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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Rising resistance inside the primary cables. While this is a very common problem on 996 Porsches, and PCNA released a TSB and redesigned cables as the result, any primary cable can develop internal resistance which causes both a voltage and amperage drop, which can place a strain on electrical components like the starter. Testing for it is quite simple: You measure the voltage at the battery end, and then at the starter end; if the voltage drop is more than 0.5 Volt, the cable is toast and needs to be replaced.
  2. I would also be looking at voltage drop values on the primary battery cables.
  3. If the hard top did not sit on top of the clam shell, it would not be weather tight; so if it is sitting on the clamshell, it has to come off for the clamshell to move and allow the soft top to go far enough up to be put in the service position. Not a "stupid design" in the least as it gives owners that want four seasons use of the car winter protection the soft top cannot supply.
  4. You cannot get at the engine from above with the hard top installed, it has to come off.
  5. Same problem, the stiffer the mount, the more the vibration.
  6. Loren is spot on, if memory serves, that rubber plug is rather large and can easily accommodate a harness:
  7. The door card is the decorative panel that you see from inside the car, it's technical name is a door card:
  8. Congratulations, you have just discovered why these mounts are not for the street. If you really want to get the maximum detrimental effect of these things, you should have added a lightweight single mass flywheel. We had a customer come in with complaints about noise and vibrations in a 996 with the semi solid mounts and lightweight flywheel already installed, and when I test drove the car it vibrated so bad I couldn't see where I was going just going down the road. And prolonged performance driving use of them can also weaken or crack the engine cases, which is why the RS and RSR factory race cars still carry rubber mounts. Not all aftermarket "performance" ideas are good ones.............
  9. Duncan is correct. As I understand it, the DME and immobilizer box have to both "handshake" (acknowledge each other) and then communicate certain data in order for the car to start; it takes a lot more than just some electrical current to make it happen, otherwise there would be a lot of missing Porsches............
  10. Just to put this to bed: We get quite a few 996/997 through the shop on a day in, day out basis; and the ONLY ones that smell of fuel have something wrong, the rest are stink free.
  11. CPS is the Crank Position Sensor, which is mounted on the side of the bell housing. You should had a decent technical reference source like the Bentley service manual for the 996. Your fuel system should retain 3.8+/- 0.2 bar (around 55 psig) with the engine off, and sow 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar (48 psig) running at an idle. With the engine off, your fuel pump should deliver 850 ml of fuel in 30 seconds.
  12. OK, from your description, the car sounds like it has a fuel issue, which means either the pump is going south, or the CPS is defective and preventing the fuel pump from running correctly. Just because the pump makes noise does not mean it is delivering the correct pressure or volume of fuel to run the injectors, the pump and CPS need to be tested, as CPS problems are often intermittent.
  13. It would not be the first time........
  14. It sounds like you have a failing heater core. This can be confirmed by pressure testing the cooling system, which should not hold if the heater core is failing. If it is bad, it is not a bad DIY job to replace it as it pulls up and out from under the front hood. Good luck.
  15. Welcome to RennTech. Two quick things come to mind: Have them check the fuel pressure and delivery rates, and have them also check the crank position sensor.
  16. Yes, it can be started from above and then competed from below. Before starting, gets some photos of the routing from above and below to use as reference as the new ones will need to go the same way.
  17. I fully understand the complexity of the Lambo, we just had a new Ferrari 488 Spider up in the air and it looked like more moving parts than the space shuttle under there with their active aero stuff. Doing the clutch on the ground is really not all that bad, the only real issue is the flywheel bolts; 19 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees. The last 45 of those 90 can be murder unless you are built like King Kong. I actually walked out into the shop once to see an intern literally hanging on his longest breaker bar with his feet off the ground. Not fun....
  18. The important point on the dual mass is that it twist no more than 15MM in each direction, and then when released returns to its original position. If it moves more than 15MM, or does not return, it needs to go. We always replace the RMS whenever we have a car apart; it is less than $20 and takes 5 min. to do, but cost a whole lot more time and effort to get at it again. The newer PTFE seals are much better, but require that all surfaces be perfectly straight and clean, not even finger prints, and that the seal be installed 13MM from the flywheel mating face on the crank.
  19. Did you try a coolant system pressure test before tearing everything apart? I'm a little concerned about finding coolant in the exhaust system....... The O-rings on the oil cooler are all that separate the oil from the coolant, assuming that the cooler itself has not failed internally, which is another possibility. There are four openings in the bottom of the cooler, two oil, two coolant, the simplest way to test the cooler is to plug three openings and pull a vacuum on the fourth.
  20. It is kind of hard to tell what he (or she) is referring to by "a little loose". There is a factory flywheel testing procedure where you determine how much you can twist the dual mass and if it returns correctly; if they have use this procedure and it is either over the limit or does not return properly, scrap it. DualFlywheelTechBulletin.pdf
  21. Dual mass flywheels cannot be resurfaced; doing so would cut into the elastomer which would ultimately cause the unit to fail. Your current flywheel can be cleaned and the surface buffed with something like a Scotch Brite pad, but that is about it.
  22. Yes, and yes. These are diaphragm style pressure plates and have pivots (fulcrum rings below) for the fingers which can fail, or the diaphragm itself can fail. Not a common failure, but it does happen.
  23. None of the oil system mods mentioned will change the car's daily usability. The thermostat controls the minimum steady state operational temperature of the engine, just like the thermostat in your house does. So your engine and oil will be running cooler before you start flogging the car on the track, and cool back down to that steady state once the heat load is removed. Both are better for the engine and particularly for your oil.
  24. You said you were getting ready for a track day; track days have prolonged high G bends and turns at speed, which is where oil starvation sets in and claims unprepared engines.......
  25. Welcome to RennTech Joe Gibbs is a great street oil, but even Jake does not recommend it for track use. You should be looking at their XP9 or XP6 oils for track only use. I would also suggest using a 160F thermostat to help cool both the engine and the oil, which will help with oil frothing under track conditions. I would also highly recommend getting rid of the factory oil filter set up and using a spin on full flow design. Oil starvation is about oil control, as in keeping it where you want it rather than were it wants to be. Sump extensions help, as does the addition of an Accusump oil accumulator. Oil control in one of these engine's is an entire topic all by itself (these are Boxster installations, but the principals are the same):
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