Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

RFM

Moderators
  • Posts

    3,645
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by RFM

  1. The antenna amplifier is located behind the right A-pillar trim.
  2. Stefan, the fuel tank and sender/pump unit sits in the open air, fully shielded from the inside car body. It sounds reasonable, to me, the smell is more noticeable outside than inside the car when completely closed.
  3. It's not a common problem, a visit to the dealer is recommended since the car has still warranty.
  4. Probably one of the hydraulic lifters loose a little pressure after a couple of days standstill (ticking noise), i would not worry me as long the noise is not present by daily use.
  5. There was a transmission electric motor action for the earlier types, due recurrent fault codes on the dash, not for all kinds of noise, as far as i remember.
  6. wvicary, the drains are located on the under edge of the under tray, over the entire length of the car (where the car bottom plate meets the tray = the lowest spots of the car, as usual.)
  7. It's a limited and numbered edition collectors item "sport classic" Fuchs rims, duck tail, only one color available, etc. with a nod to the MY 1973 911 2.7 litre RS®, sold out before delivery over here.
  8. Joost, The replacement engine in your car have the latest up date, IMS, seal, crankcase bolts, bearing and larger retaining bolt + nut. This engines are good so far, they have still to prove their quality on long term but Raby's construction also IMHO.
  9. I would check the poly-V belt, all rollers, alternator, water pump, etc. and the startmotor as well. Therefor, remove with cold engine, the poly-V belt. Start the engine, if the noise is still there, the startmotor could be the problem, if the noise is no longer present, search the problem in the belt and rollers area.
  10. If the engine is replaced off 01.06, you will have the latest update, inclusive reinforced intermediate shaft.
  11. I do not know, but note that RHD cars use specific wipers!
  12. Agree with Tool Pants but only for M96/97 engines and Cayenne, all others have the filter on top of the engine (like fast eddie MY09 C2 DFI)
  13. With the inside panel removed, you have easy access to all components (lock, back side of the outside handle, etc.)
  14. You need the DME, Alarm control box and transponders (Tiptronic to manual and vice versa is not possible) from the donor car to start with. The car should crank with that, if he doesn't, search the problem elsewhere (wiring - connectors etc.) A diagnostic tool should help *** well.
  15. 1) The belt cover is sufficient. 2) Check for excessive play and water leak traces, if OK the pump can, theoretical, remain. On the other hand, i have seen a lot of pumps destroyed after a 90 K service with belt change, cause the better grip and higher tension of the new belt. It's your choice.
  16. Probably is one of the four round fastening spacers, which are located and mounted between the rails/door frame and the door itself, broken or missing. In this case, when tighten the four bolts (rails/door frame to door), you pull open the rails too much and the glass will comes out of the rails. Hope it helps.
  17. Only details are changed, no major differences. Replace the pressure plate, disc and bearing at the same time.
  18. I pulled over and took off my intake going to the throttle body. I heard a high pitch noise coming from the throttle body; like the motor was trying to adjust the positioning. How can you check the correct motor management/throttle operation with the intake hose, inclusive MAF, disconnected from the throttle body on a running engine, it's normal, under this circumstances, that the engine shows a strange behavior. You need a diagnostic tool for troubleshooting, what you doing is messing around IMHO, and that is expensive at the end.
  19. If the problem occurs on both handles, inside and outside, the lock itself could be the cause.
  20. You can change the switch to be sure (caution, different part # than the brake switch even though they looks the same). I would check if there is power available on the pin 50 of the start motor (thin wire) when you crank the engine, there is some wiring and relays between the pedal switch and the start motor present which may be defective. If you can not find anything, a PIWIS tester can help you out.
  21. The alignment procedure is as follow: Full fuel tank - NOBODY in the car - correct tyre pressure. Only a GOOD PERFORMED 4 wheel alignment with in the straight possition locked steering wheel, and pressed brake pedal (both performed by special alignment tools), handbrake on, can give fully satisfaction. If the car shows shortcomings after the alignment done as described, then search the error elsewhere (tyres, shock absorbers, etc.)
  22. DME-Cruise control-TC, that kind of stuff.
  23. Try it this way: ignition on - one push on the button - the switch control light is on and the spoiler go's up automatically. Do the same thing as previous, except you have to hold the button pressed (spoiler downwards is not automatic in manual mode) If no result, use a PIWIS to do the acts (PIWIS replaces the button), if the system works fine now, the switch/wiring (everything between switch and control box) can be suspected. You can also, at the same time, using the PIWIS for fault codes check/clear and guided troubleshooting.
  24. Hope you get well paid for the service :lol:
  25. The headlight design is changed from one lens on 997/1 to two lenses on 997/2 and further subdivided in a fixed and a dynamic cornering (option) version, here directly from the book: Bi-Xenon headlights offer advantages BOTH for DIPPED beam and HIGH beam headlights. Hope it helps.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.