JFP in PA

Welcome to RennTech Silver_TT hit one of the majors right off the mark, as IMS failure means a new engine. There are some additional areas to look at such as the water pump, the AOS, the RMS, etc. These cars come with excellent brakes and suspension, which is why they handle so well, so not much is needed there unless you want to seriously track the car, which will also open up the conversation about oil control, sump baffles, and Accusump emergency oiling systems. Exhaust systems are a can of worms as most aftermarket system do not make any more HP than the factory units (and some actually dyno at less HP), plus they add horrific drone problems at cruising speeds. Probably the best here is the optional factory PSE system, which adds a mellow growl without power loss or drone issues. Good luck with your new ride, and just remember the often quoted rule about new cars: They don't exist without photos........

Could be several things, when was the trans last serviced (fluid and filter change), and have you had the car scanned for codes using a Porsche specific scan tool?

Check your coil packs, one or more is cracked.

No additives are needed or recommended, use a top quality filter and good fluid. A lot of people have tried using all types and brands of fluids, we stay with the factory fill and have not had any issues.

You should only need to disconnect one battery cable, which ever is easiest to get at, it is not necessary to touch the cables together. Just be careful working with the positive cable away from the battery as it is hot and can arc easily. Normally, we suggest disconnecting the main ground as that will have the same effect, but eliminates any chance of an arc.

"Handover" is not possible with the Durametric system, but disconnecting the battery should force the DME into a "relearn" cycle.

Let's just say that the factory recommendation is a bit "optimistic". Considering the number of problems people seem to have with these transmissions, particularly with valve body problems, the fluid in your transmission is literally the cheapest thing in it. We change our customer's fluid at around 50K miles, and usually by then it already looks like ink. I'm sure it isn't going to look better at three times the mileage, and level of varnish build up in the tiny valve body passages and debris contained in the fluid would have to be severe by that point.

Welcome to RennTech These engines should not need any fuel additive for normal operation. I would try switching to another brand.

Replace the mechanism, a lot of people have tried repairing these, none have succeeded in the long term.

Nearly all control modules need some programing, which will require access to a PIWIS unit.

Welcome to RennTech You have obvious misfires, but would appear to also have a vacuum leak somewhere.

I have no experience with the Toyota fluid as we do not use it. You need to read the trans fluid temps in orders to obtain the correct fill level. This can be done with a simple thermocouple or a non contact pyrometer during a DIY fluid change, but measuring it fluid temp is important.

Welcome to RennTech What fluid did you put in the trans, and what procedure did you use to make sure it is properly filled?

Welcome to RennTech It should be on the interior sill by the pillar just behind the seat. You need to remove the seat, the sill cover and pull up the rug, which should expose it.

Think about it: I have never seen a gas pump nozzle with a magnet on or in it. If it needs a magnet to do anything, something is wrong with it...

High resistance may indicate that there is an internal short in the sensor, the ohms readings should be relatively low.

Hard to say without looking first.

Translated: "Problem solved. The switch is located under the driver's seat, just to the left of the battery box. The switch is easily accessible through the most pre-cut part of the carpet, attached to a plastic cover (see photo). If you remove the seat and peel the precut carpet covering the battery, you will have a much better view. BTW, the seat is very easy to remove. This switch has some great design features. The last 3 images should illustrate the features and the solution to my problem. Note that the channel that guides the sliding switch is C-shaped. I believe that the ADVANCE position allows you to lock the switch in what I would call manual engagement of the discharge protection - use this position when storing or transporting your vehicle to prevent the battery from being discharged. The AFT and OUT positions are those where the switch is located after an automatic trip of the discharge protection logic (think of the tripped circuit breaker position). With the switch in any position between here and FWD, the discharge protection remains active. The AFT and IN position is visually not very distinct from the AFT and OUT position. I found it basically by accident and it is easier to determine if it is in the correct position by feeling rather than visually. The switch on my vehicle does not "naturally" like to go in this position, it takes a little finagling. Check that it is in the correct position by turning on the ignition and observing the absence of a yellow battery discharge / battery warning message on the MFD. I guess this switch went off because my old battery was low and / or during replacement because of the low voltage of my starter pack. The concept of the switch is disconcerting: in the darkness of an underlying switch, one might think that it just moves back and forth. You may also not perceive the positional difference of about 1 mm from normal to the triggered value. In addition, a switch label and / or mention in the manual would not hurt!"

Relatively easy, it is under the dash on the passenger's side.

Check your battery (load test) and do a voltage drop test on the primary battery cables.

Welcome to RennTech We see a lot of cars that are anywhere from slightly overfilled to way overfilled with oil. These engine’s do not appreciate this and can respond by occasional smoke outbreaks. We always keep our customer’s cars 1-2 bars below the top line, and every car that passes through the shop gets their crankcase vacuum level checked; if the show more than 5 inches of water when fully warmed up, they are a candidate for a new AOS, which can also cause the infamous Porsche smokescreen.

It is not common behavior. You need to recognize that when you changed your old fluid, you only got about 35-40% of it out, the lion’s share is still inside the converter which does not gravity drain. Unfortunately, Porsche instructions are to change the Tip fluid at 90K miles, which is WAY to long, we typically service customer’s Tips around 40-50K miles. When we see one with fluid as bad as yours, we typically drain it, change the filter, and then do three fill, run, and drain again cycles to try and flush out as much of the old fluid as possible. And before you ask, no, there is no way to pressure flush this trans like many other brands can easily be done. Good luck.

Oil and oil filters always tend to start arguments, most of which are totally unfounded. That said, if you are still running the factory cartridge style oil filter, I would use a Wix/NAPA Gold 57211: Much better made than the OEM filters which still use glued on end caps that tend to leak. The Wix is embedded in plastic and has a internal support cage as well. Readily available and most auto part stores. Even in Florida, you should be fine with a quality full synthetic 5W-40 oil like Gibbs DT40. Like many other shops, we are no longer fans of M1 product's.

The seat is more than "a little bit" larger, and will cause inference problems with the console and door jam side.

You should NOT remove any of the tensioners on a three chain engine, or a five chain for that matter, without first locking the crank at TDC to unload the cams, and then locking the cams with the proper tool. Not doing so is running a very high risk of the valve spring pressures causing everything to turn and the cams to jump time, which then creates a major league headache to repair.