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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yes, and yes. These are diaphragm style pressure plates and have pivots (fulcrum rings below) for the fingers which can fail, or the diaphragm itself can fail. Not a common failure, but it does happen.
  2. None of the oil system mods mentioned will change the car's daily usability. The thermostat controls the minimum steady state operational temperature of the engine, just like the thermostat in your house does. So your engine and oil will be running cooler before you start flogging the car on the track, and cool back down to that steady state once the heat load is removed. Both are better for the engine and particularly for your oil.
  3. You said you were getting ready for a track day; track days have prolonged high G bends and turns at speed, which is where oil starvation sets in and claims unprepared engines.......
  4. Welcome to RennTech Joe Gibbs is a great street oil, but even Jake does not recommend it for track use. You should be looking at their XP9 or XP6 oils for track only use. I would also suggest using a 160F thermostat to help cool both the engine and the oil, which will help with oil frothing under track conditions. I would also highly recommend getting rid of the factory oil filter set up and using a spin on full flow design. Oil starvation is about oil control, as in keeping it where you want it rather than were it wants to be. Sump extensions help, as does the addition of an Accusump oil accumulator. Oil control in one of these engine's is an entire topic all by itself (these are Boxster installations, but the principals are the same):
  5. Welcome to RennTech That could be a very questionable wager; we have seen them fail with well over 100K miles on them, and being a 2002, it is a single row IMS, which has always been the most questionable.
  6. It is always worthwhile to do a preliminary tear down to find out what failed and why as quite often intermix issues can be something as simple as a failed o-ring on the oil cooler. And even if it is something more serious, I would want to know what went south.
  7. An apology is not required.
  8. Call me anything but late for dinner.....................
  9. Depending upon the model year, either a PST II or a PIWIS unit (the PIWIS is backwards compatible to all model years).
  10. Yes, the pill is what the programing is all about.
  11. With defensive electronics like a radar detector, "you gets what you pays for". Cheap is not the route you want to go, unless you value your driver's license the same way.
  12. You are probably over stressing the system bu holding down the button too long. The dash light is triggered by a micro switch which is either defective of not adjusted properly to turn off sooner.
  13. I really don’t understand why people mess around with “hacks” to get DRL, everyone of these cars came from the factory with DRL capability built in, it simply needs to be turned on with a Porsche diagnostic tool.
  14. Porsche declared these manuals, amongst other printed materials, intellectual property of PCNA, and as such have been vigorously prosecuting anyone that provides any type of copies of them outside PCNA. That said, you can usually buy one from a dealer for around $20.
  15. P0344 Camshaft position sensor 1 - open circuit Possible fault cause: - Camshaft rotor (phase sensor wheel) damaged. -Cam Position sensor electrical fault (bad sensor, damaged wiring) You need to the check camshaft rotor for damage and read the cam position sensor for correct signal.
  16. Perhaps not. Porsche has a long history of using the crank sensor to tell the DME that the engine is turning over and it is OK to run the fuel pumps. No signal, or a very intermittent CPS signal and the DME thinks the engine is not turning over and shuts off the fuel pumps. Two usual giveaway signals: Hard starting when warm, and the tachometer does not move when cranking the engine over.
  17. It is a user error; the 996 has no code for a bad fuel pump; the correct diagnostic tests for a bad fuel pump is the check its delivery rates and pressure.
  18. With the vehicle level, you should fill until it starts coming out of the fill port. If you get too much in, let it drain until it reaches the bottom of the port, replace the plug and torque to specs (20 ft. lb.). Then it is Miller time.................
  19. Congratulation's on your acquisition. Hard clutch pedal effort in these cars is typically a sign of a dying pressure plate. I would not let this go very long as it will take the gearbox with it if you are not careful. Also a good time to consider an AOS, IMS, and RMS update while the car is apart (the major expense in doing both of these is the labor to pull the gear box and clutch, so as you are already in there, it is just additional parts).
  20. About average. First of all, these units do not drain 100%, and some people drain them, add some fluid, then drain them again to try and flush out all the old fluid. In the shop, we drain out all that will come out and then refill them to the correct level, which is important. Get more fluid and correct the level; these units are too expensive to replace over a small amount of additional fluid.
  21. You should be able to read the MAF signal voltage with the Durametric software.
  22. A drive cycle is cold start, fully warmed up, drive at highway speeds, shut down, and sit until cold. Any variation in that chain and it is not a full cycle.
  23. The process is not just cold starts, it is cold starts, complete warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut down and complete cool down; repeat. These are known as "drive cycles" as mandated by the EPA. On some models it can happen fairly quickly (50-100 miles), on others it runs longer (200-500 miles).
  24. They will bill you for diagnostic time, ask them what they charge. The shop would have to have a factory PIWIS unit.
  25. You need to have your fuel pressure and delivery checked, which requires some special equipment due to the high pressures involved. A failing fuel system does not always result in codes.
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