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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    At the end of the day, it is your car and your money. Just be aware that there always has been a limit as to how cold an automotive AC can be allowed to get; some manufacturers actually set a minimum permissible temperature for their system in order to prevent some rather strange problems. We actually had a customer that complained his system seemed to be cooling fine and then would just shut off for no apparent reason during a rather warm and humid period. After some intense diagnostics, we discovered that his system was getting so cold (very low 30F air temps), that under some humidity conditions, the car was actually freezing over the inside heat exchanger, blocking air low until it defrosted, giving the appearance that the AC had quit. We traced the problem to an AC compressor replacement prior to his purchase of the vehicle, where the wrong part number compressor was installed that had a higher capacity rating than the factory unit. We evacuated the system, replace the compressor with the correct part number, recharged the system and found the air temps inside the car's ductwork now stayed at around 41F, one degree above the manufacture's minimum allowable internal air temp. The car never froze up again. While getting you system's AC temps as low as possible seems like a worth goal, sometimes the law of unintended consequences rears its ugly head............
  2. JFP in PA
    I do not have a useful recommendation but would suggest contacting your local chapter of the Porsche Club of America as they typically have background on known Tiptronic repair facilities in your geographic location.
  3. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Tiptronic problems are never fun, and often complex and difficult to diagnose and repair, which is why many shops shy away from working on Tips. Potential issues causing P0740: -ATF supply (as you have fresh fluid and assuming it has been topped up correctly, this would only apply if the filter were the problem and not moving sufficient fluid) -The torque converter itself is bad. To properly diagnose this, you would need some very specialized and very expensive tooling. -Pressure regulator 4 is problematic -The electrical triggering connection to pressure regulator 4 is bad (shorted, disconnected) -Hydraulic control unit (read valve body has sticking valves)
  4. JFP in PA
    I always remain circumspect of "magic bullet" additives, especially those touted on the internet, and particularly when used in very expensive and sensitive systems like air conditioning. The ac systems in these cars have proven to be both effective and long lived as designed, I don't really see any advantageous reason to do this as a well maintained and functioning system doesn't need any help.
  5. JFP in PA
    No problem, some posts don't get answered for a simple reason: Neither form members nor staff are familiar with the particular subject, like swapping electrical or electronic components from different year or models. While we have seen a lot of unusual things over the years, like trying to transplant a 996 Mezger turbo engine into an early Boxster, I would be the first to say we haven't seen absolutely everything, and for the sake of fidelity and technical accuracy, sometimes we simply do not have a functional answer. 😉
  6. JFP in PA
    Just because no one has responded to your specific question, that does not mean that there is anything amiss with the forum. You may be the first to attempt this kind of swap, so YOU may be the best person to post the answer. 😉
  7. JFP in PA
    +1
  8. JFP in PA
    👍
  9. JFP in PA
    If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.
  10. JFP in PA
    The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).
  11. JFP in PA
    Could be the harness, or just low voltage on the harness.
  12. JFP in PA
    Plug or coil pack on cylinder 4.
  13. JFP in PA
    Sorry to hear, you made the effort but sometimes the damage is just too extensive because salt water immersion is death to so many electrical and electronic components. Good luck with your new ride………
  14. JFP in PA
    The valve, however, is located on the engine under the passenger side intake plenum. at a minimum you'll have to remove the two crossover tubes to access it. worst case you have to pull the whole passenger side assembly off.
  15. JFP in PA
    Difficult to analyze remotely; could be something sticking like the ignition switch or starter relay; but either would require more diagnostics................
  16. JFP in PA
    Not really. Get the bushing installed, if it still sticks, try spraying the plunger with DuPont's dry film Teflon spray (leaves a dry film of lubricant that does not attract dirt):
  17. JFP in PA
    If the solenoid were bad, it would throw its own code. Yes, it is dirty, but probably not related to you problems...................
  18. JFP in PA
    The Durametric software cannot do this type of coding, or even see it for that matter, that requires a PIWIS system. Good luck......
  19. JFP in PA
    Well, the issue remains, the immobilizer is not talking to the DME, which may require access to a PIWIS system to find out if the immobilizer has lost the internal car specific coding the links it to the DME, or if it has just otherwise gone dead for some reason. It could also be a coincidental wiring problem that is blocking that connection, which would require circuit continuity testing, but as long as that lack of communication exists, the car is not going to start.
  20. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Codes indicate that the DME is not seeing the required "handshake" connection with your immobilizer and preventing the car from starting. I have to ask the obvious questions: at any time during the removal or replacement of the battery, did you either see a spark or a an electric arc? Is it possible that you installed the new battery with the terminals reversed, even momentarily?
  21. JFP in PA
    The flap should lock when the car does.
  22. JFP in PA
    Sometimes these systems store a lot of secondary codes that confuse what is really going on. I would start by clearing all the codes and then see what comes back.
  23. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.
  24. JFP in PA
    We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......
  25. JFP in PA
    You should be comparing the voltages for the O2 sensor ahead of the TWC to those after the TWC: The voltage curve for the senor after the TWC should be a relatively straight line, the one ahead the should be a sine wave like pulse; if the voltage curves are both sine waves, the cat is toast.............
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