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JFP in PA
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Weird stalling problem
JFP in PA replied to geoff's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer. -
Weird stalling problem
JFP in PA replied to geoff's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
The AOS can either be pin pointed or eliminated by having the car's sump vacuum level checked with a digital manometer (most quality shops have them as the AOS is a perpetual issue; surprise the dealer didn't do this).
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Could be the harness, or just low voltage on the harness.
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Plug or coil pack on cylinder 4.
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Sorry to hear, you made the effort but sometimes the damage is just too extensive because salt water immersion is death to so many electrical and electronic components. Good luck with your new ride………
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987.1 Boxster Secondary Air Pump replacement
JFP in PA replied to alex222's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
The valve, however, is located on the engine under the passenger side intake plenum. at a minimum you'll have to remove the two crossover tubes to access it. worst case you have to pull the whole passenger side assembly off. -
Difficult to analyze remotely; could be something sticking like the ignition switch or starter relay; but either would require more diagnostics................
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Boxster Locking Issues
JFP in PA replied to Peter Bradshaw's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Not really. Get the bushing installed, if it still sticks, try spraying the plunger with DuPont's dry film Teflon spray (leaves a dry film of lubricant that does not attract dirt): -
If the solenoid were bad, it would throw its own code. Yes, it is dirty, but probably not related to you problems...................
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The Durametric software cannot do this type of coding, or even see it for that matter, that requires a PIWIS system. Good luck......
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Well, the issue remains, the immobilizer is not talking to the DME, which may require access to a PIWIS system to find out if the immobilizer has lost the internal car specific coding the links it to the DME, or if it has just otherwise gone dead for some reason. It could also be a coincidental wiring problem that is blocking that connection, which would require circuit continuity testing, but as long as that lack of communication exists, the car is not going to start.
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Welcome to RennTech Codes indicate that the DME is not seeing the required "handshake" connection with your immobilizer and preventing the car from starting. I have to ask the obvious questions: at any time during the removal or replacement of the battery, did you either see a spark or a an electric arc? Is it possible that you installed the new battery with the terminals reversed, even momentarily?
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Boxster Locking Issues
JFP in PA replied to Peter Bradshaw's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
The flap should lock when the car does. -
Boxster Locking Issues
JFP in PA replied to Peter Bradshaw's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Sometimes these systems store a lot of secondary codes that confuse what is really going on. I would start by clearing all the codes and then see what comes back. -
Turn signal indicator blinks rapidly
JFP in PA replied to royp4's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Welcome to RennTech If you do not have access to a wiring diagram for the vehicle, probably the easiest way to check the ground is to pull the bulb in the light and use a multimeter to check the condition of the ground at the bulb socket.
