Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,862
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    213

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The valve, however, is located on the engine under the passenger side intake plenum. at a minimum you'll have to remove the two crossover tubes to access it. worst case you have to pull the whole passenger side assembly off.
  2. Difficult to analyze remotely; could be something sticking like the ignition switch or starter relay; but either would require more diagnostics................
  3. Not really. Get the bushing installed, if it still sticks, try spraying the plunger with DuPont's dry film Teflon spray (leaves a dry film of lubricant that does not attract dirt):
  4. If the solenoid were bad, it would throw its own code. Yes, it is dirty, but probably not related to you problems...................
  5. The Durametric software cannot do this type of coding, or even see it for that matter, that requires a PIWIS system. Good luck......
  6. Well, the issue remains, the immobilizer is not talking to the DME, which may require access to a PIWIS system to find out if the immobilizer has lost the internal car specific coding the links it to the DME, or if it has just otherwise gone dead for some reason. It could also be a coincidental wiring problem that is blocking that connection, which would require circuit continuity testing, but as long as that lack of communication exists, the car is not going to start.
  7. Welcome to RennTech Codes indicate that the DME is not seeing the required "handshake" connection with your immobilizer and preventing the car from starting. I have to ask the obvious questions: at any time during the removal or replacement of the battery, did you either see a spark or a an electric arc? Is it possible that you installed the new battery with the terminals reversed, even momentarily?
  8. The flap should lock when the car does.
  9. Sometimes these systems store a lot of secondary codes that confuse what is really going on. I would start by clearing all the codes and then see what comes back.
  10. Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.
  11. We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......
  12. You should be comparing the voltages for the O2 sensor ahead of the TWC to those after the TWC: The voltage curve for the senor after the TWC should be a relatively straight line, the one ahead the should be a sine wave like pulse; if the voltage curves are both sine waves, the cat is toast.............
  13. No. Look at the other sensor code, P0341, the code for cam position sensor #1 showing an open circuit due either to harness issues (shorts, broken wires). If the sensor has an open circuit, a harness issue or possibly the sensor itself, the DME may be seeing confusing data. I would start with the open circuit code first...........
  14. For future reference, RennTech discourages the sharing of materials Porsch label's as intellectual property, and forbids the sharing of such information on this website, which you had agreed not to do when you became a member. You can obtain the information you seek from legitimate sources such as Bentley.
  15. P0341 is the code for cam position sensor #1 showing an open circuit due either to harness issues (shorts, broken wires). P1340 if for the timing chain on the same bank being out of position. Everything else are simple misfires.
  16. What does the central locking/alarm/immobilizer unit under the seat look like internally, are their any signs of corrosion or water damage?
  17. That is correct, and not the cause of your problems...........
  18. Your alternator is not functioning, running you should have 14.5V DC. Pull the alternator, check the wiring connections to be sure they are tight and seated, if they are you are in the market for a voltage regulator..........
  19. I'd start with checking the alternator, is it putting out 14.5 V DC at idle? If not, I would check to make sure you properly reconnected the wiring.
  20. The sensor should be showing a millivolt AC signal with the tire turning that varies with the wheel speed.
  21. Yes, there is a rear manual release, just like the front. We see cars all the time that are stored in climate controlled, secure garages with rodent related wire damage. Time to start looking at the wire harnesses, particularly where you said it was warm or smelled like burning............
  22. 1. Are you sure the sides harness has not be switched? 2. Have you tested the harness for continuity to be sure it isn't damaged? 3. Using a multimeter, have you tested the sides for signal generation by spinning the tire with the meter connected to the sensor?
  23. Welcom to RennTech Yes, the Tip fluid level needs to be checked from underneath and with the trans warmed up. I am always concerned about sudden onset electrical problems in these cars after they have been sitting for a while. The wiring harnesses are capable of attracting rodents that seem to love to chew on the insulation, resulting in all sorts of problems up to and including burning the car to the ground. You need to do a search for the manual front hood release cable (video here:
  24. The diagram I posted is a simplistic one from the Porsche factory OBD II diagnostics manual. The wire colors and pin numbering changed on different model years, but the principles were still the same: the sensor has three wires, one for power, one for signal to the DME, and one for ground. Where did you get your diagram from?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.