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RFM

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Everything posted by RFM

  1. Remember that, just like the brakes, the shock absorbers also warming up by the friction on the in and out movements. The fact that the wheel sensors are replaced remind me of weak shock absorbers, the sensors go thereto defect.
  2. Have you filled the circuit with a vacuum device? Without a tool it is very difficult to get all air pockets out of the circuit. New water pump faillures are rare but not impossible, the rotor sometimes does sit loose on the shaft, but i'm guessing on air pockets.
  3. Hopefully you have disconnected the battery, fumble on yellow connectors can end badly with power on. This is just a warning to prevent your health.
  4. Check whether the alternator freewheel pulley is not jammed, this causes excessive vibration in the poly V belt which can break off mounting bolts.
  5. The plastic tubes have to be replaced if damaged, they are vacuum tubes which, inter alia, controlled the resonance flap in the plenum and other vacuum operated parts. Leave it as it is not an option.
  6. Do a test drive with the OEM exhaust in order to know the difference in value, 200 cell cats can occasionally show strange problems when they are no longer optimally.
  7. Without the use of a vacuum filling system it shall be a time-consuming and hazardous task, any trapped air bubbles are indeed very difficult to remove without vacuum tool.
  8. When only leaking pistons are replaced calibration is not necessary, but when the entire system has not completely or partialy reached the points of reference (microswitches) a calibration is needed.
  9. The connecting rod between the lock cylinder and the door lock mechanism is not connected properly or defective. You will have to start over, the connecting rod looks like a mini oar, the flat end of the rod falls into a groove of the door lock. Since the remote controle turns itself off after about six days, this is a problem whitch must be solved as soon as possible.
  10. Is true of all sensors, spark plugs and coils, OEM parts turn out the cheapest in money and time. Happy for you that it is resolved.
  11. Multiple components are shared under the VAG group vehicles, so it would be more than likely.
  12. The engine temp. sensor to the control box seems to falter in the vicinity of 40F in this case, the values should be compared with a new one under the same circumstances.
  13. Concerning your last video "Surging idle", the parking brake must be engaged for a proper measurement when the wheels are off the ground, otherwise the transmission and the wheels are a little dragged by the engine, causing a slight difference in RPM at idle due to no torque.
  14. Bank 1 is on the driver's side on 996 LHD cars, also the waterpump side.
  15. Are the waterhoses, on the back of the engine (in the middle of the V) well connected in the right order? There are 3 or 4 of them and are not connected in the logical way.
  16. It is the vehicle which is programmed to the key fob, not the key fob to the vehicle.
  17. Before going to be done useless work or made costs, check with a diagnostic/programming device the status of the control boxes, probably they sould be returned in "Vehicle Handover" modus. Sometimes they jump back into factory mode.
  18. Remove the wheel and the inner wheel well liner, the pump element is accessible against the A-pillar.
  19. As cited above, make it easy on yourself and use a diagnostic tool for this exercise.
  20. Both claxons, disposed in the forecastle of the vehicle, are connected to the steering wheel (ROW), 1 Low pitch and 1 High pitch.
  21. Yes, you can do it for a short time, just watch the engine temp. Then you already know for sure that it was not/is associated with the peripheral devices of the engine. Reminder, the V-belt can make such a noise also.
  22. Is the noise the same with the V-belt removed?
  23. Technically it is possible to siphon out the expansion tank without draining the entire cooling system, but think about the age of your car, after 10 years of age i would replace the entire amount of coolant.
  24. There is specific locking tool used to adjust the timing? Are the vacuum operated butterfly valves inside the intake manifold, and intake ports not damaged, blocked or clogged? Are the valves cleaned and grinding properly in their seats, valve spring(s) not weak or broken? Compression test done? No air leak at cyl. 5? DTC P0305 should be there for sure, anny other error codes? A diagnostic tool could help a lot as well as an emission test (HC-CO-CO²-O²) at idle and at 3.000 RPM. There are many possibilities, into the engine block itself at a VR6.
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