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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. The car is equipped with 2 fuel pumps, in the morning at first start, when you grab the outside door handle to open the door, one fuel pump should run for a sort time to pre load the injection system and to perform an easy start. In the fuse/connector/relay box, situated under the black plastic (grill) trim in front of the driver side wiper, you will find 2 fuel pump fuses and 2 fuel pump relays (1x pump 1 1x pump 2). Remove both relays, ignition on, make a bridge between pin 30 and 87 alternately between pump 1 and pump 2, the pump which doesn't run is defective. Open the rear doors and pull up the rear seats to check this out (the pumps are situated left and right side under the rear seats) It could be the left one.
  2. Next time it will be no longer a problem, i'm pretty sure on that. Glad it is fixed cheap.
  3. Is it not possible to replace the seat covers with new ones in the original color, black seats in a grey colored interior doesn't exist and have a cheap look, especially in a Turbo. Just my opinion.
  4. 996 with sunroof will have this issue, remove the rear part of the head liner to check the connection(s) between the sunroof unit and the drain tube(s), they will leak after a while.
  5. Check the oil level first, cold engine and car on a flat floor, 2 liter is a lot (0.5 liter under lowest level) and therefore difficult to check. Remove the potential overfill ASAP.
  6. Find someone with a PIWIS tool, enter a calibration and read the codes, the best way to start with IMHO.
  7. Cylinder 4 is closest to the firewall, cylinder bank 1, right side of the car (with the oil filler cap). Success.
  8. Weird, are you sure about the correct coil and connector install, cylinder 3 and 4 are not very easily accessible (V8). Came the problem suddenly (spontaneously) or after a modification, work on the car or something ? The relationship between engine running time/engine temp. and the showed codes looks strange to me, sure there are no further codes in the memory and no CEL ? The actual values should provide more clarity to the problem, in some cases the throttle body was the culprit. Clear the codes, do a test drive and check the codes again with a PIWIS if possible.
  9. It's rather light alloy, it cant cost a fortune IMHO.
  10. Read out the fault codes, there are certainly codes in the DME memory.
  11. It could be a bad injector or valve lifter (vario-cam + system). Use a PIWIS diagnostic tool to find out.
  12. Grab the rear end of the switch and turn (bayonet catch). It can be hard.
  13. Check and clear the codes with a diagnostic tool. If the issues still remains, there is no other option than a replacement IMHO.
  14. markradogna, it's time to revisit your dealer, there is something wrong with his "factory required update" action probably in the DME. Both fans should run at the same time in the same fan speed depends engine temp. and/or AC pressure. (997/987)
  15. The black plastic tubes are used in the older cylinder head designs > MY02, they are not longer used from MY03.
  16. I'm pretty sure about that, 986 (bar) and 987 (key) as well.
  17. Every time you disconnect the battery, the DME (and some other control boxes) carry out a reset. All fault codes and actual values are erased, it depends on time and order of importance of the issue, the CEL will come on again. Read and note the codes and actual values ALWAYS BEFORE you disconnect the battery, that is the most important.
  18. It could be a resonance noise coming from the differential part of the Tip. if the noise is only speed related, 35/45 mph. independent of the selected gear. You have to diagnose this issue more precisely, it could be a lot more.
  19. I would take the VIN# as reference instead of the data base to order parts, much easier to prove in case of wrong parts delivery.
  20. Cleaning brings nothing on a faulty MAF, only a replacement can help. The ambient pressure sensor (barometer) should be located inside the DME and is not a common fault but can happen, are you sure about the codes and the diagnostic tool?
  21. Both fans should run at the same time in first place, it's recommended to use a PIWIS or similar diagnostic tool to check the fault codes, it's necessary because 997 cooling fan system is totally different than 996. Engine temp. sensor/A.C pressure sensor send a signal to the DME which give it to the fan control box which operate both fans at the same time. You can check the cooling water level and look for any leaks first, but is not an explanation why one of the fans doesn't work. That's why the codes are needed.
  22. The side rear windows are partial bolted to the car body by a adjustment plate, some earlier 997 have troubles with creaking sounds in that area. An adjustment is needed if it is the case.
  23. Most part of the noises are produced by the left and (or) right rear window adjustment system. Anyway, if you remove the top trim which covers the roof liner left, right and in front, you can pull off the headliner starting on the rear and pull out the steel tension cross wires one by one. Insulate the fastening clips from the holes where they clicks in with insulation tape or similar stuff. Turn each fastening nut of the sunroof UNIT 2 turns loose, spray a little amount of grease gently between the UNIT and the roof reinforcement and re tighten the nuts. Check the roof crossbeams, they will come loose from the roof plate (hollow sound). Obviously, it's rather a dealer job than a DIY.
  24. The boots are in fact dust protectors, the leaking seals are located inside the rack. A rebuild rack can help you out.
  25. Turbo lifespan (engine in good condition, no mods done, etc.) is over 150.000 Km, exceptions can not be excluded, it's still a mechanical part. Remove the oil lines and clean them from oil residues.
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