Remove the left transmission support with hydraulic mount. Note: The fastening nut M12 © must not be loosened. The transmission support will otherwise be damaged. A -Transmission support B -Hydraulic mount C -fastening nut M12 6. Release and disconnect cable connection to multi-function switch. 7. Unscrew fastening screws and pull switch off the selector shaft. Installation Install in the reverse order. Put multi-function switch on the selector shaft. The flat point on the serrations in the switch (3) must lie against the flat point on the selector shaft (1). Note: Place multi-function switch on the selector shaft. Do not tilt or use force: you may damage the switch contacts. 2. Turn switch until the fitting bore (4) can be put on the dowel pin (2) on the transmission housing. Tightening torques Multi-functions witch to transmission housing -- (M6) = 8 Nm (6 ftlb.) Transmission prop to transmission housing -- (MID) = 65 Nm (48 ftlb.) Hydraulic mount to carrier side section -- (M8) = 23 Nm (17 ftlb.)