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JFP in PA
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About JFP in PA
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Help me identify oil pan bits
JFP in PA replied to Matt Mero's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Which tells me there is nothing wrong with either your guides or the chains themselves. Looking at the photos you posted of the guides, they look like the newer design, possibly indicating that they have already been replaced. If that is the case, the debris in your sump may be the wear bits from the old units. -
Help me identify oil pan bits
JFP in PA replied to Matt Mero's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
What were the cam deviation values for the engine? Spec is +/- 6 degrees; when these cam pads are too worn, we see deviation values in the high single digits due to excessive slack in the chains. -
Just be sure to get the latest version, we have never had any problems with the OEM replacements.
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Factory.
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The easiest and probably cheapest way as well is to add a small amount of coolant compatible UV dye to the system and run the engine for a bit. The dye will leave a highly visible (with a UV light source) trail to exactly where it is coming from. We use this technique regularly in the shop to trace difficult leak sources.
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alternator decoupler replacement for a 986 (02)
JFP in PA replied to Sputter's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I don't see why it wouldn't work, but overspeed pulley adds a complication and potential future failure point that the fixed pulley does not have. -
Back in the day, I remember them being optional parts. There are currently multiple used sets on eBay, and there were some aftermarket suppliers as well, such as an outfit called Dido Tuning :
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They may no longer be available due to the part's age, which is not uncommon. You might check with a dealer to see if any still are on the shelf somewhere in the system.
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A scan of the car with a Porsche specific tool (Durametric, PIWIS) can identify if the M535 anti-theft/immobilizer system (Central Locking Unit or CLU) is present and functioning. Diagnostic tools like Durametric or Porsche System Testers can query the alarm module for error codes, confirming its status. This system is also located under the driver's seat.
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Check your fuel trims, bet at least one bank is running lean.
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We have seen quite a few complaints of engine speed related noises being tracked down to bearings going bad in tensioner rollers, water pumps, alternators, etc. I would start by removing the belt and trying to rotate the various components by hand, which often identifies the problem unit without even starting the engine. Everything should turn smooth and quietly; anything that doesn't should be suspect.
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Welcome to RennTech I would start by looking at the front engine mount beneath the water pump. I would also consider temporarily removing the serpentine belt and then start the engine to see if it goes away as it could be one of the belt driven components or the idler assembly.
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Air Conditioning Additives
JFP in PA replied to Spartan1-6's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
At the end of the day, it is your car and your money. Just be aware that there always has been a limit as to how cold an automotive AC can be allowed to get; some manufacturers actually set a minimum permissible temperature for their system in order to prevent some rather strange problems. We actually had a customer that complained his system seemed to be cooling fine and then would just shut off for no apparent reason during a rather warm and humid period. After some intense diagnostics, we discovered that his system was getting so cold (very low 30F air temps), that under some humidity conditions, the car was actually freezing over the inside heat exchanger, blocking air low until it defrosted, giving the appearance that the AC had quit. We traced the problem to an AC compressor replacement prior to his purchase of the vehicle, where the wrong part number compressor was installed that had a higher capacity rating than the factory unit. We evacuated the system, replace the compressor with the correct part number, recharged the system and found the air temps inside the car's ductwork now stayed at around 41F, one degree above the manufacture's minimum allowable internal air temp. The car never froze up again. While getting you system's AC temps as low as possible seems like a worth goal, sometimes the law of unintended consequences rears its ugly head............ -
I do not have a useful recommendation but would suggest contacting your local chapter of the Porsche Club of America as they typically have background on known Tiptronic repair facilities in your geographic location.
