unclejosh

I love everything about my 997, except for the OEM horn note, which is a combination of a 412 Hz and 355 Hz horns IMHO, the horn note sounds like a Chevy Citation or similar, not an iconic supercar, so I thought it would be "charming" to fit a proper retro sounding beep-beep euro-horn. I found such a horn at Summit Racing of all places, and it is plenty loud at 116 dB, and sounds like a VW/Porsche horn of yesteryear: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku The Hella part # is: HLA-002768082 As shown below, the two horns live behind the front bumper cover or fascia. I note that this is the plastic cover over the bumper, not the bumper itself. Some folks refer to the fascia as the bumper, anyway......... To remove the front bumper cover, I refer to the thread here-I printed out the following instructions and followed them closely: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-...er-removal.html I want to emphasize that this job is not easy but not hard, but rather time consuming, and best performed with a friend to help. Start early in the morning. Use the proper jack and failsafe jackstands for safety. Also, there are alot of screws, so use a cupcake pan or similar to keep them sorted...... I have retained the photos and text on my computer in case they ever get deleted, so PM me if they do.... After removal of the bumper cover, you will see the horn bracket and the two horns as per below: What you want to do is swap out the OE 400 Hz horn for the Hella disc horn. The OE 355 Hz horn should be moved to the back position and the new Hella horn to the front. Double check fitment of the new horn by placing the air intake/fasica back on, and adjust horn mount as needed. The fit is tight, but I assure you, it will fit ! You may need to affix a piece of foam or rubber onto the air intake where the horn body comes close. This will prevent the horn body edge from rubbing on the intake due to road vibration. Also note that these disc horns must vibrate like crazy on their brackets to work properly and thus must hang off the supplied specialty horn mounting bracket. Wiring: OEM connectors are specialty, a a hybrid bullet type. Very sano. However, I could not locate aftermarket connectors like the OEM style. Instead, I retained the OEM connector, and used wire taps into the stock wires. From the wire taps I made little jumpers or pigtails terminated with female blade style connectors. The Hella horn uses male blades. The connectors and taps are easily obtained at Radio Shack. Below I share a picture of the horn installed. To finish the job, just button everything back up as per instructions, or install stainless radiator grills as I did, which is the subject of another DIY. I will upload or provide link to an audio file shortly to complete this DIY. Regards, unclejosh

Valentine 1 Dome Light Hardwire Install Disclaimer: As per previous threads, this is a simple and easy install, but, tapping into the domelight hot wires will cause the detector to turn-off and on when you open or close the doors, for example. If this bothers you, then hardwire to fuse box as per other threads.. ( I think Coochas on 6 speed recently posted and fuse box hard wire DIY). A) Remove dome light console by gently popping out 2 remote buttons with a small flathead screwdriver. Two phillips head screws are revealed. Look in manual if you are unsure about this. B) Remove the screws and gently remove console. The back end will pop off via 2 retainer plugs and sockets by gentle prying. See pic. C) As per picture: 1) Press fit V1 black wire junction connector in front of sunroof motor, this is a perfect fit. 2) Push excess wires under front headliner, there is plenty of room. 3) Tap into dome light hot, brown wire with white stripe using a 18-22 gauge splicer/tap from Radio Shack. The one from Valentine is too big. D) Do not use ground associated with sunroof motor, the ground will be interrupted when sunroof is operated. Use hole for dome light console fixation. E) Run appropriate amount of phone style wire through front of console towards windshield, and button up dome light console

I am very pleased with the unit. BT syncs seamlessly with my BB 8130 and performs flawlessly. My only complaint is 225 contact max. in phonebook - but this is a Porsche OE restriction, not MObridge Parrot mic near dome light works well, as reported by others on other end of the line - low noise and clear communication. The Ipod interface works well, but sometimes does not respond instantly to button input. A 1 second pause before response to input is observed sometimes..... Otherwise perfect. mObridge links: http://www.mobridgeinc.com/vehicles/porsche http://www.mobridgeinc.com/node/63 Install: Follow PCM removal : http://www.caymanclub.net/reviews/showproduct.php?product=92 and/or Step 1 - Remove small carpeted trim piece from side of center console by PCM (Beside PCM) using Torx wrench size T-30 Step 2 - Remove two leather side trim pieces using Torx wrench size T-20 Step 3 - Using 5mm Allen wrench turn four (two each side) black hex locks 1/4 - 1/2 turn (CCW, I think) to unlatch side locks. Do not force these. They turn very easily in the correct direction. Open glove box on passenger side to access these latches. Step 4 On pasenger side, back out 7 mm hex head screw Step 4 - Carefully slide out PCM A-pillar: route wire up a pillar and through headliner- use a credit card or similiar to push behind trim....there are other threads on this..... After pulling out PCM, swap fiber optic strands CAREFULLY as per MoBridge instructions for Tyco connectors and tap into power and ground using 12 gauge taps and 22 gauge blade connectors from Radio Shack. Here is a picture showing the taps and orange fiber optic cables. A sweet place to mount the unit with extremely easy access for SD card firmware upgrades is behind the glovebox, in a slot with just the right width, under a foam trim piece. I used industrial strength Velcro form Ace hardware to mount the light unit behind the glovebox, The following photos show the mounting of the unit in the slot between firewall and back of glovebox: Ready for insertion, with all wires and cables routed, I added a cable sheath as well: View looking up from floor on passenger side- unit mounted in slot between electrical control box and plenum chamber, just behind glovebox, and held fast with extra strength Velcro - no bump will dislodge this from the velcro !: Finally, snake the cable up from underneath into the glovebox:

The following is a DIY Muffler Install for the 997. Very similar to the 996, but details might not be obvious or posted. Here I will key off what is known already about the 996, and will assume reasonable shade tree mechanic ability. First, I refer to the fine threads: Removal of the rear bumper cover and muffler: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16935 996 sport exhaust and bypass pipe install: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p=6entry6 Here are some items to consider and watch out for: 1) Find a safe stable way to jack up the car with fail-safe in case of jack failure. 2) Remove rear wheels - it is alot easier to remove and install the mufflers with them off 3) Remove rear bumper cover - Remove rear tail lights to access a lone hidden torx screw and see 1 torx in wheel well, in addition to the other obvious screws under the engine lid and under the car - it is alot easier to remove and install the mufflers with the cover off 4) Remove heat shields to access the mufflers - see my pics below, the fasteners are very obvious 5) To remove and re-install new mufflers, follow the above threads...... 6) I used WD-40 soak on muffler fasteners prior to removal and used aluminum anti-seize compound to lube up muffler joints for install. 7) I found that a ratchet with a pivoting head and just the socket was more useful and easier than a ratchet a universal joint and extension and socket. Here are some pictures which may help: Torx behind tail light for bumper cover removal Torx in wheel well for bumper cover removal Exhaust shield that needs to be removed Exhaust shield after removal